Sway Bar Links Clunking

[DenaliHD66]

Okay so here's the deal. Left front clunks, right front clunks, and the rears clunk as well. 1.5 years ago I noticed one of my front end links popped off, so I had both replaced with OEM ones. Then I got a Hotchkis sway bar put on, with Moog links for the rear, and the poly bushings put on the front bar. This was all done over this summer, and they have been clunking the last few months. I thought it was ball joints at first, so I replaced all of them, and it didn't change anything. Now that the weather got cold, it clunks even more now, and much more often. Everything is tight. Wtf else can I do? I have 2004 Envoy XL 4.2. I don't know how many other guys have done this suspension mod with the XL's, so maybe there is something with the GMT370 that makes it act differently. I also have Bilstein HD's on all 4's, and Airlift 1000 Kit.

 

[Ghoster]

These trucks have notoriously bad end links. From your description, thats what I would have guessed. However you have been through quite a few parts. Hang out until someone with more suspension knowledge drops by.

 

[DenaliHD66]

Yeah they do, but its just the fact that they shouldn't clunk if tight (they didn't prior to adding the poly bushings). And the fact the rear Moog (greasable) ones are clunking a bit too makes me wonder its not just the links but maybe the architecture of the frame.

 

[tblazerdude]

my moog's only lasted a year with the heavy duty rear addco bar. The extra stiffness may cause the links to go out sooner. I went with suspension maxx and they have been great so far.


Chevy Trailblazer 4X4 Stock Sway Bar Link - Rear (2002-2009) | Chevy Trailblazer Sway Bar Link (2002-2009) | Chevy Sway Bar Link | Chevy | Suspension MAXX | Suspension MAXX

 

[Wooluf1952]

You say everything is tight.

Does that include the shock and panhard bar bolts?

 

[Matt]

If everything else is kosher, I'd go with the SMAXX endlinks and be done with it.

Matt

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Definitely check tightness on all suspension components.

 

[DenaliHD66]

Yeah everything else is tight. Maybe the extra stiffness needs the better links, so I'll just invest in those at some point. They seem to have a better design to keep tension as opposed to regular ball joint links.

 

[Regulator]

Check the mount holes on the body for the rear sway bar links. My holes were elongated and even though the links were tight it would still slide back and forth in the hole.

Good luck, you could always just remove the rear bar. A lot of us have.

 

[DenaliHD66]

Check the mount holes on the body for the rear sway bar links. My holes were elongated and even though the links were tight it would still slide back and forth in the hole.

Good luck, you could always just remove the rear bar. A lot of us have.

Didn't pay $230 or w/e for the Hotchkis sway bar to have it sit in the garage . It makes a heck of a difference, and I don't off road anymore (following a bad high-centered incident that left me calling a tow truck).

Thanks I'll check out the holes, the clunking is much worse up front though, so I'll check them all out.

 

[Bub]

I have a rhythmic clunking at lower speeds, it goes away around 45-50mph i just replaced a wheel bearing i wonder if this is the same thing that i got now is the sway bar links, it doesn't differ which direction i'm turning or going straight.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Sounds more like a tire issue

 

[Bub]

Sounds more like a tire issue

you think so??? the BFG's have about 100miles on them

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Did it occur with previous tires?

 

[Bub]

Did it occur with previous tires?

yeah but it wasn't as bad, its a lot more noticeable now. the old tires had very even wear, and i had an alignment done with the new tires.

 

[2x1968muscle]

Are the Suspension Maxx links still available?
The web site seems to have deleted Trailblazer from the application listings.

Am I missing something?

My links were replaced 2 years ago and I noticed that the RF has started to clunk a little. The back plate that the grease joint screws into is loose and I feel that internal tolerance is not snug any more.

 

[Matt]

Are the Suspension Maxx links still available?
The web site seems to have deleted Trailblazer from the application listings.

Am I missing something?

Yes you did...http://www.suspensionmaxx.com/index.php?option=com_vmfiltering&task=search&vm_cat[]=1073&feat_fl[]=1&feat_1[]=13&feat_fl[]=2&feat_fl[]=3&feat_3[]=25&feat_fl[]=4&feat_4[]=26&vm_mnuf[]=70

 

[2x1968muscle]

Thank You !
I went back and searched...this time I found them. funny it did not come up earlier.

I guess the weak link (pun) is the links on these trucks !!

 

[Matt]

 

[loaded_05]

I know you have checked already, but I purchased my 05 envoy xl with the hotchkis swaybar and font bushings installed. The front bushings were actually too large for my bar 1.34". the difference is so little that I had to throw most of my body weight into the swaybar to feel the play. I switched with some ac delco bushings on rockauto that were for a buick rainier (polyurethane) and it solved the noise.

 

[DenaliHD66]

Oh interesting. Thing is, mine didn't do that for the first 2 months or so when I put the hotchkis bushings in. I know the front sway bar isn't the exact same size for all of the trucks, especially according to year, so I'm not sure which ones I have. Still, it clunks in the rear too, so I think the suspensionmaxx links might just solve all the problems if they keep everything much tighter.

 

[Gevans17]

Changed them all with Moogs. Shortly thereafter, I started hearing a single clunk noise from the left rear when hitting a b ump. Everything seemed tight. Put it on jack stands and started checking around with a pry bar. I found movement (popping) between the frame and the mounting bolt on the end link. The hole in the frame is too big for the diameter of the bolt, allowing movement.

 

[2x1968muscle]

Hole is bigger than the bolt..? That sounds like a new issue with the famous sway bar end link issue. Does it look worn? Or is the replacement joint simply a smaller dia bolt? Other than a sleeve around the bolt I can't think of a decent way to fix that proble.

I recently received my Maxx units in the mail, so as soon as the weather co-operates I will remove the links I have and put these on.
Everyone has raved about them, so now I'm stepping up to what I hope will be the last set I put on the old girl.

 

[v7guy]

I seem to be reading about the holes in the frame getting sloppy more often these days.

Endlinks will wear out, it's just one of those things. With bigger swaybars and more stress on the links you're putting higher forces on the links and mounts and they'll wear more quickly. It's just part of the game.

 

[The_Roadie]

I seem to be reading about the holes in the frame getting sloppy more often these days.

Yep, it's aging platform syndrome. Except I took my end links off for offroading, I'd have the same issue. Someday I'll fabricate some sleeves, drill the frame holes out, and write it all up as an article. Or somebody with the problem could do it now.

 

[Rubberman]

I am also getting the clunking/popping sound up front when hitting a bump and pulling into the driveway. How can you tell if its the endlinks?

 

[The_Roadie]

I am also getting the clunking/popping sound up front when hitting a bump and pulling into the driveway. How can you tell if its the endlinks?

Wiggle them by hand. They may rotate a bit, but you might also be able to tell looseness. Have someone bounce the corner up and down the way you inspect your shocks, while you watch and listen to the end links. Inspect the anti-sway bar mounting bushings carefully. They can also deteriorate and clunk. Remove ONE end link and see if the noise goes away. (This will probably cost you an end link to do the experiment because they often need to be destroyed to remove)

 

[Rubberman]

When i go to advance auto's website and search for end links for the TB, why does it show the normal type end link?

 

[The_Roadie]

When i go to advance auto's website and search for end links for the TB, why does it show the normal type end link?

Because the abnormal kind are on national back order?

Sorry.......what are you asking? Should it show aftermarket ones and all you see are AC Delco OEM style?

 

[Rubberman]

Im saying when i search for the end links for a trailblazer(at autozone and advance auto) it shows these end links

View attachment 17994

 

[The_Roadie]

This is what I see on Autozone right now for a 2004 Envoy.

View attachment 17995

That picture you posted is the typical "generic" picture used a lot by cheap, lazy Ebay and Amazon vendors. A parts store that uses generic pictures should STILL give you the correct part when you go in the door.

Rockauto also has proper and accurate pictures.

 

[Rubberman]

Im not sure if i can get those nuts off. Other than that, it should be an easy job.

 

[2x1968muscle]

Never call a job on these trucks "easy"
You may have just jinxed it !!

The correct term is "the job looks do-able"

 

[The_Roadie]

Liberal application of PB Blaster for a couple of days before you start is a hugely great idea. As are air impact tools, a cut-off wheel tool, and a Dremel, in order of low to high wussiness factor.

 

[Tofer76]

a low cost nut splitter worked for mine set it on and crank it down.

 

[The_Roadie]

a low cost nut splitter worked for mine ...

You rock! In seven years on this forum and on the OS, I don't think I EVER saw that suggestion posted, and it's ELEGANT. How the heck did we all miss that one?

 

[Rubberman]

Never call a job on these trucks "easy"
You may have just jinxed it !!

The correct term is "the job looks do-able"

I did say SHOULD be easy. lol

Hell i can get a set of those end links for $54 after using those Advance Auto codes. not bad.

 

[Slimtv]

I replaced all four end links and swaybar bushings this weekend. I had one OE break so just decided to do them all. Used Moogs and Raybestos bushings.
The locking nuts were a pita. I used an impact then a rotozip cut off tool but thought about picking up a nut splitter.
It took longer than I thought due to the "hidden" nuts and the rusted allen ends of the bolts.

We had a clunk for several years in both the front end and rear and both are now corrected. Not sure if it was the bushings or the links...I think the bushings.

 

[Rubberman]

Well since it was sorta warm outside i decided to check those end links out. The passenger side had a little movement where i could move it enough to make metal on metal sound. BUT the drivers side is bad. TOns of play. So i guess i'll be replacing those asap.

 

[Sparky]

When you replace them crank them down really good, and don't be surprised if you have to crank them down again in a little bit. They like to work loose. Took me a couple times on my front driver side to get it tight enough.