Im worried about getting those nuts off. may pickup up that nut splitter they mentioned above. OR a handful of dremel cutoff wheels.
Sway Bar Links Clunking
- Thread starter DenaliHD66
- Start date
I have found that you can get a needle-nose vise grip clamped on the end-link bolt next to the rubber gasket and get the nuts off pretty easily.
) so if I ever have to chop nuts or bolts off again I have something that will do it much faster 
Mark20 said:
They are locking nuts and exposure to the road salt here in central IL. I could only get them loose so far by hand and had to cut them off...also used a hammer and chisel on one bolt when I did all four links.
Rubberman said:
Wish ours TBs had these. GM out-smarted themselves with the end link design on the TBs.
I took the tire off today to check those end links. I got my 1/2 craftsman ratchet and i was movin the nuts. but can the thread bolt move too? Maybe it was moving it all.
Rubberman said:
Yes, the bolt will Spin. That's why its a PITA. Put an Allen wrench in the end of the bolt to keep it from spinning
I pulled that tire where its the side with the badly worn sway bar link. Its kinda hard to see in this photo but both edges are worn. Would that be the result of the bad link? I had upper balljoints replaced last year.
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View attachment 18427
Attachments
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
Since many of us run without links at all and don't have tire wear...I think you got other issues.
Rubberman said:
Problem here is not the sway bar end links. You have a number of issues that need to be looked at.
-tie rod ends
-alignment
-tire pressures
-ball joints should be checked again as well
Then afterwards, I look for some replacement tires
my tire above had a small leak so it was always under inflated. But i dont think i ever got a front end alignment after i got the upper balljoints replaced. I will post a video of my tie rod in another thread so i dont hi jack this one. The right side tire doesnt have that wear.
BTW, i replaced the left side end link. Getting the bottom nut off was a breeze, the top on the other hand was stubborn and ended up cutting it. One side is on, now to the other.
BTW, i replaced the left side end link. Getting the bottom nut off was a breeze, the top on the other hand was stubborn and ended up cutting it. One side is on, now to the other.
'Nuff said. That was the cause of the wear. Around here many tire stores fix leaks for free to buy your loyalty. Any reason you just didn't get the leak fixed? Putting it off will cost at least two tires now.Rubberman said:
i needed2 tires cause these Kuhmo tires suck. i wish i never purchased them, you live and you learn. thanks for your help everyone.
Well i worked on the right side and those nuts came off pretty easy. Slapped on the new link and tightened the last nut and realized i put it on backwards since the zirks face right into the bracket on the lower control arm. So i had to flip it and all is good. I used the old nuts to double nut it.
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Any word on these new sway bar links that one of the vendors was working on? They are supposedly said to be better than the suspensionmaxx links. Also, what hole in the frame are you guys referring to that is also a possibility for clunking? Not quite sure where it is directed at. Also, how can I tell if my bushings that came with my Hotchkis sway bar are too large for my front sway bar?
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Still haven't diagnosed the cause of my clunking noises, but the sway bars and links are as tight as can be and something is still loose and clunking around. I'm thinking it might be something in the steering rack, or an aluminum crossmember, since thats what the hollow clunk sounds like when I tap on these areas.
On another note, my alignment seems to be off, because my tires are wearing that may indicate some toe-in. I got to thinking that when I got the 4 bilstein hd's, sway bar bushings, and sway bar installed last summer, i did NOT get an alignment. Going to wait until I get new tires to get an alignment, but if it was an alignment issue, whats making the noise?
Any chance its the INNER tie rods or cv half shafts? Outer tie rods seem tight... one was replaced a couple years ago... other is original.
On another note, my alignment seems to be off, because my tires are wearing that may indicate some toe-in. I got to thinking that when I got the 4 bilstein hd's, sway bar bushings, and sway bar installed last summer, i did NOT get an alignment. Going to wait until I get new tires to get an alignment, but if it was an alignment issue, whats making the noise?
Any chance its the INNER tie rods or cv half shafts? Outer tie rods seem tight... one was replaced a couple years ago... other is original.
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Check the CV shaft play where it goes into the side of the disconnect or differential.
Also, when I had a clunky rattle going on I thought my end links were tight, until I wedged a bar between the frame and sway bar and pried a little. Then I could see the end link move.
Also, when I had a clunky rattle going on I thought my end links were tight, until I wedged a bar between the frame and sway bar and pried a little. Then I could see the end link move.
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
CV shaft seemed okay. The driver side one is slinging more grease again, and I never got it corrected :E
But its a suspension type thing, so when I'm turning and the body rocks or sways, it clunks. Sometimes it will do it once if I stand on one running board, and rock the truck back and forth as hard as I can.
Thing with the sway bars, they are tight, but the end links do rotate on their sockets, but it does take a little effort. When you did the prying, what were you trying to move? The front sway bar itself or what?
But its a suspension type thing, so when I'm turning and the body rocks or sways, it clunks. Sometimes it will do it once if I stand on one running board, and rock the truck back and forth as hard as I can.
Thing with the sway bars, they are tight, but the end links do rotate on their sockets, but it does take a little effort. When you did the prying, what were you trying to move? The front sway bar itself or what?
Mine seem to be good after retightening the nuts plus adding the nylon lock nuts. No popping at all. Now I need to get the backs done.
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Ahh it could be moving in the hole where it mounts. Wouldn't larger bolts solve that problem though?
fadyasha
Member
- Dec 21, 2011
- 1,134
The links are such a pain I had to go back and tighten them three times! They were tight but just needed that extra tightening where ur tongue sticks out lol!
The one that kept going loose was the rear bolt on the driver side. Like I said it wasn't loose, just not tight enough!
The one that kept going loose was the rear bolt on the driver side. Like I said it wasn't loose, just not tight enough!
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Alright, I'll bust out the 1/2" ratchet tomorrow and see if I can do any good. I have these 6" riser ramps, was wondering if I drove up one tire at a time, so each side was raised one at a time, it would show a difference in the position of the sway bar, and possibly tighten up even more if I have the suspension flexed a bit.
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Ok so a few certain situations will always trigger the clunking noise.
Tonight, I was backing out of my parking spot, and my passenger rear tire went up over the little speed bump, and I heard the clunk towards the rear, and it didn't take much impact, just a little bit of flex in the suspension and it happened. When I go over a speed bump with both wheels perpendicular on both axles and go over regular, no sound is triggered. If I hit the speed bump with the passenger front tire only while the driver's side remains flat, it will clunk too.
In other words, when there is flex on EITHER axle on one tire at a time, it will clunk. Everything is tight, and now I have a new rattling sound going on, but ugh, getting really frustrated with this truck.
Tonight, I was backing out of my parking spot, and my passenger rear tire went up over the little speed bump, and I heard the clunk towards the rear, and it didn't take much impact, just a little bit of flex in the suspension and it happened. When I go over a speed bump with both wheels perpendicular on both axles and go over regular, no sound is triggered. If I hit the speed bump with the passenger front tire only while the driver's side remains flat, it will clunk too.
In other words, when there is flex on EITHER axle on one tire at a time, it will clunk. Everything is tight, and now I have a new rattling sound going on, but ugh, getting really frustrated with this truck.
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Wooluf1952
Member
DenaliHD66 said:
That really sounds like sway bar end links or mounting bracket grommets. Either worn or loose.
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Does the same thing with the rear axle too. One tire flexes up or down... clunk. But thanks I think I'll have them remove both sway bars and see if that makes the clunk stop. If so then I'll just get better end links.
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Well I had the Moog rear sway bar links replaced since they were under warranty. Apparently they had some play in them. Truck rode stiffer, I could tell, and I didn't hear any clunks, even though the front sway bar links were left untouched, and I heard noises coming from them before also supposedly. So maybe it was just the rears with the Hotchkis sway bar all along.
However, the guys also report that the Hotchkis sway bar might be bumping against the cooling fins on the casing around the driveshaft to the rear differential. There isn't much room there, but I still don't see how it would be hitting... when in stock form its not like they would make it so it was so close to hitting and something slightly larger suddenly would.
But then again, I don't know of anyone else putting this sway bar on their XL/EXT's so there hasn't been much feedback that I'm aware of. Maybe the XL/EXT experiences more overload when you get Bilstein HD's, Airlift 1000 Kit and Hotchkis sway bar package installed. Are those SuspensionMaxx sway bar links more forgiving? Because I thought about just buying those and seeing how they work out. I don't mind giving up some firmness to ensure they actually work and don't cause clunking.
However, the guys also report that the Hotchkis sway bar might be bumping against the cooling fins on the casing around the driveshaft to the rear differential. There isn't much room there, but I still don't see how it would be hitting... when in stock form its not like they would make it so it was so close to hitting and something slightly larger suddenly would.
But then again, I don't know of anyone else putting this sway bar on their XL/EXT's so there hasn't been much feedback that I'm aware of. Maybe the XL/EXT experiences more overload when you get Bilstein HD's, Airlift 1000 Kit and Hotchkis sway bar package installed. Are those SuspensionMaxx sway bar links more forgiving? Because I thought about just buying those and seeing how they work out. I don't mind giving up some firmness to ensure they actually work and don't cause clunking.
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Anyone know if the SuspensionMaxx sway bar links are designed to "give" more than OEM/Moog bar links? Mine are still clunking even though they were all replaced and tightened up so I think that will be my next purchase.
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Trying to get a 370 owner to comment here in regards to getting the same suspension setup as me and see if they had the same problems.
Dad-O-Matic
Member
- Dec 5, 2011
- 228
I just installed a Belltech rear sway bar with new AC/Delco end links and it started clunking soon after. Don't know if its' the sway bar or links at fault, unfortunately it'll be another 3-4 weeks before my collarbone and ribs have healed enough for me to crawl underneath and check it out 
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- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
I am told that the bar clunks against the center differential case (The cooling fins). I can't imagine that the stock one was much further away, though when my truck is jacked up, the bar is pressed against the cooling fins. But it will clunk even when one of my front wheels hits a bump going slow too, and the rear axle is firmly planted and isn't flexing.
