Sway bar end link/bushing help

mntb

Original poster
Member
Mar 18, 2016
123
minnesota
Walked up to my TB EXT today and found a rear sway bar end link hanging down from the sway bar. It is no longer attached to the body.
I might replace fronts too. But like I said in a previous post, I'm on a budget.
I can move the fronts by hardly touching them, time to replace? I'll probably be ordering from rockauto.
Are the MOOG end links the way to go? Or are there better ones?

Should I look at bushings when replacing the end links also (whether it be front or rear)? If so, what bushing are recommended?

What is the difference between rubber, polyurethane (I think that's what they are), and thermoplastic bushings? I have never heard of thermoplastic until I saw moog thermoplastic sway bar bushings from o'reilly.
Will replacing sway bar end links and bushings help body lean? I like a stiff but not harsh ride. But it feels like the body leans when going around turns. Like side to side lean.
I assume the ext/xl's have larger sway bars?
Thanks in advance for the help.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,355
Ottawa, ON
I don't think one brand of end link is really better than another EXCEPT those that are not positively sealed and cheap Chinese junk that I would avoid. IIRC, Moogs are not positively sealed and prone to earlier failure. Check out this post:
http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/do-you-recomment-mevotech-links.3848/#post-76146

I've bought cheap house brand links locally, made by MAS, available at RA. Positively sealed, greasable and has a hex instead of the stupid Allen wrench hole in the end of the stud.

Honestly, I don't really know about which type of bushings are better. I replaced mine (with the blue ones) and after a couple of years, were loose again. Instead of buying new ones again, I took them off, cut a bit of the end off and added a couple of washers between the frame and bushing to make it squeeze onto the bar. Has held up great since the bushing material was pre-compressed.

Yes, the EXT/XL bar is bigger.

Apart from the effect of the broken link, this will not appreciably change body lean or roll.
 

mntb

Original poster
Member
Mar 18, 2016
123
minnesota
Thanks for the reply.

Thanks for the info on the end links.

Could body roll/lean be an strut/spring/shock issue? Maybe one set or all are getting weak? The rear shocks look rusty. Almost rusting through the casing. Springs and struts look close to the same condition. Possibly original?

Using the truck for work 7 days a week probably has been taking its toll.
Eventually parts wear out.
Thanks again for the info.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,355
Ottawa, ON
Sway is really only controlled by the sway bar. My EXT is also not so good and it has newish Bilsteins, especially compared to the Saab, it sucks.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Moog redesigned their links last I checked, and they are sealed better now. Maybe they'll last longer.

Definitely do yourself a favor and whatever you get, make sure it has a hex instead of the allen key hole. Those suck since you have to get them so tight and the allen hole just rounds out, especially if you go to remove them again later you are pretty much forced to cut them off with a sawzall.
 

Chickenhawk

Member
Dec 6, 2011
782
I can speak to the bushings. The stock rubber ones wear out slowly, but are susceptible to oil and grease contamination. If that is all you can afford, they should be installed either ungreased or only with a special rubber-compatible grease. If the bushing does not come with grease, do not grease them.

Urethane bushings are a stiffer nylon-like material. They last a lot longer and rarely wear out. What normally happens is they dry out after a few years and make some bad groaning noises. They MUST be greased when you install them, and probably should be removed every few years and regreased with the same grease. They come with grease, and save what you don't use because you will need it. They come in a variety of colors; often red but can be anything.

Good bushings, but basically a pain in the ass.

This is where the new thermoplastic bushings come in. They are sold under various brand names such as NAPA (premium line), Moog and AC Delco Professional. They are all blue. The big advantage is that they have the life and stiffness of the urethane bushings but have a self-lubricating property. They are installed WITHOUT any grease.

Rubber ones are still fine and will wear slowly. You might not notice how bad they are until you replace them some day. Urethane ones are old-school. They are one of those aftermarket items that seem like an upgrade but in fact - because everything automotive is a compromise of some kind - when they wear out or dry out, they are very noisy. It is impossible to grease them properly without removing them completely ... and who wants to do that every few years.

Go with the thermoplastic. As far as I know, they are only a few dollars more anyway. You will thank me in two years.

As far as greasing bushings, keep in mind this rule of thumb. If they come with grease in the box; use it. If they don't; don't grease them.
 
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