Replacing a bunch of parts

[LilMule]

Bought a 2008 TB with ~130000 miles on it. The manual has the first owner's maintenance notes and Carfax shows all the times that the second owner brought it in to the local dealership for service. While the service history is nice to work with, I've noticed that there are a number of parts that probably should have been replaced by now, just for preventive maintenance. The truck runs fine that I can tell, with no apparent extra engine noise (though I don't know what it sounded like at the factory). The mpg might be a bit low, but I haven't driven enough to tell yet.

As for the things that probably should have been replaced by now, it has the stock alternator, serpentine belt, plugs and ignition coils, shocks, water pump, thermostat, fan idler pulley, and some other things. I'm going to replace a lot of these myself, especially the plugs and coils. My question is when replacing the spark plugs, should I replace all of the ignition coils with them? Do coils go bad slower or faster than plugs? I'm sort of of the mind to just put six new coils and six new plugs into the truck and see if it helps.

Are there any other parts that I should look into changing as a matter of course? Any that I've listed that probably don't need changing?

Thanks for all your help!

 

[Tiggerr]

If the plugs haven't been done the need it. I wouldn't waste the money on coils. They last a long time. I have 161k on mine. Same with the alternator. If it's not broke don't fix it lol. Belt and tensioner/idler pulley are a good idea if original. While you do that check for play in water pump. Mine made it to 159k on the original pump. As for MPG.. I get just shy of 16 average with the 4.2 with 2wd.

 

[Sib]

I would definitely check to make sure all fluids were also changed on time, especially the transfer case fluid which should be changed every 50k miles.

I just replaced the plugs on mine and left the coils. They were still in good shape.

Give it a good look over. Some parts may not need to be replaced yet.

Do you have a scanner? If not get an ELM327 scanner. You can find one on either eBay or Amazon. If you have an android phone you need to get a Bluetooth compatible one and if you have an iPhone you need to get a wifi one.

That will help determine if something's may need to be replaced (i.e. Thermostat, etc). It will also show you any trouble codes should any pop up soon.

Also if you haven't changed brakes yet, look into getting a set of brake motive rotors and pads. A lot of guys here are using those and they work great and are not crazy expensive.

I'm sure other guys will chime in also. Just be careful throwing parts at it if they don't necessarily need to be changed yet.

 

[LilMule]

I would definitely check to make sure all fluids were also changed on time, especially the transfer case fluid which should be changed every 50k miles.

I just replaced the plugs on mine and left the coils. They were still in good shape.

Give it a good look over. Some parts may not need to be replaced yet.

Do you have a scanner? If not get an ELM327 scanner. You can find one on either eBay or Amazon. If you have an android phone you need to get a Bluetooth compatible one and if you have an iPhone you need to get a wifi one.

That will help determine if something's may need to be replaced (i.e. Thermostat, etc). It will also show you any trouble codes should any pop up soon.

Also if you haven't changed brakes yet, look into getting a set of brake motive rotors and pads. A lot of guys here are using those and they work great and are not crazy expensive.

I'm sure other guys will chime in also. Just be careful throwing parts at it if they don't necessarily need to be changed yet.

The "throwing parts at it" part I understand. Like I said, it seems to run fine, but from what I've read online, a lot of the things on my engine might be close to expiring, so I thought I'd get an early jump if that's the case. I'll look into one of those scanners. They're very cheap from what I can tell, does that mean they don't do everything that a more expensive scanner does?

When bought the TB, the dealership did a maintenance inspection and replaced the front brakes (the rear ones were still good apparently). They also put 4 brand new tires on, but they're the stock size and I was hoping to increase the size of the tires and rims for more off-roading utility. Don't look a gift horse in the mouth, right?

 

[Sib]

Those scanners can give you some real time data as well as see and clear trouble codes. I don't have an expensive scanner but I know these elm scanners cannot do the same things as the expensive ones. They are definitely worth the purchase though.

There are a lot of threads on adding larger tires. Also check out the other sight (ortb.com).

 

[littleblazer]

I've only had to do plugs, waterpump, belt and thermostat. I wouldn't worry about the alternator. Belt yes. And keep the old as a spare just in case. Otherwise ball joints may be due soon depending, didn't read that they were replaced.

 

[LilMule]

As far as I know, nothing suspension-wise has changed from stock, so I should probably look into new ball joints.

That's the nice thing about the second owner always going to the dealership for service needs: the dealership forwarded all of their data to carfax, so I can see exactly what they did. I suppose it's possible that in between the owner's trips to the dealer, they also took it to an independent mechanic who didn't report his work, but as many times as this TB has been brought to the dealer, I highly doubt it. (Of course by many times, I just mean that they were normal service visits, not that the TB had to go into service a lot of times)

 

[Mooseman]

Those scanners can give you some real time data as well as see and clear trouble codes. I don't have an expensive scanner but I know these elm scanners cannot do the same things as the expensive ones. They are definitely worth the purchase though.

I call BS. I have an ELM327 with the Car Gauge Pro app and I can do a lot more than even some of the expensive scanners, like read ABS, body, airbag codes, as well as powertrain codes and live data. Pretty damn good for about a total of $25!

 

[Daniel644]

suspension wise, CHECK the ball joints, replace if NEEDED, you most likely NEED sway bar end links.

replace plugs leave coils, pickup a spare if you want to be on the safe side but there is no reason to replace a coil unless it's causing a misfire and throwing a code.

mine has 208k miles and is an 03 (so 5 years older) and it is still rocking the ORIGINAL alternator (I can tell by oxidation levels and the embossed DELPHI on the case) , but now that I have my massive audio system I expect it to die soon as I've killed every OEM alt on any GM vehicle I've owned, even ones with MUCH MUCH lower miles, but they where all 105 amp alts back then.

water pump, idler pulley, belt and thermostat are the only "preventative" aside from the plugs I would do for sure, expect the sway bar endlinks to need it (check to confirm) and while your there (since it's cheap) swap out the sway bar bushings with some new Moog ones if they are applicable for your year, I know there where some changes to the sway bars over the years. the 08's I believe have the less failure prone endlinks on the front (where earlier years have the endlinks with crappy ball joints), but you should still check them.

 

[Robbabob]

Do your service records include the changing of the TC fluid and the differentials? TC every 50K miles and Diffs every 100K miles

Also, where is the engine temp gauge positioned when at operating temp? It should be near vertical; just 1 tick off. If it is below 1 tick, change the thermostat or you'll be changing a Cat before too long.

Good luck, great to see a new face now and again, and you're obviously not afraid to jump in with a repair.

Ccarry on!

 

[Sib]

I call BS. I have an ELM327 with the Car Gauge Pro app and I can do a lot more than even some of the expensive scanners, like read ABS, body, airbag codes, as well as powertrain codes and live data. Pretty damn good for about a total of $25!

I was thinking more along the lines of programming, but was not clear in that.

Either way, I also have an ELM327 wifi and run the OBDFusion app for the iPhone and have enjoyed going through all of the features that it has. I agree though that for around $25 one of the best purchases you can make.

 

[Wooluf1952]

Welcome

In case you haven't heard:
http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/218-welcome-to-gmtnationcom-heres-the-story/

I may have missed it, but the O2 sensor is usually changed about the same time as the plugs.

 

[Trkdrvremt]

Either way, I also have an ELM327 wifi and run the OBDFusion app for the iPhone and have enjoyed going through all of the features that it has. I agree though that for around $25 one of the best purchases you can make.[/quote] I see some of the sellers stating you have be have jailbreak for ios... Is this true?

 

[Sib]

Either way, I also have an ELM327 wifi and run the OBDFusion app for the iPhone and have enjoyed going through all of the features that it has. I agree though that for around $25 one of the best purchases you can make.

I see some of the sellers stating you have be have jailbreak for ios... Is this true?

[/QUOTE]
I think that is only true if you have an iPhone and then get a bluetooth ELM327. I got a wifi one and did not have to break out of jail.

 

[Trkdrvremt]

I think that is only true if you have an iPhone and then get a bluetooth ELM327. I got a wifi one and did not have to break out of jail.

Ok thanks.

 

[LilMule]

Do your service records include the changing of the TC fluid and the differentials? TC every 50K miles and Diffs every 100K miles

Also, where is the engine temp gauge positioned when at operating temp? It should be near vertical; just 1 tick off. If it is below 1 tick, change the thermostat or you'll be changing a Cat before too long.

Good luck, great to see a new face now and again, and you're obviously not afraid to jump in with a repair.

Ccarry on!

As far as I can tell, the differentials were flushed at 90K on 4/20/12, power steering and brake fluid flushed at 80K on 7/15/11, and transmission flushed at 61K on 6/2/10. I'm guessing I should at least flush the tranny and diffs again, and I don't think the transfer case has ever been flushed, but I could be wrong.

The temp gauge is pretty close to vertical, but I might replace the thermostat anyway, as one poster suggested.

Guess I'll leave the alternator alone for now and only replace once it breaks. The O2 sensor someone mentioned is a good idea-didn't think of that.

I actually bought six new coils thinking I'd need to change them all. I guess I've got a lot of spares.

Thanks for the welcome! I've never done the work I'm suggesting, but I'm looking forward to having a more active role in the health of my truck.

 

[LilMule]

I think that is only true if you have an iPhone and then get a bluetooth ELM327. I got a wifi one and did not have to break out of jail.

Is there a specific model to get or one to stay away from? There are A LOT on eBay, but most look like they're really cheaply made. Maybe that's just what they look like?

 

[Sib]

Here is a link that has a ton of info on there about different ELM327 scanners.

http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/12173-code-scanners/

If you have an Android phone get a bluetooth scanner and if you have an iPhone get a wifi one. They can be hit or miss on quality. I just bought a wifi one. Click HERE for the link if you have an iPhone. Otherwise, you can thumb through the thread above with some links from some other guys on the bluetooth one.

 

[LilMule]

Awesome, cheers

 

[LilMule]

In case you haven't heard:
http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/218-welcome-to-gmtnationcom-heres-the-story/

I understand the need to break from the Trailvoy forum, and that's kind of the reason I'm here, the activity that I've found. However, it seems like there's more information over there as to how to do things, would you concur?

 

[littleblazer]

Well. Alot of the issues have been discussed and solved over there already. So when people perform Google searches, that info comes up and solves their problem. No reason to beat a dead horse or something like that. However, for diagnosis of a new issue, one that isn't solved in the archives, which site would be the better option to solve the issue. I know what I think, but it's all relative I suppose.

 

[LilMule]

Well. Alot of the issues have been discussed and solved over there already. So when people perform Google searches, that info comes up and solves their problem. No reason to beat a dead horse or something like that. However, for diagnosis of a new issue, one that isn't solved in the archives, which site would be the better option to solve the issue. I know what I think, but it's all relative I suppose.

Pretty much what I was thinking. This forum does seem to be more open and friendly.

 

[Mounce]

TV is good for the random/rare issues that have already been answered (by the members here, btw) but it's really just a pita dealing with the ads/spam, then on top of that, tons of pictures are missing in threads (especially how-to threads) which make quite a few threads worthless.

Also, I believe member-count and activity (which is falsely inflated over there anyways due to some tricks by the owner) along with total number of posts contribute to which site comes up first in a google search. This site is in the midst of developing to the ranks of what that site used to be so as time goes on, this site will be creeping to the top of the google searches where we belong.

 

[Mooseman]

I was thinking more along the lines of programming, but was not clear in that.

Either way, I also have an ELM327 wifi and run the OBDFusion app for the iPhone and have enjoyed going through all of the features that it has. I agree though that for around $25 one of the best purchases you can make.

For sure it's not a Tech 2. You can't do a CASE relearn or anything like that but a good investment whether you do your own repairs or not.

 

[Bluto4x]

Here's my thought: on a vehicle with higher mileage, don't flush your fluids. If you want change and run them for a few hundred miles then change again, but a true flush disturbs too much for my taste. I would say just plugs (check and see wear), check your coolant for color and lubricity, check the belt, change the diff and TC fluids, fuel system cleaners and go have some fun.

 

[LilMule]

Here's my thought: on a vehicle with higher mileage, don't flush your fluids. If you want change and run them for a few hundred miles then change again, but a true flush disturbs too much for my taste. I would say just plugs (check and see wear), check your coolant for color and lubricity, check the belt, change the diff and TC fluids, fuel system cleaners and go have some fun.

I guess I'm a little confused. How is a flush different from changing the fluids? Does "changing" the fluids just involve emptying the reservoir, while flushing involves extra tubing?

 

[Bluto4x]

Fluid change you just drain and fill the fluids but in a typical flush, a cleaning solution is sprayed in to loosen excess "schmoonge" and flushed with clean fluid before filling. Most tranny shops have a special flushing machine for the process, but with that high mileage anything that is filling the nooks and crannies on the seals are wiped away as well and can lead to leaking seals. That's why most people recommend not getting an engine (oil) or tranny flush. Filling with a clean fluid is not a true "flush" but is the better way to clean your parts before adding new fluid.

 

[LilMule]

Fluid change you just drain and fill the fluids but in a typical flush, a cleaning solution is sprayed in to loosen excess "schmoonge" and flushed with clean fluid before filling. Most tranny shops have a special flushing machine for the process, but with that high mileage anything that is filling the nooks and crannies on the seals are wiped away as well and can lead to leaking seals. That's why most people recommend not getting an engine (oil) or tranny flush. Filling with a clean fluid is not a true "flush" but is the better way to clean your parts before adding new fluid.

Good info. Is that for all fluids or just engine oil and tranny? Should I flush some but not others?

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Flushing will break up the junk and allow it to cause damage sometimes as well if it is not all removed.

 

[LilMule]

Flushing will break up the junk and allow it to cause damage sometimes as well if it is not all removed.

I would assume getting rid of the junk is a good thing, but I understand the reasoning. Change/fills only, no flushing.

Do shops do that, or will they only flush? Will I have to do it myself?

 

[Mooseman]

Chemical flushed can be bad but I don't know of any for transmissions. In fact, you can do your own using this tutorial from the OS:

http://forums.trailvoy.com/articles.php?do=viewarticle&artid=88

And no, this type of flush will not dislodge anything. It uses the normal flow of fluid to replace all of it.

 

[Tiggerr]

Not gonna start a huge debate but I would NEVER flush any transmission the way some oil/lube, and trans shops do. There is absolutely no need for one thing and more likely to cause problems than doing a normal pan drop filter change. No matter what the mileage is. That friction material floating around that trans that you can't see helps the system and actually prolongs the life of the trans. I've put as many as 240k on a trans and never flushed it once. Just normal oil change filter change every 50k.

 

[Bluto4x]

Another thought I just had: check your tranny lines and replace if you have any corrosion. Found that one out the hard way. Luckily it was under a warranty.

 

[littleblazer]

I had jiffy lube flush my transmission once. Not a fan but I was working and the fluid was nasty. They basically pumped it in reverse and then filled with fluid. That being said that was 25k miles ago and I haven't seen anything bad become of it. Most shops ask if you want a drain and fill or a flush. Generally the flush is more and a drain and fill is all you should really need.

 

[Bluto4x]

I had jiffy lube flush my transmission once. Not a fan but I was working and the fluid was nasty. They basically pumped it in reverse and then filled with fluid. That being said that was 25k miles ago and I haven't seen anything bad become of it. Most shops ask if you want a drain and fill or a flush. Generally the flush is more and a drain and fill is all you should really need.

God bless you for trusting the "Lube".

 

[Mooseman]

Not gonna start a huge debate but I would NEVER flush any transmission the way some oil/lube, and trans shops do. There is absolutely no need for one thing and more likely to cause problems than doing a normal pan drop filter change. No matter what the mileage is. That friction material floating around that trans that you can't see helps the system and actually prolongs the life of the trans. I've put as many as 240k on a trans and never flushed it once. Just normal oil change filter change every 50k.

Agree 100% on avoiding flushes in shops. If I had a choice, I would just go with the pan drop.If you do regular oil changes like that, then flushes aren't needed.

I have never heard of the benefits of having solids and friction material in the fluid. Any info on that?

 

[Tiggerr]

Agree 100% on avoiding flushes in shops. If I had a choice, I would just go with the pan drop.If you do regular oil changes like that, then flushes aren't needed.

I have never heard of the benefits of having solids and friction material in the fluid. Any info on that?

I was told this by a family friend who at the time was a long time trans guy. That the friction material that's in the fluid from normal wear actually helps the disks, bands, whatever else is in there... lol I'm not a trans guy... Basically the material in the fluid works with the friction parts to create more friction and helps prevent slippage, helps engagement etc...can't say for sure... Sounds reasonable. I've followed that method for many years and it seems to work.

 

[Blckshdw]

I'm not a trans guy either, but I would assume having solids and friction material floating around would cause unwanted wear on everything as the fluid circulated. That would lead to the friction surfaces getting eroded, becoming more smooth, and causing slippage? Besides, the filter should grab all that stuff right?

 

[Tiggerr]

I'm not a trans guy either, but I would assume having solids and friction material floating around would cause unwanted wear on everything as the fluid circulated. That would lead to the friction surfaces getting eroded, becoming more smooth, and causing slippage? Besides, the filter should grab all that stuff right?

I think the material he referred to was smaller than what a filter can get. Impression I always had anyway. More like micro particles. That's the way I think of it anyways. Idk.. I'm no chemist or trans expert. I do know trans fluid is nothing like a regular oil. It does have lubrication properties, but it's actually more of a hydraulic fluid. A lot of vehicles actually use trans fluid for ps fluid...I know he had said just doing 5qt pan drops and changing filters was the best maintenance for the trans. As opposed to pumping all 12-14 quarts of fluid out and replacing all of it. Works for me. My $.02 worth anyway

 

[Bluto4x]

Don't forget that tranny fluid also have cleaning additives to help prevent gunk buildup. That's also why you don't need to do a change but every 100k. Also know a guy that uses it as a fuel system cleaner because it acts as a cleaner and lubricant. Questioned him about it and said he's been doing it with his new Caddys for years. I just stick to the Lucas and Seafoam though. [emoji1]