Rear main seal comes to mind...
trans lines...trans mount obviously.....
Heater hoses might be easier with it out...remove the SAIS if your so inclined...
Rear main seal is a must. Sadly enough mine is leaking again, after it was replaced a few months ago (my bud was a little too hard on mounting the seal)............. It's a minimal leak, so i'm pretty much saying eff it unless I have the trans out again in the future.
Check your differential yoke for too much play, also check out your slip yoke too.
The slip yoke is the part of the driveshaft that slides & mates into your transmission. The diff. yoke is what the rear part of your driveshaft mates to on the rear axle. Its what those bands gets bolted to that secure it.Trans lines are relatively fresh, so I'm good there.
Trans mount is a good tip.
What is the SAIS?
Heater Hoses maybe
Thx
I'm pulling the transmission and bringing it to a rebuilder. I'll put rear main seal on the list of questions.
I have to look up the yokes, I don't know what those are yet.
Thanks for the tip
I'd drill them out and use nuts and bolts.
I used the nut and bolt method on my old car when they sheared off.
The electrical connector is slightly oval shaped, you have to squeeze both sides of the oval to get it to unlatch. The sides you have to squeeze have flats that make them a bit easier to find.
Thanks for your input.Couple of things...
Before taking the trans out, you could have swapped the shift solenoids to see if the shift issue moved to the 1-2. But no use crying over spilled milk...lol.
Technically, you want to unbolt the TC from the flywheel and remove it with the transmission. When it goes back in the truck, you want the TC seated in the case (it 'locks' in by spinning it one rotation, and then a second one seats it properly.) The strap comes in handy for that.
$600 is actually not a bad price for a rebuild, as long as you get all-new internals (clutches / steels, 2nd / intermediate band, etc.) And if you get some kind of warranty with that, I think that would sway me toward having it done, vs. me doing it personally.
Good luck, with whatever choice you end up with.
So that's where all the oil was going!Rear main seal comes to mind...
Ok, cool. So, nothing to worry about? What would I do to fix it if I were so inclined? Rebuild the diff? I don't have the locking diff.That could just be the slack from the wear in the ring and pinion gears.
Then I wondered if it had anything to do with the 4Hi / 4Lo selector but then I thought that selector just worked the transfer case, but maybe not.
As far as the inner workings of the tranny is concerned, it's just magic voodoo to me
A calibrated bullshit meter is often the best tool in the garage.I had another quote for $600 but something about those guys was shady. I'm in sales and I know BS when I hear it. And that didn't include the torque converter. And I would have had to bring it there ... except the Trailblazer is the vehicle I would want to use to transport it. I don't want to get the wife's car all messy, or my daily driver.
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to start with a small hand torch, but I will give that a shot. I'm not worried about the wire at the moment, since those are both coming out, so it just occurred to me I can clip it since they are coming out.You shouldn't have to pull the manifold but with that many miles, it would need good heat from an oxy/acetylene torch. Same on the pipe for the post cat.
I've also found that 7/8 sockets and wrenches are a tad big on the sensor. 21mm 6 point socket fits perfect. I modded an impact socket with a slit for the wire, works perfectly.
Heat the surround area, not the sensor itself. You want to expand the surrounding metal away from the sensor threads.
I don't think it's necessary to pull the heat shield. I didn't with oxy/acetylene torches but it did get burned a bit.
Good to knowMine was partially blocked and it gave no codes. Apart from a boroscope, like @MRRSM said, a backpressure test will confirm it.