No crank, no start,tried everything

[knuckled1]

Need Help!!!
I'm new to the forum, but a long time GM die-hard. Recently my 03 TB (ltz, 4.2, 4×4), turned into a nightmare. I stopped and filled the tank with 89, and within a couple miles it began to act like it had water in the gas, or was starving for fuel. It finally stalled, once started, everytime I gave it gas it would cut out and stall again. Towed home. New fuel filter, new fuel pump. Repaired the lines that were damaged with a high pressure union on the return, and a brass barb connector to join the main fuel line to the front of vehicle. (Would this Autozone technique cause a change in flow or fuel pressure?)
While waiting for fuel pump to arrive, I changed plugs to 41-103's, New coil boots and gaskets, cleaned the throttle body, careful not to get any cleaner inside plug or electrical component, changed air filter, idler assembly, both pulleys, and new serpentine belt. As well as some other little mods and fixes. I also found that the VVT connector had a gray in the wires and looked to be bare wire touching bare wire. So I junkyard dogged myself a nice length and rewired it with crimp connectors, which I hope will not interfere with electrical flow, or cause a disruption in flow? And plugged it back in.
I put half a tank or so of gas in the truck, hooked up the negative battery cable, turned it over, and nothing. No crank, no start. I did not have this problem before. I have since replaced the battery with a new one, replaced ignition switch, starter relay, fuel pump relay, and jumped the terminals in starter relay slot, confirming that starter and solenoid work. I pulled fuel line off at throttle body to check for fuel and there was none. I have all power, fuel pump energizes, no CEL, no funny noises, everything works like it should, except it won't start now.
A friend said there were a couple possibilities, it could be crankshaft position sensor, neutral safety switch, security bypass module, PCM itself, or it could need to go thru a re-learn phase. To leave key on, battery hooked to booster pack for half the day. I never heard such a thing. Is this true. Does anyone have any idea where I should start. I can't keep just buying parts. I'm not a certified mechanic, I know a little about diagnostics, don't have any fancy computer diagnostic test equipment. Code scanner. Test light. Multi meter. Fuel pressure gauge. About it. Please help. Any input is welcome and appreciated.

 

[budwich]

spray some starting fluid into the intake and see if it runs / starts and go from there.
IF you say the fuel pump is "energized" (what does that actually mean), and you have no fuel pressure, you have a fueling problem. That's where your attention needs to be.

 

[christo829]

If you hear the fuel pump doing its brief priming cycle when you turn the key,
you should see fuel pressure, so put the fuel pressure gauge on and verify that.
You mentioned having damaged lines. Was that just for rust/corrosion, or did something else happen to the fuel lines? The stalling you mentioned sounds a bit like a starvation condition. Had a Lumina with a failing fuel pump. It would start fine, but after driving it a bit, the pump would weaken, and stall when giving it gas to accelerate. I know you said you replaced the fuel pump, but make sure it's delivering the pressure you need.

You might also want to go back and replace your crimped connectors with soldered connections. Crimps can appear solid, but still put resistance in to a circuit, which can affect the lower voltage data signals more significantly than the 12V power.

Realistically, you should at least be able to crank it and verify spark, then see if budwich's starter fluid works. If it's not cranking, it's always possible to have gotten a bad part off the shelf, or misaligned the ignition switch, so double check what you've already done.

Hopefully we can start helping you narrow down the issue, get some more data, and get you rolling again.

Cheers-

Chris

 

[Mooseman]

Welcome to the Nation!

Thanks for a well detailed post. Helps us to help you.

Looks like you did the right things trying to fix this but may have thrown too many parts at it indiscriminately.Let's break it down a bit.

No crank, no start.

Has this part of the issue been resolved? Couldn't tell from your post.

I pulled fuel line off at throttle body to check for fuel and there was none.

This part has me confused. Are you talking about the line that goes into the throttle body? That is a vacuum line. This engine is a direct injection system with the injectors under the intake manifold and into the head. Check for fuel pressure at the port next to the the filter.

I have all power, fuel pump energizes, no CEL, no funny noises, everything works like it should, except it won't start now.

As asked above, does it crank?

A friend said there were a couple possibilities, it could be crankshaft position sensor, neutral safety switch, security bypass module, PCM itself, or it could need to go thru a re-learn phase. To leave key on, battery hooked to booster pack for half the day.

Neutral safety switch could prevent it from cranking. Is the security light flashing? I doubt it's the PCM. It's a very low failure part and it is activating the fuel pump. Security relearn takes only 30 minutes and only required if the PCM, BCM or VAT module is replaced.

 

[knuckled1]

Thank you all for your responses.
Let me start from the beginning and respond to budwich, by energized I meant I can hear it working, cycling thru. I thought that was terminology for fuel system when it has built pressure. My fuel pressure test gauge came in the mail last night, so I won't have to keep renting one. I will check fuel pressure tonight.
The damage to the lines occurred while removing the original fuel filter, which was rusted and I could not get them off without damaging the lines, which I cut to replace the connectors that go to die filter. I repaired them with a high pressure union on the 3/8" line (return), and brass barb connector to join the bigger rubber over plastic line(supply)with high pressure clamps. No leaks, I was just concerned with restrictions in flow due to the barbs slightly smaller diameter. Make sense?
I have solder and solder gun, but Im not sure how to properly repair the wires using this method, that's why I used crimps. I'd like to fix this correctly as well. You also said realistically I should be able to crank it and check for spark. Is that possible in a no crank/no start scenario? As for bad parts off the shelf, I have power to fuel pump it does it's cycle, I will have to confirm it's worth by pressure testing it tonight. I'm not sure how to test an ignition switch, possibly AutoZone does this? As for misaligned, I believe it would be noticeable, and battery light would stay illuminated. I triple checked it's position/alignment and feel confident that it's installed correctly.
Mooseman- yes still have no crank/ no start condition. Yes, the line that goes directly into throttle body, that looks like a fuel line. That is actually a vacuum line? That would explain why there's no fuel there! I do not recall if the security light was flashing or constant, i will monitor it and report back. PCM doesn't need relearn after disconnecting PCM harness to clean connections? Or after battery disconnect for over a week?
Finally, I wonder if neutral safety switch could have been damaged during or after towing? I have a friend coming this evening to hook his scanner/computer/diagnostic tool to it, to see if he can help narrow this down. Thank you to everyone who found time to help out. Great site. By the way, is this the same Mooseman from the Riviera forum I used to frequent? Assume it is, he was pretty knowledgeable there too.

 

[Mooseman]

No Riviera for me bit I think I'm still pretty knowledgeable

Nothing needs a relearn even if it's been disconnected. Only if replaced or reprogrammed.

Check in the FAQ for no crank conditions. @MAY03LT has a video on that and we have several threads on this.

 

[knuckled1]

I actually subscribe to his YouTube page. Been my only source of info until he mentioned this group. I'll go thru more threads, but I haven't found anything different yet that has worked. Maybe the neutral safety can be tested or bypassed to confirm it works properly? At a loss. So called mechanic that was gonna look at it tonight had a code scanner in his hand and thought he had the world by the balls. Yet I already told him there are no codes, I needed help with diagnostics and what I already have done. He was no help. Said change crank sensor. Controls spark,fuel and ignition. Not sure how much of that is true, or if I should be wasting my time there?

 

[Tiggerr]

Issue #1 no crank... have to solve that before moving on... fuel pump, TB, plugs, coils, etc etc don't factor into that problem... once you get cranking then the rest comes into play...kinda like order of operations in math class lol...
Start checking battery, cables, grounds, relays, starter, ignition switch, neutral safety etc....

 

[Mooseman]

This thread has lots if info.
http://gmtnation.com/forums/posts/541342/

 

[knuckled1]

Issue #1 no crank... have to solve that before moving on... fuel pump, TB, plugs, coils, etc etc don't factor into that problem... once you get cranking then the rest comes into play...kinda like order of operations in math class lol...
Start checking battery, cables, grounds, relays, starter, ignition switch, neutral safety etc....

Thanks for response. I did those tune up parts while waiting for fuel pump to arrive in mail. I hadn't had the no crank/no start until I pulled tank and did tune up.
Can relays be put in backwards or reversed? If the relays were removed and replaced in the same positions they came out of, but got turned around, would that cause any problems?

 

[knuckled1]

This thread has lots if info.
http://gmtnation.com/forums/posts/541342/

I have answer about security question you asked earlier. When I turn key to unlock or accessory, whatever it's called, and turn to run/start position, the security light blinks 4 times then stays constant while key is in either forwnard position. Don't know if that means anything or not?
I haven't tested fuel pressure yet because I wasn't sure, but doesn't car have to run to get accurate readings? Can I get an accurate reading if I hook up to the test port during a no crank/no start?
I changed fuel pressure regulator because I already purchased it when I bought fuel pump, fuel filter and figured it couldn't hurt. I noticed that the regulator, and line it sat on,(fuel rail) I believe, were both full of fuel, but had no pressure when disconnected, like you would expect if you didn't relieve fuel pressure. Should it have built pressure here, or only after actually running?
Im going to try to solder the wire repair I crimped at VVT sensor lead, because I just don't like those type repairs, I guess I'll be learning to solder!
I think I may replace section of main fuel line also, because the barb/high pressure clamps method I used worries me that it will restrict flow or reduce fuel pressure. Is that possible?
I am almost 99 percent positive that I installed the new ignition switch correctly, I watched the 1A Auto video on YouTube and followed his directions step by step. It feels right. When I tried installing it in any other position/adjustment, the battery light would stay illuminated even with key out. So that was definitely wrong. It feels like it's in the correct position and functions properly the way it's installed.
I don't want to take my truck someplace to be looked at because a lot of these guys are hammer mechanics. But I'm getting desperate. I've been without a vehicle for a month.
Im leaning towards neutral safety because it was towed and may have been disturbed or damaged.
Thanks for the leads, support and info. You guys are all great. I will contribute more and post my upgrades, repairs once I get past this dilemma. Until next time.

 

[Mooseman]

When I turn key to unlock or accessory, whatever it's called, and turn to run/start position, the security light blinks 4 times then stays constant while key is in either forwnard position. Don't know if that means anything or not?

This means there is something going on with VTD/VATS, either the PCM and BCM loas their "handshake" or it thinks the ignition was jimmied. I would try a security relearn, as per this post:
huge problem after PCM update / calibration (PCM Security Relearn)

If that fails, then it could be the ignition cylinder lock, which includes the VATS sensor. May need to get scanned using a Tech 2 and if it is that, it may need to be reprogrammed with the new sensor (not sure as I've never done it).

I haven't tested fuel pressure yet because I wasn't sure, but doesn't car have to run to get accurate readings? Can I get an accurate reading if I hook up to the test port during a no crank/no start?

Yes, if the fuel pump is priming, you should get a fuel pressure reading.

I changed fuel pressure regulator because I already purchased it when I bought fuel pump, fuel filter and figured it couldn't hurt. I noticed that the regulator, and line it sat on,(fuel rail) I believe, were both full of fuel, but had no pressure when disconnected, like you would expect if you didn't relieve fuel pressure. Should it have built pressure here, or only after actually running?

There's no way to test fuel pressure here unless you disconnect the main fuel line and you get sprayed by fuel. Use the test port near the fuel filter. If you have pressure here, it will be at the injectors.

Try the relearn first.

 

[knuckled1]

Thank you for all your efforts to help resolve this issue. I will check out article and try relearn before doing anything else. I work a lot of hours and don't get much free time. If this doesn't work, are the solutions you mentioned in your post a dealership only fix, or do I have other options. Not sure who around here I trust to work on it, prefer someone with GM background tho. Thanks again. Will follow up with results.

 

[Mooseman]

If it is an issue with VATS, you need either an independent shop that has a Tech 2 (rare) or a dealer.

Or you could check this thread to see if there is anyone close enough with one:
Calling all Tech 2 and high end scanner owners

 

[knuckled1]

N

If it is an issue with VATS, you need either an independent shop that has a Tech 2 (rare) or a dealer.

Or you could check this thread to see if there is anyone close enough with one:
Calling all Tech 2 and high end scanner owners

Figures. I was reading a little about security bypass module I think it was. If all else fails, do these things work?

As a last resort I meant.

Mod edit: Do not post successively. Please use the edit button to add more info to your post. Thanks.

 

[Mooseman]

No, that's for remote starters. The only other way to bypass it would be to get a PCM tune and have the VATS turned off. However, the security light would still flash constantly but that could be taken care of

 

[knuckled1]

Thanks for the info.

 

[knuckled1]

I found a guy locally that was a service tech for GM. He has 2003 TH that's find good, bad frame and is selling for parts.
He claims if I take PCM and BCM off that truck, install them on mine and do a relearn, it will run. Does this sound correct to anyone?

 

[budwich]

you are likely to continue to head down a "rat hole"....
If you look back at your "fix it journey", you have trampled in a lot of places, none yet at the PCM. I would suggest you not go there although it is probably too late especially since it appears that you now have a security issue.

Re-look at your steps.... first you had a "run problem".... assuming nothing was touched in front of this problem ocurring, you headed to the fuel pump.... messing with it and a few other things along the way.... never confirming you can get fuel pressure and / or pump running / electrical components activating / checked.

After this, you get a "no crank issue"... which has little or nothing to do with fueling... so you head to the some new places to try your "work".
Again checking the electrical seems "thin". NOTE: in terms of the forum, "CHECKING" means you use a meter (or other tools) and report the finding that you see from these checks (ie. voltage at this pin was xx, resistance at the contact was YY, etc).... just stating "I checked this and it was OK" is some what less than useful since the internet can't actually see what you did to confirm that you have performed the tests well and the result is actually OK....
remember your statement about the "no fuel at this point" to determine your fuel pump was working... turned out your were looking at the vacuum line.... that is a clue... and its not good.

Now, your latest "issue" appears to be "theft indication"... which you can correct me, but that wasn't there prior to your "work" on the ignition switch... hmmmm!!!!

Now you want to go to the PCM and "play" there.

I am not wanting to rain on your "work" but you need to sit back a bit, follow a few "practices" and carefully provide good / detailed observations to the forum especially around measurements and points tested / results if you hope to get your truck back on the road without replacing every part in the engine compartment and there abouts. Further, if you are not sure, find a camera (borrow one, "steal one") and post a picture of the area to help people see what you are seeing.

Lastly, I strongly suspect your install on the ignition switch isn't quite right. That would be a good area to focus on.

 

[knuckled1]

Thank you for responding. As stated early on, I'm a carpenter not a technician. I'm doing the best I can here. I don't know a lot about using a multimeter to get this information, values, resistance,etc. The security issue has been there all along, since or causing, the no crank, no start.
Apparently my "work" is not on your level, and that's why I've been seeking help here at the forum. I will have to start fresh, but I'm not even sure where to start. I checked my friends ignition positions and mine seems correct, but again I'm not exactly sure if there is video available for install, I followed 1A autos install video to do mine. If I was to start in one place, and start eliminating or diagnosing the problem, what would you recommend, from the information I clarified as a starting point.
How do I learn to use multimeter correctly?
I bought the other truck anyway, because it runs good and has only 124K on motor, and there are many good parts I can keep, to sell or save in case I ever needed them. Body I'll scrap and get some of my money back. I thought it would be good idea to have spare parts from a running vehicle. Frame is bad in truck I just bought.
The guy I bought truck from was a mechanic with GM dealership for 9 years. Or so he says? I explained situation to him about security issue, no crank, no start condition, and his recommendation was to change PCM and BCM, verify ignition switch is aligned properly and then initiate the relearn procedure. He said something about lock mechanism with sensor built in it matches the key, to try changing that. Thats why I asked the forum for information/opinions on that whole nightmare.
I just don't know where to start, or what I'm supposed to do first.
Again I thank everyone for there assistance.

 

[Tiggerr]

Ok let's start over.... your truck was running before you did the fuel pump and ignition switch correct??

As @budwich indicated, that's where things went haywire...

Fuel is not your current issue, neither is spark plugs, belts or anything else...

What brand of ignition switch did you install? Ac Delco? Autozone?

These trucks are very picky when it comes to sensors/switches/electrical in general... they like oem stuff as opposed to aftermarket...

Logic would dictate you didn't do anything to VATS fooling with the fuel pump...has to be that switch....

As far as that so called tech you got the parts truck from he sounds about like a dealership idiot... swap pcm and bcm? Really?

KISS is a good rule

 

[jsheahawk]

Have you tried the relearn procedure yet? It costs you nothing but a little time.

 

[shovenose]

Hmm, why not put your old ignition switch back in, or the one from the donor truck?

 

[Mooseman]

I'm thinking that when you replaced the ignition switch, you disturbed something on the VATS. Was it the switch or the key cylinder you replaced? Did you possibly disturb the two wires plugged on top of the key cylinder? Those wires are basically your anti-tamper wires that would trip VATS if the key cylinder is tampered with (i.e. jimmied with a screwdriver).

 

[knuckled1]

Yes, truck ran beautiful before fuel pump and ignition switch swap.
Truck was towed home. Did fuel pressure test first. Read 10-12lbs twice. Which allowed it to run, but if you tried to give it gas, it would die out. Starving for fuel. I purchased fuel filter and ordered a fuel pump. It's an Airtex E3549M., aI nd new locking ring. I then dropped the tank so I could prep tank for reinstall.
Of course the fuel pump they sent the first time was the wrong one, it was an inch to tall. So I sent that back and just matched up what was already in the vehicle. Airtex E3549M, and ordered it elsewhere.
While waiting for correct fuel pump, I already had plugs, coil boots, coil gaskets and air filter because when my idler assembly began squealing, I bought new idler, pulleys, and serpentine belt, and had credit still, so I added the aforementioned parts thinking, if I'm already in this area, might as well freshen it up. I seen a few videos while doing research online, suggesting throttle body cleaning, and cleaning all electrical connections to sensors and PCM with QR cleaner.
I also changed fuel pressure regulator. While doing this "work" I found that the wire connecting the VVT sensor was frayed and bare just above the connector, about an inch or so in length. I thought it would cause a problem sooner or later so I went to junkyard to get a harness, all were cut at some point, so I took the sensor, connector and a foot of wire, and crimped it in, instead of soldering. I don't know how to properly solder/repair this, so that was my option. That's why I probed it, to see if I had power there. I do. I didn't measure resistsnce, voltage, etc because like I said, I don't really know how to use my multimeter yet.
So I did the throttle body, tune-up, etc., and when correct fuel pump came, I installed it, and put the tank back in. While trying to get the original fuel filter off, the corrosion on the filter caused the plastic seal that goes over o-ring to dislodge them from both fuel line fittings, so I cut the lines, replaced the damaged ends, and I used a high pressure union on the plastic line(return), and a brass barb to repair the rubber over plastic line (fuel). Again, I am concerned that using a brass barb to repair line could impede or restrict flow. Opinions anyone?
After installing the tank, fixing fuel filter lines and installing fuel filter, I put 8-10 gallons of gas, and a can of dry gas. I then hooked up negative battery cable, and thats when I discovered the no crank, no start problem. I pulled the starter relay and crossed 30/87 and starter and solenoid both worked, truck turns over that way. So I replaced starter relay and brand new battery. Had old battery tested at Autozone and it was dead, not holding charge.
Someone suggested replacing the ignition switch, that's what I did, try anything at this point. The ignition switch is a Duralast brand. I watched 1A Auto video on install and triple checked it. I also compared how it worked on my buddy's TB. Still nothing. Same no crank, no start. Fuel pump comes on, and everything seems to function correctly, it just won't communicate the correct info to PCM I'm guessing because of the security issue. I was told that the security blinking 4x and then staying steady during key on/run positions is a VATS issue.
I I tried the relearn procedure thru the link that was provided in one of the threads, either it was incomplete information, or I did it wrong. I tried it thru 5 full cycles.
So to be clear, I didn't have the no crank, no start issue until after I started "working" on it. Fuel pump, tune up, etc.
Hope this clarifies situation so its easier for you to help me. Someone also told me part of relearn process had something to do with door, door lock/key, opening and closing, locking and unlocking, etc. This info was not in thread about relearn.
Thank you all for your help, and patience.

 

[knuckled1]

The ignition switch was changed because I had no crank, no start and was told that was likely problem. I changed ignition after learning it was it could be security issue.

Hmm, why not put your old ignition switch back in, or the one from the donor truck?

I'm going to try that and relearn next chance i get. Just want to make sure I have correct relearn procedure.

I'm thinking that when you replaced the ignition switch, you disturbed something on the VATS. Was it the switch or the key cylinder you replaced? Did you possibly disturb the two wires plugged on top of the key cylinder? Those wires are basically your anti-tamper wires that would trip VATS if the key cylinder is tampered with (i.e. jimmied with a screwdriver).

I changed ignition switch and it's possible I may have disturbed them, but again, I believe you asked me what my security light was doing, and I explained the 4x blink, then steady before I changed ignition switch, I believe. So something else could have set it off maybe? Idk.

[Mod edit: Posts merged. Please do not post successively. Use the edit button to modify or addto your post. Thanks.]

 

[Mooseman]

Thanks for the additional info. I still believe that your VATS is preventing the truck from cranking/starting. And you say it was doing this prior to swapping the ignition switch. Since the security light stays on and the relearn is not helping, one of the following things is happening:
- the ignition key cylinder is defective (or its wiring)
- the BCM is defective (or its wiring)
- the PCM is defective. (or its wiring)

Unfortunately, you need a Tech 2 scanner to properly diagnose this and if any of the above are replaced. Some independent shops have them but are mostly available at a dealer.

 

[knuckled1]

Thanks for the additional info. I still believe that your VATS is preventing the truck from cranking/starting. And you say it was doing this prior to swapping the ignition switch. Since the security light stays on and the relearn is not helping, one of the following things is happening:
- the ignition key cylinder is defective (or its wiring)
- the BCM is defective (or its wiring)
- the PCM is defective. (or its wiring)

Unfortunately, you need a Tech 2 scanner to properly diagnose this and if any of the above are replaced. Some independent shops have them but are mostly available at a dealer.

Thanks Mooseman, I'm in complete agreement at this point. I just don't understand how it could end up in this condition/mode. Wish I knew if it was something I did, or how and what I did, so I don't do it again lol.
I bought the truck for parts anyway, because it has good running motor, newly rebuilt rearend, which I hope is G80 locker, and I noticed it had new axles and hubs in the front. Plus spare headlights/taillights, body panels, anything electrical, leather interior same color as mine. It's a 2003 Chevy Trailblazer LTZ, exactly like mine, except exterior color.
I'm going to take the ignition switch out of my parts truck and try that, if the original doesn't fix It after relearn procedure. Im going to search the relearn procedure, and see what i can find. I read something about 2 different procedures, a 10 minute version and a 30 minute version. Do i need to do the door unlock/lock stuff, or is that for different vehicle platform/model?
Is their a for sale section for parts and/or vehicles on this site?
If this all fails to work, I will be taking the truck to my local dealership, I just need to figure out how to approach that situation, and figure out what Im gonna be asking for, and what I expect from them. I may even ask if it's possible to delete VATS permanently. I will post results as soon as I can.

 

[budwich]

Thanks for the additional info. I still believe that your VATS is preventing the truck from cranking/starting. And you say it was doing this prior to swapping the ignition switch. Since the security light stays on and the relearn is not helping, one of the following things is happening:
- the ignition key cylinder is defective (or its wiring)
- the BCM is defective (or its wiring)
- the PCM is defective. (or its wiring)

Unfortunately, you need a Tech 2 scanner to properly diagnose this and if any of the above are replaced. Some independent shops have them but are mostly available at a dealer.

I don't think that's quite the "read" from the "work history". You should note while waiting for the fuel pump, he decided it was a good time to clean "all connections" to various engine components INCLUDING the PCM. Once finally replacing the fuel pump, he then came across the "no start, no crank". However, not sure that the "observation" of the "anti-theft" sequence can be "time lined" as I suspect the OP may not be familiar with it.

Anyways, I think that at this point, significant areas of the truck have been "disturbed" especially associated with critical electrical elements and it might be wise to have a "paid tech" look at it. But heck, I am heading down to my woodworking shop to work on some items, cause working with wood is far more fun than working on darn old vehicles....

 

[budwich]

Phew, still got my fingers...
Please tell me you had the battery disconnected while you were spraying all those "nice" connectors with liquids. hmmm???

 

[knuckled1]

Phew, still got my fingers...
Please tell me you had the battery disconnected while you were spraying all those "nice" connectors with liquids. hmmm???

Yes, battery was disconnected. I disconnect it anytime I fix anything electrical related, or anything I being unplugged or removed.

Yes, battery was disconnected. I disconnect it anytime I fix anything electrical related, or anything I being unplugged or removed.

When i take truck to dealer, what services am I supposed to ask for? Will they do the VATS delete there? After they get it running of course.

[Mod edit: Posts merged again]

 

[mrwitty_1]

• DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

SECURITY INDICATOR
The instrument panel cluster (IPC) illuminates the SECURITY indicator as determined by the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) system. The IPC receives a message via the serial data circuit from the theft deterrent control module requesting illumination. The VTD system requests the IPC to illuminate the indicator only when the ignition is ON. The VTD system uses the indicator as a malfunction indicator. For vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) information, refer to Vehicle Theft Deterrent (VTD) Description and Operation.

The SECURITY indicator on the instrument cluster is controlled by both the VTD system and the CTD system. The SECURITY indicator is an LED on the instrument cluster which illuminates the word SECURITY. The SECURITY indicator is controlled by the body control module grounding the security indicator control circuit.

• The VTD system commands the instrument cluster to control the indicator only when the ignition switch is ON. The VTD system uses the indicator as a malfunction indicator.
• The CTD system commands the instrument cluster to control the indicator only when the ignition switch is OFF. The CTD system uses the indicator to identify system status.

SECURITY INDICATOR OPERATION
The theft deterrent control module can command the instrument cluster to illuminate the SECURITY indicator only when the ignition key is in the ON position. If the PCM loses communication with the theft deterrent control module, the instrument cluster will also detect the loss of communication and will illuminate the SECURITY indicator. The SECURITY indicator can indicate both malfunctions, Indicator on steady and tamper, Indicator flashing. A flashing indicator indicates unauthorized operation. Under the following conditions the SECURITY indicator may be commanded to illuminate.

SECURITY Indicator Illuminates when Engine is Running
If the theft deterrent control module is unable to measure the ignition key transponder value or the PCM loses communication with the theft deterrent control module while the engine is running, the indicator will be illuminated.

SECURITY Indicator Illuminated and Engine Does Not Start
If the theft deterrent control module was unable to measure the ignition key transponder value or the PCM has detected a problem with the theft deterrent system. The VTD system is in Learn Mode. Refer to Programming Theft Deterrent System Components.

SECURITY Indicator Flashes and Engine Does Not Start
The theft deterrent control module has measured an incorrect transponder value, the calculation to the challenge is incorrect or the PCM has lost communication with the theft deterrent control module, The VTD system considers this a tamper condition. The VTD indicator will flash.

 

[Mooseman]

their

Yes there is:
Community Marketplace

If this all fails to work, I will be taking the truck to my local dealership, I just need to figure out how to approach that situation, and figure out what Im gonna be asking for, and what I expect from them. I may even ask if it's possible to delete VATS permanently.

That is your best option at this point. Just tell them that it refuses to crank and the security light is on. You can mention the other work. Ask them for a diagnosis only first. And no, they can't and won't disable VATS. You could do it via a PCM tune from a tuner other than the dealer.

 

[knuckled1]

Update! Got it started finally. Running rough, and now has SES/CEL light on. Have to scan it, check codes, and fix the crimped VVT wire, by soldering it, or changing entire engine harness from parts truck. Still concerned about the main fuel line repair restricting flow. Gonna change entire fuel line from parts truck. Hopefully its nothing serious, and just needs to run for awhile for sensors and PCM to relearn there functions or values to run at its optimal performance. Idk. Going to do a fuel pressure test when I scan for codes.
Next issue is, it's in neutral/tow mode and when I put it in gear it wouldn't move, and when I put it back in park, I makes a grinding, winding down sound. Only into park tho. Hope it's an adjustment issue, or just needs to be put back into 2W/4W.
To be clear, the relearn procedure I used came from the GM forum. It says to set vehicles parking brake to disable daytime running lights, and that you can not open windows, doors, locks during relearn. Either roll down window and reach thru to operate key, or stay I vehicle throughout procedure. That's why it didn't take on my first or second attempts.
Thank you to everyone that has helped me thus far. I will definitely be posting my results from code scan, and looking for more answers. Figures, the parts truck I bought has everything but the transmission. Still got a great running motor, maybe I can wheel and deal if I end up me a transmission.
I will post relearn procedure from GM forum, it seems to work better the way they instructed me to not open doors, windows, etc.

 

[knuckled1]

• Quote:
  On some vehicles (Bonneville, Regal, Impala SS, Monte Carlo SS, and 2004+ Grand Prix) it will be necessary to perform this Security Relearn Procedure before the car can be started. No tools are required to complete this procedure and it can be accomplished 30 to 45 minutes after the PCM is initially installed. You must complete the procedure without opening any of the vehicle doors or trunk. It'* best to open the drivers window and reach inside the vehicle to complete the learn procedure.
  
  For Bonneville, Regal, Impala, and Monte Carlo vehicles 1997-2004 and Cobalt, ION 2004-2006:
  
  
  Set the parking brake to disable the daytime running lights system to avoid draining the vehicles battery.
  Try to start the vehicle by turning the key to the START position (using a Master Pass-Key key, not a Valet key). Allow the key to fall back into the ON position. DO NOT TURN THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION.
  Observe the SECURITY telltale on the dashboard or driver information center. After approximately ten minutes it should turn off for the first time.
  Turn OFF the ignition and wait for ten seconds.
  Try to start the vehicle by turning the key to the START position (using a Master Pass-Key key, not a Valet key). Allow the key to fall back into the ON position. DO NOT TURN THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION.
  Observe the SECURITY telltale on the dashboard or driver information center. After approximately ten minutes it should turn off for the first time.
  Turn OFF the ignition and wait for ten seconds.
  Try to start the vehicle by turning the key to the START position (using a Master Pass-Key key, not a Valet key). Allow the key to fall back into the ON position. DO NOT TURN THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION.
  Observe the SECURITY telltale on the dashboard or driver information center. After approximately ten minutes it should turn off for the first time.
  Turn OFF the ignition and wait for ten seconds.
  Start the vehicle.

 

[jsheahawk]

Update! Got it started finally. Running rough, and now has SES/CEL light on. Have to scan it, check codes, and fix the crimped VVT wire, by soldering it, or changing entire engine harness from parts truck. Still concerned about the main fuel line repair restricting flow. Gonna change entire fuel line from parts truck. Hopefully its nothing serious, and just needs to run for awhile for sensors and PCM to relearn there functions or values to run at its optimal performance. Idk. Going to do a fuel pressure test when I scan for codes.
Next issue is, it's in neutral/tow mode and when I put it in gear it wouldn't move, and when I put it back in park, I makes a grinding, winding down sound. Only into park tho. Hope it's an adjustment issue, or just needs to be put back into 2W/4W.
To be clear, the relearn procedure I used came from the GM forum. It says to set vehicles parking brake to disable daytime running lights, and that you can not open windows, doors, locks during relearn. Either roll down window and reach thru to operate key, or stay I vehicle throughout procedure. That's why it didn't take on my first or second attempts.
Thank you to everyone that has helped me thus far. I will definitely be posting my results from code scan, and looking for more answers. Figures, the parts truck I bought has everything but the transmission. Still got a great running motor, maybe I can wheel and deal if I end up me a transmission.
I will post relearn procedure from GM forum, it seems to work better the way they instructed me to not open doors, windows, etc.

So it just needed a security relearn?

How to make a Western Union splice:

 

[Mooseman]

I just re-read my relearn procedure I posted and it said to leave it in the off position for no less than 30 seconds. I have corrected it to 10 seconds. That was probably why it didn't work.

The parking brake thing is to stop the DRL fro killing the battery. Probably the same regarding the windows or to not change the voltage.

Definitely the codes will help. I wouldn't be surprised if it is the wiring. If you feel like replacing the whole harness, go ahead, but just repairing the one connector with a good solid solder joint will be much easier (and learn a new skill ). And you should use shrink tubing. This video is very well detailed and also shows how to use shrink tuning.

 

[knuckled1]

Plugged in my obd2 found a P0300. Random misfire. What is this all about?
Does the PCM or any of the sensors need time to recalibrate, and if so could that cause the rough running condition?
Suggestions, comments, cause of code, and solutions to random misfire, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you I advance.

 

[Tiggerr]

I'd check all your coils make sure they're all plugged in good.....

I don't remember from your earlier posts but did you remove the throttle body and clean it? it's the back side of it that gets gummed up...

Defiantly redo the connections you used butt connectors on and solder them...

I'd reset the PCM while doing all that and see what you get then...

 

[jsheahawk]

I just re-read my relearn procedure I posted and it said to leave it in the off position for no less than 30 seconds. I have corrected it to 10 seconds. That was probably why it didn't work.

The parking brake thing is to stop the DRL fro killing the battery. Probably the same regarding the windows or to not change the voltage.

Definitely the codes will help. I wouldn't be surprised if it is the wiring. If you feel like replacing the whole harness, go ahead, but just repairing the one connector with a good solid solder joint will be much easier (and learn a new skill ). And you should use shrink tubing. This video is very well detailed and also shows how to use shrink tuning.

Chris Fix to the rescue. That video is much more detailed. If you have the wire to use though, stick with the Western Union.

Plugged in my obd2 found a P0300. Random misfire. What is this all about?
Does the PCM or any of the sensors need time to recalibrate, and if so could that cause the rough running condition?
Suggestions, comments, cause of code, and solutions to random misfire, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you I advance.

I'll second the TB cleaning. If you had the battery disconnected it relearned the TB when you reconnected power. It expects a clean TB. Having a dirty one when it relearns can cause issues. It seems minor, but it really can cause issues.