1. We are working on the forum's attachment system. Attachments and avatars will be intermittently affected over the next 24 hours.
    Dismiss Notice

Need help for wiring crime stopper sp-502 alarm & remote starting...

Discussion in 'Security Components' started by unico13, Jun 10, 2013.

  1. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    Fortin and CS got back to me. Fortin says the cable is the cable and it should plug in where i can plug in.

    CS says each data port functions the same. Guess we'll see when I go to install it.
     
  2. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    Installing this Sunday since it will be relatively warm here.

    Bench prepping tonight and tomorrow.
     
  3. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    Help!!!! Got the big 6 wired in and went to test start with the key, got accessories powered on, ignition powered on but it won't crank!

    I check and rechecked the wires in the ignition harness, identified them all, and now can't start the truck. Checking fuses but not seeing anything wrong. Thoughts?
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2016
  4. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    Also, I am turning the key to start it and am reading 12v on the starter wire at the harness. What could cause it to not crank?
     
  5. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    Ran through the test your no crank video from may03lt. I have 12v on pin 30 all the time, 12v on pin 85 with truck on, but when I turn to start I am not grounding out pin 86.

    If I jump 87 amd 30 I get crank.

    Am i fucked?
     
  6. coolasice

    coolasice Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    736
    Likes Received:
    227
    did you install the anti grind relay?
     
  7. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    Ok. It's installed and working beautifully. I'll write about the stupidity that lead to the issue tomorrow morning. Right now I need something to eat.
     
  8. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    Alrighty. So, I'm dumb.

    TL;DR I didn't read the multimeter correctly when I did my initial test and despite having an accurate ignition harness wiring diagram to view, I connected the R/S grey ACC1 wire to IGN2 and the R/s Pink/White wire to ACC1. Swapping them fixed the issue.

    My first step after getting to the ignition harness was to test each of the ignition wires in the different key positions. I tested and retested and in conjunction with the IGN2 wire not being white, made the wrong determination that the ACC1 on the left side of the harness was actually an IGN wire and that the not-white IGN2 wire on the right side of the harness was ACC1. I can't recall what exactly I saw on the meter that lead me to assume my car was special, but I believe my meter read the voltage drop so slowly that I didn't witness a 0 volt state on ACC1 when I turned the key to crank that started me down this path.

    So with the high current connector wired into the harness and it not cranking, I started my diagnosis process. I tested the readings again at the harness and at the R/S connector and kept seeing the same thing when cranking. I went through every mini-fuse in both fuse boxes, swapped the two identical relays in the engine bay fuse box, whacked on the solenoid, disconnected the battery (now I need to clean my throttle body), checked things for corrosion, tested the harness again (kept seeing 12V on the starter wire on crank), found may03lt's video and determined that the starter was getting power, thought maybe the voltage was too low and tried a jump pack, saw a solid security light stay on with key in "on" position so tried a security relearn, pulled battery again, worried that I'd ruined the pin on the harness when I was soldering. Finally I said, let me check the harness status one more time. This time I started on the right side and that's when a bulb clicked. After looking at the harness diagram again, I determined I was dumb and on-top of not giving the standard harness diagram more weight, that I had missed something when testing. I cut the grey wire and pink/white wire and swapped them with each other, put in the key, said a silent prayer and turned. Voila! It worked.

    So what I think was happening was, because I had the relay already spliced into the R/S harness to trigger off the grey wire, and the grey wire was wired into IGN2, the relay was closed on start and thus sending power to ACC2 which I guess tells the computer to not activate crank.

    Soldered the wire swap splices, labeled them to make it clear why there was a grey wire going to a pink/white wire and vice-versa and got my other connections done. Ran hood pin wire and alarm wire to engine bay, spliced into OBD2 purple wire, white brake wire at the trailer module, and black/yellow horn wire.

    I installed the hood pin but upon first closure of the hood, it snapped the plastic clean off, so disconnected that for now.

    Additional "fun because i was calorie deprived" info

    So I had everything I wanted hooked up all done. I want to hook up the INT-SL+ and get it programmed. So I follow the instructions, holding down the programming button while plugging in the data-link, releasing the button, plugging in the 7-pin connector, hitting "lock" on the remote, turning key to on, then starting.

    Nothing. WTF?

    Try again. Same deal. @%^*%^#@#$%@#$^%$&$#%^$#%^$%^!@#$(&($%$@!#$!!

    Stop, go take a piss, come back to the garage. DUH. The remote can't talk to the R/S if it doesn't have the antenna connected. (I'm an engineer...this is the stupid shit that gets by me). Connect the antenna (and LED and valet button) and start the process again and ta-da! it works. INT-SL is programmed, doors lock and unlock. Moment of truth. hit the start button and woohoooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! she starts. Brake kills it as intended 2-way comms is working. Fantastic.

    Mount the LED and valet switch in the dash. Tie the R/S and INT-SL together. Secure the relay to the R/S and slide them up into the space behind the headlight switch, tie up all wires, verify everything is plugged in, test the truck again with key and with R/S and get everything close-up.

    Also, after testing the system and verifying all functions i trimmed down and insulated all the unused wires from the R/S and INT-SL.

    Things still left to do: Find a better hood pin or a better location that won't break it, install siren, install shock sensor.

    Useful info:
    • Check, recheck, check again, reference as much info as you can, ask someone before assuming your truck is special.
    • The SP-502 instructions imply (visually) that the 2 separate data ports are meant to be used with 2 different bypass standards. The INT-SL+ comes with a data-link wire that connects to the data port that is implied to be for ADS bypass systems. Fortin and CS verified in roundabout ways that the data ports are identical in operation. I can confirm that that is in fact the case.
    • Also, the INT-SL controls the parking lights so that's one less connection to make to the car.
    Conclusion: While this experience was infuriating, it really wasn't difficult. Maybe my wife will let me do the install on her Subaru next.
     
    MAY03LT and littleblazer like this.
  9. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    And I am happy to report that the INT-SL does turn on the rear defroster when it's <32F. Nice toasting and de-iced car this AM.
     
    MAY03LT likes this.
  10. coolasice

    coolasice Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    736
    Likes Received:
    227
    you have the digital temp controls?
     
  11. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    Yeah.
     
  12. coolasice

    coolasice Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    736
    Likes Received:
    227
    Thought so
     
  13. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    unico13 and @MAY03LT have you had any trouble with the SP-502 LCD remote? Mine just quit working. It started my truck on Sunday morning, but then when I went back to the truck later that day it wouldn't R/S, unlock, lock or anything. The sidekick does work still.

    I checked what I could on the R/S itself. I tried resetting the programming options, tried changing the 2-way/1-way setting itself (which caused the sidekick to not work), reset back to factory again (sidekick worked again) and tried to have the R/S learn the 2-way remote.

    Right now I am assuming that the 2-way remote is busted. not sure how. it was working fine then just stopped. don't recall dropping it, banging it or anything.

    Just curious.
     
  14. MAY03LT

    MAY03LT Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,410
    Likes Received:
    2,671
    I haven't seen that with that particular unit. For r/s fobs in general you can take them to autozone and use their key fob tester just like you would for a regular fob. Sometimes on mine the LED on the fob will light up when I push a button but wont transmit a signal so I only trust a fob tester.
     
  15. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    I reached out to CS and they suspect it's a faulty remote. Seller is exchanging remote for me.

    Thinking back, it was probably in the process of dying on Saturday night. I was within site of the car and it didn't start. I chocked it up to being parked under a train trestle at the time but I guess the transmitting was slowly losing life.

    I didn't know that Autozone offered that test. Would have been a handy quick check.
     
  16. coolasice

    coolasice Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    736
    Likes Received:
    227
    Did you accidently switch the remote to vehicle 2? My gf had that happen before.
     
  17. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    No, that was the first think I checked. Even weirder I was seeing 1-3, 2-3, etc. under the vehicle choice. Not even sure how that came about. According to the user instructions you would only ever see 1-1 and 2-1 if you switched vehicles. Who knows. New remote should be on it's way tomorrow.
     
  18. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    Has anyone had an issue with an install of a SP-502 and Fortin INT-SL where when the vehicle is remote started and running, the vehicle will not unlock? It's started happening and I first thought it was tied to increasing daytime temps, but even on cool mornings the issue has been occurring.

    I am wondering if I need to go back and reprogram from scratch? Maybe I should check my OBDII connection first and ensure that the data wire from the INT-SL and the OBD wire are solid? Maybe it's the 4-pin data wire between the 502 and INT?

    Thoughts?
     
  19. jsheahawk

    jsheahawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    504
    Likes Received:
    169
    My first thought is the OBDII wire. Did you solder all your connections or tap them?
     
  20. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    Soldered everything. I am by no means a pro at it, but I made sure to take care.
     
  21. jsheahawk

    jsheahawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    504
    Likes Received:
    169
    Could be a garbled OBDII signal from somewhere else, but I'd try reprogramming it before you start driving yourself crazy with serial data troubleshooting.
     
  22. Mooseman

    Mooseman Moderator

    Messages:
    11,188
    Likes Received:
    5,574
    What are you using to unlock it? The alarm remote or the OEM one?
     
  23. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    Alarm remote. A signal is being sent by the remote and received by the SP-502 because the LED in the truck is turning off as it normally should but the doors just aren't unlocking. If I shut the truck off with the remote I can then get the car unlock by first pressing the lock button then unlock.
     
  24. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    Now having an issue with triggering a remote start where alarm will go off, i kill alarm with unlock buttong, car attempts to start and immediately dies (assume because it thinks the alarm was triggered) and then accessory power stays on as if car is running.

    also now getting a "brake issue". 1 flash of the parking lights when I try to remote start. Connection to brake wire also soldered and looks solid. Anyone have experience tracking down the "brake issue" RS issue?
     
  25. jsheahawk

    jsheahawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    504
    Likes Received:
    169
    Have you tried unplugging the shock sensor and seeing if that fixes your alarm going off when it starts?

    What do you mean the connection looks solid? If you ground that wire, do your brake lights come on?
     
  26. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    Don't have the shock sensor installed. It's too much of a pain. Tight street parking and frequently bumped by bad drivers trying to squeeze into a tight space or just shitty drivers not giving a shit.

    The soldered connection of the brake wire from the sp502 to the white wire at the turn/hazard/brake relay box looks solid. What I am not clear on is what triggers the "brake issue" fault that cancels the remote start. I would assume that it's limited to the brake being depressed. I've checked the wires and nothing is shorted. Brake lights aren't stuck on. So what else could it be? Internal issue on the SP502 maybe?
     
  27. jsheahawk

    jsheahawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    504
    Likes Received:
    169
    That's very weird that your alarm is going off since the shock sensor is what sets off the alarm. I'd suspect there's something wrong with your unit. Have you tried reprogramming the 502 and your interface box?

    Does grounding the battery wire turn the brake lights on?
     
  28. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    The SP-502 is an alarm and remote starter. The alarm triggering is possibly an issue with the OBDII wire from the INT-SL interface having an issue, or an issue with the INT-SL, or a programming problem since the PASSKEY info is sent over the data wire, IIRC. I'll tear into everything this weekend, while I melt in the northeast heat dome.

    I will check in this order: OBDII wire connection, Brake connection, reprogram INT-SL and SP-502.
     
  29. jsheahawk

    jsheahawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    504
    Likes Received:
    169
    I have the same setup in my TB. I would think your OBDII connection is probably okay because your lock/unlock and starting features work. That's all sent over the serial bus. Check all your connections for continuity, and try severing the brake connection to rule that out. I'm leaning toward a hardware or programming issue.
     
  30. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    I do have an issue with the doors not unlocking after the car had been remote started. It is intermittent. That plus the random alarm trigger and the car remote starting then immediately shutting off are what make me think it could be OBDII connection as well (passkey signal issue through the serial bus)
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2016
  31. jsheahawk

    jsheahawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    504
    Likes Received:
    169
    I would suggest checking all your soldered wires for continuity.
     
  32. TB_n00b

    TB_n00b Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Likes Received:
    13
    I decided to check my solder connections on the OBDII and brake wires since I was already going to be pulling apart the lower dashboard to get to the 502 and INT-SL. Connections were still 100% solid. I checked the brake wire for any voltage reading and the only time it got 12V was when i depressed the brake.

    brake wire.jpg obd2 wire.jpg

    Lastly I went about checking the data link cables for continuity and all were fine. Unit was receiving power. I went ahead and reprogrammed and ta-da, everything works as it should again. At least until the next time it messes up.
     
  33. jsheahawk

    jsheahawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    504
    Likes Received:
    169
    I'm glad you got it fixed. If it goes wonky again, I'd contact the manufacturer.
     
  34. jsheahawk

    jsheahawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    504
    Likes Received:
    169
    Better late than never: YES! It does turn on the rear defroster when it's below freezing. Freaking technology!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 2, 2017
  35. coolasice

    coolasice Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    736
    Likes Received:
    227
    IF you have auto climate controls....
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 2, 2017
  36. jsheahawk

    jsheahawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    504
    Likes Received:
    169
    I have knobs and sliders on my 2002 LS, and it works.
     
  37. coolasice

    coolasice Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    736
    Likes Received:
    227
    Doesn't work on my 08.. even made sure coolant temp was below zero and it never turned on
     
  38. jsheahawk

    jsheahawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    504
    Likes Received:
    169
    Weird.
     
  39. Mike27

    Mike27 Member

    Messages:
    8
    Likes Received:
    0
    If you wire the db gmdlbp to the alarms green and blue negative door locks. How are u gonna lock and unlock the doors thers no wires after that to connect to the doors
     
  40. jsheahawk

    jsheahawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    504
    Likes Received:
    169
    It's done via OBD.
     

Share This Page