Need help for wiring crime stopper sp-502 alarm & remote starting...

TB_n00b

Member
Dec 19, 2011
121
Queens, NY
Fortin and CS got back to me. Fortin says the cable is the cable and it should plug in where i can plug in.

CS says each data port functions the same. Guess we'll see when I go to install it.
 

TB_n00b

Member
Dec 19, 2011
121
Queens, NY
Help!!!! Got the big 6 wired in and went to test start with the key, got accessories powered on, ignition powered on but it won't crank!

I check and rechecked the wires in the ignition harness, identified them all, and now can't start the truck. Checking fuses but not seeing anything wrong. Thoughts?
 
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TB_n00b

Member
Dec 19, 2011
121
Queens, NY
Ran through the test your no crank video from may03lt. I have 12v on pin 30 all the time, 12v on pin 85 with truck on, but when I turn to start I am not grounding out pin 86.

If I jump 87 amd 30 I get crank.

Am i fucked?
 

TB_n00b

Member
Dec 19, 2011
121
Queens, NY
Ok. It's installed and working beautifully. I'll write about the stupidity that lead to the issue tomorrow morning. Right now I need something to eat.
 

TB_n00b

Member
Dec 19, 2011
121
Queens, NY
Alrighty. So, I'm dumb.

TL;DR I didn't read the multimeter correctly when I did my initial test and despite having an accurate ignition harness wiring diagram to view, I connected the R/S grey ACC1 wire to IGN2 and the R/s Pink/White wire to ACC1. Swapping them fixed the issue.

My first step after getting to the ignition harness was to test each of the ignition wires in the different key positions. I tested and retested and in conjunction with the IGN2 wire not being white, made the wrong determination that the ACC1 on the left side of the harness was actually an IGN wire and that the not-white IGN2 wire on the right side of the harness was ACC1. I can't recall what exactly I saw on the meter that lead me to assume my car was special, but I believe my meter read the voltage drop so slowly that I didn't witness a 0 volt state on ACC1 when I turned the key to crank that started me down this path.

So with the high current connector wired into the harness and it not cranking, I started my diagnosis process. I tested the readings again at the harness and at the R/S connector and kept seeing the same thing when cranking. I went through every mini-fuse in both fuse boxes, swapped the two identical relays in the engine bay fuse box, whacked on the solenoid, disconnected the battery (now I need to clean my throttle body), checked things for corrosion, tested the harness again (kept seeing 12V on the starter wire on crank), found may03lt's video and determined that the starter was getting power, thought maybe the voltage was too low and tried a jump pack, saw a solid security light stay on with key in "on" position so tried a security relearn, pulled battery again, worried that I'd ruined the pin on the harness when I was soldering. Finally I said, let me check the harness status one more time. This time I started on the right side and that's when a bulb clicked. After looking at the harness diagram again, I determined I was dumb and on-top of not giving the standard harness diagram more weight, that I had missed something when testing. I cut the grey wire and pink/white wire and swapped them with each other, put in the key, said a silent prayer and turned. Voila! It worked.

So what I think was happening was, because I had the relay already spliced into the R/S harness to trigger off the grey wire, and the grey wire was wired into IGN2, the relay was closed on start and thus sending power to ACC2 which I guess tells the computer to not activate crank.

Soldered the wire swap splices, labeled them to make it clear why there was a grey wire going to a pink/white wire and vice-versa and got my other connections done. Ran hood pin wire and alarm wire to engine bay, spliced into OBD2 purple wire, white brake wire at the trailer module, and black/yellow horn wire.

I installed the hood pin but upon first closure of the hood, it snapped the plastic clean off, so disconnected that for now.

Additional "fun because i was calorie deprived" info

So I had everything I wanted hooked up all done. I want to hook up the INT-SL+ and get it programmed. So I follow the instructions, holding down the programming button while plugging in the data-link, releasing the button, plugging in the 7-pin connector, hitting "lock" on the remote, turning key to on, then starting.

Nothing. WTF?

Try again. Same deal. @%^*%^#@#$%@#$^%$&$#%^$#%^$%^!@#$(&($%$@!#$!!

Stop, go take a piss, come back to the garage. DUH. The remote can't talk to the R/S if it doesn't have the antenna connected. (I'm an engineer...this is the stupid shit that gets by me). Connect the antenna (and LED and valet button) and start the process again and ta-da! it works. INT-SL is programmed, doors lock and unlock. Moment of truth. hit the start button and woohoooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! she starts. Brake kills it as intended 2-way comms is working. Fantastic.

Mount the LED and valet switch in the dash. Tie the R/S and INT-SL together. Secure the relay to the R/S and slide them up into the space behind the headlight switch, tie up all wires, verify everything is plugged in, test the truck again with key and with R/S and get everything close-up.

Also, after testing the system and verifying all functions i trimmed down and insulated all the unused wires from the R/S and INT-SL.

Things still left to do: Find a better hood pin or a better location that won't break it, install siren, install shock sensor.

Useful info:
  • Check, recheck, check again, reference as much info as you can, ask someone before assuming your truck is special.
  • The SP-502 instructions imply (visually) that the 2 separate data ports are meant to be used with 2 different bypass standards. The INT-SL+ comes with a data-link wire that connects to the data port that is implied to be for ADS bypass systems. Fortin and CS verified in roundabout ways that the data ports are identical in operation. I can confirm that that is in fact the case.
  • Also, the INT-SL controls the parking lights so that's one less connection to make to the car.
Conclusion: While this experience was infuriating, it really wasn't difficult. Maybe my wife will let me do the install on her Subaru next.
 

TB_n00b

Member
Dec 19, 2011
121
Queens, NY
unico13 and @MAY03LT have you had any trouble with the SP-502 LCD remote? Mine just quit working. It started my truck on Sunday morning, but then when I went back to the truck later that day it wouldn't R/S, unlock, lock or anything. The sidekick does work still.

I checked what I could on the R/S itself. I tried resetting the programming options, tried changing the 2-way/1-way setting itself (which caused the sidekick to not work), reset back to factory again (sidekick worked again) and tried to have the R/S learn the 2-way remote.

Right now I am assuming that the 2-way remote is busted. not sure how. it was working fine then just stopped. don't recall dropping it, banging it or anything.

Just curious.
 

MAY03LT

Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
I haven't seen that with that particular unit. For r/s fobs in general you can take them to autozone and use their key fob tester just like you would for a regular fob. Sometimes on mine the LED on the fob will light up when I push a button but wont transmit a signal so I only trust a fob tester.
 

TB_n00b

Member
Dec 19, 2011
121
Queens, NY
I reached out to CS and they suspect it's a faulty remote. Seller is exchanging remote for me.

Thinking back, it was probably in the process of dying on Saturday night. I was within site of the car and it didn't start. I chocked it up to being parked under a train trestle at the time but I guess the transmitting was slowly losing life.

I didn't know that Autozone offered that test. Would have been a handy quick check.
 

TB_n00b

Member
Dec 19, 2011
121
Queens, NY
Did you accidently switch the remote to vehicle 2? My gf had that happen before.

No, that was the first think I checked. Even weirder I was seeing 1-3, 2-3, etc. under the vehicle choice. Not even sure how that came about. According to the user instructions you would only ever see 1-1 and 2-1 if you switched vehicles. Who knows. New remote should be on it's way tomorrow.
 

TB_n00b

Member
Dec 19, 2011
121
Queens, NY
Has anyone had an issue with an install of a SP-502 and Fortin INT-SL where when the vehicle is remote started and running, the vehicle will not unlock? It's started happening and I first thought it was tied to increasing daytime temps, but even on cool mornings the issue has been occurring.

I am wondering if I need to go back and reprogram from scratch? Maybe I should check my OBDII connection first and ensure that the data wire from the INT-SL and the OBD wire are solid? Maybe it's the 4-pin data wire between the 502 and INT?

Thoughts?
 

jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
Has anyone had an issue with an install of a SP-502 and Fortin INT-SL where when the vehicle is remote started and running, the vehicle will not unlock? It's started happening and I first thought it was tied to increasing daytime temps, but even on cool mornings the issue has been occurring.

I am wondering if I need to go back and reprogram from scratch? Maybe I should check my OBDII connection first and ensure that the data wire from the INT-SL and the OBD wire are solid? Maybe it's the 4-pin data wire between the 502 and INT?

Thoughts?
My first thought is the OBDII wire. Did you solder all your connections or tap them?
 

jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
Soldered everything. I am by no means a pro at it, but I made sure to take care.
Could be a garbled OBDII signal from somewhere else, but I'd try reprogramming it before you start driving yourself crazy with serial data troubleshooting.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
What are you using to unlock it? The alarm remote or the OEM one?
 

TB_n00b

Member
Dec 19, 2011
121
Queens, NY
Alarm remote. A signal is being sent by the remote and received by the SP-502 because the LED in the truck is turning off as it normally should but the doors just aren't unlocking. If I shut the truck off with the remote I can then get the car unlock by first pressing the lock button then unlock.
 

TB_n00b

Member
Dec 19, 2011
121
Queens, NY
Now having an issue with triggering a remote start where alarm will go off, i kill alarm with unlock buttong, car attempts to start and immediately dies (assume because it thinks the alarm was triggered) and then accessory power stays on as if car is running.

also now getting a "brake issue". 1 flash of the parking lights when I try to remote start. Connection to brake wire also soldered and looks solid. Anyone have experience tracking down the "brake issue" RS issue?
 

jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
Now having an issue with triggering a remote start where alarm will go off, i kill alarm with unlock buttong, car attempts to start and immediately dies (assume because it thinks the alarm was triggered) and then accessory power stays on as if car is running.

also now getting a "brake issue". 1 flash of the parking lights when I try to remote start. Connection to brake wire also soldered and looks solid. Anyone have experience tracking down the "brake issue" RS issue?
Have you tried unplugging the shock sensor and seeing if that fixes your alarm going off when it starts?

What do you mean the connection looks solid? If you ground that wire, do your brake lights come on?
 

TB_n00b

Member
Dec 19, 2011
121
Queens, NY
Have you tried unplugging the shock sensor and seeing if that fixes your alarm going off when it starts?

What do you mean the connection looks solid? If you ground that wire, do your brake lights come on?

Don't have the shock sensor installed. It's too much of a pain. Tight street parking and frequently bumped by bad drivers trying to squeeze into a tight space or just shitty drivers not giving a shit.

The soldered connection of the brake wire from the sp502 to the white wire at the turn/hazard/brake relay box looks solid. What I am not clear on is what triggers the "brake issue" fault that cancels the remote start. I would assume that it's limited to the brake being depressed. I've checked the wires and nothing is shorted. Brake lights aren't stuck on. So what else could it be? Internal issue on the SP502 maybe?
 

jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
Don't have the shock sensor installed. It's too much of a pain. Tight street parking and frequently bumped by bad drivers trying to squeeze into a tight space or just shitty drivers not giving a shit.

The soldered connection of the brake wire from the sp502 to the white wire at the turn/hazard/brake relay box looks solid. What I am not clear on is what triggers the "brake issue" fault that cancels the remote start. I would assume that it's limited to the brake being depressed. I've checked the wires and nothing is shorted. Brake lights aren't stuck on. So what else could it be? Internal issue on the SP502 maybe?
That's very weird that your alarm is going off since the shock sensor is what sets off the alarm. I'd suspect there's something wrong with your unit. Have you tried reprogramming the 502 and your interface box?

Does grounding the battery wire turn the brake lights on?
 

TB_n00b

Member
Dec 19, 2011
121
Queens, NY
That's very weird that your alarm is going off since the shock sensor is what sets off the alarm. I'd suspect there's something wrong with your unit. Have you tried reprogramming the 502 and your interface box?

Does grounding the battery wire turn the brake lights on?

The SP-502 is an alarm and remote starter. The alarm triggering is possibly an issue with the OBDII wire from the INT-SL interface having an issue, or an issue with the INT-SL, or a programming problem since the PASSKEY info is sent over the data wire, IIRC. I'll tear into everything this weekend, while I melt in the northeast heat dome.

I will check in this order: OBDII wire connection, Brake connection, reprogram INT-SL and SP-502.
 

jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
The SP-502 is an alarm and remote starter. The alarm triggering is possibly an issue with the OBDII wire from the INT-SL interface having an issue, or an issue with the INT-SL, or a programming problem since the PASSKEY info is sent over the data wire, IIRC. I'll tear into everything this weekend, while I melt in the northeast heat dome.

I will check in this order: OBDII wire connection, Brake connection, reprogram INT-SL and SP-502.
I have the same setup in my TB. I would think your OBDII connection is probably okay because your lock/unlock and starting features work. That's all sent over the serial bus. Check all your connections for continuity, and try severing the brake connection to rule that out. I'm leaning toward a hardware or programming issue.
 

TB_n00b

Member
Dec 19, 2011
121
Queens, NY
I have the same setup in my TB. I would think your OBDII connection is probably okay because your lock/unlock and starting features work. That's all sent over the serial bus. Check all your connections for continuity, and try severing the brake connection to rule that out. I'm leaning toward a hardware or programming issue.

I do have an issue with the doors not unlocking after the car had been remote started. It is intermittent. That plus the random alarm trigger and the car remote starting then immediately shutting off are what make me think it could be OBDII connection as well (passkey signal issue through the serial bus)
 
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jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
I do have an issue with the doors not unlocking after the car had been remote started. It is intermittent. That plus the random alarm trigger and the car remote starting then immediately shutting off are what make me think it could be OBDII connection as well (passkey signal issue through the serial bus)
I would suggest checking all your soldered wires for continuity.
 

TB_n00b

Member
Dec 19, 2011
121
Queens, NY
I decided to check my solder connections on the OBDII and brake wires since I was already going to be pulling apart the lower dashboard to get to the 502 and INT-SL. Connections were still 100% solid. I checked the brake wire for any voltage reading and the only time it got 12V was when i depressed the brake.

brake wire.jpg obd2 wire.jpg

Lastly I went about checking the data link cables for continuity and all were fine. Unit was receiving power. I went ahead and reprogrammed and ta-da, everything works as it should again. At least until the next time it messes up.
 

jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
I decided to check my solder connections on the OBDII and brake wires since I was already going to be pulling apart the lower dashboard to get to the 502 and INT-SL. Connections were still 100% solid. I checked the brake wire for any voltage reading and the only time it got 12V was when i depressed the brake.

Lastly I went about checking the data link cables for continuity and all were fine. Unit was receiving power. I went ahead and reprogrammed and ta-da, everything works as it should again. At least until the next time it messes up.
I'm glad you got it fixed. If it goes wonky again, I'd contact the manufacturer.
 

jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
curious if data will turn on the rear defroster if it's below freezing. We'll see in a few days when I leave work.
Better late than never: YES! It does turn on the rear defroster when it's below freezing. Freaking technology!
 
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Mike27

Member
Sep 21, 2017
8
New york
Whaddup man! Looks like you did your research on this install, much respect!:thumbsup:

I did a quick search for the 502 manual, but didn't find it. I gotta have the descriptions of some of the wires in the 4, 6, 12, and 7 pin connectors.

This is what I have now:

Door Lock Plug (White 3 PinS Plug)
BLUE (UNLOCK (-) ) = To GMDLBP blue (unlock input -)
RED - not used
GREEN (LOCK (-) ) = To GMDLBP green (lock input -)


*OMEGA DB-GMDLBP
BROWN(NEG GND WHEN RUNNING) = ?
GREEN(LOCK INPUT) = 502's 3 pin
BLUE(UNLOCK INPUT) = 502's 3 pin
VIO&WHTE = not used
VIOLET(DATA OUTPUT) = PURPLE WIRE(OBD2 CONN)
PINK&WHTE(DOOR TRIG OUTPUT) = GREEN wire in 502's 7 pin
PINK = not used
ORANGE = not used
RED (12v CONSTANT) = can wire into constant with RED in 6 pin
BLACK = ground


*6 PINS PLUG (ALL CONNECTED TO THE VEHICLE)
GREY(ACC 1) = (C201) D1 ORANGE
BROWN(STARTER) = (C201) C1 YELLOW ( CUT THE WIRE FOR ANTI GRIND)
*I don't cut yellow, our trucks have anti grind built in*
BOTH REDS(12V) = (C201) D2 RED (C201) B5 RED&WHITE? ( DO I HAVE TO USE BOTH D2 & B5 OR JUST ONE OF THEM?) You'll use both D2 and B5, but I have to see the manual before confirming which goes to which.
PINK(IGN) = (C201) C6 PINK
PINK&WHITE(SELECTABLE:ST#2/IGN#2/ACC#2) = (C201) C5 WHITE (this will be set to IGN 2)


*12 PINS
WHITE&RED(TACH ENGINE MONITOR) = WHITE @ PCM BLUE PLUG#49
BLACK(GND) = MAIN GND
WHITE(-500mA/+10Amps) = ? (should be park lights, have to confirm)
RED/BLACK(10 Amps FUSE) = ? (need description)
BROWN(SIREN) = SIREN FROM STARTER
BROWN&WHITE = NEEDS A RELAY TO FACTORY HORN? (need description)
BLACK&WHITE(DOMELIGHT) = RELAY = (NOT NEEDED, BCM controlled)
GREEN&RED(TRUNK POP RELAY0 = N/A
YELLOW&BLACK(OEM ARM) = NOT NEEDED? (correct)
ORANGE&BLACK(OEM DISARM) = NOT NEEDED? (correct)
ORANGE(- ARM ) = STARTER KILL RELAY
*YELLOW(86) = GREEN OF 12 PINS
*WHITE(85) = (C201) C6 PINK
*GREEN(30) = (C201) C1 YELLOW (CUT) OTHER SIDE
*GREEN(87) = (C201) C1 YELLOW (CUT) MOTOR SIDE

BLUE&WHITE(PASS DOOR LOCK) = ? (not needed)

*7 pins
WHITE(+BRAKE SWITCH) = BRAKE PAL ( WHITE WIRE @ FLASHER) (correct)
BLK&WHITE(START ACT/HAND BREAK) = ? (If this is the park/neutral safety switch, I just ground it. Our trucks can't start if not in park)
PINK(WAIT TO START/CAR JACK) = ? (not needed)
PURPLE(+DOOR SWITCH) = ? (not needed)
GREEN(-DOOR SWITCH) = ? (to gmdlbp)
BLUE(-TRUNK SWITCH) = N/A
GRAY(-HOOD SWITCH) = HOOD SWITCH



You did pretty good! There are still some things that I want to be sure of in the connectors that I mentioned above. I think I noted all of the circuits that I want to know more about. There should also be a ground when running circuit in one of the connectors of the 502.

Some people don't wire in acc2, whether or not you want to is up to you. In awers thread, he showed the acc2 relay. I think you can use the violet/white in the 4 pin for your acc2 relay turn on.

I tap into the park light + wire (brown) in the FAP harness for park lights. This is the only way that I found that the headlights won't flash.
If you wire the db gmdlbp to the alarms green and blue negative door locks. How are u gonna lock and unlock the doors thers no wires after that to connect to the doors
 

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