My 2005 manual has the same thing in it, but it doesn't work for me. Maybe it's the way the DRL killer with auto lights is hooked up that's overriding that function? Oh wellMembers projector retrofits
- Thread starter Mounce
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My 2005 manual has the same thing in it, but it doesn't work for me. Maybe it's the way the DRL killer with auto lights is hooked up that's overriding that function? Oh well
NateDG
Member
I use my parking brake 100% of the time, they still try to fire.Put your park brake on before you start the truck, that will stop the lights from trying to turn on. When you release the park brake, the lights will turn on.
I have no idea why muricans don't like using the park brake.
NateDG
Member
So I did a continuity test on the corrective splitter and on the wire with the diode, there's no tone on the other end. Did I just find the problem?
Not necessarily. A diode will allow electricity to flow in one direction, but not the other. I thought that you said you have removed all correctional splitters from the setup?
NateDG
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NateDG
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So I checked over everything pretty in depth this evening. Figured out which wires were low and hi coming to the headlight. Have voltage at harness for hi beam on DS when the stalk is flipped forward. Goes off when it's off. Everything is operating as it should except for whatever reason, the DS shield still won't drop but the PS operates just fine. Idk. I don't get it.
Only thing I can think of now, is that the internal wiring is damaged/severed, and the signal isn't reaching the splice point that leads to the solenoid wiring. Looking back at your pics, the wiring appears to run up the high beam side from the input plug, and up through the high beam access area, where it's spliced in with other wiring.
Did you check for power at the plug that's exiting the high beam area when you flipped the stalk as well? I know when you had that plug connected via splitter and it saw power, your high beams were always activated. So I think that junction is your problem area to fix.
Did you check for power at the plug that's exiting the high beam area when you flipped the stalk as well? I know when you had that plug connected via splitter and it saw power, your high beams were always activated. So I think that junction is your problem area to fix.
NateDG
Member
Yea, I checked for signal at both the factory hi/low harness, then plugged it into the housing and also checked at the harness coming from the cover puck or whatever it's called.Did you check for power at the plug that's exiting the high beam area when you flipped the stalk as well? I know when you had that plug connected via splitter and it saw power, your high beams were always activated. So I think that junction is your problem area to fix.
Results so far:
Combining the low and hi beam into the relay trigger without the diode causes both DS n PS side to stay stuck on hi mode.
Using the diode splitter allows the the PS to operate normally in both hi and low, but DS stuck on hi.
Only connecting the low beam harness allows the PS to operate normally in both hi and low but DS doesn't go into hi mode.
Only connecting hi beam harness does what ya would expect, no lights fire until stalk flipped forward, then both sides are on hi beam.
Obviously, the DS should operate (and the wiring look) just like the PS. I can't figure out why the high beam wiring is exposed like that, other than what I suggested previously.
If it was my retro, I would open up the DS light, remove the lower turn signal reflector bowl, and investigate the wiring. You shouldn't need splitters, or any external power source to trigger the high beams. It should be self contained within the headlight, using the stock wiring, just like the PS is.
If it was my retro, I would open up the DS light, remove the lower turn signal reflector bowl, and investigate the wiring. You shouldn't need splitters, or any external power source to trigger the high beams. It should be self contained within the headlight, using the stock wiring, just like the PS is.
NateDG
Member
Yea, I don't know what's going on with it. Would that hi beam harness hanging out make sense if the lights were setup to be easily converted to a non quad hi/low setup? I'm planning on taking the thing off the truck tomorrow and see if I can isolate the solenoid wires and ensure they run to the high beam wire of the female plug at the bottom the housing.
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I figured out my DRL killer fails when the dash thingie got pushed down into dash. Need to get the sensor put back
NateDG
Member
I just mean like, maybe they were designed to be easily converted to a non-quad setup and thus the hi beam harness hanging out? I'm just stabbing in the dark. Even BFC said they weren't really sure how these were originally hooked up because GM wiring is crazy. That's the response I got when asking for a wiring diagram, anyway.
To recap previous posts from myself and others, the thing that makes your setup a quad setup, is lighting all 4 bulbs at the same time. That means triggering all 4 ballasts with the low beam signal using the relay harness and splitters. To convert to a non quad setup, either remove the splitters from the relay harness output, and plug those into a pair of ballasts, or just disconnect one side of the splitter from a pair of ballasts.
Has nothing to do with the high beam plug.
This is a bad habit, especially when you have the items in your possession to conduct tests and troubleshooting on. In the event you're not able to get on the forum to ask for help, or people who might be able to provide answers aren't available, you'll need to be able to think through a problem and troubleshoot it logically.
There are 4 wires in the headlight. Low beam signal and ground, high beam signal and ground.
From the testing you've done so far, I know a couple of things.
- You have high beam signal at the OEM plug that enters the headlight when the stalk is flipped.
- When power is applied to the high beam plug output, where there's clearly a splice point with the solenoid wiring, the high beam solenoids fire properly.
- The high beam solenoids do NOT fire when power is supplied via the OEM plug.
What I don't know is if any power is getting to the plug, maybe the polarity is reversed? The solenoids won't fire if the polarity is backwards. Maybe the high beam wire got pinched somewhere, and damaged to the point there's a break? Maybe whoever did the splice in the high beams botched it, and made a clean cut through the high beam power line, and connected the plug's wire to the solenoids, but left the other side loose inside the tape job?
If the splice job was screwed up, you could fix it without having to open the headlight. If you put a paper clip in the high beam plug to short the connection, and then test for continuity at the OEM socket, and there is none, then you definitely have to open them up and inspect the wiring.
If you have the wiring diagrams from Mooseman's thread, you should be good to go from there with the pin assignments. IIRC it's pins 2 and 4, from inside out, but you'll want to double check that.
NateDG
Member
Ok so I had an Apollo 13 moment (let's not make things worse by guessing) so I cut off that hi beam harness, confirmed with 9 volt battery which wires were solenoid wires, tested for signal with stalk flipped forward, and got nothing. Checked fuse, DS hi beam fuse blown. It wasn't last night. I took apart the tape splice, separated and cleaned the ends of the wires, took off the needless harness, respliced and sealed with shrink tube, tucked back into light housing, replaced relay fuse and boom goes the dynamite. All fixed... All this for a shorted wire...
NateDG
Member
What started as simply swapping in the replacement ballasts turned into this:
Didn't have the PS locked in and it vibrated off the bumper and did a face plant on the pavement. Broke the adjustment mounts for the reflector bowl (like what UPS did to the DS) and ripped the wires for the bulb, one out of the base of the bulb and one out of the male AMP connector. Got the bulb fixed (confirmed operational) and now trying to repair reflector bowl mounts. It's just a never-ending battle.
The silver lining is that it didn't appear the 2 projectors were lined up very well so I'll have a chance to hopefully correct that. Is anyone able to offer some insight on best practice for this? Cracking loose old JB Weld and realigning them? Aim the MH1 to the D2S or vice versa etc?
Didn't have the PS locked in and it vibrated off the bumper and did a face plant on the pavement. Broke the adjustment mounts for the reflector bowl (like what UPS did to the DS) and ripped the wires for the bulb, one out of the base of the bulb and one out of the male AMP connector. Got the bulb fixed (confirmed operational) and now trying to repair reflector bowl mounts. It's just a never-ending battle.
The silver lining is that it didn't appear the 2 projectors were lined up very well so I'll have a chance to hopefully correct that. Is anyone able to offer some insight on best practice for this? Cracking loose old JB Weld and realigning them? Aim the MH1 to the D2S or vice versa etc?
What started as simply swapping in the replacement ballasts turned into this:
Didn't have the PS locked in and it vibrated off the bumper and did a face plant on the pavement. Broke the adjustment mounts for the reflector bowl (like what UPS did to the DS) and ripped the wires for the bulb, one out of the base of the bulb and one out of the male AMP connector. Got the bulb fixed (confirmed operational) and now trying to repair reflector bowl mounts. It's just a never-ending battle.
The silver lining is that it didn't appear the 2 projectors were lined up very well so I'll have a chance to hopefully correct that. Is anyone able to offer some insight on best practice for this? Cracking loose old JB Weld and realigning them? Aim the MH1 to the D2S or vice versa etc?
Well at least you have figured out the wiring portion of the retro. I would personally aim whatever projector is in the low beams first on each headlight then aim the projectors in the hi beams on each headlight. At the end, you should have one solid cutoff if everything is aligned properly.
As far as removing JB Weld, you will have to grind or file it off. I have also read that JB weld has a maximum heat threshold of 600*, so you would have to heat the JB Weld above that, but you would start melting components at that temperature.
NateDG
Member
Is this a safe condition to expose to the elements? I don't feel like this stuff is nearly sealed enough. I mean the bulb sticking out the back like that etc...
I'm anxious to bolt em up but this seems sketchy.
I'm anxious to bolt em up but this seems sketchy.
You could smear some silicone around where the bulb seats on the projector to keep any moisture out if you're concerned. That will still be pretty easy to pull/cut when you need to remove the bulb.
Is this a safe condition to expose to the elements? I don't feel like this stuff is nearly sealed enough. I mean the bulb sticking out the back like that etc...
I'm anxious to bolt em up but this seems sketchy.
The RTV Black Ultra should be able to handle the heat from the reflector bowl that is generated by the HID. I pulled my reflector bowls off and painted the entire outside with come black caliper paint for added protection.
I do like Carlton's idea with using the RTV around the bulb, but might be a pain when it comes time to change the bulb. I have read members on HIDP using a small PVC pipe that mates to the backside of the reflector bowl and runs out past the bulb. Then on the bulb side, use a threaded cap with a hole drilled in the center for the wires to come through and a weather proof grommet.
I only had my fogs installed for a week, so I am not sure how the weather/rain/moisture would affect them running them like you have in your picture.
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Quick pic I was able to find. Guy retro'ed Matchbox projectors into his fogs and sealed with some PVC pipe and JB Weld. I think the cap he used is threaded so he could remove it if he needed to replace the bulb.
Another good idea that I forgot about that seems pretty easy with the lack of space we have to use in the bumper, is using a CV boot to cover the back side of the exposed projector. It will make a solid seal and is flexible. I think I might actually go the CV boot route.
Another good idea that I forgot about that seems pretty easy with the lack of space we have to use in the bumper, is using a CV boot to cover the back side of the exposed projector. It will make a solid seal and is flexible. I think I might actually go the CV boot route.
NateDG
Member
Haven't posted anything in a while so I thought I'd knock the cobwebs off... Just wanna say that meticulously shimming HID capsules/bulbs in pursuit of the "perfect output" in vein attempts to salve the OCD.... Sucks. That's all for now.
littleblazer
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Alright... So is anyone presently running 7.0s? I ask because I'm probably retrofitting the Envoy soon. Also, any brand on the housings I should look out for? I used depo for mine and like them a lot.
I really like the DEPO brand. I used them as well for my headlight and fog light retro.
littleblazer
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I think I'm gonna do it. It'll be fun. Gotta find the discount code lurking around for the TRS though. Hopefully the 7.0s come in soon though. It appears they're back ordered.
littleblazer
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Oh boy. I'm first... they look like a major upgrade over the 6.0... maybe I'll upgrade mine and hand them off.... hmm....
littleblazer
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The 6.0s were good. I'm still content with them tbh. But I may not be after these. I'll give a detailed comparison when I'm done I guess.
When it comes to retrofitting, are we ever... really... done? 
I'm also looking forward to seeing how those turn out, maybe my 4th retro won't take me more than a calendar year....
littleblazer
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Hey. I finished mine in 2 days. I guess that's also why I'm forever tweaking them.
I'm also looking forward to seeing how those turn out, maybe my 4th retro won't take me more than a calendar year....
don't be giving my mod bug any ideas it can be lazy now. 
littleblazer
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So I'm just throwing this in here, I ordered depo headlights for the envoy and ended up with eagle eyes. Anyone use these or should I send them back... they seem to be of good quality, the internal wiring is just a little on the thin side imo.
That is the brand I used for my last retro. Baked apart quite easily. 200 degrees for about 15 minutes, and they came right open.
littleblazer
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That was actually my fear. Research said they could be permasealed. I'm not mad since they're about the same price, just expecting depo and getting them was interesting. It has 65watt high bulbs in it too which I think is interesting, thought mine were 55. So you'd say they're on part with everything else?
I'm happy with them so far in the 4 months they've been on the truck. Didn't need to add any butyl to the channels when resealing them either, which was a bonus.
Sparky
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Depo and Eagle Eyes both use butyl. I used Eagle Eyes for my retro in the TB.
FYI - Mini H1 7.0 appears to be back in stock.
FYI - Mini H1 7.0 appears to be back in stock.
littleblazer
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richphotos
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