Took the easy way out and ordered my Domes. I ordered 20 total, just in case of maybe a faulty one or whatever. Then I also want to add a few to some locations, anyhow they look like these:
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View attachment 32762
LED Mod Thread
- Thread starter Blckshdw
- Start date
I am having such a hard time with my door panel switch lights. I just cant seem to get them to work. I've changed my dome lights, and cluster lights to LED's so far. Soldering isn't a problem for me. Does the fact that i'm not using resistors have anything to do with it?
PapaBear229 said:
Yes you have to use resistors. If not it will burn the LEDs out right now.. don't ask me how I know. :what:
I used 560 ohm 1/4 watt resistors on all of my LEDs.
Midnyteryder02 said:Yes you have to use resistors. If not it will burn the LEDs out right now.. don't ask me how I know. :what:
Alright ordering resistors now, thanks.
PapaBear229 said:
So what lights did you put in your cluster, if you didn't use resistors on those either?
Red is one of the darker colors for LEDs, and nothing compares to white in the brightness department. Everyone who's posted pics in this thread knows exactly what you're talking about with the picture not accurately representing how it really looks. 
Unless the LEDs they sent you had some sort of already built in resistor on them, or there's an issue with your cluster not putting out full power on the illumination circuit (I'd confirm this with a meter to rule it out), I would advise pulling those LEDs off and adding resistors or current limiting diodes to them. If you're getting full power on that circuit and the LEDs didn't blow immediately (which is obvious they haven't) the extra current is going to shorten their lifespans dramatically and they're all going to start burning out on you sooner than later, and probably at an inconvenient time at night.
Unless the LEDs they sent you had some sort of already built in resistor on them, or there's an issue with your cluster not putting out full power on the illumination circuit (I'd confirm this with a meter to rule it out), I would advise pulling those LEDs off and adding resistors or current limiting diodes to them. If you're getting full power on that circuit and the LEDs didn't blow immediately (which is obvious they haven't) the extra current is going to shorten their lifespans dramatically and they're all going to start burning out on you sooner than later, and probably at an inconvenient time at night.
Well it's been working for about two months now, all of my gauges work fine except the temp gauge. No idea as to why that one won't work.
PapaBear229 said:
Bad stepper motor. Should probably replace that, or get a cheap OBDII dongle and run Torque pro to keep an eye on your coolant temp.
Well if the LEDs are working, then I guess leave em. Those are the same LEDs you're putting in your doors?
No they are different and I've replaced the stepper motor about 3 times just for that one gauge
Hmm, that explains things a little bit with the LEDs.
If you're having repeated problems with the stepper motor on the temp guage, I would think you've got 1 of 2 problems. Either something is wrong with the cluster's board itself, or there's an issue with the communication coming over the data bus. If nothing else is acting funny (window operation, radio functions, etc) I would lean towards a problem with the cluster.
If you had something to read real time info, you could confirm what the truck/sensor is saying the temp should be, or if you meet any forum members who also have a GMT360/370/305, you can do a temporary cluster swap to see if the funky behavior stays with your cluster or not.
If you're having repeated problems with the stepper motor on the temp guage, I would think you've got 1 of 2 problems. Either something is wrong with the cluster's board itself, or there's an issue with the communication coming over the data bus. If nothing else is acting funny (window operation, radio functions, etc) I would lean towards a problem with the cluster.
If you had something to read real time info, you could confirm what the truck/sensor is saying the temp should be, or if you meet any forum members who also have a GMT360/370/305, you can do a temporary cluster swap to see if the funky behavior stays with your cluster or not.
It really doesn't bother me, I'm just going to get the torque pro app and a dash mount for my phone to keep an eye on the temps
Edit: found out the bulbs in the speedometer have limiting resistors in them.
Edit: found out the bulbs in the speedometer have limiting resistors in them.
So i have been crusin along with the led swap... and now getting to the radio has me stumped... Im pretty sure i have the polarities right, at least for now, but thought i would double check with you guys to see if maybe im missing something... I have never dealt with series wired before so wanted to make sure im doing this right and not wasting the leds..
its a 6 disc changer btw too.
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its a 6 disc changer btw too.
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Midnyteryder02 said:
I would even replace the GM Theftlock blinking light if you can that is on when the car is off. I just went aftermarket also. So I have the ability to do custom lights. I have a pioneer and literally does 1000s many colors.
Venomhatch said:
I will prob end up doing white in that since the only colors I have at moment are pink n white lol.. I will prob just go ahead n start throwing the LEDs in it when I get home tonight n see if they work or not. Still skeptical about the polarities and how its actually wired.. but I will go ahead n be the guinea pig for the nation..
I did the leds in the stock radio in my Sierra. My wife has a 05 Envoy and the stock radio she had in there is the exact same as mine. I don't have the 6 disc but I would think the polarity on most of the buttons would be the same. What I did to figure out polarity was made me a little test light with a led and a couple short wires. I hooked the radio back into the truck while it was taken apart and used the test light to figure out what the polarity was for each button. I think the 6 disc is similar to the single disc except yours has a few more buttons. I'll see if I kept any kind of diagram anywhere. If I come across it I'll post it for you.
Alright so after quite a bit of trial n error, I finally figured out the polarity and got the leds put in.. here is the revised polarity pic..
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View attachment 33065
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Alright guys being a total idiot here, but which side of the led does the resistor go on? and also, normally on an led the longer leg is the negative correct? im having such a blonde moment. 
PapaBear229 said:Alright guys being a total idiot here, but which side of the led does the resistor go on? and also, normally on an led the longer leg is the negative correct? im having such a blonde moment.
Maybe I'm a bit foolish but I would think it wouldn't matter what side it went on. Don't take my word as fact, I'm not an LED mod guy
but basic understanding of series circuits tells me that at least at the circuit level the same result should be seen. Maybe I'm wrong.
IllogicTC said:Maybe I'm a bit foolish but I would think it wouldn't matter what side it went on. Don't take my word as fact, I'm not an LED mod guy
it threw me all off the first time I encountered a resistor on the negative leg, but it will work on either. I always put mine on the positive leg for a simple way to keep track of my polarities...
NinjuhhNutz said:
But i am correct on the longer leg normally being the negative?
NinjuhhNutz said:
Staying consistent is a good idea. Pick one leg or the other and stick with it for all resistors.
PapaBear229 said:
Longer leg is positive. Some LEDs also have a "flat spot" on the side of the base, which is the negative lead, for extra reference. You can always use a multimeter to test LED polarity, if you have the diode/continuity selection available.
NinjuhhNutz said:
Good point to each their own. I did resistors on negative with the thinking striped wires are negative, and stripes on resistor so...
Figured would throw a pic of my gauges since its the last dash led mod
First had to remove the blue on the numbers:
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Finished product before lens install:
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First had to remove the blue on the numbers:
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Finished product before lens install:
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Here is a video I posted early on about resistors. Goes over what resistors do and how they work. Also, covers the difference between stripes at 3:20.
I have other videos on post #1230 of this thread. Talking about Ohms, How to use digital multimeter, How diodes work, How capacitors work, and lastly about LEDs.
[video=youtube;VPVoY1QROMg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VPVoY1QROMg[/video]
I have other videos on post #1230 of this thread. Talking about Ohms, How to use digital multimeter, How diodes work, How capacitors work, and lastly about LEDs.
[video=youtube;VPVoY1QROMg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VPVoY1QROMg[/video]
MAY03LT said:
some goo gone, a copper brillo pad, and lots of elbow grease.. lmao
it wasnt too bad, just had to watch around the info display and the turn, high, cruise indicators. every where there is white on the back of the gauges there is blue under it, so when you get done almost all of the white will be gone also. the red on the oil, battery, temp, and fuel gauges is molded into the face, so i didnt worry about going through them and not having the red.Midnyteryder02 said:some goo gone, a copper brillo pad, and lots of elbow grease.. lmao
You have no idea how awesome this is!:wootwoot:
This picture sucks but you can see how much the blue 'dimmed down' the cluster compared to the headlight switch. The same LEDs/resistors are in both:
This thing has driven me crazy for years. I wasn't going to buy the usspeedo one that didn't have the blue (it was over $300 and I don't even know if they make it anymore anyway).
Thanks for the help!!!!
MAY03LT said:You have no idea how awesome this is!:wootwoot:
This picture sucks but you can see how much the blue 'dimmed down' the cluster compared to the headlight switch. The same LEDs/resistors are in both:
This thing has driven me crazy for years. I wasn't going to buy the usspeedo one that didn't have the blue (it was over $300 and I don't even know if they make it anymore anyway).
Thanks for the help!!!!
Haha no problem! Glad I could help!
I kinda went overboard n put 2 LEDs each where one was.. here is mine all put back together for now. Gotta tear it back apart in another week to replace the stepper motors that decided to take a dive when I pulled everything apart..
Midnyteryder02 said:
That turned out great! Looks like we're both gonna be tearing apart our clusters real soon.
And I don't think overboard exists in this thread.
DDonnie said:
Did you ever get around to trying this? I'd love to have white for finding stuff and red for cool mode.
Midnyteryder02 said:Those are deff bright!!!
Surprisingly the map function for each seat is about a 1/4 as bright.
Venomhatch said:
there was talk about that before.. mine does the same thing.. but if you just flip your vanity mirror open then the leds will be full power.. i just flip em open n closed real quick..
Midnyteryder02 said:there was talk about that before.. mine does the same thing.. but if you just flip your vanity mirror open then the leds will be full power.. i just flip em open n closed real quick..
Yeah I forgot about the vanty lights in the mirrors. Going to have to change those next.
Added: *Where can I find the pics where someone had showed the work on their vanity lights?
MAY03LT said:And I don't think overboard exists in this thread.
Absolutely. I'd still love to see a project where someone takes an Arduino or some other logic board and makes full-custom setups. Whether it be an EQ visualization in the dash, or an array which makes patterns, perhaps something really cool would be to make something to simulate that all-in-one dummy lamp on the early 2000s Impalas, where one window shows you all the different things. An array could show a battery symbol for the charging system, or the MIL, or maybe just a checkmark if everything is okay, if it could be designed to properly interface with the vehicle's systems either directly or through some sort of "middleman."
Venomhatch said:
View attachment 33138
Venomhatch said:
This is what I followed when I did mine:
TrailBlazn420 said:
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djthumper said:Funny you ask that! Have you read through this thread lately? http://gmtnation.com/f33/led-mod-thread-944/ It is packed full of information on LED lighting and mods.
There's also 54 pages of it.
my Google Fu is broken after watching the tiny roomie all day and looking up trains Seems to me like a bunch of people just buy a huge bag of CCC because per-unit it was cheaper than the dirt under their feet. I want something with a known high reliability.
For my domes and license plate lights Amazon.com: AGT 10x 194 168 2825 5-SMD White High Power LED Car Lights Bulb: Automotive
for my cargo area Cutequeen Trading 2PCS White 5050 48SMD 48-SMD LED Panel Dome Light Lamp + T10 BA9S Festoon Adapter (pack of 2) : Amazon.com : Automotive
For my reverse Classy Autos Backup Daytime Running Light White LED Bulbs Reverse Light 54-SMD 3156 3157 3757 4114 4157 : Amazon.com : Automotive
for my cargo area Cutequeen Trading 2PCS White 5050 48SMD 48-SMD LED Panel Dome Light Lamp + T10 BA9S Festoon Adapter (pack of 2) : Amazon.com : Automotive
For my reverse Classy Autos Backup Daytime Running Light White LED Bulbs Reverse Light 54-SMD 3156 3157 3757 4114 4157 : Amazon.com : Automotive
Just bought these: 4pc White T20 3047 3057 3155 3156 3157 3157LL CREE Q5 12SMD LED Brake Tail Light | eBay for the reverse lights on the Envoy. The extra two from the pack? Going in my cornering lamps.