Yes, we will modify the tune for the Kooks headers. As far as the order sheet goes, select longtube headers and in the comments box at the end tell us that you have the kooks headers.
Kooks 4.2L I6 Header
- Thread starter novajoe
- Start date
mark'stb
Member
- Dec 17, 2011
- 94
Mine is a 2007. What's troubling is when I was called and told the header is ready to ship, the only question they asked was what year it is so as to ship the correct O2 sensor harness. Even more strange is that the GM shop manual does not even show a gasket there or mention it in the procedure to replace the cat. Now, I need to ait at least another week to install the header.
fishsticks
Member
- Nov 21, 2011
- 433
fishsticks said:Headers installed! Possibly the easiest set of headers I've ever put on a rig.
Writeup coming.
I am glad to here you got them installed. So what do you think about them?
fishsticks
Member
- Nov 21, 2011
- 433
novajoe said:
I think I'm sad that the truck doesn't belong to me anymore!
My buddy who bought it is in love though.
ScarabEpic22
Member
- Nov 20, 2011
- 728
fishsticks said:I think I'm sad that the truck doesn't belong to me anymore!
My buddy who bought it is in love though.
He needs a re-tune...either from me or PCMofNC.
fishsticks
Member
- Nov 21, 2011
- 433
Obligatory open header video...
[video=youtube;4eEzILmlBQA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4eEzILmlBQA&feature=youtu.be[/video]
[video=youtube;4eEzILmlBQA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4eEzILmlBQA&feature=youtu.be[/video]
fishsticks
Member
- Nov 21, 2011
- 433
How to install your Kooks Headers:
This will be a quick and dirty how-to with pictures to follow. I have a body lift, no EGR and all of my manifold bolts came out easily. In my driveway with air tools, I had everything out and these headers installed in slightly less than an hour.
Tools needed:
Screwdrivers
3/8" drive ratchet (air ratchet highly recommended)
10mm socket
13mm sockets, shallow and deep
15mm sockets, shallow and deep
19mm 1/2" drive socket and breaker bar or impact (to remove wheel)
22mm O2 sensor socket
Wobbly
Extensions
Dead-blow hammer
Anti-seize
Pitfalls:
1. I was given an O2 extension with incorrect connectors. The connectors will fit, but need to have the internal tabs removed on the female plugs.
2. There was no hardware to attach the trans dipstick to the relocation bracket.
Part I - Disassembly
1. Jack up front passenger corner of truck. Put frame on jackstand. Remove passenger front wheel. Remove inner fender liner.
2. Remove airbox top, air filter and inlet tube.
3. Remove 10mm nuts (5) for trans dipstick bracket and manifold heat shield. Push trans dipstick towards shock tower.
4. Remove 10mm nut for oil dipstick/AC line.
5. Remove dipstick by gently pulling upward while wiggling.
6. Pull AC line bracket off of stud.
7. Loosen 10mm nut on CPAS retainer and rotate CPAS connector to 12 o'clock position.
8. Disconnect upstream O2 sensor connector.
9. Remove upstream O2 sensor with O2 sensor socket
10. Remove manifold heat shield and discard.
11. Remove manifold to head bolts (11, 13mm). Start at the ends and work your way towards the middle. An air ratchet makes this quick and easy. I was able to reach and remove all 11 bolts with an air ratchet and deep 13mm.
12. Remove manifold to downpipe bolts (3, 15mm).
13. Pull manifold out from top.
14. Remove downpipe to cat-back bolts (2, 15mm). Unplug downstream O2 sensor connector.
15. Pull cat-back out of front rubber hanger and tie out of the way.
16. Slide downpipe rearward out of its hanger. Drop front of downpipe down then slide the whole unit out towards the front of truck.
Part II - Assembly
1. The headers are divided into two halves which share a bolt hole in the center. For simplicity, I'll refer to the halves and their respective ports as the front and rear banks.
2. Locate included header flange bolts. Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads of each. Place within reach.
3. Install a new upstream O2 sensor into the front header. Do this now, as you won't have room to later.
4. Place the included gasket against the head and screw one bolt into the top center hole. Just a few turns will do. Take another bolt and install it a couple turns into one of the rear bank holes. This will hold the gasket in place while we work.
5. Since the front bank header is closer to the block, we'll install it first. Drop the header in from the top. I found it easiest to position it and install the bolts through the wheel well. Install each of the bolts by hand. Just a few turns will do for now.
6. Remove the bolt used to hold the gasket on the rear bank. Then install the rear bank header. Remember, don't fully tighten the bolts yet.
7. Grab the Y section and (2) small band clamps. Slide the band clamps over the small pipes on the Y section.
8. Slide under the truck and mate the Y section to the collectors of each header. They should start easily enough since the heads aren't tight yet. Use a dead blow hammer to seat the slip joints all the way. There should be no open space in the slots. (Refer to the picture below.) Do not tighten band clamps yet. Slide the large band clamp over the rear of the Y section.
9. Return to top of truck and tighten all header flange bolts. Start at the front and rear ends and work towards the middle. The top center bolt (the shared hole) should be the last bolt you tighten. The 2 bottom bolts closest to the power steering pump on the front header, will need a wobbly and shallow 13mm socket to tighten.
10. Install the cat/downpipe section. Slide it in from the front (or from the rear if you have a body lift). Insert the hanger prongs into the rubber hanger and mate the flared end to the rear of the Y section. More persuasion with the dead-blow helps here. Again, make sure the slotted pipe is fully on the Y section.
11. Install the downstream O2 sensor. Reusing this sensor is OK. The bung is placed in a really handy spot, so it's easiest to install after the downpipe is under the truck. Don't forget to plug the connector back in.
12. Slide all 3 band clamps over their respective slotted sections and tighten with a 15mm deep socket.
13. Reattach the cat-back and tighten the (2) 15mm nuts. Make sure you hook the cat-back onto its rubber hanger. You are done under the truck.
14. Install the trans-dipstick relocation bracket. It bolts to the EGR port on the head. Mine didn't come with a bolt/nut to attach the dipstick tube. I had to grab one from my hardware stash.
15. Connect the upstream O2 sensor using the provided extension. I was given an extension with the wrong connector types, but removing a couple tabs in the female connectors allowed them to fit and lock anyway. Zip tie this in such a way that it will not contact the header.
16. Rotate the CPAS back to its original position and tighten the retainer bolt.
17. Reinstall the oil dipstick. Move the AC line back onto the stud and tighten both down.
18. Install the air intake inlet, filter and box top.
It looks like a lot, but it's really very simple.
I just pounded all that out in one sitting, so there's a good chance I forgot some minor detail. As soon as I get a chance to upload pics, I'll post them.
I got to test drive it while its new owner took video.
[video=youtube;RBbwX6oCfnI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBbwX6oCfnI&feature=youtu.be[/video]
This will be a quick and dirty how-to with pictures to follow. I have a body lift, no EGR and all of my manifold bolts came out easily. In my driveway with air tools, I had everything out and these headers installed in slightly less than an hour.
Tools needed:
Screwdrivers
3/8" drive ratchet (air ratchet highly recommended)
10mm socket
13mm sockets, shallow and deep
15mm sockets, shallow and deep
19mm 1/2" drive socket and breaker bar or impact (to remove wheel)
22mm O2 sensor socket
Wobbly
Extensions
Dead-blow hammer
Anti-seize
Pitfalls:
1. I was given an O2 extension with incorrect connectors. The connectors will fit, but need to have the internal tabs removed on the female plugs.
2. There was no hardware to attach the trans dipstick to the relocation bracket.
Part I - Disassembly
1. Jack up front passenger corner of truck. Put frame on jackstand. Remove passenger front wheel. Remove inner fender liner.
2. Remove airbox top, air filter and inlet tube.
3. Remove 10mm nuts (5) for trans dipstick bracket and manifold heat shield. Push trans dipstick towards shock tower.
4. Remove 10mm nut for oil dipstick/AC line.
5. Remove dipstick by gently pulling upward while wiggling.
6. Pull AC line bracket off of stud.
7. Loosen 10mm nut on CPAS retainer and rotate CPAS connector to 12 o'clock position.
8. Disconnect upstream O2 sensor connector.
9. Remove upstream O2 sensor with O2 sensor socket
10. Remove manifold heat shield and discard.
11. Remove manifold to head bolts (11, 13mm). Start at the ends and work your way towards the middle. An air ratchet makes this quick and easy. I was able to reach and remove all 11 bolts with an air ratchet and deep 13mm.
12. Remove manifold to downpipe bolts (3, 15mm).
13. Pull manifold out from top.
14. Remove downpipe to cat-back bolts (2, 15mm). Unplug downstream O2 sensor connector.
15. Pull cat-back out of front rubber hanger and tie out of the way.
16. Slide downpipe rearward out of its hanger. Drop front of downpipe down then slide the whole unit out towards the front of truck.
Part II - Assembly
1. The headers are divided into two halves which share a bolt hole in the center. For simplicity, I'll refer to the halves and their respective ports as the front and rear banks.
2. Locate included header flange bolts. Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads of each. Place within reach.
3. Install a new upstream O2 sensor into the front header. Do this now, as you won't have room to later.
4. Place the included gasket against the head and screw one bolt into the top center hole. Just a few turns will do. Take another bolt and install it a couple turns into one of the rear bank holes. This will hold the gasket in place while we work.
5. Since the front bank header is closer to the block, we'll install it first. Drop the header in from the top. I found it easiest to position it and install the bolts through the wheel well. Install each of the bolts by hand. Just a few turns will do for now.
6. Remove the bolt used to hold the gasket on the rear bank. Then install the rear bank header. Remember, don't fully tighten the bolts yet.
7. Grab the Y section and (2) small band clamps. Slide the band clamps over the small pipes on the Y section.
8. Slide under the truck and mate the Y section to the collectors of each header. They should start easily enough since the heads aren't tight yet. Use a dead blow hammer to seat the slip joints all the way. There should be no open space in the slots. (Refer to the picture below.) Do not tighten band clamps yet. Slide the large band clamp over the rear of the Y section.
9. Return to top of truck and tighten all header flange bolts. Start at the front and rear ends and work towards the middle. The top center bolt (the shared hole) should be the last bolt you tighten. The 2 bottom bolts closest to the power steering pump on the front header, will need a wobbly and shallow 13mm socket to tighten.
10. Install the cat/downpipe section. Slide it in from the front (or from the rear if you have a body lift). Insert the hanger prongs into the rubber hanger and mate the flared end to the rear of the Y section. More persuasion with the dead-blow helps here. Again, make sure the slotted pipe is fully on the Y section.
11. Install the downstream O2 sensor. Reusing this sensor is OK. The bung is placed in a really handy spot, so it's easiest to install after the downpipe is under the truck. Don't forget to plug the connector back in.
12. Slide all 3 band clamps over their respective slotted sections and tighten with a 15mm deep socket.
13. Reattach the cat-back and tighten the (2) 15mm nuts. Make sure you hook the cat-back onto its rubber hanger. You are done under the truck.
14. Install the trans-dipstick relocation bracket. It bolts to the EGR port on the head. Mine didn't come with a bolt/nut to attach the dipstick tube. I had to grab one from my hardware stash.
15. Connect the upstream O2 sensor using the provided extension. I was given an extension with the wrong connector types, but removing a couple tabs in the female connectors allowed them to fit and lock anyway. Zip tie this in such a way that it will not contact the header.
16. Rotate the CPAS back to its original position and tighten the retainer bolt.
17. Reinstall the oil dipstick. Move the AC line back onto the stud and tighten both down.
18. Install the air intake inlet, filter and box top.
It looks like a lot, but it's really very simple.
I just pounded all that out in one sitting, so there's a good chance I forgot some minor detail. As soon as I get a chance to upload pics, I'll post them.
I got to test drive it while its new owner took video.
[video=youtube;RBbwX6oCfnI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBbwX6oCfnI&feature=youtu.be[/video]
DenaliHD66
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Ok. The open header sound awesome. I would drive around just like that. Was the test drive with the exhaust on or still running open header?
There are a couple 02-05s in stock. Catted and off-road.
$942.45 with cats
$885.80 without cats
06+s are gonna be a little wait.
$942.45 with cats
$885.80 without cats
06+s are gonna be a little wait.
fishsticks
Member
- Nov 21, 2011
- 433
Test drive was with a 2 chamber welded muffler on and pipe all the way to the rear, which is what I've run on it forever. It definitely changes the sound up over the stock manifold.
This truck is on 35" tires. Even with 4.56 gears, it's no racecar. It feels like it's got some more kick in the midrange though.
I have PCMofNCs "normal" tune on it already.
This truck is on 35" tires. Even with 4.56 gears, it's no racecar.
It feels like it's got some more kick in the midrange though.I have PCMofNCs "normal" tune on it already.
Kelly@PCMofNC
Member
- Mar 16, 2013
- 189
palitoiii said:
I finally added it, and I apologize for the delay!
2002-2005 Kooks I6 Trailblazer Header
Seeing these headers first hand, I'm super impressed. They are very high quality just as the rest of Kooks products are. I know the price may seem steep but we're not talking about a set of pacesetters here, these are high quality stainless steel and the workmanship is superb. We're talking about a piece that will look great for years to come, not just for the first week you put it on. I think they also sound great and the performance increase is well worth it.
XUVFISCH said:What"s the coupon code to take it down to the $700 I should have got them for?Since the guy at Kooks didnt call me back on them.
"callkooks" lol
- - - Updated - - -
dmanns67 said:
Not sure how much of a wait there is gonna be.
DenaliHD66
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
mark'stb
Member
- Dec 17, 2011
- 94
Kuchar09 said:
The problem is not with the headers, it is where the cat bolts to the muffler. It is a different style of connection. The solution is to change the flange where it connects to the muffler. In my situation, I'm just going to remove the 2002-5 flange and install a 2006-7 style flange. If this works, you can do the same or wait until Kook's releases the pipe with the correct flange already installed. Doing it this way is not a big deal for me since I have access to everything I need to do the change. These are the little quirks that need to dealt with whenever you get a first run of a product. Been here many times installing one-off pieces to test. If this works out, I'll again contact Kook's and tell them of the results and give them whatever info they need to make the pipe a direct bolt in instead of having the custmoer tig the flange on.
ScarabEpic22
Member
- Nov 20, 2011
- 728
Kuchar09
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 150
Well I'm working on getting my header on and once I got the heat shield off I found out that my header isn't cracked but instead the farthest back 3 bolts were broken off. The farthest one broke off in the head and the other 2 at the head so I could get them out with vice grips. I'm working on drilling out the farthest but it doesn't want to come out after I drilled all the way though the bolt.
I also ended up snapping off the 2 bolts where the cat connects to the muffler which are also being a pain to remove now.
Hopefully I receive kooks extension for the 06+ TB tomorrow and I can get the header on if it doesn't rain all day but I have a few questions first.
1. Is there anything I should check that could have caused these 3 bolts to break or is it just bad luck?
2. Do I need a gasket where the cat bolts to the muffler?
3. Is there a torque spec for the header bolts for the motor?
4. What are the size of the threads for the header bolts since I'm going to need to tap the one I'm drilling out?
Thanks in advance for your help!!!
I also ended up snapping off the 2 bolts where the cat connects to the muffler which are also being a pain to remove now.
Hopefully I receive kooks extension for the 06+ TB tomorrow and I can get the header on if it doesn't rain all day but I have a few questions first.
1. Is there anything I should check that could have caused these 3 bolts to break or is it just bad luck?
2. Do I need a gasket where the cat bolts to the muffler?
3. Is there a torque spec for the header bolts for the motor?
4. What are the size of the threads for the header bolts since I'm going to need to tap the one I'm drilling out?
Thanks in advance for your help!!!
palitoiii said:
The biggest obstacle is removing the old bolts.
The rest of the install is a breeze.
I really like the headers. Looks form and function are excellent.
DenaliHD66
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 597
Pub blaster and start a week or two ahead of time. I began to spray the blots every day and still had two break but they came out buy hand after the manifold was removed.
PB blaster. Not pub blaster (auto spell got me). I soaked the bolts with it everyday and it helped loosen up them up. The very back bolt was missing the head before I even started.
