Mirror
Member
Installed new Android Stereo thoughts.
- Thread starter isaacmaple08
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Mirror
Member
Mirror
Member
Every wiring diagram says the four outer corners aren't used. Then what are these 4? Green and black with white strip then two solid orange.
Also, which wires are what? I'm starting to think that green wire is for one of the speakers.
Also, which wires are what? I'm starting to think that green wire is for one of the speakers.
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Mirror
Member
The only wires I'm not sure about are the three on the top right. orange - serial data, purple/white - fm sig and gray - enable sig.
Nothing on the wire harness i got from walmart uses these 3 wires.
Also there is no reverse, ignition or dimmer wires from the vehicle side harness (picture)
Also where would the steering wheeling controls harness be?
I wired up everything to the walmart harness (speakers, yellow constant and ground). Plugged it into vehicle and then into radio. the buttons blinked once but the stereo would not power on (possible due to the lack of power wire)
Nothing on the wire harness i got from walmart uses these 3 wires.
Also there is no reverse, ignition or dimmer wires from the vehicle side harness (picture)
Also where would the steering wheeling controls harness be?
I wired up everything to the walmart harness (speakers, yellow constant and ground). Plugged it into vehicle and then into radio. the buttons blinked once but the stereo would not power on (possible due to the lack of power wire)
Mirror
Member
Don't expect much from the Walmart adapter. What brand was it? I'll bet it was a Scosche. They are pretty cheap and minimalist. I used that because I didn't have Bose and needed it now. For the reverse, I used the power wire from the camera connected at the backup light in the back. It's supposed to be used to supply power to the camera from under the dash but I used it to activate the HU.
Mirror
Member
You used the reverse wire to power up the hu? Wouldn't that wire only be activated while in reverse?
Mirror
Member
Mirror
Member
Ok, got the stereo to turn on. speaker wires have power at the harness but no audio output. Volume is up and mute is off. Any ideas?
You said you don't have Bose right?
I used the reverse light power to turn on the reverse screen on the HU.
I used the reverse light power to turn on the reverse screen on the HU.
Mirror
Member
Oh you mean the reverse cam.
Yes i dont have bose.
But i still cant figure out why i have no audio. Every speaker wire has power (used a ground/power tester light)
Yes i dont have bose.
But i still cant figure out why i have no audio. Every speaker wire has power (used a ground/power tester light)
Mirror
Member
I just realized, i have the grey power antenna line, but no power antenna.
Also anyone know what the second orange wire is under the constant wire? I test it and my testing light illuminates, but dimmly and doesnt constantly stay on unless i move the needle on the tester around on that wire
Also anyone know what the second orange wire is under the constant wire? I test it and my testing light illuminates, but dimmly and doesnt constantly stay on unless i move the needle on the tester around on that wire
Mirror
Member
so i found out the second orange wire is a data wire, not to be used.
But if I have no power antenna wire, is this the wire i need to hook the amp wire from the deck to, to possibly get audio?
But if I have no power antenna wire, is this the wire i need to hook the amp wire from the deck to, to possibly get audio?
Mirror
Member
i decided to take the power antenna line from the head unit (which has power when the unit is on) and connect it to the power antenna wire on the factory harness. As soon as I connect it, my power tester says there is no power and it doesn't spark so it's not grounding it's self.
Hooking up that wire won't do anything.
did you check the HU's settings so that it will output sound? Might be set to use just the RCA outputs to an amp or something.
did you check the HU's settings so that it will output sound? Might be set to use just the RCA outputs to an amp or something.
Mirror
Member
Ya found that out. I checked all the settings including unlocking the factory settings. Nothing to switch from wired to rca. I even tried the rca hookuos with one speaker and got nothing.
The RCA would be pre-amp output so you would have gotten very low to no output, certainly not enough to operate speakers. Maybe try to connect some headphones to the RCA to see if anything is coming out of them. You might have a defective HU.
Mirror
Member
The rca's on this have sub, and 4 speakers output.
They sent me an update but still didnt work. So they are working with the techs to figure this out.
They sent me an update but still didnt work. So they are working with the techs to figure this out.
Mirror
Member
Well sent the unit back and paid the difference for the newest model. Hooked it up direct to battery and used a stand alone speaker, this ine works.
Hooked it up to the pacrp5-gm11 canbus and everything works. Now just have to wire in the backup cam, remove all wires i'm not using from the stereos harness and modify the dash shroud to fit the stereo.
Hooked it up to the pacrp5-gm11 canbus and everything works. Now just have to wire in the backup cam, remove all wires i'm not using from the stereos harness and modify the dash shroud to fit the stereo.
Mirror
Member
Mirror
Member
So was it a direct plug in without an adapter harness? Looks like a direct bolt in and has its own harness. How does the install look like? Did you need any trimming? Pics?
Mirror
Member
No i had to modify the harness. Pulled the pins out of the plugs i needed and soldiered them to the pac harness. Still need to clean up the harness that came with the stereo by removing any wires not in use.
Rught now it being held in by two screws. Gotta do sone trimming and custim workbto make it fit properly. I dont have the dash bezel on right now.
Rught now it being held in by two screws. Gotta do sone trimming and custim workbto make it fit properly. I dont have the dash bezel on right now.
Mirror
Member
Mirror
Member
Yep thats why i have to do some custom trimming to make it sit more flush. I know i have to do a little trimming on the bezel for the knobs
Mirror
Member
Dang nice work. I just put new bulbs in my original OE stereo. Wish I had considered that before all the dash work I have done lately. I did a compustar remote start/alarm install recently. Haha I bought a BT adapter from Amazon to play music from my phone on 87.7 FM, this is 2018. Im living in 2009 
Mirror
Member
Welp, guess it's my turn to contribute to this thread! 
Picked up an Xtrons TE103AP unit off Amazon this weekend, received and installed last night. This thing is pretty massive and takes up every bit of room inside our dashes. Previously I had my PAC adapter, chimes module, and steering wheel control module in there. Those all needed to get relocated. Mostly behind the rear wiper switch, or pushed up as high as possible. It might not be so bad, but they give you 5 wiring harnesses to plug into this thing, with a million connections, which of course the ones I needed were spread between ALL of them. The thought of chopping wires did cross my mind more than a few times, but I made it work.
The unit comes with slotted adjustable brackets, so you could theoretically control how deep inside your dash the unit sits. I was also able to use one bolt on each side to hold it in place, and not have to cut those locating nipples off. (not pictured, but I can get some if anyone decides go go with this unit later)
Clearances are good, it's closer to the gear shift (obviously) but not in the way. Not sure why the 2nd pic looks like it's almost touching
I can get to the rear wiper and HVAC controls all the same. This also opens up my center air vents more, as I no longer need to have my phone mounted up there. 
Downside is, anytime I need to remove that dash panel, I have to disconnect the screen. It's secured by 2 pins on either side of the hinge, that have to be pulled out with a pick tool. No way to do it with just your fingers. The screen has a ribbon cable (IDE style for the computer folks) that plugs into the main body. The vertical adjustment is nice, wish it had some side to side adjustment but I'll live.
Everything looks great on the larger screen, especially Waze, compared to my phone. It's advertised as being able display 2 apps side by side, I haven't figured that out yet, so I'll have to read the manual, but that will be great for things like navigation and Torque at the same time.
It's gonna take me a while to get everything configured, was hoping it would be delivered earlier in the day, so I'd have all day to install and play with it, but it came in the evening instead. It mutes music playback when the backup cam comes on, so I sure hope there's a setting I can find to change that.
Picked up an Xtrons TE103AP unit off Amazon this weekend, received and installed last night. This thing is pretty massive and takes up every bit of room inside our dashes. Previously I had my PAC adapter, chimes module, and steering wheel control module in there. Those all needed to get relocated. Mostly behind the rear wiper switch, or pushed up as high as possible. It might not be so bad, but they give you 5 wiring harnesses to plug into this thing, with a million connections, which of course the ones I needed were spread between ALL of them. The thought of chopping wires did cross my mind more than a few times, but I made it work.
The unit comes with slotted adjustable brackets, so you could theoretically control how deep inside your dash the unit sits. I was also able to use one bolt on each side to hold it in place, and not have to cut those locating nipples off. (not pictured, but I can get some if anyone decides go go with this unit later)
Clearances are good, it's closer to the gear shift (obviously) but not in the way. Not sure why the 2nd pic looks like it's almost touching
I can get to the rear wiper and HVAC controls all the same. This also opens up my center air vents more, as I no longer need to have my phone mounted up there. Downside is, anytime I need to remove that dash panel, I have to disconnect the screen. It's secured by 2 pins on either side of the hinge, that have to be pulled out with a pick tool. No way to do it with just your fingers. The screen has a ribbon cable (IDE style for the computer folks) that plugs into the main body. The vertical adjustment is nice, wish it had some side to side adjustment but I'll live.
Everything looks great on the larger screen, especially Waze, compared to my phone. It's advertised as being able display 2 apps side by side, I haven't figured that out yet, so I'll have to read the manual, but that will be great for things like navigation and Torque at the same time.
It's gonna take me a while to get everything configured, was hoping it would be delivered earlier in the day, so I'd have all day to install and play with it, but it came in the evening instead. It mutes music playback when the backup cam comes on, so I sure hope there's a setting I can find to change that.
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- Jul 22, 2015
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Chr!st on a cross...that screen looks tablet-sized!
Keep us posted on how you like it. Thx
Keep us posted on how you like it. Thx
People are going to think he dropped a TB body on a Tesla frame with a screen that big!
xavierny25
Member
Chr!st on a cross...that screen looks tablet-sized!
Keep us posted on how you like it. Thx
It basically is... I remembered how cool it was, when people were actually installing tablets in their dashes, but it was a royal pain to get an interface to work as desired (ignition functions, multi channel audio, etc) I did research on this unit for a couple of weeks, found a long thread on an Android forum, haven't decided if I'm gonna root it yet.One of my buddies mentioned the Teslas too when I sent him the pics.
Hot spotting with my phone for now. Was using my Note 2 for navigation and such, and hot spotting with my new phone until I got a charging holder for it. But since they haven't come out with a charging holder yet, I can skip that step. They do offer a sim card dongle that you can plug into one of the 3 USB ports, but the reviews weren't that great.
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- Jul 22, 2015
- Posts
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I've been looking for an Android Auto-compatible HU for a couple of weeks now (but from one of the 'brand' names). Want something under $250 if possible; I think I paid about that for my Pio AVH-3600 (?) a couple of years ago (which I just swapped to the Sierra.) But the new AA-enabled decks are crazy expensive. So this might be an option for me.
I don't need much - rear cam for hooking up the trailer, and Google maps for getting said trailer to the next destination. I can even do mechless if needed. And a double-DIN sized screen is fine. Suggestions welcome
I don't need much - rear cam for hooking up the trailer, and Google maps for getting said trailer to the next destination. I can even do mechless if needed. And a double-DIN sized screen is fine. Suggestions welcome
I was in a similar boat. This is the first non-Pioneer HU I've bought. The Android Auto stuff just didn't seem like it was going to give me what I wanted, the way I wanted it. I looked into some of the Joying Android HUs when @xavierny25 posted about them a while back, but the ones I had saved went out of stock. If I would have gone with a 6 or 7" screen unit, the cost would have come down, and the ease of installation would have gone way up. Since it sounds like your needs and requirements are far less than mine, you could certainly find cheaper options (with less wiring harnesses needed too).
I realized I'll need to take the dash apart again. While removing some old components last night, I came across a loose wire with a crimped connector, and couldn't figure out what it was for. Then I noticed how in my 2nd to last pic, the steering wheel LEDs aren't lit up.
I realized I'll need to take the dash apart again. While removing some old components last night, I came across a loose wire with a crimped connector, and couldn't figure out what it was for. Then I noticed how in my 2nd to last pic, the steering wheel LEDs aren't lit up.