How to pull front shafts

[coolride]

How do I pull this axle? Any help appreciated. (Driver's side)

I've tried:

5lb pull hammer (nope)
Pry bar (nope)
Pipe and 2.5lb sledge (nope)

What am I missing?

 

[TollKeeper]

Out of the Diff?

I got behind it with a jack handle, and while maintaining pressure on it, hit the handle until I saw the axle moved. While still maintaining pressure, pulled the axle out.

 

[coolride]

Yeah, removing it from the diff.

So, you got behind it how exactly?

Did you use the handle like a punch, and just hammer the axle out from the back

 

[TollKeeper]

From underneath, between the gap inbetween the diff and the frame.

Yeap, pretty much just like a punch

Its either that, or see if you can locate a CV Axle removal tool. But at 100 bucks or so...

Cheapest one I can find, and I dont know how well it works.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FD2HXBT/?tag=gmtnation-20

 

[coolride]

I borrowed that exact thing from Auto Zone. Not having luck with it.

 

[TollKeeper]

I think the same rule applies with them, as I mentioned above, you have to maintain constant pressure thru the hole process, which isnt always easy, especially when dealing with a slide hammer.

 

[Mooseman]

This video shows how to use a punch or drift and a sledge hammer. He also uses a large pickle fork but maybe a smaller one for balljoints or a large chisel punch might work for putting pressure on it. I've never had to do that, only hitting it from behind worked for me.

Video is already cued to relevant spot.

 

[Reprise]

The easiest way is to hit the metal area of the tripot from behind. I'm doing this right now on my own truck. Here's a pic of the P/S area where you want to drive (use a long pry bar, flat screwdriver, what have you, as long as it's sturdy). The D/S will be similar. It's just a internal c-clip on the shaft that holds it in.


The red arrow shows the best place (basically, at the bottom). Turn the axle as needed, to give the entire circumference a whack or two. Use the BFH.
(note that this pic shows the axle *after* it has been driven free of the diff (or, in this case, the P/S disconnect)

 

[Mektek]

I had success with the borrowed cv axle puller attachment to the five pound slide hammer. It was difficult because the shaft of the slide hammer is too short for this application. Also the five pounds is barely enough - I think seven pounds would be better.

 

[6716]

I struggled until I had a helper pull on the end while I banged on the tripot.

 

[TollKeeper]

I can tell you what I did (last night) with complete success.

I left the CV Axle connected to the spindle, and after removing the brake caliper, and getting it hanging in a safe spot, getting the ABS wire disconnected and out of the way, and knocking out the Tie Rod End, I removed the top ball joint nut, and got it out of the UCA. This is with the nut loose, but still attached to the cv axle end on the spindle side. So after you do all this, the will cause the assembly (Spindle, CV Axle end, Brake Rotor, and spindle mount) to rotate outward on the lower ball joint, and pull on the inner cv axle.

I then got behind the inside CV axle tri-pot, and hit it with a jack handle and hammer. It popped right out.

 

[Mooseman]

Added this thread to the Drivetrain FAQ. Lots of good info here.

One method I also discovered, because I didn't feel like disconnecting a balljoint, was to remove the bearing hub after removing the brakes. I can change a hub in 30 minutes flat so this is a good option.

 

[coolride]

Day off from work. Headed to Lowe's and planning to pick up some chain.

I'll loop it around the back of the axle and then connect it to the slide hammer.

Because this slide hammer is just too short. The strut is in the way.

Nylon webbing strap might work too. Tie it around the tri-pot and then loop the other end around my back (pull the axle out with leg power.)

 

[coolride]

Chain was a decent enough idea, but the nylon webbing idea didn't half suck. So before I ran to Lowe's for new stuff, I gave the straps a try.

I have a pile of this stuff.


With a few wraps, It held tight around the back of the axle. Out and around the strut,,,then I started to ratchet in the slack. This really did hold a lot of tension.


At this stage, I rolled under the TB and hammered. The axle wasn't moving though. I added a few wedges between the pipe and the frame, this held the pipe in position so that I could hammer with both hands.


Maybe the strap put too much sideways pressure on the axle, and that prevented it from releasing. I removed the strap and went back to just hammering.

I jumped up in hammer size from 2.5 to 4 lbs. The wedges held the pipe better than I could, and I went crazy whaling on it. SUCCESS!


I'm guessing that a 4 lbs hammer is the minimum. 5 lbs would be better. And the wedges (did a great job.)

 

[coolride]

It a Gatorade cap that fit's in the diff opening?

 

[Mooseman]

Yessir.

 

[coolride]

What do you think...Replace the seal while I'm in here? What about the bearing?

 

[Mooseman]

Um, yeah. It has chunks missing. If the bearing looks fine, don't bother with it. You should also pull the disconnect and check for leakage from the inner seal. Not a bad idea to also take the disconnect apart, check for wear, clean and repack with grease along with some new seals.

 

[coolride]

Can anyone confirm this is the correct part number for the seal?

ACDelco 19340249​

For some reason I'm having trouble with this.

 

[TollKeeper]

This is what I found for my 06..

My new to me 2006 9-7x 5.3 rebuild

I put my truck up on ramps, and took a look... I also watched a lot of YouTube videos, and nary a single one deals with a v8... I found one, but the video stops early in disassembly, and he never finishes it. Every other video deals with the I6. Which as we all know is a completely different...

gmtnation.com

 

[TollKeeper]

Can anyone confirm this is the correct part number for the seal?

ACDelco 19340249​

For some reason I'm having trouble with this.

That appears to be a crank shaft seal

 

[Mooseman]

I think I found it. Online GM microfiches show full size truck front diffs and most part numbers discontinued and RA has some of them in the brake and wheel hub section and others in the front diff section.

2006 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER 4.2L L6 Wheel Seal | Shop Now at RockAuto

Brake & Wheel Hub Parts and More for Your 2006 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

Had to cross reference between RA and GMPD. Seems to be 19257296 and confirmed by GMPD according to the description.

2002-2009 GM Front Driver Side CV Axle Half Shaft Seal 19257296 GM | GMPartsDirect.com

2002-2009 GM part # 19257296 - Front Driver Side CV Axle Half Shaft Seal

www.gmpartsdirect.com

 

[coolride]

Found one at my local Buick dealership (thank you guys!) Check out the turkey in the lower left corner; that's how you know it's real.

 

[coolride]

Should I buy a seal installation tool?

 

[Mooseman]

Nah, a piece of wood and hammer will work.

 

[Reprise]

Nah, a piece of wood and hammer will work.

Seconded. I picked up a seal driver kit from HF on closeout a few mos ago, and finally used it on my trans tailpiece seal on the Sierra a few weeks back.

Even with dedicated tool, and workpiece out of the vehicle, I *still* had to finish the new seal off with a couple of extra taps w/o the driver.

Spend the money on a seal puller, if you don't have one. Those are actually helpful / time saving / damage-sparing.

Wood is cheap & effective. ;-)

 

[coolride]

Just bought a new seal puller.

 

[Brian K]

At 170K miles, I just changed both CV axles because PS outboard rubber boot cracked and grease was being sprayed out on the suspension so it was time. I watched the A1Auto video on YT and a few others. I did what they showed and knocked it out with a crowbar and a hammer. Got the crowbar positioned near the inside joint and with a swift smack it popped out. Came out pretty easy. One thing I did differently than most videos showed to actually remove the CV axle was to remove the bearing. This provided more room to wiggle the axle out and not damage the seals (hopefully). Installation was trickier than mentioned - it took a long time of putting it in and not sliding right in because I don't think the splines were aligned properly. Once aligned, it did just slid in. At first I tried hammering it (gently), pushing it in with the suspension, etc but nothing worked other than insert/remove/twist repeat lots. Glad to have it done now and things seem quieter now.

 

[TollKeeper]

So I watched a video recently on someone working on a v8 Denali. For removing the CV axles, he removed the outside axle nut, and verified that it was loose in the hub splines, but left it completely in there. He then did what I did above, about the ABS wire and brake hose making it so they have enough slack. Then he removed the upper bolt joint capture nut, and let the spindle balance on the lower ball joint.

I then popped the inner CV axle tri-pot out, and completely removed it from the diff. Then pulled it out of the hub.

The end in the differential is shorter than the hub, so it can be done this way. Had much success doing it this way on my Envoy.

Hope that makes sense.

 

[Sqrly]

My driver side seal just started leaking so I came here to find out if there was anything special about the axle.

I see there is not. I've done front axles before. You can't just pull them out, they need impact or sudden force, got to "pop" them out.

I just cleaned up down there and put a diaper on it for now to keep it from dripping in the driveway. I haven't replaced the lower bushings yet so I'll just wait and do it when I do those.