"Hoping... For Loping..."

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Almost as soon as I got my recently acquired 2000 Chevrolet Silverado parked out there in my driveway… I took the first opportunity to look over the engine compartment for the possibility of having more space to work around I than I was used to seeing with the 2002 TB. Then I had to do my homework and find out more about the history and layout of the 4.6L, 5.3L, 6.0L LS1 Engines… so I ‘Hit the Books’ using the two new shop manuals I have from Chilton and Haynes covering the 1999-2006 Full Size GM Pick Ups and then I watched quite a few Youtube Videos from “The Sloppy Mechanic” series and many others on the Camshaft and Valve Springs R&Rs and Tear-Downs of numerous Old LS Motors. I honestly had no idea how spacious and accessible the two Exhaust Manifolds and Engine Heads on the 5.3L Engine under the hoods of these larger trucks really are!

And now the idea of being able to change out a Camshaft without having to R&R the Intake Manifold or disturb the Heads is making me crazy to want to make some immediate upgrades with say… A Low-Lift, Low LSA (112? 114?) Camshaft/Valve Springs and some Shorty S/S Header Upgrades that will give my motor a “Slight Lope at Idle” and neither require any immediate Tuning Changes to the PCM to run in general… nor having to inSTALL a 2800-3000 RPM Higher Stall Torque Converter to keep it from crapping out when the Traffic Lights Turn Green. All I want to do is to drive this nice looking, Indigo Blue Pick Up Truck with a V8 motor around the CID size of “The Ol’ Chevy 327” ...making a Nice Lope at Idle, with a little Performance Bump up front so I can go to and from Walgreen’s… or perhaps to Walmart and back… and occasionally to the Gas Station and just enjoy myself for a change by simply getting to drive something that I really, really like.

Never having had a GM LS V8 Engine with a Valve Train and Rocker Arm Assembly that are both accessible and serviceable with equal ease… I determined that they also lend themselves to being greatly upgraded with a simple, $100 Trunnion and Caged Needle Bearing Kit to improve what is probably the only serious Achilles Heel laying in wait up inside the Top End of these Engines. Each one of these OEM Rocker Arms contains 33 Unrestrained Needle bearings that can wreak havoc if allowed to come apart at any RPM and become distributed throughout the interior of these engines. But… Anybody with a “Bean” and a Bench Vise or a Small Arbor Press from HF and armed with some Common Sense can completely eliminate this very real threat in very short order and forever with a Kit that will ensure smooth Rocker Arm Action ...all the way up to 1,000 Horse Power:

… This is What the Kit Looks Like:

51WG3IdP3WL.jpg


… This is Where to get it:

https://www.amazon.com/Michigan-Motorsports-Rocker-Arm-Trunion/dp/B075X5PQHN/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522688142&sr=8-1&keywords=ls+motor+trunnion

… This is a Comparison with the OEM Version on How to Rebuild them with an AMK covering the CompCam Kit from Summit:


As for the Camshaft and requisite Valve Spring Upgrade… Melling has come out with Two Cam and Valve Spring Kits that will not only provide a substantial bump in HP with a nice Lope at Idle… These do NOT require getting the PCM Tuned… Nor having to upgrade or replace the Torque Converter… although getting the Tune for the wider Air to Fuel Ratios and changing the Transmission Shift issues at the adjusted RPM levels would make sense. But if I do make these Mechanical Changes and I manage to ‘Get My Lope On...” and it drives me around the block and the neighborhood in good stead… I’ll be fine with that, too. Here is “George from Melling...” introducing these two Mild Performance Camshaft Kits (CS-MTC-7 and CS-MTC-8):


… And this is What the MTC-8 Camshaft Sounds Like… Loping at Idle in 2006 Sierra with a 4.8L LS Engine:


...Same Truck… Different viewing and listening angle:


Last but not least are… The Shorty Headers:

I keep seeing the Stainless Steel versions that run between $100-$200 on Amazon and eBay with varying looks and quality and some sketchy incompletion of the TIG Welding on many. When I can find one that has Quality S/S with Thick Head Flanges and completely circumferential Welds around the Primary Tubes… THAT will be the one I buy. But… I’m not interested in paying $450.00 for these Pipes… so only a Happy Compromise in the Price Range vs. Quality will make it happen.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
I dunno if the self destruction of those rocker bearings is blown out of proportions because only people that have had problems with them, mostly those that modify their engines, talk about it, which would make it sound like they are failure prone. We don't hear from those that have run their vehicles for +200k miles without a single issue with them. However, thanks for pointing me to those on Amazon. I can get them from Amazon.ca at a comparable cost delivered to my door. This will be useful for my L77 '11 Caprice PPV that I do plan on camming.

I have heard that Comp. Cams' version is garbage if you happen to come across it. And I'd also be weary of those that use bronze bushings as they will wear down over time. I like the idea of captured bearings. I can't seem to find a lot of reviews on them though.
 
OP
OP
MRRSM

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
You're Welcome, @Mooseman... Anytime... Ordinarily, I wouldn't pull a hair with worrying about the Needle Bearings coming loose in those OEM Roller Rocker Trunnions... but they do look to have a weakness. Being as superstitious as I am about Engine Mods and knowing that I could've easily performed this R&R at the same time I'm replacing those Old LS1-LM7 Valve Springs with the New "LS6 OEM Style" Quality Valve Springs that comes with the Melling CS-MTC-8 Performance Camshaft Kit... I'd be kicking myself in (6) Months for not doing so when I had the chance if anything were to 'head' sideways in the Top End. I realize that my (18) Year Old Truck does have "Youthful Mileage" at only 72,654 Miles... but why Tempt The Fates? Besides that... Right Now...The Price is Right.

Just as an added FYI... Both Summit and Powerhouse Tools do sell Specialty Trunnion R&R Tool Kits that run between $36 and $50 ... and if it means making this transition much easier and whole lot more orderly with so many parts and pieces to pay attention to during these R&R procedures, it just might be worth the $$$. Have a look at how Cool this Powerhouse Tools LS Rocker Arm Trunnion Tool 54702-TL works:

 
Last edited:

m.mcmillen

Gold Supporter
I'm not saying that they never cause problems but, I have 20 vehicles with a 6.0 engine and I've never had a single problem with a rocker arm. The mileage on these engines range from 60,000 miles to 250,000 miles. Most have 150,000+

The higher mileage ones have been starting to throw a random misfire code. I found that if check the misfire counters and then change the valve springs on the higher numbered ones and then do a cam/crank relearn, the problem goes away. If I was doing the work for someone I would change all of the springs but, it is fleet work and the higher mileage vehicles probably won't be around much longer.

Enjoy your truck!
 

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
I'm not saying that they never cause problems but, I have 20 vehicles with a 6.0 engine and I've never had a single problem with a rocker arm. The mileage on these engines range from 60,000 miles to 250,000 miles. Most have 150,000+

The higher mileage ones have been starting to throw a random misfire code. I found that if check the misfire counters and then change the valve springs on the higher numbered ones and then do a cam/crank relearn, the problem goes away. If I was doing the work for someone I would change all of the springs but, it is fleet work and the higher mileage vehicles probably won't be around much longer.

Enjoy your truck!
The 2500HD has been treated as an on off switch for the last 210k. No problems to report yet. I do understand the worry though.
 
OP
OP
MRRSM

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Of course... There doesn't seem to be very much in the way of empirical evidence to support my desire to just apply this repair... but my roots as a Military Mechanic and SAR Crewman go way back to 1970-1974 while being an Aviation Machinist's Mate in the USCG. On one scary occasion... I was having to write up a "UR" (Unsatisfactory Report) while inspecting the Five Blade Tail Rotor of one of our four Sikorsky HH3F Helicopters. While performing some 25-50 Hour Scheduled Maintenance on the Tail Rotor Spindle Turnbuckle Bearings-To- inserts measurements of this Bird... and even though it was Safety Wired in place... I was able to pull it completely free from its socket of one of the Blades. So I learned very early on with experiences like this ...to always Look Deeper and thereby... NOT suffer from any Failures of Imagination.

Consider it this way... At an idle of just 600 RPM... each Roller-Rocker in the LS Engine is actuating up and down at a rate of 5 Times Per Second. But at 6,000 RPM ... that translates to being 50 Times Per Second for each of the (16) Roller- Rockers with Grand Total of (1,056) Un-Captured Needle Bearings nested inside of all (16) Roller-Rockers...with a Known History of Failure in GM's OEM Trunnion Design. So if doing this Trunnion R&R completely eliminates this problem.. .AND ... perhaps even gives more rotational stability to the Valve Train via Smoothly Turning Roller-Rocker Arms... Then I'm good with that idea.

Oh... and about that 'Dearth of Evidence' on this subject... Check out what happened to THIS young man... who mentioned very early on his Multi-Part 500 HP "Budget" LS Engine Building Series... "I was thinking about replacing the Rocker Arm Trunnions using an Upgrade Kit... but right now I'm spending the Money on other parts...":.. Watch what happened to HIM. In the First Film...Speed Dial to 7:10 for the, "THIS CAN'T BE HAPPENING...!" In the Second Film... around 4:20 for the, "OH YES... IT CAN HAPPEN"...and in the Third Film it shows from their struggles and the amount of time they had to spend on the Trunnion Kit Upgrade as to WHY Using THE REAL Trunnion Tool is a Very Good Idea for doing this R&R:



 
Last edited:
OP
OP
MRRSM

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
I've finally decided to “Stop Moping… or Hoping for Loping”...and begin acquiring what I will need to actually accomplish this project before it comes time for me to Take A Dirt Nap. I think I've found a Better Deal on the LS Engine Full Trunnion Bearing Upgrade Kit than the one mentioned previously in this link below:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075X5PQHN/?tag=elightbars-20

I checked around on eBay and found a Vendor that has sold almost 800 of these Trunnion Upgrade Kits for around $90.00 with Free S&H. I also I note that this Kit from "ZZPerformance" has the New, Larger Spring Steel Retaining Clips Upgrade that should prove sturdier and more to the liking of their Customers. I just became one of them… and while ordering the Kit… I also purchased the last available low cost LS Engine Push Rod Kit made by Elgin from "classicenginesupply" as well.

This what I picked up instead… from eBay:
RRTRUNNIONKITPLUSPUSHRODS.png


#1 on the Runway next will probably be looking closely at the Texas Speed Stage 2 Low Lift 212/218, .550"/.550" 112 LSA Camshaft Kit that will … L^^o^^^p^^e along... Just Enough … without demanding any change to a Higher Stall Torque Converter and have a set up that will be interesting to drive and listen to… and still have the Motor behave itself on the Street.

TEXASPEEDTSPCAMVIAMMS.jpg

https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/camshaft-texas-speed/texas-speed-tsp-stage-2-low-lift-truck-camshaft-kit-includes-spring-set-and-gasket-kit/

This is how the Cam performs on the Dyno (Modified Intake and Headers NOT installed on my LS):

TEXASPEEDTSPCAM.jpg


And THIS is how it sounds when at Idle inside of the smaller 4.8L Engine:

 
Last edited:

Mounce

Well-Known Member
Speaking of, saw this at work a couple years ago out of an avalanche. Was high mileage 200+ iirc. Customer was well aware and was hoping for this outcome after having it repaired. Magnetic plug ftw.

20170812_135239-1.jpg
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Missed the start of this thread...but since it looks like we're going to have similar projects, I'll chime in from my end...

I'm going to swap out the bumpstick in my 6.0L, with a tow cam. But I'm going to freshen up a few other things along the way, as I've got over 3x the mileage on your 'cream puff' (at 72K, that motor qualifies!)

I'll keep things on the 'brief' side (for me), as I'm going to be running my own thread. No, we won't be in a race to see who gets done first - I'm busy with other stuff the next 2-3 weeks. But I did get my trailer back from the dealer & back in storage - so I can finally start my 'summer project' and have it ready for the fall. And before I start any of that, I need to drain the oil and have it analyzed (see my earlier post on how I found the oil plug a couple months ago) - I'm not going to sink $$$$ into a motor that is showing excess wear on the bottom end.

I'm going to do cam / lifters / springs, and since that means pulling the heads, I found a set of 317s (stock 6.0 head) that had been rebuilt w/ a 3-angle valve job, for $280. Explored swapping to 243s, 799s, or even 706s, but after speaking to a couple of people, decided to stick with the stockers. That'll keep compression low, allow me to not worry about octane requirements, and, should I decide I want...er...'need' more...lol...I'll be in a good spot for boost. Stock height head gaskets, too.

Originally, I was going to also go with a TSP cam - 212/218, .550 lift, 114 LSA. I've since decided to go with a Comp 'XFI Xtreme Truck' model (206/212 @ 50 .513..520 lift 115 lsa with +4 advance). Springs will be the GM LS6 'blues', just like you're doing. Those are good to .550

Before I order the cam, however, I'm going to remove the old one. Why? Because I have a sneaking suspicion that it may have been 'upgraded', already. Just a hunch, based on the difference in 'feel' between my old Sierra and this one.

When I contacted TSP, they advised that a tune was going to be required - so don't be surprised if you have to go the same route.

I can reuse stock pushrods, but will get a set of CrMo in stock 7.400 I may also get the pushrod length checker, just for peace of mind. I haven't yet decided on lifters - I'll either go with the GM LS6 versions, or Comp's version of the same thing. I'll also put new lifter trays in.

The nice thing about the LS valvetrain is that lash is 'automatic' - a far cry from when I did a head swap in my SBC-equipped '75 Camaro, many many years ago.

Yes, I'm going to install a trunnion kit - as @Mounce 's photo shows, the bearings can be an issue even in a stock motor. Brian Tooley Racing has a nice video on YT on how to replace them, and it turns out his pricing is pretty aggressive, too - so I may go with his offering.

Bolts will be ARP - yeah, they're a little pricey, compared to the OEM, but I expect to be able to avoid 'torque + degree' tightening on both the head & crank bolts. They're also reusable, should I ever need to go in again.

Since you're not replacing lifters, be careful when removing the cam - make sure you spin that thing around a few rotations to seat the lifters in the trays before putting your retainers in. The last thing you want to hear is the 'clink' of one of them dropping down into the windage tray.

As I'll be removing the timing set, I'll replace with an LS2 chain, and depending on any observed wear, the gearset. You don't 'have' to remove the oil pump, but it sure makes it easier to do so. I'll put in a Melling HP/HV model. Since I'm that far, there's a good chance I'll pull the oil pan and replace the gasket on that, as well. Same for the oil cooler gasket, since they're so prone to leakage.

As for headers...I've been considering the 'shorty' ones, too - but supposedly, they don't improve things that much over the stock manifolds. Found out a few weeks ago that due to GVWR of my truck, that it's exempt from emissions testing. That opens up a lot of other possibilities for me (although I still want to use cats). For now, I'm going to keep things 'as-is' WRT exhaust, and re-evaluate once I get everything done.

And to top everything off, I'll finally get to install the TBSS intake that I originally got for the Envoy. I have the throttle body for it, as well, but may run the stock one, with an adapter.
 

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
Missed the start of this thread...but since it looks like we're going to have similar projects, I'll chime in from my end...

I'm going to swap out the bumpstick in my 6.0L, with a tow cam. But I'm going to freshen up a few other things along the way, as I've got over 3x the mileage on your 'cream puff' (at 72K, that motor qualifies!)

I'll keep things on the 'brief' side (for me), as I'm going to be running my own thread. No, we won't be in a race to see who gets done first - I'm busy with other stuff the next 2-3 weeks. But I did get my trailer back from the dealer & back in storage - so I can finally start my 'summer project' and have it ready for the fall. And before I start any of that, I need to drain the oil and have it analyzed (see my earlier post on how I found the oil plug a couple months ago) - I'm not going to sink $$$$ into a motor that is showing excess wear on the bottom end.

I'm going to do cam / lifters / springs, and since that means pulling the heads, I found a set of 317s (stock 6.0 head) that had been rebuilt w/ a 3-angle valve job, for $280. Explored swapping to 243s, 799s, or even 706s, but after speaking to a couple of people, decided to stick with the stockers. That'll keep compression low, allow me to not worry about octane requirements, and, should I decide I want...er...'need' more...lol...I'll be in a good spot for boost. Stock height head gaskets, too.

Originally, I was going to also go with a TSP cam - 212/218, .550 lift, 114 LSA. I've since decided to go with a Comp 'XFI Xtreme Truck' model (206/212 @ 50 .513..520 lift 115 lsa with +4 advance). Springs will be the GM LS6 'blues', just like you're doing. Those are good to .550

Before I order the cam, however, I'm going to remove the old one. Why? Because I have a sneaking suspicion that it may have been 'upgraded', already. Just a hunch, based on the difference in 'feel' between my old Sierra and this one.

When I contacted TSP, they advised that a tune was going to be required - so don't be surprised if you have to go the same route.

I can reuse stock pushrods, but will get a set of CrMo in stock 7.400 I may also get the pushrod length checker, just for peace of mind. I haven't yet decided on lifters - I'll either go with the GM LS6 versions, or Comp's version of the same thing. I'll also put new lifter trays in.

The nice thing about the LS valvetrain is that lash is 'automatic' - a far cry from when I did a head swap in my SBC-equipped '75 Camaro, many many years ago.

Yes, I'm going to install a trunnion kit - as @Mounce 's photo shows, the bearings can be an issue even in a stock motor. Brian Tooley Racing has a nice video on YT on how to replace them, and it turns out his pricing is pretty aggressive, too - so I may go with his offering.

Bolts will be ARP - yeah, they're a little pricey, compared to the OEM, but I expect to be able to avoid 'torque + degree' tightening on both the head & crank bolts. They're also reusable, should I ever need to go in again.

Since you're not replacing lifters, be careful when removing the cam - make sure you spin that thing around a few rotations to seat the lifters in the trays before putting your retainers in. The last thing you want to hear is the 'clink' of one of them dropping down into the windage tray.

As I'll be removing the timing set, I'll replace with an LS2 chain, and depending on any observed wear, the gearset. You don't 'have' to remove the oil pump, but it sure makes it easier to do so. I'll put in a Melling HP/HV model. Since I'm that far, there's a good chance I'll pull the oil pan and replace the gasket on that, as well. Same for the oil cooler gasket, since they're so prone to leakage.

As for headers...I've been considering the 'shorty' ones, too - but supposedly, they don't improve things that much over the stock manifolds. Found out a few weeks ago that due to GVWR of my truck, that it's exempt from emissions testing. That opens up a lot of other possibilities for me (although I still want to use cats). For now, I'm going to keep things 'as-is' WRT exhaust, and re-evaluate once I get everything done.

And to top everything off, I'll finally get to install the TBSS intake that I originally got for the Envoy. I have the throttle body for it, as well, but may run the stock one, with an adapter.
I was going to say to get something a little better than the beehives, then noticed the cam you were planning on running... They don't like the 224/230 in the red truck much above 5800 but with a mild cam are more than enough. :cool:
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
I was going to say to get something a little better than the beehives, then noticed the cam you were planning on running... They don't like the 224/230 in the red truck much above 5800 but with a mild cam are more than enough. :cool:
Yep - it's a 'low lift'. Emphasis on the grunt, not on the HP :smile:
 

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
Yep - it's a 'low lift'. Emphasis on the grunt, not on the HP :smile:
Oh its got grunt... That's why the 4l80e grenaded yesterday. :laugh: You did it right, heads and intake dictated the correct cam to use, that should be matched up very well imo.

Edit: I always wondered why it cranked as slow as it does... as it turns out, cranking compression on the thing is like 185 psi. It's pretty wild actually.
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Hmm...that's funny - mine fires right up almost instantly, once I put the new battery in. The old 6.0 I had would crank for a second or so (w/ new battery as well).

I know I've got good compression/ power (just not 'how' much).

Sorry to @MRRSM for hijacking his thead)
 
OP
OP
MRRSM

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Hi-Jack away, Brother... TMCK... (To My Certain Knowledge) You're the only other presently posting Member who can Take The Heat Off of ME for being so Damned 'Long in The Tooth' when trying to write in as much relevant 'On Topic Detail' as possible. Besides my closely watching Videos of On Topic Stuff... the only other way I can improve my understanding is to Read As Much As I Can of The Thread from our GMTN... as I do like learning so very much while appreciating what they do as well. My fervent hope is that since you actually USE your Truck for its intended purposes... that you will Beat me to the Project Finish Line...by at LEAST 10 Trailer Lengths. :>)

About the need to use a Push-Rod Length Tool: The only reason you would need to do that is if the Base Circle on your New Camshaft turns out to be different from the OEM 'Stock-As-A-Clock' version. Otherwise, the Stock Length Chrome-Moly Steel Push-Rods should be able to handle all that "Push and Squeeze" just fine.

You are right about my truck as being that Rare Bird that was "Gently Handled" over the past (19) Years. The proof comes from what I just noticed as a Transmission Service Sticker on the Left Front under-hood area yesterday that read:

30,642 Miles.... Changed Transmission Fluid & Filter 05/2006.

I had to think about that for a minute... By that First (6) Year Metric... On average... the Previous Owner drove the vehicle less than (14) Miles Per Day. But even more astonishing is that for the balance of the (12) years that he covered an additional 42,225 Miles right up until I bought it just over a year ago... his Daily Driving Mileage only amounted to being around (9.6) Miles Per Day. Hell... I just about put that much mileage on my Cane walking to and from the mail-Box each afternoon!

So all of that information would strongly indicate why the Truck drives so nice and strong... and also why making any performance changes to my "Y2K Silverado" (AKA Double Aught...00) makes very good sense. Presently, the truck is NOT a DD... and represents more of a Sweet Mechanical Plaything for an Old Man whose pulse still quickens at the sound of even a Slightly Radical Cam inside of ANY Chevrolet Engine. This work is strictly meant to pique my need for some 'Vanity Performance' and I just want that to feel that same rumbling, staccato sensation happening under the hood of My Truck and in the seat of my pants as I Step On The Gas.

One other consideration for those considering installing the High Lift Cams at or above .550 is that the Stronger Dual Springs undergo MUCH more stress and actually demand full replacement at between 10-15,000 Miles. Otherwise... you can look for them to work harden early and begin fracturing.


As for any required Tune... I may as well pick up another PCM if I can locate one and work out the Cam Card Profile and RPO Data for a "Tune Sheet" and figure out who can best "Put The Music to the Motor" with a New Tune if necessary. I'll be honest with everybody... If I had to Pull the Transmission to Swap in a Higher Stall Torque Converter... I would Shine this Project On... and let the whole notion pass me by. FWIW... Staying in the "Low Lift" arena for any DD Performance Camshaft and Valve Spring Upgrade in our Trucks might make a whole lot of sense to more owners if they completely realize all of the "unintended consequences" that come right along of doing this kind of upgrade work...in the Extreme.
 
Last edited:

Mooseman

Moderator
You're the only other presently posting Member who can Take The Heat Off of ME for being so 'long in the tooth' when trying to write in as much 'On Topic Detail' as possible.
You're both replying to each other??? We're gonna have to increase server storage space! :laugh:
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
You're both replying to each other??? We're gonna have to increase server storage space! :laugh:
Hey! I resemble that remark! :laugh:

Chalk it up to both of us being intellectually curious, I suppose.

At least I kept my pics off the server this afternoon - which reminds me...I need to xfr, resize and upload them. 'Cos my '03 and the OP's '05 from the other thread are two different animals.
 
OP
OP
MRRSM

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Okay... while awaiting the arrival of the GM 5.3L Trunnion Upgrade Kit... I was pondering the fact that in the absence of having (16) GM OEM Roller Rocker Arms... that would mean that I'd have to wait until I pulled them off of both of my LM7 Engine Heads and have everything opened up and undone while going through the process of taking each (8) Roller Rocker Set Bank completely apart... then cleaning all (16) RRs individually down to Bare Metal and THEN installing the New Bearings and Trunnions, etc.

So instead... I decided to "Plow The Field" ahead of time over at eBay looking for an appropriate Used Set of GM 5.3L RR's since "You Can't Make Bricks ...Without Straw..." and I found just a few sets still available that were reasonably priced at around $65.00 with Free S&H. I pulled the trigger on the cleanest and most complete set I could locate that included the Racks and the Push-Rods as well. When these get here... I can let them take a nice, leisurely Deep Soak in a Fresh Bucket of Berryman's Carb Cleaner after disassembly of the' Rocker Racks' and then re-assemble them, piece by piece, whenever I feel like it as I continue acquiring the requisite necessary components for this Project.

I'm still debating whether or not to order the Trunnion Kit Rebuild Tool I mentioned quite a few posts back along with the showing the Videos from either CompCam or from Summit Racing as to how that tool works. I'd actually rather use something like THAT instead of having to play around while using Sketchy Fitting Sockets along with one of my New Drill Press Vises to "Put The Squeeze" on the Old GM Trunnion Caps to press them out and get rid of all that Old Hardware. Likewise... When I'm ready... I can install the New Ones correctly inside of each Roller Rocker.,, and STILL be driving my "Y2K Silverado". These images show what's coming from eBay:

OLDROLLEROCKERS1.pngOLDROLLEROCKERS2.jpgOLDROLLEROCKERS3.jpg

@reprise… You will definitely need to consider getting this CompCam ‘Fast Flash Tuner” Part #170327 to be able to make necessary performance adjustments designed specifically for the GM Later Model V-8s. This PDF explains all of what it can do...and while I’m thinking about it… THIS featured Flasher might turn my head towards getting a CompCam Camshaft Kit… IF … They sell one that does NOT require installing a Performance Torque Converter as well. Otherwise … I’ll still be taking my chances with the TSP 212/218 Flavor Cam Kit.

You might want to Download and Keep this On Topic Document... and I'd like to call special attention of this Read to @Blckshdw ...as he had a Thread a few years back that discussed adjusting the PCM for Tire Size Increases that "Skewed & Screwed" the behavior of the Speedometer. THIS thing looks like it can address those issues over a very wide range of Tire Heights ...and it does it in 1/4" Increments!:

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/170327.pdf

Food For Thought...

This Later Model CompCam Fast-Flash Part # 170382 GM PCM Flasher is available from Colorado Speed at a Substantially Reduced Price:

https://www.coloradospeed.com/pcm-tuning-c-2902_1916_2217/fast-flash-power-programmer-p-3714.html

...and another for even a bit less:


..and this one is being offered from an eBay Vendor in “The Land Down Under” for substantially less Money in U.S. Dollars as well... But I cannot swear that it will perform as advertised in the PDF like the Model # 170327 shown therein. THIS flavor is about $100.00 Cheaper… But Australia is one Helluva Ways Off if you need to make any Returns… :>)

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&toolid=10001&campid=5338077216&icep_item=252274363888
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
MRRSM

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
As per the Comp-Cam Video in Post #3... I pulled the trigger at Amazon tonight and purchased the Powerhouse Model # 5407-TLLS Trunnion R&R Tool... On Sale for $43.30 (Saved a Few Bucks...):


COMPCAMLS5407TLTRUNNIONTOOL.jpg


MUCH better than using the complicated methods used in Post #6 ...3rd Video. :>)



...and for anyone who wants a very comprehensive look at how a wide variety of CompCam Camshafts vs. Exhaust vs. Cubic Inch Displacement ( or Liters-litres ... if you prefer) compare... this Link is very edifying:

 
Last edited:
OP
OP
MRRSM

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
I thought it would make sense to “Glom” together all of the following information, since the ENTIRE process of Increasing Overall Performance really is a Nose to Tail proposition; eventually requiring that ALL of these areas be addressed:

THIS is My Favorite Cammed Y2K Silverado Flick:


And Three Other Nicely Cammed Silverados:


$150.00 OBO DPT Shorty Exhaust Manifold Header Stainless (Supposedly) Fits the 99-05 Chevy GMC Silverado Sierra:

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&toolid=10001&campid=5338077216&icep_item=110918041506

DPTSTAINLESSHEADERSWITHEGR53L.jpg

However… In Spite of having the Required EGR Port… AND Meeting THESE parameters… when checking the Year-Make-Model… eBay Red Texts the Comment… and so it raises the Most Important Question:

WILL THESE HEADERS BOLT ON MY Y2K SILVERADO 5.3L ENGINE... AND WORK PROPERLY?

REDTEXTINCOMPATIBILITYWITHY2KSILVERADO.jpg


Video of Full Size Truck 6.0l Version of Similar Shorty Headers being Installed:


Best Videos for the R&R of New Camshaft Swap and the R&R of New Valve Springs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMpO258Fw5s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odpNeFYKcvc

Best Image of the Procedures (Option B) for Finding TDC on TWO Cylinders at a Time to perform the Safest 4.8L,5.3L, 6.0L Valve Springs R&R:

HOW2SETDC4VALVESPRINGREPLACEMENTBEST.jpg

Elgin PR-614S Stock Push Rods can be found via THIS Catalog:

http://www.elginind.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Elgin-2018-LSEngine-8pg-Brochure.pdf

Here is a Silverado with the Stock 5.3L Engine, Stock Cats, Stock Resonator AND a Flowmaster 44 - 1 into 2 - Dual Tail Exhaust:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fobTpzrf-Sg

But… arguably, The BEST Muffler I think will turn out to be the BORLA S/S XR-1. I think it would make a REAL Compliment after having this Guy's Silverado Cammed because it just Sounds So Damned GOOD Already!. Check out how EZ the Thing installs... and How Nice and Deep it Rumbles... without the added problem of making his Neighbors MAD.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3Uikzxf6Lw
 

Mounce

Well-Known Member
Personally I'm a fan of the cheapo muffler delete route like I've done on my truck. Sounds basically the same to me... Very similar to the last video anyways, also the only one I watched since you rated it highest lol. Close enough anyways for being the cheapest exhaust mod possible. (stock 03 LM7 with muffler delete only)

Pardon the lame videos, I'm here for sound only.



 
OP
OP
MRRSM

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
LOL ... I think you're right... Thanks for all the Vidz and Soundz. If I did the Muffler, Resonator Delete as you suggest... I could just drop in the Borla XR-1 Stainless Muffler and satisfy all the performance demands (including those of the Local Cops and 'Sound Abatement Nazis' as well...)

I think I just found the One and Only CORRECT (inexpensive, too) S/S Shortie Header Set that WILL Work on the Y2K Truck:


SHORTYSTAINLESS2.jpgSHORTYSTAINLESS3.jpgSHORTYSTAINLESS4.jpgSHORTYSTAINLESS6.jpgSHORTYSTAINLESS1.jpgSHORTYSTAINLESS5.jpg
 

Mounce

Well-Known Member
Very well could drop in the muff. Was just showing you a cheaper alternative with basically the same straight through sound. But I can understand needing at least some kind of can under there to make the officials happy.

I'm assuming you'll go cat-less y-pipe? I'll be interested to see how that sounds if so. Seems like these trucks only go so loud with the factory cats but once removed or gutted they get super raspy. (at least that's what I recall from my research over a year ago and on factory cam etc trucks)
 
OP
OP
MRRSM

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Can't go CATLess... even though presently... There are No Annual Smog Inspections in Florida... But now that I've mentioned that status out loud... The Mopes up in Tallahassee will probably Burn the Midnight Oil to change things Back to the Old Ways.... DAMN!

The actual concerns have to do with avoiding incurring family health problems... so trying to tolerate those untreated, highly noxious fumes unnecessarily is simply out of question.

If you are fortunate enough to live well into your 70s ...and beyond... you will remember discussing this subject and appreciate following an abundance of caution. Nonetheless... everything else covered so far, performance wise for upgrades, is still up for grabs. Time and Money will dictate what and how much of it can be accomplished.
 
Last edited:

littleblazer

Gold Supporter
The "mufflers" on the red truck get old after a while. (Race bullets dumped down after the cats through dual 2-3/4 pipe from the manifolds...) Something about being able to hear the truck from a mile away inside the house with the windows closed does wear on you after a while. It's still amazing but it's also nice to have a conversation with a customer without having to shut the truck off. :rotfl:
 
OP
OP
MRRSM

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Okay... Yesterday afternoon... The Trunnion Upgrade Kit arrived with VERY FAST FREE S&H... and the Shipped Parts Tally is COMPLETE and as Follows:

(16) Fully Encased "Trapped" Needle Style Roller-Bearings.
(16) Roller Bearing "Full Barrel" Trunnion Axles with Proper Center Rack Mount OEM Design.
(16) 'Grade 8' Blued Steel, Hex-Wrench Style Roller-Rocker Arm Bolts.
(16) HUGE (FAT) Blued Spring-Steel Retainer Trunnion Locking Rings.
(2) Two LARGE Assembly Washers for use during "General Assembly".


Plus.... Wait For It....

One Complete Set of Everything Mentioned Above as a Back-Up--> FREE in the Kit.

Now I'm just waiting for the Set of (16) Old Roller Rockers from my eBay purchase AND The CompCam Roller-Rocker Arm Trunnion Rebuild Tool via Amazon to arrive, so I can clean them all up in a "Berryman's B-12 Bath"... Dry them off and after wiping them all down, while I'm perfectly at my leisure... I'll assemble all of this inexpensive "Peace of Mind" using everything listed above... plus a Small Carpenter's Vise ...while I'm sitting on my couch watching TV. :>)

Bit By Bit... We'll 'Get 'er Dunn...'

By the Way... All of this Stuff collected together is Well-Made and suprisingly HEAVY as Hell! Here is what this Gear looks like while still inside of the "Protective, Oily Plastic Bags":

ROLLERROCKERUPGRADES1.jpegROLLERROCKERUPGRADES2.jpegROLLERROCKERUPGRADES4.jpegROLLERROCKERUPGRADES5.jpegROLLERROCKERUPGRADES6.jpegROLLERROCKERUPGRADES7.jpegROLLERROCKERUPGRADES8.jpegROLLERROCKERUPGRADES9.jpegROLLERROCKERUPGRADES3.jpegROLLERROCKERUPGRADES10.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Mooseman

Moderator
One Complete Set of Everything Mentioned Above as a Back-Up--> FREE in the Kit.
What??? That doesn't make any sense. You think it might be a packing error instead?
 
OP
OP
MRRSM

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Nope... The other Items were all discreetly packed within their own groups... that Last Kit contained One of Each Item (except for the Two Assembly Washers) ...and this 'One of Each Lot' arrived sealed up inside One, Smaller Plastic Bag. So apparently... they intended upon including one additiona item of everything that would be critical for completion of the R&R and I suspect ,just in case of ANY Loss or Damage by the Customer(s) to any one of these Items during assembly. In any case... It seems like a generous as well as a practical consideration from a business perspective... Don't You Think?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Oh so it's basically parts for ONE rocker rather than 16. Is there a country of origin? Ebay listing doesn't say.
 

Online statistics

Members online
13
Guests online
188
Total visitors
201

Staff online

Forum statistics

Threads
19,075
Messages
574,460
Answered questions
1
Members
11,780
Latest member
MILES-2005-4.2
Top Bottom