HILIFT jacks

Decembersend

Original poster
Member
Dec 3, 2011
316
48" HI-LIFT Jack Xtreme
Lift mate accessory

For those of you that have the HI-LIFT jack where do you place the jack to get lift up the truck. Say if you were removing a tire for any reason and need to get some sort of clearance under the tire in order to pull it off. I bought lift mate accessory and I really don't like the pressure it puts on the tire plus I almost have to lift the jack up fully to get some clearance when I set it down on jacks.
 

The_Roadie

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Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
The rock sliders, of course. Using a Wab-Fab accessory my daughter got me. Search Trailvoy for Wab-Fab.

Without rock sliders or a real bumper it was a bit premature to get a hilift for changing tires. It's an extraction device.
 

Decembersend

Original poster
Member
Dec 3, 2011
316
the roadie said:
The rock sliders, of course. Using a Wab-Fab accessory my daughter got me. Search Trailvoy for Wab-Fab.

Without rock sliders or a real bumper it was a bit premature to get a hilift for changing tires. It's an extraction device.

Well I do have an aftermarket bumper from Mike (BartonMD). When I tried to use the jack on it it leaned towards the truck almost cracking my headlights with the brush guard. As for rock sliders I may have to order some from Mike.
 

Bartonmd

Member
Nov 20, 2011
545
Decembersend said:
Well I do have an aftermarket bumper from Mike (BartonMD). When I tried to use the jack on it it leaned towards the truck almost cracking my headlights with the brush guard. As for rock sliders I may have to order some from Mike.

Hmmm... Kyle and I jack by my regular and 3" BL bumpers pretty frequently, with no issues. The frame up there does flex up a little bit, but not enough to jam anything into anything else. Maybe 3/8" or so. Does it whether I jack on the shackle mount, or under the bumper at the frame, so I know it's mostly the frame flexing.

It does cross my mind that you ground off both upper and lower frame tube ends, instead of just the top one like I told you. I told you how to use (2) 1/2" or 5/8" fender washers under the bottom part to fix it. Have you done that, yet? Without doing that, like I said, the bumper sits up higher than I had planned by about 1/4". Your actual bumper should be stronger lifting than the normal ones, because while it does have a larger moment than the regular (non-winch) bumpers, I put bridge pieces between the upper and lower mounts, so they wouldn't flex much. Like I say, though, you've got almost double the moment on the frame that my normal bumpers have, sticking out so far because of the winch mount, that it could just be that it's flexing the frame more than the standard ones do.

How far are the tubes away from the headlights, normally? I was thinking they were like 2+" away.

Did the bumper lean back and come back to normal when you took the jack off of it, or did it stay rotated back/up?

You're using the stock bolts, torqued to 100+ ft-lbs, right?

Mike

ETA: Looking at the pictures I have, I guess yours are closer to the lights than the regular bumper tubes, since they hit the top of the bumper, instead of the sides. With the mechanical relationship (small movement = large movement at the end of an arm), I could see them hitting the headlights, I guess... The other thing I happened to think of is that I've never seen one of my bumpers jacked on without a radiator skid. I'm certain that the radiator skid minimizes the frame flex, as it makes it sort of a "box" sticking out, from the IFS subframe, rather than just a couple frame rails.

Either way, I don't like jacking from the bumper. I've had the whole vehicle rock sideways off the jack, when I've done that with my truck. I find it MUCH more stable to jack from the sliders or with the wheel strap attachment.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Decembersend said:
For those of you that have the HI-LIFT jack where do you place the jack to get lift up the truck. Say if you were removing a tire for any reason and need to get some sort of clearance under the tire in order to pull it off. I bought lift mate accessory and I really don't like the pressure it puts on the tire plus I almost have to lift the jack up fully to get some clearance when I set it down on jacks.

I use the sliders or bumper, but only use the Hi-Lift offroad. It is easier to use a floorjack most times.

The pressure on the tire wont hurt it. I have had full pressure on the tire when aired down to 15 psi or so without issue.
 

jimmyjam

Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,634
i don't think they were stock bolts. if i remember correctly, mark's body lift kit had longer bolts with spacers for the bumper. i think they had to run to ace to get some shorter bolts. someone more familiar with marks kit could verify
 

Bartonmd

Member
Nov 20, 2011
545
jimmyjam said:
i don't think they were stock bolts. if i remember correctly, mark's body lift kit had longer bolts with spacers for the bumper. i think they had to run to ace to get some shorter bolts. someone more familiar with marks kit could verify

It would make sense if they were 1/2" bolts (Mark's kit uses 1/2" bolts, where the stock bolts are M14 or M12, which is closer to 5/8"), as the bumper and frame are set up for a larger bolt, and the 1/2" bolts will allow more movement of the bumper, if the pressure of tightening it doesn't hold (i.e. if it stays after you take the hack off, vs. going back to where it was).

Mike
 

jimmyjam

Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,634
i've got to hit up the junk yard here soon, i'll see if i can get him some stockers. along with a couple of suspension shims to throw underneath
 

Decembersend

Original poster
Member
Dec 3, 2011
316
Bartonmd said:
It does cross my mind that you ground off both upper and lower frame tube ends, instead of just the top one like I told you. I told you how to use (2) 1/2" or 5/8" fender washers under the bottom part to fix it. Have you done that, yet?
I haven't done that yet but I might do it this weekend.

Bartonmd said:
How far are the tubes away from the headlights, normally? I was thinking they were like 2+" away.
View attachment 21990
View attachment 21989

Bartonmd said:
Did the bumper lean back and come back to normal when you took the jack off of it, or did it stay rotated back/up?
The bumper did come back down after I backed the jack off.

Bartonmd said:
You're using the stock bolts, torqued to 100+ ft-lbs, right?
Unfourtantly they aren't the stock bolts, Just some cheapies from ACE. If Jimmy can't find the originals I will go out and buy shorter/Stronger bolts

Bartonmd said:
The other thing I happened to think of is that I've never seen one of my bumpers jacked on without a radiator skid. I'm certain that the radiator skid minimizes the frame flex, as it makes it sort of a "box" sticking out, from the IFS subframe, rather than just a couple frame rails.
Makes sense. Actually I was going to shoot you a PM and ask what it would cost for RAD skid, Oil skid, and rock sliders and possibly a back bumper

Bartonmd said:
Either way, I don't like jacking from the bumper. I've had the whole vehicle rock sideways off the jack, when I've done that with my truck. I find it MUCH more stable to jack from the sliders or with the wheel strap attachment.

I never even thought of it falling off the jack:redface::eek: Geez I'm glad you mentioned that.
 

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Decembersend

Original poster
Member
Dec 3, 2011
316
HARDTRAILZ said:
I use the sliders or bumper, but only use the Hi-Lift offroad. It is easier to use a floorjack most times.

The pressure on the tire wont hurt it. I have had full pressure on the tire when aired down to 15 psi or so without issue.

When I first bought the HI-Lift off of Amazon I was thinking it was the only jack I needed but after using it I see that it is a great tool but better well suited for offroad. I will however keep it my buddy says there are some trails in North Port, FL so I'm going to be taking my truck offroad here soon :biggrin:.

I will also be buying a Floor Jack. I just need to make sure I get one tall enough like yours, how high does your jack lift?

jimmyjam said:
I've got to hit up the junk yard here soon, i'll see if i can get him some stockers. along with a couple of suspension shims to throw underneath
Thanks Jimmy that would be great. If you wouldn't mind while your there picking up that plastic snap piece for the floor runner not quite sure whats its called. Its the piece that sits underneath the door when the door is closed. If you decide to go this weekend let me know and I'll swing up there.
 

Bartonmd

Member
Nov 20, 2011
545
Decembersend said:
I haven't done that yet but I might do it this weekend.


View attachment 8209
View attachment 8208


The bumper did come back down after I backed the jack off.


Unfourtantly they aren't the stock bolts, Just some cheapies from ACE. If Jimmy can't find the originals I will go out and buy shorter/Stronger bolts

Makes sense. Actually I was going to shoot you a PM and ask what it would cost for RAD skid, Oil skid, and rock sliders and possibly a back bumper



I never even thought of it falling off the jack:redface::eek: Geez I'm glad you mentioned that.

Not to say that it wasn't, but I really don't remember it being that close! Could be that your body is a bit forward of Kyle's, from when you did the body lift? Then again, we were trying to keep the bumper/tube as close to the corner as possible, to keep the turning radius good, offroad. Both of our bumpers (and others I've seen) come up a little bit when you jack on them, but they don't seem to tip backward, much. Then again, you've got a longer moment than we've got, being a winch bumper.

Eh, if it stayed in place, the bolt size is probably OK, but I'd put the spacers in under the frame, and pull the bumper forward all the way on the bolts, and make sure the wings are level, and tighten it down.

Yeah, shoot me a PM on that stuff...

Yep, I was trying to get my Cummins un-stuck from the mud, and when I lifted the front end up, the whole truck shifted sideways and fell of the jack. Did it on the rear, too. I put in the hitch in the rear, and the jack didn't go anywhere, but the whole truck shifted over to the point that the jack was at 45 degrees and the truck tires were back on the ground, to the side of the previous tracks. I pretty much lift by the sliders, now.

Mike
 

Decembersend

Original poster
Member
Dec 3, 2011
316
Bartonmd said:
Not to say that it wasn't, but I really don't remember it being that close! Could be that your body is a bit forward of Kyle's, from when you did the body lift? Then again, we were trying to keep the bumper/tube as close to the corner as possible, to keep the turning radius good, offroad. Both of our bumpers (and others I've seen) come up a little bit when you jack on them, but they don't seem to tip backward, much. Then again, you've got a longer moment than we've got, being a winch bumper.

Eh, if it stayed in place, the bolt size is probably OK, but I'd put the spacers in under the frame, and pull the bumper forward all the way on the bolts, and make sure the wings are level, and tighten it down.

Yeah, shoot me a PM on that stuff...

Yep, I was trying to get my Cummins un-stuck from the mud, and when I lifted the front end up, the whole truck shifted sideways and fell of the jack. Did it on the rear, too. I put in the hitch in the rear, and the jack didn't go anywhere, but the whole truck shifted over to the point that the jack was at 45 degrees and the truck tires were back on the ground, to the side of the previous tracks. I pretty much lift by the sliders, now.

Mike

Doesn't kyle have a body lift as well, I'd figured it would be the same.

It does stay in place but I may have to double nut the bolt it keeps coming loose.

PM sent

Thats scary lol I'd be afraid it would tip over or something.
 

The_Roadie

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Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Decembersend said:
Thats scary lol I'd be afraid it would tip over or something.
Sometimes the INTENDED use of the HiLift is to get a tire up out of a rut, and ALLOW the vehicle to tip off the jack placing the tire in a better spot. A couple of times when alone, I used the HiLift to put a tire in the air, and drove the truck forward, letting the jack fall over onto the ground.

I know you can't mean you're worried the HiLift would tip over the whole truck if you jacked up the rock sliders. :crazy:

ULTRA-IMPORTANT NOTE: If you're using the HiLift in a non-extraction scenario, NEVER trust it for any stability. All it can do is lift. Other means (rocks, chocks, winch line, straps) have to be used to prevent fore/aft movement.
 

Decembersend

Original poster
Member
Dec 3, 2011
316
the roadie said:
Sometimes the INTENDED use of the HiLift is to get a tire up out of a rut, and ALLOW the vehicle to tip off the jack placing the tire in a better spot. A couple of times when alone, I used the HiLift to put a tire in the air, and drove the truck forward, letting the jack fall over onto the ground.

I know you can't mean you're worried the HiLift would tip over the whole truck if you jacked up the rock sliders. :crazy:

ULTRA-IMPORTANT NOTE: If you're using the HiLift in a non-extraction scenario, NEVER trust it for any stability. All it can do is lift. Other means (rocks, chocks, winch line, straps) have to be used to prevent fore/aft movement.


I guess I was thinking that it would tip over the jack and scare the hell out of myself lmao.

I also never thought about using it the way you do, but it would be better to replace a $90 jack (if it happens to break doubt it will this thing is solid) then to be stuck and possibly leave the truck :no:
 

The_Roadie

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Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Decembersend said:
I guess I was thinking that it would tip over the jack and scare the hell out of myself lmao.
A HiLift is MEANT to be tipped over. Its base is tiny. Its top is a tinier platform. It has, and it's intended to have, NO sideways effectiveness. If you don't chock the opposite wheels or secure the vehicle somehow it's guaranteed to tip. And tipping doesn't break it.

It's not a maintenance tool at all. It's an extraction tool. Offroad only.
 

Decembersend

Original poster
Member
Dec 3, 2011
316
the roadie said:
A HiLift is MEANT to be tipped over. Its base is tiny. Its top is a tinier platform. It has, and it's intended to have, NO sideways effectiveness. If you don't chock the opposite wheels or secure the vehicle somehow it's guaranteed to tip. And tipping doesn't break it.

It's not a maintenance tool at all. It's an extraction tool. Offroad only.

What kind of floor jack do you have? Do you know the height on it?
 

Regulator

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,496
This is the floor jack I use.

Heavy Duty 3 Ton Floor Jack with Rapid Pump

I have never had an issue with needing the truck higher then what that jack was able to provide. I have a small 4x4 block that I would be able to use between the jack and the frame should I need to get it any higher.
 

Decembersend

Original poster
Member
Dec 3, 2011
316
Regulator said:
This is the floor jack I use.

Heavy Duty 3 Ton Floor Jack with Rapid Pump

I have never had an issue with needing the truck higher then what that jack was able to provide. I have a small 4x4 block that I would be able to use between the jack and the frame should I need to get it any higher.

That's funny and good to know. I almost bought that exact same jack a few weeks ago in fact it was the day I ordered the hilift
 

Bartonmd

Member
Nov 20, 2011
545
Decembersend said:
Doesn't kyle have a body lift as well, I'd figured it would be the same.

It does stay in place but I may have to double nut the bolt it keeps coming loose.

Yes, he does have the 3" body lift. It was made on his TB. What he did, that almost nobody else does, is put all the bolts in loosely, and drive it around his neighborhood to let the body settle in, centered up, where it wanted to be. I've seen them be 1/4" in any direction.

Yeah, stock bolts are good for that, because they are somewhat interference fit threads, and don't come loose by themselves.

Mike
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Bartonmd said:
What he did, that almost nobody else does, is put all the bolts in loosely, and drive it around his neighborhood to let the body settle in, centered up, where it wanted to be. I've seen them be 1/4" in any direction.

Sounds nuts but works.
 

The_Roadie

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Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Regulator said:
I have never had an issue with needing the truck higher then what that jack was able to provide. I have a small 4x4 block that I would be able to use between the jack and the frame should I need to get it any higher.
My late father-in-law showed me how to use a pallet jack to remove and lower a 500 pound air conditioning unit bolted to a cement wall six feet up. The pallet jack only had about 5" of lift available, but with an unlimited supply of pallets and a couple of 2X8's, we got 'er done. Hint: it involved three stacks of pallets, one stack on the jack and two more to the sides of the jack. The 2X8's went under the AC unit. It took a while, but less time than going out to rent an engine hoist or a forklift. He was a frugal mechanic. They don't teach these tricks in video games.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Regulator said:
I have a small 4x4 block that I would be able to use between the jack and the frame should I need to get it any higher.

I got my 6x6 body lift block. I think 7 or 8 trucks have used it and a floor jack to gain some altitude.


the roadie said:
My late father-in-law showed me how to use a pallet jack to remove and lower a 500 pound air conditioning unit bolted to a cement wall six feet up. The pallet jack only had about 5" of lift available, but with an unlimited supply of pallets and a couple of 2X8's, we got 'er done. Hint: it involved three stacks of pallets, one stack on the jack and two more to the sides of the jack. The 2X8's went under the AC unit. It took a while, but less time than going out to rent an engine hoist or a forklift. He was a frugal mechanic. They don't teach these tricks in video games.

Amazing what people could think up when they came from a time when you only had what was around and not the vast resources we have today. Took more time and more muscle, but it got done. I have learned more than a few tricks from old farmers.
 

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