HID questions

[Blckshdw]

You changed your DRL killer to the method that's supposed to retain the auto lights right? Put a towel or a magazine or something over the dash sensor, and then start it up and see if you get voltage. Did you pick up the stock bulbs from your parents' house to test?

 

[IAFF78]

No, completely kill the drl's.

 

[Blckshdw]

The auto lights and DRLs are 2 different things. Which method (link) did you follow?

Pins B2 and A12 on the BCM are the 2 connections to the dash sensor, that would be the testing option I'd want to look at next. I don't see a C3 on the schematic for the headlight switch, but I see one on the BCM labelled C3... That's not what you're talking about though right?

 

[IAFF78]

I just dropped the truck off at the mechanic. Im just gonna bite the bullet and give up. Ive spent a week trying to fix this with help from you guys. I don't even want to see how many hundred of dollars my mistake is gonna cost me. I thank all of you guys so very much for your time and effort.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[jrSS]

I just dropped the truck off at the mechanic. Im just gonna bite the bullet and give up. Ive spent a week trying to fix this with help from you guys. I don't even want to see how many hundred of dollars my mistake is gonna cost me. I thank all of you guys so very much for your time and effort.

Thanks,
Kevin

Well that sucks. Sometimes u gotta do whatcha gotta do. Good luck!

 

[IAFF78]

The thing that bothers me is how close could I have been to fixing the problem. I know I won't sleep good tonite.

 

[MAY03LT]

]How bout this...plug both stock bulbs back in. Follow the "jump pin 2 and pin 4 test" in the video I posted. This bypasses the headlight switch and bcm and puts power to the low beams (like it did in the video). Record the voltage at either fuse 3 or 6.

ran a wire from pin2 to pin4 and got 11.95V to the 2 lowbeam fuses....I didnt have the truck running this time just had the headlight switch to the right.

If you had the halogens in they probably would have turned on.

 

[IAFF78]

If you had the halogens in they probably would have turned on.

I tested the OEM plug for the HL bulbs and I got 12V's. I plugged in one of the OEM bulbs and got nada. I have a feeling that by putting the OEM bulbs in a tupperware container without wrapping them in something, I probably F'ed them up. But at least I had 12V at the plug after doing the jump.

 

[IAFF78]

Well, after nearly a day at the Mechanics I stopped by to find that he barely touched it. The mechanic stated that he looked at the truck and figured it would be cost efficient and easier if i put the truck back to stock. The only thing i left in were the ballasts(they were still mounted but not wired up) and the relay in the rear. So i told him I would and I took the truck home.

I was really upset with myself that i failed and took my truck to someone else to fix a problem i created. I'm going to give this another try. Over the past week with the guidance from everyone here, we have made good headway to figuring out the problem. So if anyone has any more suggestions on what to try to diagnose the problem, I'm all ears.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[IAFF78]

If you had the halogens in they probably would have turned on.

I did show 12V to the OEM HL plug but to get that result I had to go to the rear fusebox and jump a wire from the 12V positive to pin A5. Without that jump, I had nothing at the OEM HL plug.


Any other suggestions on what I should test?


Thanks,
Kevin

 

[Blckshdw]

Uninstall your DRL killer and put the rear fuse block stuff back to stock. Then test if your low beams come on automatically when the dash sensor is covered. If they don't, then I think your BCM was damaged when all those fuses popped earlier.

 

[MAY03LT]

I left the 9006 bulbs at my parents house.

I plugged in one of the OEM bulbs and got nada.

So you do have the stock 9006s now?

But at least I had 12V at the plug after doing the jump.

If you have 12v at either low beam connector...

....and you have continuity through the bulb...

It should turn on. If not, apply 12v to the bulb to verify that it works.

And if it does, and doesn't work in the truck, then you'll have to do voltage drop tests through the wiring. It isn't hard, I just don't have pics.

I did show 12V to the OEM HL plug but to get that result I had to go to the rear fusebox and jump a wire from the 12V positive to pin A5. Without that jump, I had nothing at the OEM HL plug.

Any other suggestions on what I should test?

Thanks,
Kevin

In the stuff I posted above, we are testing everything after pin 4 of the HDM. After we get that straightened out, we'll go to the control side of things. It makes no sense to do control side first if there is a problem on the output side.

I'm going out in a few to get my A5 readings and verify pin 5s polarity. Just for you Kevin.

Edit - just got back with pics

I have the same DRL kill w/auto mod that you do. I backprobed the relay at the pink/white vehicle side.

Headlamp switch ON shows GROUND on my dmm with the positive lead hooked up to 12v and the negative lead backprobing A5 (vehicle side) at the relay. You should also have this at the BCM side of A5 at the relay.

Headlamp switch OFF

From A5, vehicle side, that circuit is a straight shot to pin 5 of the HDM.

Dmm positive at positive battery terminal, dmm negative at pin 5 of the HDM, headlamp switch ON

Headlamp switch off

If 12v is applied to A5, I would imagine the HDM would not work.

 

[IAFF78]

So you do have the stock 9006s now?



If you have 12v at either low beam connector...

....and you have continuity through the bulb...

It should turn on. If not, apply 12v to the bulb to verify that it works.

And if it does, and doesn't work in the truck, then you'll have to do voltage drop tests through the wiring. It isn't hard, I just don't have pics.



In the stuff I posted above, we are testing everything after pin 4 of the HDM. After we get that straightened out, we'll go to the control side of things. It makes no sense to do control side first if there is a problem on the output side.

I'm going out in a few to get my A5 readings and verify pin 5s polarity. Just for you Kevin.

Edit - just got back with pics

I have the same DRL kill w/auto mod that you do. I backprobed the relay at the pink/white vehicle side.

Headlamp switch ON shows GROUND on my dmm with the positive lead hooked up to 12v and the negative lead backprobing A5 (vehicle side) at the relay. You should also have this at the BCM side of A5 at the relay.

Headlamp switch OFF

From A5, vehicle side, that circuit is a straight shot to pin 5 of the HDM.

Dmm positive at positive battery terminal, dmm negative at pin 5 of the HDM, headlamp switch ON

Headlamp switch off

If 12v is applied to A5, I would imagine the HDM would not work.

Thanks for taking time out of your day to take all those pics.

Alright, I just got home from work and am determined to solve this issue. Havent picked up my lights yet. I still have the DRL killer hooked up fyi.

So i back probed A5. With the truck running and the headlight switch turned on i got 14V. I used the black wire to test my connections before and after the relay connections. With the HL switch turned to auto and doing the same test i still got 14V.

I then did the same test with the black wire on my dmm grounded and tested for voltage and got nothing before or after the relay on A5.

I then tested pin 5 on the relay. I left the relay in because i did the wire trick to make it easier to test the pins.

With the truck off and the HL switch turned on I put the red wire of my dmm on positive and took the black wire to pin 5 and got 12V. I tested pins 2 and 6 and also got 12v. I tested pin 4 and got 11V.

I then did the same test with the truck off and the HL switch on auto and got 0V to pins 2,4,5. I got 12V to pin 6 though.

When i put the black wire of the dmm on ground and tested for 12V with the red wire I got 0V on all of the pins even with the HL switch turned to on position.

Hope all this make sense.

Thanks,
Kevin

just for the heck of it i hooked up a jumper from the rear fuse box positive to A5 before the relay. I then tested the HL relay under the front fuse box.

With the truck running and the HL switch turned on I tested for 12v. The black probe was grounded and the red probe tested pins 2&5 and i got 14V. Pin 4 only tested 10V and pin 2 tested 0V. I did the same test with the HL switch turned to auto and got the exactg same readings. I even got 10V to the 2 lowbeam fuses.

Hope this helps.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[MAY03LT]

Thanks for taking time out of your day to take all those pics.

No problem....tbh yesterday I only took the ones after the edit, most of the pics I put up in this thread are from a low beam mega-faq I am working on.

Alright, I just got home from work and am determined to solve this issue. Havent picked up my lights yet. I still have the DRL killer hooked up fyi.

It would be a huge help if you had them, even if it meant running to autozone and putting out $20 for two 9006s.

So i back probed A5. With the truck running and the headlight switch turned on i got 14V. I used the black wire to test my connections before and after the relay connections. With the HL switch turned to auto and doing the same test i still got 14V.

Was your dmm positive lead hooked up to the positive post at the rear fuse block? If so, this would match the 12v I got (I didn't have mine running when I took the pics).

I then did the same test with the black wire on my dmm grounded and tested for voltage and got nothing before or after the relay on A5.

Ok.

I then tested pin 5 on the relay. I left the relay in because i did the wire trick to make it easier to test the pins.

With the truck off and the HL switch turned on I put the red wire of my dmm on positive and took the black wire to pin 5 and got 12V. I tested pins 2 and 6 and also got 12v. I tested pin 4 and got 11V.

When you tested 2 and 4, was there a - sign in front of the voltage reading?

I then did the same test with the truck off and the HL switch on auto and got 0V to pins 2,4,5. I got 12V to pin 6 though.

So no ground at 2, 4, and 5 with the key off. Ok.

When i put the black wire of the dmm on ground and tested for 12V with the red wire I got 0V on all of the pins even with the HL switch turned to on position.

Double check your connections of your meter, as you have run into this before. Pin 2 should always have 12v.

just for the heck of it i hooked up a jumper from the rear fuse box positive to A5 before the relay. I then tested the HL relay under the front fuse box.

Well, in your dmm testing above, you have verified that the signal from A5 (bcm side) - through the relay - and vehicle side has the proper signal because it matches mine. I highly suggest that you don't use a jumper on A5 anymore. I don't know what would happen if A5 was jumped with 12v, and based on the readings I took yesterday, I wouldn't even try it in mine.

With the truck running and the HL switch turned on I tested for 12v. The black probe was grounded and the red probe tested pins 2&5 and i got 14V. Pin 4 only tested 10V and pin 2 tested 0V. I did the same test with the HL switch turned to auto and got the exactg same readings. I even got 10V to the 2 lowbeam fuses.

The bolded stuff is contradicting. With voltage at pin 4 this is where having stock 9006s would be valuable to have.

 

[IAFF78]

No problem....tbh yesterday I only took the ones after the edit, most of the pics I put up in this thread are from a low beam mega-faq I am working on.



It would be a huge help if you had them, even if it meant running to autozone and putting out $20 for two 9006s.



Was your dmm positive lead hooked up to the positive post at the rear fuse block? If so, this would match the 12v I got (I didn't have mine running when I took the pics).



Ok.



When you tested 2 and 4, was there a - sign in front of the voltage reading?



So no ground at 2, 4, and 5 with the key off. Ok.



Double check your connections of your meter, as you have run into this before. Pin 2 should always have 12v.



Well, in your dmm testing above, you have verified that the signal from A5 (bcm side) - through the relay - and vehicle side has the proper signal because it matches mine. I highly suggest that you don't use a jumper on A5 anymore. I don't know what would happen if A5 was jumped with 12v, and based on the readings I took yesterday, I wouldn't even try it in mine.



The bolded stuff is contradicting. With voltage at pin 4 this is where having stock 9006s would be valuable to have.

View attachment 18252
This is how my dmm is set up just to clear up any confusion.

Yes, my positive lead was hooked up to the rear fusebox positive post.

I did not get a - symbol next to my reading when i tested pin 2 and 4.



i did not have any voltage going to pin 2 at all. The only way i got voltage to pin 2 was when i did the rear jumper.

Whe i had the rear jumper hooked up i was showing 14V(cause i had the truck running at the time of the test) to pins 2 and 5. Pin 4 tested 10V and pin 6 tested 0V. Sorry for that confusion. Typo.

 

[MAY03LT]

View attachment 3263
This is how my dmm is set up just to clear up any confusion.

Yes, my positive lead was hooked up to the rear fusebox positive post.

I did not get a - symbol next to my reading when i tested pin 2 and 4.

Hmm, try this - keep your meter on 20v, and hook the positive lead up to the negative battery, and the negative lead up to the positive battery. You'll be looking for - 12.x volts on the meter.

i did not have any voltage going to pin 2 at all. The only way i got voltage to pin 2 was when i did the rear jumper.

We've ran into this before. I have never done the relay test with it plugged in/wire method, so maybe you're seeing the voltage get pulled down with the relay working. Tell you what, I'll do the same test in mine. BRB, testing.

Whe i had the rear jumper hooked up i was showing 14V(cause i had the truck running at the time of the test) to pins 2 and 5. Pin 4 tested 10V and pin 6 tested 0V. Sorry for that confusion. Typo.

Thanks for the correction.

 

[IAFF78]

If you guys have any other ideas i'm all ears. Im going to run to napa and get some new 9006 bulbs. should be back shortly.

 

[IAFF78]

Hmm, try this - keep your meter on 20v, and hook the positive lead up to the negative battery, and the negative lead up to the positive battery. You'll be looking for - 12.x volts on the meter.



We've ran into this before. I have never done the relay test with it plugged in/wire method, so maybe you're seeing the voltage get pulled down with the relay working. Tell you what, I'll do the same test in mine. BRB, testing.



Thanks for the correction.

Ok, real quick. I placed the red wire to negative and black wire to positive and got -12.45V on the dmm.

Just to make sure im doing this correct, if i'm testing for ground, i hook the red dmm wire to a positive and the black wire i use to probe my connections. When i do it that way, i dont get a -symbol on my dmm. Is this the right way or did i F it up?

heading to napa. brb.

 

[MAY03LT]

Wire method, one pin at a time

The following tests were done with the engine off.

Test 1a - pin 2 headlight switch OFF

Test 1b - pin 2 headlight switch ON

Test 2a - pin 4 headlight switch OFF

Test 2b - pin 4 headlight switch ON

Test 3a - pin 5 headlight switch OFF (note that the dmm leads were reversed)

Test 3b - pin 5 headlight switch ON

Test 4 - pin 6 headlight switch ON/OFF there was minimal change

Ok, real quick. I placed the red wire to negative and black wire to positive and got -12.45V on the dmm.

Just to make sure im doing this correct, if i'm testing for ground, i hook the red dmm wire to a positive and the black wire i use to probe my connections. When i do it that way, i dont get a -symbol on my dmm. Is this the right way or did i F it up?

heading to napa. brb.

Ok, that still doesn't explain some of the readings, I'll wait to see what happens when the bulbs are installed before going any further.

And yes, your method for testing ground is correct. I asked about the minus sign for clarification on previous test results.

 

[IAFF78]

Ok, just got back and installed the new 9006 bulbs and turned the HL switch to far right and got nothing.

Next, i did your test and here are the results. fyi, the rear jumper was unhooked but the relay was still hooked up.

1a-0v

1b-0.02V

2a-0V

2b-0.02V

3a-9.79V ( i did this test numerous times cause i noticed my numbers were WAY off from yours but results were always the same)

3b-12.29V

4-12.23V (also found minimal difference when switched the red/black wires around)

 

[MAY03LT]

With the 9006s plugged in, and the relay plugged in, and the headlight switch ON, CAREFULLY hook up the wire that is coming out of pin 2 to battery positive. Do the lights come on?

 

[IAFF78]

With the 9006s plugged in, and the relay plugged in, and the headlight switch ON, CAREFULLY hook up the wire that is coming out of pin 2 to battery positive. Do the lights come on?

Yes the lights do come on.

 

[MAY03LT]

Yes the lights do come on.

So, with them coming on with a 12v jump to pin 2, you've ruled out A5 at the bcm, A5 at the drl killer, A5 (vehicle side of drl killer to pin 5 of the HDM), pin 6, and pin 4, and the headlight circuits that go through the fuses to the headlight connectors.

Your pin 2 was suspected earlier but then later had power.

Pin 2 MUST have 12V because it's on a battery bus, and not even going through the ignition switch. Your fuse box may have internal corrosion or a loose socket if you poked anything into it that's spreading the socket sides apart.

Given the results of your pin 2 tests and jumper test, this is very likely what is going on. I wonder, with the jumper from battery positive to pin 2 removed, HDM plugged in, headlight switch on, if GENTLY wiggling the HDM can cause the lights to come on, even for a split second.

 

[IAFF78]

So, with them coming on with a 12v jump to pin 2, you've ruled out A5 at the bcm, A5 at the drl killer, A5 (vehicle side of drl killer to pin 5 of the HDM), pin 6, and pin 4, and the headlight circuits that go through the fuses to the headlight connectors.

Your pin 2 was suspected earlier but then later had power.



Given the results of your pin 2 tests and jumper test, this is very likely what is going on. I wonder, with the jumper from battery positive to pin 2 removed, HDM plugged in, headlight switch on, if GENTLY wiggling the HDM can cause the lights to come on, even for a split second.

I did as you said and nothing happened. Not even a little flicker from the lights.

Heres what puzzles me...
With the keys out, HL switch turned to far right I tested pin 2 for positive and got 0V. I switched the wire around and tested for negative and got 9.8V.I thought pin 2 was supposed to have constant power? It seems like theres no power coming to pin2 what so ever. Now when i did the positive jump to pin 2 it worked because it got a proven supply of power to the pin.

 

[MAY03LT]

I did as you said and nothing happened. Not even a little flicker from the lights.

Heres what puzzles me...
With the keys out, HL switch turned to far right I tested pin 2 for positive and got 0V. I switched the wire around and tested for negative and got 9.8V.I thought pin 2 was supposed to have constant power? It seems like theres no power coming to pin2 what so ever. Now when i did the positive jump to pin 2 it worked because it got a proven supply of power to the pin.

The wiggle test, if successful, would have confirmed a poor connection/spread contacts inside the fuse block pin 2.

Like the roadie said, pin 2 is connected to the positive battery bus inside the front fuse block.

I just noticed something weird in one of my diagrams...do you have a fuse #53 in the front block?

 

[IAFF78]

The wiggle test, if successful, would have confirmed a poor connection/spread contacts inside the fuse block pin 2.

Like the roadie said, pin 2 is connected to the positive battery bus inside the front fuse block.

I just noticed something weird in one of my diagrams...do you have a fuse #53 in the front block?

Dude, please dont tell me I've wasted numerous hours of your guys time because of a F'n little fuse.

I pulled the fuse out(15amp) and noticed it was blown. So i took fuse 27 out(backup??) and popped it in 53. No jumpers were hooked up and when i flipped the switch...Presto, I had lights. Was that really the culprit??

 

[Blckshdw]

Damn, that's all it was? Good thing we can count on fresh eyes to look at a problem, and see stuff that we missed before. Nice catch Andrew!

 

[The_Roadie]

Like the roadie said, pin 2 is connected to the positive battery bus inside the front fuse block.

I just noticed something weird in one of my diagrams...do you have a fuse #53 in the front block?

What do you see fuse #53 doing? On the I6, I see that feeding the EAP (electronically adjustable pedal) option. Nothing to do with headlights. Pin 2 comes straight from the battery bus bar. What diagram are you referring to?

 

[IAFF78]

I honestly am in dis-belief that a overlooked fuse was the issue. Im gonna hold my breathe for a few weeks hoping this doesnt happen again. In the mean time what type of HID wire harness do you guys use and recommend? The one from DDM is going back gift wrapped with a big FU on it. I and a few others on this site didnt like the way it was set-up which you can see for yourself from the pic i posted in this thread in the beginning. I do want a new harness just because of the power the HID's draw.

One more issue i'm having is the security light on the dash came on last week while working on this issue. do you guys think a simple reset by pulling the neg batt terminal would be the safest route? I really noticed the security light come on after i removed the panels around the gauge cluster while i pulled my headlight switch.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[IAFF78]

What do you see fuse #53 doing? On the I6, I see that feeding the EAP (electronically adjustable pedal) option. Nothing to do with headlights. Pin 2 comes straight from the battery bus bar. What diagram are you referring to?

In my TB, Fuse#53 in the front fuse box is for the HDM and its a 15A fuse. Weird how they change stuff year after year.

 

[MAY03LT]

Dude, please dont tell me I've wasted numerous hours of your guys time because of a F'n little fuse.

I pulled the fuse out(15amp) and noticed it was blown. So i took fuse 27 out(backup??) and popped it in 53. No jumpers were hooked up and when i flipped the switch...Presto, I had lights. Was that really the culprit??

First, you're not wasting anyones time.

Yes, I think you got her now.

I believed that the pin 2 circuit in the fuse block was toast. I went looking for a fuse block schematic to see if I could come up with an alternative to replacing the fuse block.

During my search, I stumbled upon another headlight diagram and it had a small annotation right above the HDM which said that late production models have that fuse 53. My shop manual doesn't show it, my TB doesn't, and I don't think I have ever run into this before in TBs that I have worked on in real life. Now looking back, it is shown in the diagram in my video, but that one doesn't have the annotation. It shows the different locations for the I6 and V8. Since mine didn't have it, and I never (before now) ran into it, I never looked into it any further.

With this new information and going over the details of the thread again, I now believe that when both inputs of the HID relay harness was used, one was backwards and the 12v headlight circuit (pin2/pin4) shorted to ground and wiped out 53 (and I think you said you lost fuse 6 earlier in the thread).

You sir get an A for your determination.

What do you see fuse #53 doing? On the I6, I see that feeding the EAP (electronically adjustable pedal) option. Nothing to do with headlights. Pin 2 comes straight from the battery bus bar. What diagram are you referring to?

This is the one I found today, not for my 03

This is the one from the video, which was for my 03, but not in my 03.

I believe they both were from Alldata.

 

[IAFF78]

Just got back from giving the old girl a nice quick bath. Gotta love the abuse of road salt here in the PA/MD region.

I would like to thank everyone here at GMT Nation who has wished me good luck and has helped me diagnose and fix this 3 week long issue. You guys have helped me push through and saved me a boat load of money. I can never repay you guys for the time and effort you have put into helping me, a complete stranger. It really shows the kind of people that belong to this forum.

I am a career firefighter in MD. My coworkers are like my exteneded family filled with brothers and sisters. We help each other out when called upon without a moments notice. Thats a rarity you find in todays society but i think i found another extended family here at GMT. So i would like to thank the following for treating me like one of your own and getting me through this electrical disaster i created...which turned out to be a simple fix

MAY03LT
the roadie
Blckshdw
Boricua SS
BO TIE SS
Me007gold
Wooluf1952
Silvernclean

If anyone of you guys are in the PA/MD area let me know or if we're all at a MID Atlantic meet come see me, I owe you dinner and some ice cold beverages of the alcoholic type.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[MAY03LT]

Don't forget to give yourself some credit. You asked questions. You went and got a meter. You followed procedures. You followed up with results. Anything we posted wouldn't have meant squatch if you didn't go out there and do the testing and then post your results. I think this means you owe yourself a cold one. And dinner.

 

[IAFF78]

Don't forget to give yourself some credit. You asked questions. You went and got a meter. You followed procedures. You followed up with results. Anything we posted wouldn't have meant squatch if you didn't go out there and do the testing and then post your results. I think this means you owe yourself a cold one. And dinner.

WAAAYYYY ahead of ya on the cold one.

 

[IAFF78]

Heres a video and some pics of what both lows and fogs looked like the night I originally installed them.

[video=youtube;UTfN1woZJII]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTfN1woZJII[/video]


View attachment 18272

Now i cant wait for some night time driving later on. Its been long enough without the lights. I was going through some serious withdraws. At least the other drivers on the road can rest easy since I wont be driving with the Highs on anymore...hopefully

 

[The_Roadie]

Darn GM. Can't believe this took so long to understand. Here's the schematics from the posted service manuals, that I think are from Mitchell. 2002-2004 show no fuse. The 2006 version adds the one you found.

Old

View attachment 18274

Newer

View attachment 18275

 

[cgreene]

Your best bet, if you haven't done so already, is to go to the service manual thread I linked earlier. Download the PDFs for your 2004, one of them is specifically for wiring. It tells you what color wire/pin assignment leads between what devices. That will help you focus your troubleshooting more to where it needs to be, rather than shotgunning in a general area and hoping to find something that stands out.

As for the headlight switches, any of the GMT360 (and possibly 370/305) switches should work. I believe there was a slight change in 2003 or 2004, where the switch gained another position on the dial. Only reason I'm not 100% sure if the LWB switches will work, is because I took mine apart for the LED mod thread, and noticed the circuit board was stamped GMT370...

Edit: This is your thread, so no need to start another one. Also, if you happen to know of any forum members in your area, you might be able to do a simple part swap to test it out before spending any money on a switch.

I need wiring diagram for 04 TB low beams showing were power comes from for Relay 46 Pin 2. Could you repost the link to that service manual thread please? Thanks!

 

[Wooluf1952]

I need wiring diagram for 04 TB low beams showing were power comes from for Relay 46 Pin 2. Could you repost the link to that service manual thread please? Thanks!

http://gmtnation.com/f23/need-service-manuals-get-them-here-371/

 

[Darkrider_LS]

Here's a pic from an Ebay relay harness. These are the kind I've always seen, more or less.

#1 gets hooked up to the battery
#2/#3 get hooked up to a convenient grounding point on either side of the engine bay
#4/#5 plug into the HID ballasts
#6 accepts the OEM low beam plug on the driver's side to activate the relay.

Ok i have a quick question. If i were to get ahold of a harness similar to the one in the above quote will i be able to run HIDs without having to do a CAP mod or DRL killer? From my understanding using a harness like the one above will send 100% power to the HIDs since it pulls power directly from the battery. I have installed harnesses like this before on previous vehicles just not one that uses an auto light set up like our TBs.

 

[mrphoenix80]

So here is a question. What do you guys think? I have HIDs in the low and high headlights with 4 light highs. With stock fogs and hella 500f's with the cheap blue bulbs. I want to go yellow with the fogs. So what is the best option some 35w 3000K hids ,cheap yellow bulbs or the yellow LED 881 bulbs? Also what to change the Hella's because someone looked at them the other day with them all on and asked "What are those, turn signals?" And yes they look that weak and out of place.