Blckshdw
Moderator
Darkrider_LS said:Ok i have a quick question. If i were to get ahold of a harness similar to the one in the above quote will i be able to run HIDs without having to do a CAP mod or DRL killer? From my understanding using a harness like the one above will send 100% power to the HIDs since it pulls power directly from the battery. I have installed harnesses like this before on previous vehicles just not one that uses an auto light set up like our TBs.
The short answer, is The harness only protects the small gauge stock headlight wiring from melting during ballast ignition. The issue with the DRLs is not power related, but an issue of when the bulb is supposed to light up. The PWM signal is the equivalent to flipping the light switch on/off/on/off in quick succession. With standard bulbs, the result is a dim light output since the bulb never fully turns on, or off, just stays in the middle. With HIDs, the result will be a buzzing sound from either the ballasts or your relay harness as they try to change states. Within a couple of months, they'll be dead, and you'll have to replace them.
mrphoenix80 said:So here is a question. What do you guys think? I have HIDs in the low and high headlights with 4 light highs. With stock fogs and hella 500f's with the cheap blue bulbs. I want to go yellow with the fogs. So what is the best option some 35w 3000K hids ,cheap yellow bulbs or the yellow LED 881 bulbs? Also what to change the Hella's because someone looked at them the other day with them all on and asked "What are those, turn signals?" And yes they look that weak and out of place.
If your other lights look weak in comparison, then I'd think HIDs are the way to go to remedy that.