IAFF78 said:
Adjust your focus slighty. Look at the diagram of the switch itself, then look for a particular function (which wire is assigned to turning on the low beam) and then follow THAT wire to the BCM for testing.
HID questions
- Thread starter IAFF78
- Start date
Adjust your focus slighty. Look at the diagram of the switch itself, then look for a particular function (which wire is assigned to turning on the low beam) and then follow THAT wire to the BCM for testing.
Blckshdw said:
Theres a pink wire that comes from the headlight switch that says "HEADLAMP ON". It goes to E7 on the BCM labeled "IND CTRL". There are 4 plugs on the BCM that are labeled "HDLMP ON SIG"". Its confusing and I cant find a diagram of just the headlight switch, just the main headlight wiring schematic.
IAFF78 said:
IND = Indicator = the LEDs inside the switch that light up depending on what function it's set to. You're in the right spot, just a couple inches too low on the page. The 3 wires above that section are for the functions of the knob itself. You should see DRL Defeat, Auto, Park, and Head (lights) as options for each section, but connections to ground for certain ones on each wire. Figure out which one of those is for headlights on, and then go back to the BCM, and connect THAT wire to the ground stud by the fuse block, and see if you get voltage at the low beams.
MAY03LT said:
No, I actuall got 12.22V with the red probe on pin2 and the black probe was grounded to the chassis. The headlight switch was turned all the way to the right. And pin 5 also had 12.22V. I never put both probes on the relay at the same time. The black wire was always grounded to the chassis and the red probe was always on the relay.
Blckshdw said:
The 3 wires that go to the BCM are LTgreen, white and grey/black. The white wire was the only one that went to the BCM that says"HDLMP ON SIG" and i believe it was F9. The other 2 wires went to the BCM into the "SW ON INPUT" and "DRL DEFEAT" plugs.
IAFF78 said:
Grab that piece of wire you used before and jump that 'on' wire from the switch (at the BCM), to the ground stud.Blckshdw said:
Where do i hook that piecce of wire into? Cut and splice it into the wire or try and thread it into the harness plug? Once i do that then what am i looking for? What do i test?
IAFF78 said:
So pin 2 now has voltage. Cool.
Moving on....
IAFF78 said:
Those fuses get power from pin 4 of the low beam relay (when the headlamp switch is on) and should be close to battery voltage.
How bout this...plug both stock bulbs back in. Follow the "jump pin 2 and pin 4 test" in the video I posted. This bypasses the headlight switch and bcm and puts power to the low beams (like it did in the video). Record the voltage at either fuse 3 or 6.
MAY03LT said:So pin 2 now has voltage. Cool.
Moving on....
Those fuses get power from pin 4 of the low beam relay (when the headlamp switch is on) and should be close to battery voltage.
How bout this...plug both stock bulbs back in. Follow the "jump pin 2 and pin 4 test" in the video I posted. This bypasses the headlight switch and bcm and puts power to the low beams (like it did in the video). Record the voltage at either fuse 3 or 6.
Explain how you did the jumper trick. I saw you plug you wire into pin4 and hooked a red alligator clip to it. I also saw you clamp a black alligator clip to something. Im kinda lost.
Well this sucks, I have officially ran out of time. Got stuff to do before work tomorrow. This really sucks cause i work 24 hrs tomorrow and 12hrs friday(10a-10p). Saturdays my daughters 1st bday party so thats a wash obviously and another 24hr shift on sunday. Looks like my first day off will be monday and i'll pick this back up. Thanks again fellas for all the help. Hopefully i can fix this before tuesday when i have an appointment at the mechanic. Stay safe everyone and drink a couple for me.
Later,
Kevin
Later,
Kevin
IAFF78 said:
Crap, I forgot I didn't do the pin 2-4 jump in that vid, I did a B+ to 4 jump. Darn.
That little wire thing that I plugged into 4 is just a low tech fuse/relay probe I salvaged out of a wire harness.
You can take a small piece of wire, with about 1/2" stripped on each end, twist the ends up tight and put one end down into 4, the other end into 2.
IAFF78 said:
I think you meant carrying it over into 4...in that case yes.
That's it. Look around 3:50 - 4:05 , you'll see that the relay is removed and the low beams are on. Applying battery voltage to 4 bypasses everything and puts power to the low beams.
Have faith grasshoppa!!
Actually, there was another guy towards the end of last week who was installing his DDMTuning kit. He started to run into similar problems you're experiencing, when he installed his relay harness. One of the suggestions made to him, was not to hook up BOTH low OEM beam plugs into the harness, just one side or the other at a time. It could be possible that having both of them plugged in caused some type of issue that blew the fuses and such.
Actually, there was another guy towards the end of last week who was installing his DDMTuning kit. He started to run into similar problems you're experiencing, when he installed his relay harness. One of the suggestions made to him, was not to hook up BOTH low OEM beam plugs into the harness, just one side or the other at a time. It could be possible that having both of them plugged in caused some type of issue that blew the fuses and such.
Ok, heres what ive done so far...
-turned the truck on and had it running. Turned on the headlight switch to far right
-Ran a jumper wire from the 12v at the rear fuse box to pin A5
-checked the relay. Pin2-14.3V Pin4-10.8V Pin5-14.3V Pin6-0V tested pin 6 for ground and got no reading
-tested low beam fuses and got 10.8v on both fuses
-tested high beam fuses and got 14.25V with the high turned on
Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Kevin
-turned the truck on and had it running. Turned on the headlight switch to far right
-Ran a jumper wire from the 12v at the rear fuse box to pin A5
-checked the relay. Pin2-14.3V Pin4-10.8V Pin5-14.3V Pin6-0V tested pin 6 for ground and got no reading
-tested low beam fuses and got 10.8v on both fuses
-tested high beam fuses and got 14.25V with the high turned on
Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Kevin
So if you plug the OEM sockets into the HID ballasts directly (bypassing the relay harness) and ballasts to bulbs, do your HIDs fire up? 
(just to make sure those weren't damaged in last week's chaos)
(just to make sure those weren't damaged in last week's chaos)HAHA...chaos is an understatement for sure. Havent done that yet but i will be shortly.
Ok, no what i did was kept the wires in the back hooked up.
Tested the relay and nothing changed. Cool. So, I left the relay in and ran a wire from pin2 to pin4 and got 11.95V to the 2 lowbeam fuses. Before I did that, I was only getting 10.8V at pin4 and at the lowbeam fuses. I didnt have the truck running this time just had the headlight switch to the right. =est Now I guess i'll test the HID bulbs and see if I didnt smoke me. I feel a lil shaky about the OEM bulbs. I didnt store them as safely as i should have. Sucks cause i know better.
Also, how do i test for ground with the multimeter? I always remembered that if you put the red probe on a 12v source and the black to what ever ground your testing you should have a V reading similiar to 12V but with a - symbol next to the number. Correct?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Kevin
Ok, no what i did was kept the wires in the back hooked up.
Tested the relay and nothing changed. Cool. So, I left the relay in and ran a wire from pin2 to pin4 and got 11.95V to the 2 lowbeam fuses. Before I did that, I was only getting 10.8V at pin4 and at the lowbeam fuses. I didnt have the truck running this time just had the headlight switch to the right. =est Now I guess i'll test the HID bulbs and see if I didnt smoke me. I feel a lil shaky about the OEM bulbs. I didnt store them as safely as i should have. Sucks cause i know better.
Also, how do i test for ground with the multimeter? I always remembered that if you put the red probe on a 12v source and the black to what ever ground your testing you should have a V reading similiar to 12V but with a - symbol next to the number. Correct?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Kevin
IAFF78 said:
Since you're in the engine bay while doing this, put the positive test lead on the positive battery post, that's your known 12V source. Put the negative test lead in the socket where pin 6 goes. If you get a voltage reading on the tester, the ground is good (since it completed the circuit successfully)
You'll get a -V reading if your test leads are backwards, indicating the flow of current is coming in through the negative test lead, and grounding through the positive lead.
Blckshdw said:
I did as you said and i got 12.39V at pin 6 on the relay.
Also I did the pin 2 to pin 4 jump and I have 12V to the fuses and I also test the OEM plugs for the lowbeams. I tested over 12V to one of the pins on the plug. So i hooked the HID's up and nothing.
Whats the next step?
Thanks,
Kevin
Getting 12+V on the low beam plugs is good. Assuming you also flipped the plugs around, after your ballasts didn't fire, then I might say they are dead. Did you also try plugging the OEM bulbs in to see if they come on? At least with the stock ones you can look at the filaments to see if they are blown or not.
Just to double check, you didn't have to leave that jumper wire connected to a constant 12V in the rear fuse block, for you to get voltage readings in the front block right? You're just turning the headlight switch on for this?
Just to double check, you didn't have to leave that jumper wire connected to a constant 12V in the rear fuse block, for you to get voltage readings in the front block right? You're just turning the headlight switch on for this?
Blckshdw said:Getting 12+V on the low beam plugs is good. Assuming you also flipped the plugs around, after your ballasts didn't fire, then I might say they are dead. Did you also try plugging the OEM bulbs in to see if they come on? At least with the stock ones you can look at the filaments to see if they are blown or not.
Just to double check, you didn't have to leave that jumper wire connected to a constant 12V in the rear fuse block, for you to get voltage readings in the front block right? You're just turning the headlight switch on for this?
Just to be sure I unhooked the 12V jumper in the rear fuse box that went to pin A5 and then tested the relay and fuses up front and got 0.01V. So i need the jumper hooked up in the rear to get voltage up front.
I'm gonna look at my HID kit again and make sure i have it hooked up right. What i have and what DDM's install manual are 2 different sets. I hooked the hid bulb into the socket. Then the OEM plug went to the adapter plug. Then there are 2 smaller plugs coming from the bulb and ballast. Those were hooked up. Thats how in remember installing them.
Thanks,
Kevin
To revisit some of the stuff I was hinting at last week, there's a white wire that runs from the headlight switch, back to the BCM which tells it to activate the low beams (and sends voltage through the pink/white wire that you're applying the jumper wire to) You need to check for voltage on that pin coming into the BCM to see if that's the problem. I believe you said you had voltage coming out of that wire on the switch...
Your description of your HID setup was slightly confusing. Your HID bulb went into what socket?
The OEM low beam should plug into the 2 pin connector on the ballast (or OEM plug into an adapter, which then goes into the 2 pin connector of the ballast) There are 2 single pin connectors coming out of the ballast which plug into the pair of single connectors on the HID bulb.
Your description of your HID setup was slightly confusing. Your HID bulb went into what socket?
The OEM low beam should plug into the 2 pin connector on the ballast (or OEM plug into an adapter, which then goes into the 2 pin connector of the ballast) There are 2 single pin connectors coming out of the ballast which plug into the pair of single connectors on the HID bulb.
Blckshdw said:To revisit some of the stuff I was hinting at last week, there's a white wire that runs from the headlight switch, back to the BCM which tells it to activate the low beams (and sends voltage through the pink/white wire that you're applying the jumper wire to) You need to check for voltage on that pin coming into the BCM to see if that's the problem. I believe you said you had voltage coming out of that wire on the switch...
Your description of your HID setup was slightly confusing. Your HID bulb went into what socket?
The OEM low beam should plug into the 2 pin connector on the ballast (or OEM plug into an adapter, which then goes into the 2 pin connector of the ballast) There are 2 single pin connectors coming out of the ballast which plug into the pair of single connectors on the HID bulb.
The hid kit has the bulb with red/black wires running into 2 small plugs which go to the ballast. there is a plug which hooks to the OEM plug that runs through the grommet. From there it plugs into the ballast. I even switched the plugs around incase of reverse polarity. Nothing.
I tested the HID plug that hooks into the OEM plug and it was over 12V before i pluuged it into the ballast.
You would have to check out DDM's website to see the kit for yourself to get a better picture.
I'm willing to bet your ballasts are both shot then. How about the OEM 9006 bulbs, do they work?
Edit: To rule out having dead HID bulbs, you could connect the ballasts to the OEM plug, and then use your meter to test the output plugs of the ballast.
Edit: To rule out having dead HID bulbs, you could connect the ballasts to the OEM plug, and then use your meter to test the output plugs of the ballast.
I left the 9006 bulbs at my parents house. Their garage is heated and mine isnt...yet. This years to do list. Will be going down there later anyway.
I traced the white wire to pin F9 on the tan plug. If thats the one then i have nothing at the plug. I had the truck running and the HL switch to the left. I left the tan plug plugged in and squeezed my probe in with the wire and got nothing. Is that F9 white wire the winner? It says the white wire marked "AUTO/PARK" on the HL switch goes to the BCM to pin F9 which is marked"HDLMP ON SIG". I think thats the wire i need.
I traced the white wire to pin F9 on the tan plug. If thats the one then i have nothing at the plug. I had the truck running and the HL switch to the left. I left the tan plug plugged in and squeezed my probe in with the wire and got nothing. Is that F9 white wire the winner? It says the white wire marked "AUTO/PARK" on the HL switch goes to the BCM to pin F9 which is marked"HDLMP ON SIG". I think thats the wire i need.
IAFF78 said:
With the switch turned off, it's correct to not have voltage on that wire. But yes, you were in the right spot at the BCM. You need to turn the switch on, and then check it. If you DO have power at F9, but nothing on A5, then either one of the pins could have a connectivity issue, or your BCM was somehow damaged, but only affecting that connection/circuit.
Since jumping the A5 wire has been working, if you have voltage at F9, you could connect those 2 wires with a jumper and have a temporary fix.
And you STILL have a positive voltage reading on that wire at the switch? If so, then that wire got damaged somewhere between the switch and BCM.
Blckshdw said:
I left the jumper hooked up in the back and pulled the HL switch out. I found a whiteish color wire hooked into the bigger of the 2 plugs. The white wire was in the 3rd plug from the end so i guess thats the winner. The other wire thats in the plug opposite of it is a pink/purplish color wire. I tested the white wire with the truck running and the HL knob turned to the right and got nothing. No reading to make sure on the multimeter. I checked other plugs to make sure i had a good ground and I did. So 0V at the white wire.
OK, so your BCM is OK, which is good. If your parking lights and internal modules light up when the switch is turned on, this makes your switch the new prime suspect.
Blckshdw said:
As long as i got the wire right then cool. Theres 2 plugs, one small and one big. I couldnt find anywhere on the plug where it was numbered. So i went 3 in from each end until i found a white wire. Stuck the probe along side where the wire connects to the plug and had no reading. So it could be the HL switch. If thats the case, I guess i better check the junk yards for one.
My mind reading abilities for the day have been expended thanks to the people at work, so you'll have to be a lil more detailed on where exactly you read your voltages from. Depending on the location checked, what you found may be 100% correct.Edit: The DRL killer does it's work on the signals AFTER the switch, so what voltages are found at the switch will not be affected by what you have done downstream from it.
Take the jumper wires off. You won't be able to tell if voltage is flowing as it's intended, if you left your cheat in place.Edit: Upon reading more of the schematic, I think I gave you some incorrect info. The switch gets it's power on each wire FROM the BCM, and connects that particular signal to a ground to complete the circuit and activate whatever feature. Not the other way around, like I said before.