Well the engine is definitely cockeyed In relation to the dowel pin holes on the tranny. I'm pretty sure is a result of a damaged mount while putting it in. Need to order replacement mounts now, as to damage on flex plate, I have the other flex plate waiting in the wings if it's a shared opinion to replace....my secondary concern is what was mentioned about the ring in the center, let me read up on what everyone has submitted and go take a look, and again, everyones input is valued , I really appreciate the feedback of each and everyone here.....let me catch up and get some answers....brb
Engine Swapping Made Un-Easy
- Thread starter jakster918
- Start date
🤣🤣🤣🤣.....the only way...,that that video, when the camera cuts away and comes back to the gentleman there, could be more a mirror of almost EVERY job I have ventured out on with this truck, would be If I published it myself lol
There are only Two Kinds of People in this World who ever suffer from these kinds of Unfortunate Experiences:
(1) Those it has ALREADY happened to....
(2) Those that it's GOING to happen to...
However, these images May Show The Way OUT of this Mechanical Purgatory...
(1) Those it has ALREADY happened to....
(2) Those that it's GOING to happen to...
However, these images May Show The Way OUT of this Mechanical Purgatory...
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For everyone's consideration following are comparison photos of my old and donor engine, mind you, I still need to get replacement mounts for the engine as it is unquestionably cockeyed in relation to the transmission alignment dowel holes.....that being said , here's what I show:
Attachments
@mrrsm I'm picking up what yur putting down, I need to do a harbor freight trip today and get a measuring tool to check for certain lol, will head out shortly
I think it looks correct.. But thats just my opinion based on the pics.
JayArr
Member
Suggestion: Take the torque converter off the transmission and see if the nub will fit into the end of the crankshaft. Requires no special tools or expense.
Suggestion: Try to mate the transmission to the engine without the torque converter. If the bell housing will mate up with the block then you know the problem is with the TC. Either it's not going all the way into the transmission pump or the nub doesn't fit the crank. Requires no special tools or expense.
As far as the flex plate goes I would just smooth it out. A good friend of mine trained by Boeing told me that stress failures start at "ridges' and if you have a scratch or a burr then future failures can be minimized by smoothing it out so any forces in the area don't have anywhere to build up. I had a score mark around an aluminum drive shaft and thought it needed replacement but with his help we just carefully smoothed out the score until it was undetectable to the touch and the drive shaft never ever gave me any problem.
Suggestion: Try to mate the transmission to the engine without the torque converter. If the bell housing will mate up with the block then you know the problem is with the TC. Either it's not going all the way into the transmission pump or the nub doesn't fit the crank. Requires no special tools or expense.
As far as the flex plate goes I would just smooth it out. A good friend of mine trained by Boeing told me that stress failures start at "ridges' and if you have a scratch or a burr then future failures can be minimized by smoothing it out so any forces in the area don't have anywhere to build up. I had a score mark around an aluminum drive shaft and thought it needed replacement but with his help we just carefully smoothed out the score until it was undetectable to the touch and the drive shaft never ever gave me any problem.
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Brilliant suggestions all 3, ty so much, omw home now check , ty ty!
sorry for the long silence yall, been racing to try and get this completed so that i could get this done before temps here in NE Oklahoma dropped to single digits and snowed, as my truck is outside. Thanks to everyone's help and feedback and input as i almost made it, ultimately a bunch of little stuff held me up but, i figured those who have been helping me would be interested in knowing what the issue was that prevented the engine and transmission mating.......so , to those whose proverbial money was on the torque converter not being completely seated in the transmission, you were the winners.....yep, so basically prior to me obtaining the donor engine, and also before i had obtained a proper transmission jack, i had removed the old motor and had the tranny on a regular trolley jack. for about two weeks. anyway, during that time the transmission had slipped off and fallen. now u mite be saying to yourself, "dude, we mentioned making sure the torque converter was completely seated in like , post # 3..." , well two things , one was that i incorrectly assumed that something that may have "slipped" off would just "slip" back in .....it wasn't until i was re-reading @movietvet post about spinning it again after the initial "thunk" that i decided to attempt again, in prior attempts i had just tried to shove the torque converter in without spinning......in any event, i got a 2nd "thunk" and couldn't believe it , attempted to mate the two, and it almost meshed right then, did some slight adjusting with the mounts, and it flushed right up......again, thanks so much for everyone's feedback and advice, every single post gave me insight and helped make me a better owner.....little stuff left now, trying to get the wiring harness in(it came from 4 wheel drive Silverado, the donor truck) which I'm told shouldn't be an issue, and getting all hoses plugged in , also neutral safety switch is causing hiccups because i removed the little metal tab from the shift cable way back when and cant recall if the truck is in neutral or not. i believe i read somewhere that one can damage the new switch if installing it when in any other gear.....regardless, thank you all so much!
*edited for spelling and grammar (ugh, four times)
*edited for spelling and grammar (ugh, four times)
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as of today i have the power steering stuff done, with in line filter , almost all hoses connected(except for the little one on passenger side under the intake manifold, i cant recall what that goes where) also on the tranny i have a hose dangling out the rear of it ......ac lines are almost all connected(sans a couple nuts and bolts, but i didnt have ac working before so what ya gonna do *shrug*) once the temps get above 15 degrees( and some rechargable heated gloves get here on the 18th) and the snow that just fell today thaws a little , i will attempt to start.....all fluids will be replenished of course lol
Well today should have been V-day, but after putting in fluids and attempting ignition it eventually turned, but substantial amount of coolant seems to be coming from block, im probably ruined.....sigh , will update soon....
Just to confirm from your Post #44 ...THESE Images are of your Old, "Swapped Out" Motor...Correct?
Because if not... THIS Closeup of the back of the LS Block looks like it has a Problem...
Best Practices for Prepping Used Engines prior to installation should always include replacing the Rusted Out Steel Freeze Plugs...with BRASS Ones... Melling carries these via RockAuto described in this PDF:
Best Non-Hardening Freeze Plug Sealant:
Because if not... THIS Closeup of the back of the LS Block looks like it has a Problem...
Best Practices for Prepping Used Engines prior to installation should always include replacing the Rusted Out Steel Freeze Plugs...with BRASS Ones... Melling carries these via RockAuto described in this PDF:
2001 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 5.3L V8 Expansion Plug | RockAuto
RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.
www.rockauto.com
Best Non-Hardening Freeze Plug Sealant:
Engine Block Frost and Freeze Plug Sealer Shellac PERMATEX 2 oz | eBay
New Permatex shellac. Shellac is commonly used to seal engine freeze plugs, cam plugs and frost plugs. 2 oz bottle with applicator.
www.ebay.com
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lol yes thos photos are of the thrown rod engine lolJust to confirm from your Post #44 ...THESE Images are of your Old, "Swapped Out" Motor...Correct?
View attachment 111266View attachment 111267
Because if not... THIS Closeup of the back of the LS Block looks like it has a Problem...
View attachment 111268
Best Practices for Prepping Used Engines prior to installation should always include replacing the Rusted Out Steel Freeze Plugs...with BRASS Ones... Melling carries these via RockAuto described in this PDF:
2001 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 5.3L V8 Expansion Plug | RockAuto
RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.www.rockauto.com
Best Non-Hardening Freeze Plug Sealant:
Engine Block Frost and Freeze Plug Sealer Shellac PERMATEX 2 oz | eBay
New Permatex shellac. Shellac is commonly used to seal engine freeze plugs, cam plugs and frost plugs. 2 oz bottle with applicator.www.ebay.com
View attachment 111270
please tell me more about where to find the freeze plugs, i had the engine on a stand pretty much down to nothing at one point and still COULD NOT FIND THEM......but to update, and i should probably reply this separately but i went ahead and put the tires on and lowered it tonight, attempted to start and it seems to be doing.....better.....still struggling to start and sounds kind of erratic and rough and doesnt stay running unless i lightly give it gas.....but it occurs to me....i had issues with the cam position sensor plugin, just didnt feel fully clicked in , thinking i may give it another look....will check tomorrow.....the front half of the truck has been on a like 20 to 30 degree incline on two front placed jack stands for about two months so perhaps it was struggling due to that.....as far as the coolant .....not sure yet, it appears the resevoir was damaged whilst dropping in the engine though so im not jumping to engine damage just yet , also i may have power steering pump lines either crossed or a wrong facing ps inline filter because i noticed a copious amount of ps fluid on the ground, i have a ramanned Detroit Axle rack and pinion that went on with this project so im hoping the rack is not doa (but i think we all are leaning towards potential user error as the culprit initially lol)Just to confirm from your Post #44 ...THESE Images are of your Old, "Swapped Out" Motor...Correct?
View attachment 111266View attachment 111267
Because if not... THIS Closeup of the back of the LS Block looks like it has a Problem...
View attachment 111268
Best Practices for Prepping Used Engines prior to installation should always include replacing the Rusted Out Steel Freeze Plugs...with BRASS Ones... Melling carries these via RockAuto described in this PDF:
2001 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 5.3L V8 Expansion Plug | RockAuto
RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.www.rockauto.com
Best Non-Hardening Freeze Plug Sealant:
Engine Block Frost and Freeze Plug Sealer Shellac PERMATEX 2 oz | eBay
New Permatex shellac. Shellac is commonly used to seal engine freeze plugs, cam plugs and frost plugs. 2 oz bottle with applicator.www.ebay.com
View attachment 111270
*edited incline steepness
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This Is Very Important...
If anyone intends upon working on ANY LS Engine...whether a Brand New Crate Engine, a Complete Re-Build or as in THIS Case...a Speciously Sourced Engine Swap... You should get serious about REALLY knowing WTF you are DOING...!
And to that end...in addition to the Tens of Thousands of YouTube Videos available online that will answer MOST of your questions ...almost down to the level of "Holding Your Hand"...You should be READING MORE about this Engine Platform from your own GM OEM Shop-Service Manual... so you don't keep getting into trouble.
THIS is the kind of LS Engine Training Book that you WANT to get your hands on:
Get IT... Read IT... Then ...READ IT AGAIN!
Moving Back On Topic...
The Freeze Plugs in the LS Engine are well described below by "George from Melling". He will take you through the processes and Kit variations. As ever ...you should be reading directly from your own GM Factory OEM Service Manual for the specifics about your 2001 GM LS LM7 Cast Iron Motor (with Aluminum Engine Heads):
:
This is what can happen if anyone is too casual with their Swap Engine Prepping and suffers from "A COMPLETE Failure of Imagination" that usually follows on from using Poor Engine Building or Prep Procedures:
More Technical Insights:
BRASS CORE PLUGS...ONLY Guys!
PERMATEX Part # 80017 AVIATION #3D FORM-A-GASKET ...FTW!
Do your Homework...Thoroughly... and anticipate that whomever owns ANY of these Swap Motors are not necessarily "Considerate Mechanics" and to be very suspicious of any internal engine conditions that you should always address well before you ever just "Drop in a Swap Motor".
If anyone intends upon working on ANY LS Engine...whether a Brand New Crate Engine, a Complete Re-Build or as in THIS Case...a Speciously Sourced Engine Swap... You should get serious about REALLY knowing WTF you are DOING...!
And to that end...in addition to the Tens of Thousands of YouTube Videos available online that will answer MOST of your questions ...almost down to the level of "Holding Your Hand"...You should be READING MORE about this Engine Platform from your own GM OEM Shop-Service Manual... so you don't keep getting into trouble.
THIS is the kind of LS Engine Training Book that you WANT to get your hands on:
How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines (S-A Design): Chris Werner: 8601400505274: Amazon.com: Books
How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines (S-A Design) [Chris Werner] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines (S-A Design)
www.amazon.com
Get IT... Read IT... Then ...READ IT AGAIN!
Moving Back On Topic...
The Freeze Plugs in the LS Engine are well described below by "George from Melling". He will take you through the processes and Kit variations. As ever ...you should be reading directly from your own GM Factory OEM Service Manual for the specifics about your 2001 GM LS LM7 Cast Iron Motor (with Aluminum Engine Heads):
:
This is what can happen if anyone is too casual with their Swap Engine Prepping and suffers from "A COMPLETE Failure of Imagination" that usually follows on from using Poor Engine Building or Prep Procedures:
More Technical Insights:
BRASS CORE PLUGS...ONLY Guys!
PERMATEX Part # 80017 AVIATION #3D FORM-A-GASKET ...FTW!
Do your Homework...Thoroughly... and anticipate that whomever owns ANY of these Swap Motors are not necessarily "Considerate Mechanics" and to be very suspicious of any internal engine conditions that you should always address well before you ever just "Drop in a Swap Motor".
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Sooooo, to be fair .....this was not an "swap to upgrade" or me trying to turn my truck into a street hot rodder; this was a catastrophic failure that was thrust onto me and my daily driver, I am not a wealthy person and this was the ONLY option available to me. I didnt wake up and say , "hey lets go eff around with a perfectly running truck and see what we can do to make it fall apart." This was brought about by necessity and the ONLY way for me to preserve my livelihood, as i said, i have (extremely) limitied funds and even more limited time. That all being said in the weeks that i was in forced immobility I read, and pursued any content i could get my hands on and THOUGHT myself prepared. But apparently a project such as this imitates life in that you dont even know what you dont know UNTIL u are in the weeds, i appreciate the references to assist. It can be tough to admit ones failures to people and peers and strangers but i have tried to own the things i did wrong here, one can only do the best they can. Thanks again for the suggestions, i will try and obtain a copy.....
Also just as an aside, I have purchased mitchell1 diy, and have followed it when i could to the letter, it doesnt have a section titled "step by step instructions to swap an engine" and as far as one "knowing wtf" their doing or not, thats why im here , as someone who already knows "wtf their doing" wouldnt need to consult you or anyone here and waste their clearly valuable time. I came to gmtnation out of ALL the other resources and forums because i found yall to be helpful and non judgmental. im learning as i go. there are many who wouldve sold the truck for scrap and moved on with their life, perhaps i was a fool not to. there are many who would not have frozen their skin off in 4 degree weather working 8 plus hours a day and into the early morning on this, and maybe ive been a fool to do so. but please dont make me feel more a fool for coming here when i know i needed help. not super helpful either to tell someone, "hey, you didnt prepare for this well enough" AFTER the fact; you think im unaware of this?? Regardless, by far not the most helpful of commentary, but i appreciate the resource suggestions.
Moving on, it seems the reconditioned heads I bought DO have they core plugs installed, the leak is POURING from where i show in the pictures attached,now, If those here feel this is not the forum for me to be seeking assistance, please advise on a forum better suited, or if you all could point me towards the "i thought i knew what i was doing but clearly dont" thread that would also be super helpful, attached is a photo showing where the fluid is coming out,passenger rear side of the head just above exhaust manifold. AS ALWAYS thanks in advance for anyone's time and feedback
Attachments
That hole, per this picture...
.. Is supposed to be a threaded plug. You should be able to take one off your old engine, and thread it in.
Or you could buy one??
www.speedinc.com
Looks like its maybe a 8mm??
GM part # 11610259
.. Is supposed to be a threaded plug. You should be able to take one off your old engine, and thread it in.
Or you could buy one??
LSx Cylinder Head Coolant Plug
This often missing cylinder head plug is located to the left of the rear exhaust port on the passenger side. Will work on the driver side but that is typically where the coolant temperature sensor is located. USA made. Fits all LS1 LS2 LS6 LS3 LS7 LSA LS9 cylinder heads
www.speedinc.com
Looks like its maybe a 8mm??
GM part # 11610259
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Alternatively, if you have your old engine available, and you cant get that plug out on the passenger side...
You can go to the drivers side, on the front of the head will be the temperature sensor. It will also be able to thread in there.
You can go to the drivers side, on the front of the head will be the temperature sensor. It will also be able to thread in there.
That book cost almost 30 bucks. i spent my last thirty bucks to get one of the gaskets for this job. thanks anyway.
MY MAN, ty brother , yup youre right, okay goin outside now, ty ty tyThat hole, per this picture...
View attachment 111316
.. Is supposed to be a threaded plug. You should be able to take one off your old engine, and thread it in.
Or you could buy one??
LSx Cylinder Head Coolant Plug
This often missing cylinder head plug is located to the left of the rear exhaust port on the passenger side. Will work on the driver side but that is typically where the coolant temperature sensor is located. USA made. Fits all LS1 LS2 LS6 LS3 LS7 LSA LS9 cylinder heads
Looks like its maybe a 8mm??
GM part # 11610259
Dont forget to Teflon tape, or pipe dope, those threads!
Check to make sure it threads in cleanly first.. Then tape, and secure that plug!
oddly enough im at a crank no start condition now, but no fluid leaking 
lol i had to double take on that second photo, as it is a mirror image of my in laws garage like two weeks ago (bless them)That hole, per this picture...
View attachment 111316
.. Is supposed to be a threaded plug. You should be able to take one off your old engine, and thread it in.
Or you could buy one??
LSx Cylinder Head Coolant Plug
This often missing cylinder head plug is located to the left of the rear exhaust port on the passenger side. Will work on the driver side but that is typically where the coolant temperature sensor is located. USA made. Fits all LS1 LS2 LS6 LS3 LS7 LSA LS9 cylinder heads
Looks like its maybe a 8mm??
GM part # 11610259
shows battery, then low fuel then security, keeps alternating those
Mooseman
Moderator
okay , so i didnt have to do the security relearn, basically i hadnt attached one of the grounds off the harness to the driver side head were the ground strap is ( i think its g104 or 105), so anyway, i bolted it to the head and also realized i had incorrectly bolted the other ground thats supposed to be grounded to the rear of the passenger side head, so i fixed that is well.......so now, it is starting......however.......it went from VERY rough ragged running and backfiring as well as dying quickly to now , starting up but and staying on ......but heres the issue(s). For one , it still doesnt sound right , cadence is asymmitric, very up and down .....also it is idling VERY high 2k rpm at minimum and at point it seems to rev pretty high, like im giving it throttle but of course im not. the other major thing is that theres a sound , like air escapig from around the intake manifold, it immediaytely stops when engine is turned off, seems to be coming from what i believe to be coming from the device atop the intake manifold( i think its the evap device), i swapped it with the same device from my old engine,m but it didnt help, perhaps a bad gasket...... So heres my thoughts, and please let me know what, if any of them(or none) hold merit.... First is that the crankhaft pos sensor may be faulty or not connected , today has been busy so i have been unable to test or even locate it for certain....., i did verify the position sensor on the rear of the block (next to the oil pressure switch) was connected well......the other thing is that perhaps some dirt or debris got in this engine and is jacking it up , and lastly, perhaps the timing is off and i need to adjust the timing with a light ......thanks as always in advance, im very hopeful that this job cn still be salvaged......the good news is that i saw no bad smoke from exhaust , and no leaks ......so maybe it ill be okay
Sounds like a classic bad vacuum leak.
Check your air intake hose to plenum
Check your pcv line
Check your brake booster line
Check your map sensor
Check your fuel return line
It's none of those other things you mentioned
Check your air intake hose to plenum
Check your pcv line
Check your brake booster line
Check your map sensor
Check your fuel return line
It's none of those other things you mentioned