Mooseman
Moderator
Yes, definitely. You can do this yourself. A compression test cannot break anything beyond what may already be broken. If you don't have a tester, they are fairly cheap at HF or even rent one free from the parts store.
Engine swap for 07 saab97x 5.3i need advice on used engine please
- Thread starter Sprung Monkey
- Start date
OK I’ll do the compression test first. I ordered the tool from amazon.
1.should I remove all odd #ed spark plugs? Remember it’s cylinder one that has a suspected broken valve spring. and it’s Definity the odd cylinder side that’s creating the noises. can I get away w/ testing just the odds? Looks kindof tight on the even pass. Side.
Turn engine over 3 times is sufficient?
I assume the drive belt can be left off for compression test?
2.what PSI should I expect? I know on boat engines manufactors PSI differs a lot just so there w/in 10% of each other is the key.
I’ve been dreading any procedure that requires TDC, I get confussed on the 2 TDC exhaust & intake. refreshed my memory w/ a couple videos.
Observe intake at it’s highest point, keep turning crank clockwise(?) until exhaust gets to highest point now both rocker arms are at highest point = both valves closed.
Plan to stuff rope into spark plug hole if I have to remove valve spring, I have the valve spring compressor tool.thanks
1.should I remove all odd #ed spark plugs? Remember it’s cylinder one that has a suspected broken valve spring. and it’s Definity the odd cylinder side that’s creating the noises. can I get away w/ testing just the odds? Looks kindof tight on the even pass. Side.
Turn engine over 3 times is sufficient?
I assume the drive belt can be left off for compression test?
2.what PSI should I expect? I know on boat engines manufactors PSI differs a lot just so there w/in 10% of each other is the key.
I’ve been dreading any procedure that requires TDC, I get confussed on the 2 TDC exhaust & intake. refreshed my memory w/ a couple videos.
Observe intake at it’s highest point, keep turning crank clockwise(?) until exhaust gets to highest point now both rocker arms are at highest point = both valves closed.
Plan to stuff rope into spark plug hole if I have to remove valve spring, I have the valve spring compressor tool.thanks
Mooseman
Moderator
Remove ALL spark plugs and get readings from all 8 of them. This is so you can compare. It's not so much how many PSI but the difference between them. I think the limit is a 10% difference between the highest and lowest.
Without looking at my manual, I would expect something between 90-150 PSI. I know on the 4.2 I get between 230 and 250 PSI but it's a higher compression engine.
Dont forget, you will also have wet compression test readings, and dry.
easyautodiagnostics.com
How To Do A Compression Test (GM 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L)
GM 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L Index of Articles
If memory serves correctly, perfect compression would be up around 170psi.. But I cant confirm this anywhere at the moment.
tested odd cylinders only wasn't able to access the evens.
According to my compression test guage 8 bar = 120psi 9 bar=130psi so I’m w/in 10%
Would this indicate a valve isn’t broken and all odd valves are sealing as they should?
Wasn’t able to disconnect the mas air meters electrical plug from MAS even w/ the retaining clip removed so I didn’t proceed to test the even cylinder compression.not much room to fit a hand in there to grab a spark plug boot dam it's tight on driver side. thanks for advice.
Maybe I can just move on stuff rope into suspected cylinder #1 and remove the suspected valve spring?
According to my compression test guage 8 bar = 120psi 9 bar=130psi so I’m w/in 10%
Would this indicate a valve isn’t broken and all odd valves are sealing as they should?
Wasn’t able to disconnect the mas air meters electrical plug from MAS even w/ the retaining clip removed so I didn’t proceed to test the even cylinder compression.not much room to fit a hand in there to grab a spark plug boot dam it's tight on driver side. thanks for advice.
Maybe I can just move on stuff rope into suspected cylinder #1 and remove the suspected valve spring?
Attachments
tollkeeper thanks for compresion instructions
I didn't dissconect the fuel injector fuse all I did was dissconnect the coils white plug in middle of valve covers both odd & even to prevent ignition
didn't know about wet/dry tests will read up on the 2.
additionalley I turned the engine over 3 times which usally increased PSI a tad.
the battery was weak but did turn over engine.
I didn't dissconect the fuel injector fuse all I did was dissconnect the coils white plug in middle of valve covers both odd & even to prevent ignition
didn't know about wet/dry tests will read up on the 2.
additionalley I turned the engine over 3 times which usally increased PSI a tad.
the battery was weak but did turn over engine.
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Mooseman
Moderator
I didn't find access to the pass side plugs to be more difficult than the driver side. I'd get that compression test all done.
Compression test seems fine for odd side anyway.
Not sure why you're fixated on that valve spring. Unless you can see that it's broken, I wouldn't suspect it.
Compression test seems fine for odd side anyway.
Not sure why you're fixated on that valve spring. Unless you can see that it's broken, I wouldn't suspect it.
I’ll try to remove the even spark plugs can’t reach my hand in #2 & 4. are all the evens removed from the top? On my car #8 must be removed from underneath by brail feel method.
1.how important is it to disconnect the #1 fuel injectors fuse. I didn’t, just the coils on valve cover where disconnected.
2.what all is removed to access the pass. Side spark plugs. Like air cleaner box.couple of silver tubes.
3. Since I don’t have low (on odds) compression is a wet test still required?
4. do you use a spark plug boot grabber tool to remove the SP boots?
I have trouble w/ these GM electrical terminations (broke the cylinder head temp clip off accessing #1) like right now the MAS seams stuck on MAS even w/ the retaining clip removed don’t want to break it.thanks for advice
edit: not fixated on the valve spring being broken (just hoping for it) someone on fakebook observed the spring "bouncing at it's base"
1.how important is it to disconnect the #1 fuel injectors fuse. I didn’t, just the coils on valve cover where disconnected.
2.what all is removed to access the pass. Side spark plugs. Like air cleaner box.couple of silver tubes.
3. Since I don’t have low (on odds) compression is a wet test still required?
4. do you use a spark plug boot grabber tool to remove the SP boots?
I have trouble w/ these GM electrical terminations (broke the cylinder head temp clip off accessing #1) like right now the MAS seams stuck on MAS even w/ the retaining clip removed don’t want to break it.thanks for advice
edit: not fixated on the valve spring being broken (just hoping for it) someone on fakebook observed the spring "bouncing at it's base"
Mooseman
Moderator
I don't even bother with the ignition key at all to crank the engine. I just jump the starter relay to crank it.
It's been a while but I think just the air cleaner box, washer/coolant tank should be enough.
All depends on results. It could tell the overall health of the engine if the compression increases dramatically on the wet test, which would indicate worn rings.
I don't. Just grab, twist and pull.
I rewatched your videos and I don't see any evidence of that.
I tried to reread the thread and there was just too much. At first, it was a knocking noise and now we're looking for what exactly? If it's still that knocking noise, you have to go back and reread those posts. Lots of things were discussed and have yet to get confirmation that those things were checked.
That works just find, but how do you hold the throttle open while jumping the relays?
Mooseman
Moderator
Actually I was looking/hoping something is broken in the cylinder head, like push rod, valve spring, rocker even a lifter just something that’s not in the bottom end. I can do a cylinder head not sure about whole engine w/ AWD.
Refresh the initial fluttering noise you suspected a cracked flywheel, I’ve yet to crawl back under the vehicle and pry at the torque converter opening to test flywheel.
It’s not really a knocking but a pinging noise that increases in speed at same idel RPM.
I don’t mind walking around to enter vehicle to turn over w/ key but What pins to jump on starter relay?and do you turn over 3 times?
didn't know the throttle needs to be open maybe I should just keep it as simply as possible and continue w/ key.
I’ve been grabbing and wiggleing up/down on the spark plug boot, they have little tabs I assume this or lower is the grab point.
they seam to be on extremely tight, should there be heat protection on the boots nun of my have the heat protection.I’ll try to twist on the next evens. I used to have a tool that fit on bottom of boot didn’t grab like boot pliers worked like a charm.
Heres a video w/out the drive belt I thought maybe the assy. Pulleys where making noise.I still hear the same noises.
07 envoy 5.3 engine ticking - YouTube
Thanks I’ll report back.
Refresh the initial fluttering noise you suspected a cracked flywheel, I’ve yet to crawl back under the vehicle and pry at the torque converter opening to test flywheel.
It’s not really a knocking but a pinging noise that increases in speed at same idel RPM.
I don’t mind walking around to enter vehicle to turn over w/ key but What pins to jump on starter relay?and do you turn over 3 times?
didn't know the throttle needs to be open maybe I should just keep it as simply as possible and continue w/ key.
I’ve been grabbing and wiggleing up/down on the spark plug boot, they have little tabs I assume this or lower is the grab point.
they seam to be on extremely tight, should there be heat protection on the boots nun of my have the heat protection.I’ll try to twist on the next evens. I used to have a tool that fit on bottom of boot didn’t grab like boot pliers worked like a charm.
Heres a video w/out the drive belt I thought maybe the assy. Pulleys where making noise.I still hear the same noises.
07 envoy 5.3 engine ticking - YouTube
Thanks I’ll report back.
Multiple pushrods are not producing oil flow (check out the video at 0:56, screenshot below). Either low oil pressure or blocked pushrods. Collapsed/collapsing lifters are also going to make this kind of noise as the lifters/pushrods bang around between the cam and rockers.
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yes azswiss exactly what I observe in video (I wanted to be quick w/ the video to prevent even more damage) also not much room to get good shot w/ camera
yes no oiling though push rods 3, & 5 and maybe 7 I do observe oil ozzing out #1
I have removed #1 push rods they are straight rolled on a flat surface and unobstructed w/ filth or sludge.
did you notice the low oil pressure prior to ignition then it builds to normal mooseman thinks as others do the oil pump pick up tubes O ring is not sealing and pump starts off by sucking air.
it sure would be easier for me to inspect the remaining odd push rods or for easyness pull head and inspect lifters.
I still haven't figured out how to remove the starter in order to lock down the flywheel.
even #ed spark plug video explains alot
This man knows what he’s doing.I’m learning remember this vehcle is new to me doing any work on. Dam even w/ a boot grabber he still ruined the wire.
Dam I always thought the white dielectric grease went on the metal connecter of SP wire
Now Andy here says it’s just for the boot.
How To Replace Spark Plugs & Ignition Wires - Chevy Trailblazer 5.3L (Andy’s Garage: Episode - 240) - YouTube
Looks like I’ll need a flex racket & flex extension. Plus spark plug boot grabbers.
Fender liner plastic pin removal tools.
Wasn’t expecting to have to remove pass. Upper control arm.
#2 is such a PITA he just skipped over it. Not critizeing Andy he made a decent video.
How to change GMC Envoy sparkplugs v8.wmv - YouTube
Now this man seems a bit smarter he acess’s #8 & #6 though the fender liner flap. my van has the same flap for all plugs.
Those dam liners never go back on the same as taken off.
I think on #6 he used a universal joint at the spark plug socket and a extra long extention
( have a 3/8 universal) not sure what he used for #8.
#4 outside flap long extension w/ universal at socket. w/ upper control arm still attached.
As slick as this man was he also cut short #2 he left me w/ yes remove air box and washer resolver (as mooseman says) then go in though the top.
Additionally:
When the flap is lifted, I see a nipple I believe there’s a flap hole that slips over said nipple to hold it up outtof the way if true (good work GM designers)
Is it absolutely necessary to have the heat shields mine has nun?
I'll get back on it and report back.
yes no oiling though push rods 3, & 5 and maybe 7 I do observe oil ozzing out #1
I have removed #1 push rods they are straight rolled on a flat surface and unobstructed w/ filth or sludge.
did you notice the low oil pressure prior to ignition then it builds to normal mooseman thinks as others do the oil pump pick up tubes O ring is not sealing and pump starts off by sucking air.
it sure would be easier for me to inspect the remaining odd push rods or for easyness pull head and inspect lifters.
I still haven't figured out how to remove the starter in order to lock down the flywheel.
even #ed spark plug video explains alot
This man knows what he’s doing.I’m learning remember this vehcle is new to me doing any work on. Dam even w/ a boot grabber he still ruined the wire.
Dam I always thought the white dielectric grease went on the metal connecter of SP wire
Now Andy here says it’s just for the boot.
How To Replace Spark Plugs & Ignition Wires - Chevy Trailblazer 5.3L (Andy’s Garage: Episode - 240) - YouTube
Looks like I’ll need a flex racket & flex extension. Plus spark plug boot grabbers.
Fender liner plastic pin removal tools.
Wasn’t expecting to have to remove pass. Upper control arm.
#2 is such a PITA he just skipped over it. Not critizeing Andy he made a decent video.
How to change GMC Envoy sparkplugs v8.wmv - YouTube
Now this man seems a bit smarter he acess’s #8 & #6 though the fender liner flap. my van has the same flap for all plugs.
Those dam liners never go back on the same as taken off.
I think on #6 he used a universal joint at the spark plug socket and a extra long extention
( have a 3/8 universal) not sure what he used for #8.
#4 outside flap long extension w/ universal at socket. w/ upper control arm still attached.
As slick as this man was he also cut short #2 he left me w/ yes remove air box and washer resolver (as mooseman says) then go in though the top.
Additionally:
When the flap is lifted, I see a nipple I believe there’s a flap hole that slips over said nipple to hold it up outtof the way if true (good work GM designers)
Is it absolutely necessary to have the heat shields mine has nun?
I'll get back on it and report back.
Update I was watching this video Lifter Release Trick Collapsed Lifter AFM DOD GM Chevrolet Lifter Noise, Engine Knock Sound - YouTube
He explains a lot about lifters.
Screen shot is him lifting up on the rocker arm of stuck lifter.
I just tried lifting up on all my odd lifters none lifted up however to aft most lifter #7 I was able to slide it forward & backward also did this on aft most on #5 and on aft most #1
I can't blame this for oiling but can blame these loose rockers for the pinging knocking noises. I'll be centering then on valve stem & tightening them up
It’s as if they have worked themselves loose.
All other rocker arms don’t slide back and forth (not up & down as they normal motion) but forward & back just a tiny bit.
Didn’t observe the piece that holds the needle bearing missing.
He explains a lot about lifters.
Screen shot is him lifting up on the rocker arm of stuck lifter.
I just tried lifting up on all my odd lifters none lifted up however to aft most lifter #7 I was able to slide it forward & backward also did this on aft most on #5 and on aft most #1
I can't blame this for oiling but can blame these loose rockers for the pinging knocking noises. I'll be centering then on valve stem & tightening them up
It’s as if they have worked themselves loose.
All other rocker arms don’t slide back and forth (not up & down as they normal motion) but forward & back just a tiny bit.
Didn’t observe the piece that holds the needle bearing missing.
Attachments
Mooseman
Moderator
Looking at the videos again, oil pressure looks fine to me. Oil pressure does not increase instantly. Hell, that's better pressure than in my Avalanche before I swapped out the oil pump and about the same after. To really check for oil not coming out of the rockers, I'd rev it higher for a while.
I don't know what he's smoking because I never had to do that on mine. I say pull the air cleaner duct and remove the coolant/washer tank and you'll have your room. Maybe just #8 you might have to go through that little flap in the wheelwell but that's it.
I'm still of the opinion that you MUST check your flexplate for that noise. I think the no oil from the rocker is a red herring.
OK I'll crawl under there and check flex plate.
what I disscribe about some of the rockers being able to slide a tiny bit forward and backward can't be normal?
toll keeper I only checked cylinder #1 push rods and yes I could blow air though each and they rolled straight. plan to check the rest of the odds.
Update the 97x has been parked in driveway since,mid Dec I never completed the compression on the pass.side Even side of engine, didn’t think I could get # 2 spark plug out did think I could get 4,6 &8.
so if I couldn't get all of them out whats the point still aincomplete compression test.
I bought some more sockets and plan to check the push rods for straightness and cloggedness.
I drained the water in the rad. Back in Dec. the drive belt has been removed.
I moved it to the backyard was concerned some a$$hole would drill a hole in the gas tank and run off w/ some old stale gas.
Anyway when she cranked that first fluttering sound that (mooseman thinks is a cracked flywheel ) has gone away however the diogne sound is still there.think I'll take another video so we can compare.
I have the drive belt off I thought maybe a pulley was making the fluttering sound.
Maybe the water pump was making the fluttering sound?
so if I couldn't get all of them out whats the point still aincomplete compression test.
I bought some more sockets and plan to check the push rods for straightness and cloggedness.
I drained the water in the rad. Back in Dec. the drive belt has been removed.
I moved it to the backyard was concerned some a$$hole would drill a hole in the gas tank and run off w/ some old stale gas.
Anyway when she cranked that first fluttering sound that (mooseman thinks is a cracked flywheel ) has gone away however the diogne sound is still there.think I'll take another video so we can compare.
I have the drive belt off I thought maybe a pulley was making the fluttering sound.
Maybe the water pump was making the fluttering sound?
Mooseman
Moderator
Wrist pin or rod bearing. That loud bang you hear occasionally is the piston slapping the head. Stop running it if you have any plans for this motor
^ yes you make alot of sense the extra play w/ the connecting rod allows the piston to bounce off head making that noise however thats just one of problley three noises.
yes I would like to continue w/ this motor if possible.
I was talking to a mechanic we discussed your opinion of the rods bearings.
he said that one problem cylinder can be bored then simply reassemble the rest.
is this true or false to boring just one cylinder? I thought when boring you must bore all cylinders?
I've never had any machine shop work done so I don't know what to expect. thanks tollkeeper for advice
mooseman I thought the situation improved not worsened either way the motor needs pulling out? also found out we have an alternative to pull a part called U pull it $480. for a 5.3 but they want your old motor, I was actually wanting to keep the 799 heads. thanks
yes I would like to continue w/ this motor if possible.
I was talking to a mechanic we discussed your opinion of the rods bearings.
he said that one problem cylinder can be bored then simply reassemble the rest.
is this true or false to boring just one cylinder? I thought when boring you must bore all cylinders?
I've never had any machine shop work done so I don't know what to expect. thanks tollkeeper for advice
mooseman I thought the situation improved not worsened either way the motor needs pulling out? also found out we have an alternative to pull a part called U pull it $480. for a 5.3 but they want your old motor, I was actually wanting to keep the 799 heads. thanks
Yes you can just repair the one cylinder, its called the poor mans rebuild.
For you, its going to require the same amount of work whether you just rebuild the one cylinder, or all 8, since you are having a machine shop do the work.
You might get lucky with a junkyard engine, you might not. Junkyard engines are always a gamble. Unless I can hear it run, from a cold start, before I buy it, I am not interested. Most of the LS engines have problems on start up. Mine for example has a bad rod bearing, but you will only know it on cold start up. Once the engine gets lubed up, the high volume oil pump quiets the bearing right up. Been doing it for 120-130k miles now. I think @Mooseman had the same thing on his 9-7x, until the bearing finally let go.
You having a 07 engine, means you have quite a few options if you want to go the used route.
05-06 GMT360 are not compatible for you as they are 24x with AFM/DOD
02-06 GMT360 are also not compatible for you as they are 24x
There is a interchange chart, but these are only suggestions, and not the rule. Its up to you to find the correct engine for your build.
My personal opinion, if you go the route of finding a replacement engine, since you have a 07, with AFM/DOD and a 58x, is a LH8 VIN L engine. None of the Stupid AFM/DOD, and still a 58x, and a aluminum engine.
Speaking of which, I am on my way to pick up my new to me 9-7x V8 right now.. See ya Monday!
For you, its going to require the same amount of work whether you just rebuild the one cylinder, or all 8, since you are having a machine shop do the work.
You might get lucky with a junkyard engine, you might not. Junkyard engines are always a gamble. Unless I can hear it run, from a cold start, before I buy it, I am not interested. Most of the LS engines have problems on start up. Mine for example has a bad rod bearing, but you will only know it on cold start up. Once the engine gets lubed up, the high volume oil pump quiets the bearing right up. Been doing it for 120-130k miles now. I think @Mooseman had the same thing on his 9-7x, until the bearing finally let go.
You having a 07 engine, means you have quite a few options if you want to go the used route.
05-06 GMT360 are not compatible for you as they are 24x with AFM/DOD
02-06 GMT360 are also not compatible for you as they are 24x
There is a interchange chart, but these are only suggestions, and not the rule. Its up to you to find the correct engine for your build.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/05/LS-LT-Reference-Guide-Summit-Racing.pdf
My personal opinion, if you go the route of finding a replacement engine, since you have a 07, with AFM/DOD and a 58x, is a LH8 VIN L engine. None of the Stupid AFM/DOD, and still a 58x, and a aluminum engine.
Speaking of which, I am on my way to pick up my new to me 9-7x V8 right now.. See ya Monday!
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the wrist pin is where the rod connects to the piston and has needle bearing & the rod bearing is just like cam bearing wrapes around the crank correct?
I'm assuming the machine shop has a fee for just inspecting what's that usually cost?
yes I'm leary of a used JY engine it could be worst off than what I have, if current engine is toast JK is still an option.
the man that's gonna help me expects me to pay for the engine before he pulls it. what are the chances we hear it cold start an run at a JY like U pull it?thanks
edit: excellent info on the summit engine specs.
I'm assuming the machine shop has a fee for just inspecting what's that usually cost?
yes I'm leary of a used JY engine it could be worst off than what I have, if current engine is toast JK is still an option.
the man that's gonna help me expects me to pay for the engine before he pulls it. what are the chances we hear it cold start an run at a JY like U pull it?thanks
edit: excellent info on the summit engine specs.
No idea how much it costs for the inspection, every shop charges different rates, and charge based on the quality of work they do.
I can't remember about the bearings, been a minute (14 years) since I have been in a engine. That does sound right thou.
I can't remember about the bearings, been a minute (14 years) since I have been in a engine. That does sound right thou.
Mooseman
Moderator
It's not easy to get a U-pull yard engine running. You would need to bring a tuned PCM that will ignore the security, a little gas or starting fluid to squirt in the throttle, a booster pack and most of the wiring still intact. And it won't really "run" for a long time.
Not the same year or model but the idea is the same.
Not the same year or model but the idea is the same.
I am pretty sure you dont have a stuck lifter, after working on my 9-7x today...
Here is mine for reference... Its quite distinguishable a tick, vs a clunk...
Here is mine for reference... Its quite distinguishable a tick, vs a clunk...
Mooseman
Moderator
haven't sean above yet will later, I'm sure you Guys are correct.
If I’m able to find a donor vehicle there seams to be an abundance of envoys.
I’m expanding my search. LKQ has used engines 6 month guantee kinkof pricey, milage determines price.plus it’s a stripped down engine a long block they want around $2500-$3000 then remove $1K of parts.
A donor sounds much better, like I’ll have to pull my engine mite as well pull a donors. Then sell off the stuff not wanted cheap keep wearable stuff as spares.
I would rather have a used gm engine than a example: jasper rebuilt w/ chinese parts.
Doe’s a roller (basically the body w/ out engine /trans/rear end of a areo have any value at a pull a part, bc they pick up the remains.
A donor vehicle mite be best option I’m looking at (mooseman is correct when previously adviced the 8th digit M doe’s in fact go back to 05) 05-09 GMC Envoys w/ 8th digit M, I assume the buick rainier also has the M? I believe isuso made a 360gmt? + trailblazer made a 5.3.
I believe the gmt360 is small enough to fit on a convensionale car dolley? So I could pull driveshafts rent a truck or hire someone rent a dolly to avoid the transporters.
I was leary of a donor in the back yard bc the city is itching to fine ppl it’s been raining for a extended time mine and surrounding neibors lawns are over grown not by much but these devils issue tickets of $150.they post a warning next to mailbox, are city has new mayor/management
I see the junk yard lists the gmc envoy as a 4x4 an the saabs as awd are the envoys real 4x4 where the front axel doesn’t go though the oil pan? An the driver can switch 2 wheel to 4 wheel from inside the driver seat?
can a 2 wheel drive 5.3 oil pan be removed w/ engine still installed? like maybe loose motor mounts and elevate engine enoungh.
I compare the buick rainier to saab97x rears and besides the slite grove in rainiers side of rear bumber cover they appear identical in the rear, the buick would be the preferred 360gmt I like the front end, if I find a rear ended one or one that needs a trans.
So I’m considering all my options.
.thanks Guys for advice.
If I’m able to find a donor vehicle there seams to be an abundance of envoys.
I’m expanding my search. LKQ has used engines 6 month guantee kinkof pricey, milage determines price.plus it’s a stripped down engine a long block they want around $2500-$3000 then remove $1K of parts.
A donor sounds much better, like I’ll have to pull my engine mite as well pull a donors. Then sell off the stuff not wanted cheap keep wearable stuff as spares.
I would rather have a used gm engine than a example: jasper rebuilt w/ chinese parts.
Doe’s a roller (basically the body w/ out engine /trans/rear end of a areo have any value at a pull a part, bc they pick up the remains.
A donor vehicle mite be best option I’m looking at (mooseman is correct when previously adviced the 8th digit M doe’s in fact go back to 05) 05-09 GMC Envoys w/ 8th digit M, I assume the buick rainier also has the M? I believe isuso made a 360gmt? + trailblazer made a 5.3.
I believe the gmt360 is small enough to fit on a convensionale car dolley? So I could pull driveshafts rent a truck or hire someone rent a dolly to avoid the transporters.
I was leary of a donor in the back yard bc the city is itching to fine ppl it’s been raining for a extended time mine and surrounding neibors lawns are over grown not by much but these devils issue tickets of $150.they post a warning next to mailbox, are city has new mayor/management
I see the junk yard lists the gmc envoy as a 4x4 an the saabs as awd are the envoys real 4x4 where the front axel doesn’t go though the oil pan? An the driver can switch 2 wheel to 4 wheel from inside the driver seat?
can a 2 wheel drive 5.3 oil pan be removed w/ engine still installed? like maybe loose motor mounts and elevate engine enoungh.
I compare the buick rainier to saab97x rears and besides the slite grove in rainiers side of rear bumber cover they appear identical in the rear, the buick would be the preferred 360gmt I like the front end, if I find a rear ended one or one that needs a trans.
So I’m considering all my options.
.thanks Guys for advice.
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rainier & saab rear ends & doors appear the same.
the license plate trim is different don't care if the liftgate bolts on the same. so basicelly I have a rear clip & doors.
the license plate trim is different don't care if the liftgate bolts on the same. so basicelly I have a rear clip & doors.
Attachments
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Mooseman
Moderator
A donor vehicle would be a good option and I'm sure you can avoid the lawn cops if you strip it and get rid of the carcass fast enough. Just be sure you get a good running V8 motor.
Here are the models that would work:
Chevy Trailblazer
GMC Envoy
Buick Rainier
Saab 9-7x (of course)
Isuzu Ascender
All parts are interchangeable.
Here are the models that would work:
Chevy Trailblazer
GMC Envoy
Buick Rainier
Saab 9-7x (of course)
Isuzu Ascender
All parts are interchangeable.
NO NO...
Just because it has a M code, does not mean its interchangeable.
The M Engines changed DRASTICLY half way thru production.
2005-2006 are 24x and are considered Gen 3.5 (stop gap production)
2007-2009 are 58x and are considered Gen 4
The VIN H engines found in the Trailblazer SS and Aero are also the same way
These engines are NOT interchangeable (24x to 58x), and cant really be modified to work without a compete engine tear down.
You having a 2007 means you can only use 58x engines, 2007-2010.
Here is a reference guide for you.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/05/LS-LT-Reference-Guide-Summit-Racing.pdf
I have a VIN code M 24x 2006 model, and have researched this extensively when I had the DOD failure.
You can look at pretty much any GM LS powered vehicle. Your big concerns are going to be making sure its a 58x, and the intake ports match watch you have so you can carry over the intake.. Also make sure its NOT a VVT engine, as you cant run that.
Edit: I think a VIN code L LH8 is your best option. Loose the crappy AFM/DOD, and is a direct swap once your swap the VLOM (modified), intake manifolds, and exhaust manifolds. The V8 exhaust manifolds are specific to the GMT360. Then send the PCM out for a tune to delete the AFM/DOD, and your set.
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If you wanted to keep it on the cheap, you could find a LY2 Vin code C. Its a slightly smaller engine, 4.8 instead of a 5.3. But is still a direct swap. Main difference, other than the displacement, its a Iron Engine, so its about 100lbs heavier.
according to this link 2003 Chevy Express - Specs (new-cars.com)03 express LM7 engine has a distributor.
I thought the 03 express was a 1st gen LS which means it has coil to plug ignition.
thats one of the things I mesed up on my 02 van I could never get cylinder 1 on tdc. since then I have vowed to never own a vehicle w/ a distribtor. apparently the 03 2500
doe's have the coil to plug w/ a 6.0.that doesn't help me bc I want a 1500 conversion van.
so when did GM express/savana 1500s get distributorless ignitions? sure hope it was before they came up w/ dod. thanks for advice
I thought the 03 express was a 1st gen LS which means it has coil to plug ignition.
thats one of the things I mesed up on my 02 van I could never get cylinder 1 on tdc. since then I have vowed to never own a vehicle w/ a distribtor. apparently the 03 2500
doe's have the coil to plug w/ a 6.0.that doesn't help me bc I want a 1500 conversion van.
so when did GM express/savana 1500s get distributorless ignitions? sure hope it was before they came up w/ dod. thanks for advice
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