Hello everyone. This is my first post. I hope I put it in the right place. I recently purchased a 2003 Trailblazer LTZ. I’m not quite sure if I have one electrical problem or several. Here is what does not work- both power seats, both heated seats ( switch does not light up when depressed ), key fob, rear wiper, rear defrost, lift gate locks. One of the two license plate bulbs do work. The interior lights did not work when I opened the doors but would work if I pressed the over ride button next to the dimmer and if I turned the dimmer all the way clockwise. The first thing I checked was the fuses under the back seat. All of them ! They all looked good. When doing this, the interior lights were on and then dimmed. They didn’t do this before so while the lights were now dimmer down I opened the drivers back door from the inside and the lights came back on. I climbed out and wondered if the other stuff would work. Sure enough everything now worked ! I did nothing but remove all the fuses one by one and checked each one with my meter on the ohms setting. All were good. Everything worked for a couple days until I went to show my parents my new to me Trailblazer. Now everything but the interior lights do NOT work. First, what is the module next to the rear fuse box ? Second, does anybody think I may need a new LCM module in the liftgate ? I visually looked at the wires in the hinge boot and didn’t see any broken wires but didn’t use a meter on them yet because it’s 20 degrees and snowing out. I rechecked all the fuses again and all are good and that one bulb on the rear plate is still working. The other is probably burned out. Does anybody have any ideas ? Could this be one problem or several ? I would really appreciate any guidance because I’d prefer my wife to drive the Trailblazer in the snow with my grandson, but she can’t reach the pedals now. Sorry for the long post but I wanted to give all the details. Many thanks in advance.
Electrical help needed
- Thread starter Adjustso3
- Start date
Dr.Fiero
Member
Sounds like a few things going on.
But one thing is, the fuses. While they CAN look ok, and even meter out ok - I've been fooled before. Believe it or not, you can get cracks in them (age, vibration, etc). They will partially conduct, then essentially turn into resistors (variable ones at that to further mess with your head!).
Look at the top of them, and you'll see that the leads actually extend out. Stick your meter on DC volts. Meter across the tops of each fuse (WITH a load on that circuit!). You should read 0.00V -- if not, replace the fuse!
But one thing is, the fuses. While they CAN look ok, and even meter out ok - I've been fooled before. Believe it or not, you can get cracks in them (age, vibration, etc). They will partially conduct, then essentially turn into resistors (variable ones at that to further mess with your head!).
Look at the top of them, and you'll see that the leads actually extend out. Stick your meter on DC volts. Meter across the tops of each fuse (WITH a load on that circuit!). You should read 0.00V -- if not, replace the fuse!
Hello Dr. Fiero. Great name ! I actually have an 84 Indy Fiero lol. Would the fuses you’re talking about be the 30 amp fuse or do you mean the mini fuses ? I think this is the one for the seats but don’t have an owners manual yet. One is on the way. It’s just strange that after pulling the fuses everything worked for a couple days. Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.
djthumper
Administrator
@Adjustso3 ...With the extreme cold...and the possibility that they have already salted the local roads... perhaps your Grounds need to be checked out. Those weird overall fluctuations might lead to that being the problem. I think @Mooseman has a Sticky Thread on this subject so you know where all of them are situated.
Small H/J... Are you a member over at www.60degreev6.com ? They have quite a few Fiero Owners there and a great deal posted about your 660 Engine as well. I'm '60dgrzbelow0' on that site...
Small H/J... Are you a member over at www.60degreev6.com ? They have quite a few Fiero Owners there and a great deal posted about your 660 Engine as well. I'm '60dgrzbelow0' on that site...
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Dr.Fiero
Member
100% agree on the grounds. Or lack thereof. They make for a great variable resistor as well. Sometimes just pulling off a single point and sanding it bare can make 20 circuits come back to life. Do yourself a favour and pick up a bottle of Penatrox (c) or equivalent. Coat all your freshly buffed contact points with it before reattaching them. Seals out 'everything' to prevent any further problems down the road, while not affecting the contact.
Reason I question the fuses is just because you say you pulled, replaced, and things started working. The twisting action can sometimes make a marginal fuse work momentarily. So can shitty contact points on the fuse or socket.
As for the name - until about 12 years ago I worked on them 24/7 from a shop out of my house. Probably had a few hundred roll through the door! If you've ever heard of "The FieroHut", that was me. Sold a few custom things I made online, did engine conversions (small blocks, 4.9's, 3800's), did custom PROM's, etc.
Reason I question the fuses is just because you say you pulled, replaced, and things started working. The twisting action can sometimes make a marginal fuse work momentarily. So can shitty contact points on the fuse or socket.
As for the name - until about 12 years ago I worked on them 24/7 from a shop out of my house. Probably had a few hundred roll through the door! If you've ever heard of "The FieroHut", that was me. Sold a few custom things I made online, did engine conversions (small blocks, 4.9's, 3800's), did custom PROM's, etc.
more than likely just plain poor contacts "everywhere"... your "pulling and pushing" fuses may have helped for a bit. You need to actually trouble shoot for a given problem.... by that, I mean take one thing that does not currently work... choose wisely ... 
. Then, pull a schematic for that thing's operation and track thru the circuit with your meter. Hopefully, you will come across a "common fail point" that will get all the broken things... if not, at least address the item that you are tracing and get it working accordingly... then move on to your next "wise choice". Further, check the connections going into the back fuse box... since you were "playing" there and things started to work... so that is the "hint area" you need to work at. My guess is that you have "lost" a power feed into the box... either loose connection or corroded.
Of course, some history of the vehicle might help point you in the right direction also... water damage??? :-(
. Then, pull a schematic for that thing's operation and track thru the circuit with your meter. Hopefully, you will come across a "common fail point" that will get all the broken things... if not, at least address the item that you are tracing and get it working accordingly... then move on to your next "wise choice". Further, check the connections going into the back fuse box... since you were "playing" there and things started to work... so that is the "hint area" you need to work at. My guess is that you have "lost" a power feed into the box... either loose connection or corroded. Of course, some history of the vehicle might help point you in the right direction also... water damage??? :-(
Mooseman
Moderator
Thank you so much guys for your replys. I think I’ll grab a couple straight pins and poke the wires in the hatch boot and see what’s going on. What a great site. I can’t believe how many reply’s so fast. I really appreciate everyone’s time. I do have a used LGM on the way just in case that’s the problem. One question I do have is what is the module right next to the rear fuse box ? Is that the/a BCM ? If so, what does it control ? No idea about the history of the TB. For a 2003 it’s in awesome condition. I totally forgot about the storm vehicles. I sure hope this is not one of them. Unfortunately I was in a pinch for a car and had to find one fast that I could afford and always loved the TB I’ve had in the past. What a small world with the Fieros. I’m sure I’ve talked with you guys before or maybe even have ordered parts. Gonna start a 3800SC swap so maybe I’ll get some parts from you. Thanks again
more than likely just plain poor contacts "everywhere"... your "pulling and pushing" fuses may have helped for a bit. You need to actually trouble shoot for a given problem.... by that, I mean take one thing that does not currently work... choose wisely ...
Of course, some history of the vehicle might help point you in the right direction also... water damage??? :-(
I like your hint about the rear fuse box. It’s just strange that EVERYTHING started working when I was pulling, checking continuity on each fuse and then putting it back in one at a time. I know it’s only a guess but I’d like to take a look UNDER the rear fuse box to see if there are any burnt looking spots. Should I disconnect both the pos and neg battery terminals and then start disconnecting wires run into the fuse box ? Something had to of been wiggled just right for that brief moment all worked. I only have my cell phone and can’t download any manuals until I get back home in about two weeks. I’m out of town helping a friend set up a temporary bedroom before he has surgery and starts radiation and chemo. If I was to check for bad grounds would I just be looking at the one at the top of the liftgate ? Sorry I’m rambling but I just have a lot on my mind and would really like to be able to recline the passenger seat for him for the hour and a half ride to Roswell hospital for the start of his surgeries. Thanks again for any help.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
(on edit): The post before this one (describing the health issues with the OPs friend) wasn't present when I started writing this - my best wishes to him for a speedy recovery)
Welcome to both of you two! Pretty funny how you're already familiar with the GMT3x0 platform & how to troubleshoot (one via other GM platforms; the other b/c this is actually his 2nd TrailBlazer)
Re: BCM. From what I can tell, the vertical box with the ribbon connector in front of the rear underseat fuse box - is referred to as 'a' BCM, at least.
There's also one underneath the driver's kick panel (that's the main one I'm familiar with), and I even found reference to one in the liftgate via a Chevy parts site, but I think that's probably the LCM, specifically, and it's generically referenced as a 'type of' BCM.
There are others here who know this platform better than I do, so if I've misidentified something, I'm sure they'll set you straight. And, yes - that many things going 'bad' all at once - I'd be suspecting a / the BCM had a role in it, too. I'd agree with a likely grounding issue somewhere, as well.
Welcome to both of you two! Pretty funny how you're already familiar with the GMT3x0 platform & how to troubleshoot (one via other GM platforms; the other b/c this is actually his 2nd TrailBlazer)
Re: BCM. From what I can tell, the vertical box with the ribbon connector in front of the rear underseat fuse box - is referred to as 'a' BCM, at least.
There's also one underneath the driver's kick panel (that's the main one I'm familiar with), and I even found reference to one in the liftgate via a Chevy parts site, but I think that's probably the LCM, specifically, and it's generically referenced as a 'type of' BCM.
There are others here who know this platform better than I do, so if I've misidentified something, I'm sure they'll set you straight. And, yes - that many things going 'bad' all at once - I'd be suspecting a / the BCM had a role in it, too. I'd agree with a likely grounding issue somewhere, as well.
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Thanks for reply Reprise. I appreciate your time. From what I understand the LGM could be responsible for the NO rear wiper, no rear defrost, no liftgate locks, and possibly the keyfobs. I was also wondering if the LGM had something to do with the power seats and the heated seats or are these functions controlled through the BCM located next to the rear fuse box. There just has to be something connected to me checking all the rear fuses and then everything working for that short time.
THanks again Reprise. I’ll pass your best wishes on to my buddy. It’s driving him crazy because he can’t be out there with me helping out. I did read him some of the jokes I found on here that made us laugh. What an awesome site. Ok, if anybody can think of one particular reason the heated seats ( switch doesn’t light up ), both no power seats, keyless entry, rear wiper, rear defroster, liftgate locks don’t work please give me your thoughts. The light on the rear plate does work. Is the 30 amp fuse a breaker for the seats ? It does ohm out to zero so I assume it’s good. What are the 3 relays for ? I don’t have an owners manual yet and I’m using my phone so I can’t download the GM manuals yet until I get back home and can use my computer. Ok, many thanks in advance.
Hello again. I just noticed another “ symptom “ that may trigger a fix for my electrical problems. When I start the Trailblazer the passenger mirror moves outward which is away from the memory setting. I only have one key and when I put it in the ignition it says driver 2. So I’ve been using the 2 button for the memory setting. When the key fob did work for that short time, it was set for driver 1 and all the memory stuff worked as well as the radio favorites for driver 1. I just figured I’d add this info I forgot to mention. Maybe this will spark an idea for my problem. Many thanks in advance.
Mooseman
Moderator
Now that's making me think that your Driver Door Module (DDM) may be faulty. That or another module is affecting the data bus to all the modules.
+1 ^
RepairPal Expert Overview on August 15, 2012
Driver's Door Window and/or Lock Switches May Stop Working
In states where salt is used to de-ice the roads, corrosion can develop in the driver's door control module and cause the driver's door switches not to work.
General Motors has not released an owner notification schedule as of this time. If the power window and or door switches in the driver's door are not working properly, or if an abnormal odor is noted, please contact your dealer. Additionally, you should also contact your dealer if you don't receive notification within a reasonable time and you feel you should have. It’s helpful to have your vehicle identification number (VIN) handy when you call.”
https://repairpal.com/chevrolet/trailblazer/recalls
RepairPal Expert Overview on August 15, 2012
Driver's Door Window and/or Lock Switches May Stop Working
In states where salt is used to de-ice the roads, corrosion can develop in the driver's door control module and cause the driver's door switches not to work.
General Motors has not released an owner notification schedule as of this time. If the power window and or door switches in the driver's door are not working properly, or if an abnormal odor is noted, please contact your dealer. Additionally, you should also contact your dealer if you don't receive notification within a reasonable time and you feel you should have. It’s helpful to have your vehicle identification number (VIN) handy when you call.”
https://repairpal.com/chevrolet/trailblazer/recalls
Thanks for the reply’s guys. The windows and the locks work perfect. They go up and down with no problems and the locks work with the switch and how I have it set to work with in and out of park. I have the mirrors set to not tilt when in reverse and the easy exit seat turned on. I did notice today if the wife try’s to move the passenger seat by pressing the passenger seat switches I can feel a faint click under the drivers seat bottom. What is the name of that module under the drivers seat ? From what I read, my 2003 LTZ has only one module under the drivers seat that controls both front seats. I’m just wondering if that module is the problem. Do you think that when I was pulling and checking fuses that module kinda reset itself ? Is there a way I can do a better reset for it ? I read somewhere about disconnecting the battery. I did do that for 30 min or so by unhooking both battery cables. I also read another procedure about only disconnecting the negative and also pulling a fuse at the same time and waiting 1/2 hr. My owners manual is not here yet. Which fuse would I pull for that module under the drivers seat ? Then I also read about disconnecting the battery and then touching the cables together and then waiting the 1/2 hour again. I wasn’t going to do any of this until I consolt with the members here because I remember reading about something failing after a battery disconnect which is very common. What exactly is a common thing that happens when a battery is disconnected ? I wish I was able to download the service manuals and read up on all this stuff. Im still not home because my buddy has started his radiation therapy and needs my TB to take him back and forth to the hospital. He kinda lays in the back seat and says it’s much less painful than sitting in their little car. As always, many thanks in advance.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
I don't think that's a good idea (part of me wants to say "DON'T DO THIS!", but I'll let others comment further)
The reason for leaving the battery (or PCM) disconnected for 30min or so is for any residual juice to drain out (think: capacitors, etc.)
Think of a circuit (or loop) of electrical current being broken. And you can do this with just disconnecting the black (ground) cable, btw. Since the pathway is broken, every device using 12v power loses that power.
Pulling a fuse accomplishes the same thing, with the 'plus' of only that one item losing power (although some things, like the transmission, have multiple circuits fed from one fused connection.)
A lot of people who have HVAC actuator issues, as one example, will go to lengths to avoid disconnecting at the battery. But disconnecting the battery ground is definitely the safest method (one reason why you see it referenced in service manuals - sometimes needlessly - but I digress.) You just have to reset things once you connect back up (although the seat module(s) do retain their memory settings, IIRC. Another thing is that if you use the 'Driver 2' fob, that the system will default to 'Driver 1' when you start the truck for the first time after reconnecting the battery. Pressing the 2nd Driver preset button in the door fixes that.)
One more thing about the remotes - there's a number '1' or '2' on the back of them, and AFAIK, they can't be changed from their assignment (unless you replace the electronic guts inside). So it's best to use the correct numbered preset relative to the fob you have (and if you're the only driver, then set both presets to the same thing, and then it shouldn't matter any more which fob you use.) The presets cover seats, mirrors, temps, and radio presets. I think they may cover DIC settings, as well.
On my Voy, I have an issue with using the remote to unlock - it will sometimes move the mirrors, even though I'm using the 'usual' one. Even disabling the parking feature, as you (and I) have done won't stop this from happening - so if you notice this happening, it's a 'bug', not a 'problem', if you get my drift. I use the key to unlock 99% of the time, because of this (locking has no effect on this, and I can use my remote w/o issue - but I tend to use my delayed locking feature in the door switch, as oftentimes, I want to retrieve something from the back)
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Mooseman
Moderator
The numbers on the remotes don't really do anything. It's when you program them, it's the order in which program them determines the number. I have two number 2 for my TB and one of them.is #1. Remote internals are the same, just the casing is numbered.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
Ah, ok then. I remember getting only one remote when I bought the Envoy, and when I went to the Bay to get another, most (?) were listed with their number.
The other thing was, I remember having to buy a '1'. But all that means now is that the previous owner (?) had two remotes and lost one.
I do remember when I had to charge the battery a few weeks back, that it did show 'driver 1' in the DIC, even though I had remote '2' in hand.
Oh well...I learned something today, at least
The other thing was, I remember having to buy a '1'. But all that means now is that the previous owner (?) had two remotes and lost one.
I do remember when I had to charge the battery a few weeks back, that it did show 'driver 1' in the DIC, even though I had remote '2' in hand.
Oh well...I learned something today, at least
Thanks for clearing that up Mooseman. And of course thanks for your reply Reprise. I only have one key and one key fob. When I put the key in, DIC shows driver 2. If I press the key fob it goes to driver 1. I got a little disappointed when you talked about the designated 1 and 2 only key fobs because I already purchased 2 new keys and 2 new key fobs. I’m not doing anything with them until get these electrical gremlins straightened out.
Not to confuse anything because the key fob doesn’t work now. That’s just what it did for that short time when everything worked.
[Mod edit: if you need to add info to your last post, please use the edit button instead of posting successively. Thanks.]
Not to confuse anything because the key fob doesn’t work now. That’s just what it did for that short time when everything worked.
[Mod edit: if you need to add info to your last post, please use the edit button instead of posting successively. Thanks.]
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- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
I guess I could try to program the new fobs. I may be wrong, but I wonder if the LGM in the lift gate AND the module under the drivers seat are both bad. What is the module under the seat called ? What is the module next to the rear fuse box called ? Many thanks in advance.
The one under the Driver's Seat is a MSM (Memory Seat Module) and has several, patent Orange Wires that are in (+) HOT at all times ...so the seat can be adjusted before and after the driver enters the vehicle and prior to starting the engine. So ...do Remove the Negative Battery Ground (-) Cable prior to doing any work or R&R of this unit under there.
The BCM (Body Control Module) is located underneath the Rear Seat ... adjacent the Second Fuse Box... looking like the image in the link below. And likewise... try not to move around or disconnect the Electrical Cables and Connectors on this thing without Removing the Negative Battery Ground (-) Cable First, as it is in direct communication on a grand scale with the PCM and sparking anything back down there could "lunch" the PCM:
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/tim37857/2012-08-10_035100_body.gif
The BCM (Body Control Module) is located underneath the Rear Seat ... adjacent the Second Fuse Box... looking like the image in the link below. And likewise... try not to move around or disconnect the Electrical Cables and Connectors on this thing without Removing the Negative Battery Ground (-) Cable First, as it is in direct communication on a grand scale with the PCM and sparking anything back down there could "lunch" the PCM:
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/tim37857/2012-08-10_035100_body.gif
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- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
21812763 is the part # for the 'rear' module (I believe it goes in the rear liftgate, and it's listed as interfacing with the locks)
The one MRRSM was kind enough to post the illustration of does not have a 'front' reference - but it is. As he said - pull power before you disconnect it.
You can try reseating the connectors on both of these first. Also, the rear one may be sourced in a pick / pull, as it looks to be same for most if not all makes / trims (but check). It was listed as a match for the '03 LTZ, anyway.
The one MRRSM was kind enough to post the illustration of does not have a 'front' reference - but it is. As he said - pull power before you disconnect it.
You can try reseating the connectors on both of these first. Also, the rear one may be sourced in a pick / pull, as it looks to be same for most if not all makes / trims (but check). It was listed as a match for the '03 LTZ, anyway.
Thanks guys, I appreciate your replys. At least I know what they’re called now. I haven’t had one much minute to work on this yet. My buddy had to go to the emergency room because he was halucenating from his new pain meds. When he got in he sat in the passenger front seat. While we were driving to the emergency room, he was trying to adjust the passenger seat. While he was doing this I could feel something kinda clicking below the drivers side seat bottom. I thought this was kinda strange and felt I should add this clicking to my symptoms list. I found a used memory module on EBay and bought it. I’m not sure if it will fix some of my issues but I’m starting to lean more and more towards this memory module. From what I’ve read, it controls both front seats in my 2003 TB.
Hello again. I think my Trailblazer is going mad ! Today I got gas. I know it needs the evap solenoid as read on here because I can only put gas in a few cents at a time so filling the tank takes very longs. The gas gauge was on the full mark. Now when I start the TB, the gauge goes up to F and then the yellow light comes on and the gauge goes to E. If I shut the TB off and remove the key and restart it again the gauge goes to F again and then does the same thing going to E with the yellow light. What in the world could be going on ? I can not afford to take to the dealer because I’m disabled. Can anybody help me with this mess please ? Many thanks in advance.
Mooseman
Moderator
We're trying. It's not easy diagnosing at a distance like this.
The problem with filling is more likely the filler hose that's kinked than anything with the evap system.
Have you looked at the ignition switch? As mentioned before, it can cause all sorts of weird electrical issues. It's cheap enough to just replace to eliminate it as a cause.
The fuel gauge could be the sensor in the tank. It would need to be tested via an ohmmeter.
The problem with filling is more likely the filler hose that's kinked than anything with the evap system.
Have you looked at the ignition switch? As mentioned before, it can cause all sorts of weird electrical issues. It's cheap enough to just replace to eliminate it as a cause.
The fuel gauge could be the sensor in the tank. It would need to be tested via an ohmmeter.
- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
I don't have a better fix suggestion for the fuel gauge (right now, I'd agree with Mooseman about the sensor being the first thing to check.)
Since you have the DIC, it has a 'miles to empty' and two tripmeter displays.
If the MTE display shows a more or less correct figure after filling (probably somewhere between 300-350, depending on your tank size - SWB I6 probably has a 21gal) - you can use that to help estimate your fuel remaining.
If that fails, you can use one of the A/B tripmeters for driven distance - but you have to remember to reset it after each fill up, of course. Easy enough to do from the steering wheel button.
Not sure of the nature of your disability (and you don't have to disclose), but I'm assuming you have some mobility, or a helper, since you don't want to go to the dealer (and I don't blame you!)
If you can get the rear lifted a little bit and on jack stands, you can get a pretty good view of the entire filler neck assembly, and check to see if you have a bad bend / kink (at least you can on the LWB, which is what I have). You may not even have to lift it to check, to be honest - I think I looked at mine when I was changing the rear shocks recently, and the wheels were on the ground for that.
Filler necks are available; I purchased one recently due to a good deal on Amazon, and have it stored away for a later install. I think you can get one for about $80 or so, normally. They're reasonably easy to install.
With all of that said - because your fuel gauge issue may be electrical in nature, give some consideration to the ignition switch, as Mooseman suggested.
Even if it doesn't fix the issues, you can keep the old one for a spare, as they can go out without warning (many here keep a spare in the vehicle, along with a few other items that can go out - May03LT has a good YT video on all of them).
Best to get an ACDelco - part # is 15242754 ; you can get them for about $25 or so online. Dorman makes one a few dollars cheaper, but they can't be trusted with anything electrical, so we wouldn't recommend them for this type of part.
Since you have the DIC, it has a 'miles to empty' and two tripmeter displays.
If the MTE display shows a more or less correct figure after filling (probably somewhere between 300-350, depending on your tank size - SWB I6 probably has a 21gal) - you can use that to help estimate your fuel remaining.
If that fails, you can use one of the A/B tripmeters for driven distance - but you have to remember to reset it after each fill up, of course. Easy enough to do from the steering wheel button.
Not sure of the nature of your disability (and you don't have to disclose), but I'm assuming you have some mobility, or a helper, since you don't want to go to the dealer (and I don't blame you!)
If you can get the rear lifted a little bit and on jack stands, you can get a pretty good view of the entire filler neck assembly, and check to see if you have a bad bend / kink (at least you can on the LWB, which is what I have). You may not even have to lift it to check, to be honest - I think I looked at mine when I was changing the rear shocks recently, and the wheels were on the ground for that.
Filler necks are available; I purchased one recently due to a good deal on Amazon, and have it stored away for a later install. I think you can get one for about $80 or so, normally. They're reasonably easy to install.
With all of that said - because your fuel gauge issue may be electrical in nature, give some consideration to the ignition switch, as Mooseman suggested.
Even if it doesn't fix the issues, you can keep the old one for a spare, as they can go out without warning (many here keep a spare in the vehicle, along with a few other items that can go out - May03LT has a good YT video on all of them).
Best to get an ACDelco - part # is 15242754 ; you can get them for about $25 or so online. Dorman makes one a few dollars cheaper, but they can't be trusted with anything electrical, so we wouldn't recommend them for this type of part.
Hello again. I did some searching and have not found the answer to my question. Since it appears I’m having multiple electrical problems with my 03 TB LTZ, I would like to know where each module is located and what specific functions they control. Where I am really confused is when I was pulling each end every fuse in the rear seat location and checking if it was blown, what could I of bumped, reset, or temporarily made contact to that resulted in everything working for a few days ? The only thing that is different now is that the seats are not reclined 1/2 way back and the seats are closer to the pedals now. What would restore power to everything that didn’t work just by checking fuses ? This just sounds like one thing was temporary connected in or near that rear fuse block. Any ideas what it could be because I’m really confused. Many thanks in advance.
Hello everyone again. I’d like to add another electrical gremlin to my 2003 Trailblazer. When I go to start my truck in the morning, I turn the key to start and only get a click. All the gauges energize, the radio comes on etc. The battery reads 12.6 volts. If I keep trying to start it by turning the key forward and back it will eventually spin the starter but won’t start until the attempt following when the starter finally spins. This could take up to 10 minutes. Once it’s running it will be fine all day until it sits again overnight. From the suggestions given to me I have a Delco ignition switch from Rock Auto on the way. Do you guys think this may be the problem and may solve some of my other gremlins or does it sound like a bad connection to the solenoid or even a bad solenoid ? It’s only 5 degrees out and been snowing and really don’t want to crawl under the TB unless I have to. Thank you for any suggestions and Happy New Year to all the members here.
$ Khalid ! 9130
Member
Hi, welcome to the site. Just went through all your posts. In my opinion judging by the myriad of problems you've been getting I would say you have a bad ground. Again I'm not as experienced as some of the other members here, but there is one thing all your electricals have in common, which is the ground. I'd suggest you check your ground, or get it checked before making costly replacements. 
Mooseman
Moderator
To see if it's the starter itself, try jumping the starter relay when it's cold. If it spins the engine without issues, then I would throw in the ignition switch and see. If it still happens, then I would replace the relay. You could also swap the relay with another similar one.
Search on YouTube for may03lt and trailblazer no crank for things to test.
Search on YouTube for may03lt and trailblazer no crank for things to test.
Thanks guys for the suggestions. I appreciate the guidance. My AcDelco ignition switch came in today. This morning I was attempting to get her started and for the heck of it I put the shifter into low and back to park. It started right up. Only problem now is the key won’t come out. I did get the key out when I pushed the button near the lock cylinder before I replaced the ignition switch. I also grabbed a new starter relay to swap out in case it doesn’t turn over in the morning with the new ignition switch. The cranking problem is starting to sound like there must be a switch like a neutral safety switch that is bad. I’m kinda confused because I can now shift out of park when the engine is running without pressing on the brake. When you say check the grounds, do you mean the one inside the TB up front on the passenger side ? I’ve seen the diagrams but I can’t see where the ground is for the rear fuse block under the seat. Is there a main ground in that area that I may of bumped when I was pulling fuses a while ago. I did also notice while I was taking the front drivers side kick panel off to get to the ignition switch that it looks like there is what I’m guessing to be a remote start system because I found the antenna for it. I sure hope that’s not messing everything up ! Ok guys, thanks again, any thoughts ?
Mooseman
Moderator
With this new info, it certainly sounds like a safety switch issue, which might also affect the starter (think trying to start in D). If it won't start, try playing around with the shifter, maybe try in different positions. If the switch's adjustment is off, it might explain these problems.
Thanks Mooseman. Yes I did see if it would start in gear. It wouldn’t. It would start in neutral and park. This morning when I was trying to get it to spin over, I put it in low on the aggressive side to see if it would crank when I returned it to park. Maybe coincidence but it did. I warmed her up and drove to AutoZone to pick up a starter relay to have on hand to swap in just in case the ignition switch didn’t do the trick. That’s when the key wouldn’t come out for the first time. If it wasn’t so cold and if I didn’t have to take my buddy to Roswell ( Cancer hospital ) everyday which is a 1 1/2 hour drive one way, I might have time to trace all the problems one at a time. I was obviously lied to when I purchased the TB but I needed something with four wheel drive that was good in the snow and with room for a wheelchair quick to get my friend safely back and forth for treatment and multiple surgeries. Between my family and his we couldn’t rub two nickels together so as long as we make it through this mess we will be happy. I just left the lower cover off the steering column so I can press the button for now to get the key out. Funny because if I get pulled over a cop will probably think it’s a stolen vehicle LOL ! I thank each and every member here who has reached out and offered guidance.
$ Khalid ! 9130
Member
Hopefully when all this is over, you'll end up falling for the TB and it becomes you're favorite car 
. Really hope your friend gets well soon and he's really lucky to have a friend like you. Hats off to you sir 
. Really hope your friend gets well soon and he's really lucky to have a friend like you. Hats off to you sir Thanks for the kind words Khalid. This is actually my third TB. Back when I had a good back and was a valuable employee where I messed up my back, I had a 2002 TB LS and then saved up for an 06 TB SS. I loved both of those trucks especially the SS. As soon as I became disabled I was no longer any “value” to my now ex wife or my employer. I had to sell my SS and basically lost everything I worked my behind off for. I’m sure many of us have the same story, so it’s nothing new. It is what it is, and believe it or not I’m much happier now than ever before. I learned a very valuable lesson that money doesn’t make the man. People who have your back are far and few between. It’s just nice to see that there are still good people in this crazy world. Thanks again.
$ Khalid ! 9130
Member
I know this is waaayyy off topic, but I literally teared up to this. It takes a strong man to make the best out of bad situations. I don't know I'm just lost for words. Again I hope your friend has a speedy recovery and may you find another SS to enjoy yourself.
Best Wishes
