Cruising good only about 1.5 miles then she cuts off.

[Sprung Monkey]

Cruising good only about 1.5 miles then she cuts off.
07saab97x 5.3i 155K miles



The battery was good turn key and the single click that seans to come from starter.

If I hold the key all the dash lights flash.

I swapped relays w/ the relay next to starter #47 inside engine still no start.



Is it possible to tap on the starter from above even though I can’t see the starter I’m assuming it’s on rear of pass.side engine?



Could a rotton starter cause the engine to turn itself off while cruising around 20mph in 2nd gear?

The battery is 11.6vdc I’m charging the battery. Will crawl under there around starter tomorrow. Thanks for any tips

 

[Mooseman]

Is it possible to tap on the starter from above even though I can’t see the starter I’m assuming it’s on rear of pass.side engine?

Maybe but I can't remember seeing mine from above. Even from below, it's wedged in there tight.

Could a rotton starter cause the engine to turn itself off while cruising around 20mph in 2nd gear?

No. Once an engine is running, the starter is no longer in play.

The battery is 11.6vdc I’m charging the battery.

That sounds more like the battery is bad. Take it out and get it tested. I'd also get the alternator tested. If it's not charging and let the battery get that low, that could cause the engine to stall.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

I had a man w/ jumper cables no crank.1st tow truck had a small jump box no crank, he had to go back and get a flatbed when I told him it's all wheel drive.

hard to believe amazon sells brand new starters cheaper than the rebuilts then also want the old starter. think these starters mite be good enough?
please don't tell me the engine mount must be loosened and engine jacked up, even then it's a major pita.

I'm no expert at looking up parts however it appears the 6cly. use's a differnt starter. thanks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R1F88OW/?tag=gmtnation-20

 

[Sprung Monkey]

wouldn't either the jump box or jump off started the engine
that's if the starter was working properly.

when a alternator goe's bad doe's it emit a burnt odor I was smelling a slite odor inside cabin.thanks

 

[Mooseman]

If you read the reviews of that particular starter, some have had failures so I'd avoid it. I've had good luck with TYC new starters.

Before condemning the starter, try jumping the starter relay and other things to check. This thread has good info on checking a no crank situation.

No Crank, Like Attempting To Start In Drive

wouldn't either the jump box or jump off started the engine
that's if the starter was working properly.

Not if there is another problem elsewhere like the neutral switch. Go through that thread and do the diagnostics.

when a alternator goe's bad doe's it emit a burnt odor I was smelling a slite odor inside cabin.thanks

Not necessarily. I've never had a smell, either noise from a bad bearing or nothing, sometimes a message saying battery not charging. A battery going that low is not good. Get both tested.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

excellent thread I've copied youre jump procedure in my glove box cheat sheet notebook.

this guys makes taking a driveshaft off easy. I now see how the shift linkage gets pressed on this is how I did 2nd time around.

battery is 12.4vdc I've read 12.6vdc is required is this true or false?

this man describes youre suggestion can this switch be bypassed

when jumping the 2 back pins on relay 47 key on paper clip jump w/ relay still inserted?

is relay 60 operate the same as starter 47?thanks

 

[Mooseman]

Just do the diagnostics indicated in that thread to find the real cause. That guy in the video don't know squat. Don't permanently jump the relay or it'll just crank all the time. If the neutral safety switch is bad, just replace it instead of doing some ghetto fix.

Our front driveshaft is a bit different. You don't have to pull the rubber boot.

 

[budwich]

never heard of a starter problem causing a vehicle to shutoff. It is more likely to be a wiring issue. The lack of a "start condition" thereafter does not mean you have a starter problem. The flashing dash lights is again pointing to a wiring / battery issue.

 

[gmcman]

never heard of a starter problem causing a vehicle to shutoff. It is more likely to be a wiring issue. The lack of a "start condition" thereafter does not mean you have a starter problem. The flashing dash lights is again pointing to a wiring / battery issue.

Agreed.

If you are shutting down while driving, check the battery cables. Just because they are tight, doesn't mean they are making contact.

Also check the alternator output, as well as your ground connections.

The reason it didn't start after the motor shut down, was likely because you didn't have enough charge in the battery.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

all you Guys are right the weak battery caused the stall and the no recrank.I recharged to 12.4 it barely turned it over. so I'm hopping the starter as Mooseman mentioned still good.

will testing alt. while running give acurate results? I remove the atl. for testing at auto store?
she's got 155K miles probably the orginal alternator. please recommend a new alt. or a used include donor car.
when swapping alt. is the exciter wire also replaced?

I'm out the door for the new battery I think it's a 3 year weird when I lookup side post at costco they only have one. it doesn't show up.how many crank amps? do you Guys get more powerfull than needed batterys? thanks

 

[Mooseman]

will testing alt. while running give acurate results? I remove the atl. for testing at auto store?
she's got 155K miles probably the orginal alternator. please recommend a new alt. or a used include donor car.

I would recommend that you take it out and get it tested. It's easy to take it out on the V8 and testing is free. Since it didn't keep it running after you were able to start it, it doesn't seem to be providing any power.

I've had more problems with rebuilt alternators, including those from ACDelco, than new Chinese ones. Check the reviews on Amazon for the brands you're looking at.

when swapping alt. is the exciter wire also replaced?

There is no such thing on these. Just replace the alternator, reconnect and go.

I've had good luck with regular Costco batteries. Just get the basic CCA, whatever it is. I've been able to start in -30c with standard CCA and not plugged in.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

update:new battery turned her over she did so relucutantly like it was straining to turn over even w/ brand new battery.
anyway she cranked I drove less than a mile she cut off but restarted I drove to my destination 2 miles total one way.
according to volt meter she was charging at 1oclock that lowered down to left of the 12oclock more like 11-30

so it's probabley weak. seams like gm alts. charge good when cool then reduce charge efficiently when warmed up.

lives most embrassing moments the trans shift cable comes loose at the new bushing.
the car can't be trusted w/ a faulty shift cable.
?1.the metal bushing I've read of or the 2 piece bushing.which bush will stay attached ?
I tried attaching a couple tie wrapes around the shifter & cable couldn't get a TW no.

never taken a battery back to costco they refunded me then I purchased a new battery so I assume my 3 year warrenty starts over again this can't be true because some folks would use the battery for less the 3 years and take back they don't even bother to test it.

I was lucky to be able to jack it up to try to presson w/ pliers was able to get home but chevy has lost any shred of desinicy they once had.

 

[Mooseman]

according to volt meter she was charging at 1oclock that lowered down to left of the 12oclock more like 11-30

Sounds normal.

so it's probabley weak. seams like gm alts. charge good when cool then reduce charge efficiently when warmed up.

Get it tested.

I was lucky to be able to jack it up to try to presson w/ pliers was able to get home

No idea what you're talking about here.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

he trans shift cable comes loose at the new bushing.
the car can't be trusted w/ a faulty shift cable.
?1.the metal bushing I've read of or the 2 piece bushing.which bush will stay attached ?
I tried attaching a couple tie wrapes around the shifter & cable couldn't get a TW no.
maybe this type of bushing (this is a 05 truck)

 

[JayArr]

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[Mooseman]

he trans shift cable comes loose at the new bushing.
the car can't be trusted w/ a faulty shift cable.
?1.the metal bushing I've read of or the 2 piece bushing.which bush will stay attached ?
I tried attaching a couple tie wrapes around the shifter & cable couldn't get a TW no.
maybe this type of bushing (this is a 05 truck)

So I guess the plastic end is damaged or the pin? I've never seen that particular bushing before with an E clip. There is also this one that may be an even more solid option.

GM / Chevrolet 4L60E Shifter Cable Repair Pin

GM / Chevrolet 4L60E Shifter Cable Repair Pin

www.atfspeed.com

 

[Sprung Monkey]

yes I wished I'd ordered the metal bushing. went plastic because thats oem .plus I didn't know about this gm shenanigans. still don't.
the mud messed me up on seeing how it's put together all I saw a hanging cable no shift situation.
I image in a life or death situation the shifter could be removed
an reach down w/ long needlenose vice grips for a shift.

is there a detailed video on swapping this bushing I believe the larger end slides onto the shift lever nipple.
1.is the clip installed then the cable pressed on? or is cable pressed on then slide in the clip?
2.there's writing on the end of cable is this faceing inward toward engine or outward?thanks again I'll go back and reread again unless you have the quickie answer. car can't be driven in it's current condition.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

seams kindof involved removing lever and grinding it.

this man here

has the draco printing facing toward engine.have you ever used this bushing no grinding involved.

this part from amasome looks exactly like the metal one you link to but plastic.wonder why amazon thinks it doesn't fit the saab?

 

[Sprung Monkey]

to avoid the grinding of lever maybe this however amazom says it won't fit weird the saab has a 4l60 trans.

 

[Mooseman]

You'd have to consult with the manufacturer if using the metal bushing. If using the rubber one, found this video that shows proper install.

Saab is the same as other GM vehicles with the 4L60E. They just don't know about this oddball truck.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

I believe the cable is attached correctly however I never heard/felt any snap into place.

It seams to be on kindof snuggly yet to test shift, will do a few w/ engine off.



Best I can describe in darkness is draco is facing trans. Pan then theres 4 white nipples

Pointed downward. Exactly like attached image.



Hate to carry a floor jack for cable fallen off fix.I haven’t room for a 3 ton floor jack. I carry a bottle & sissor small suv type.

 

[gmcman]

I had the same linkage issue, this was my fix.

SOLVED! - Something broke in shift linkage

Was turning around in driveway, went back and forth a few times, placed in Reverse and backed up, went to place in drive and the shifter went easily into the 1st gear position but stayed in reverse. I placed the shifter in Park and the trans stayed in Reverse. Also, when I tried to take it out...

gmtnation.com

When the engine is running, what is the output of the alternator using a DMM? Idle, and at 2000 RPM. Also perform the same test with the high beams, seat heat (if applicable), rear defroster on all at the same time.

If the engine is stalling while driving, then slow cranks, then my first two guesses is a bad cable, or a weak starter/fuel issue.....I'm leaning towards the cable.

What does the battery cable side-terminals look like? What does your ground look like?

If the charging light is not on, you could be just above the threshold of too low volts and not provide adequate charge....rare but a possibility.

The next area would be insufficient current flow. You can have 13.6-14.4 VDC, but very low current, this would be from a faulty cable.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

I’ll deffinity check the wires & test charge sys w/ DMM to avoid inevitable.

I plan to remove alt. and have it tested I can return there crappie waterpump tool while I’m there.



What all is to be tested on a alt. charging check, reverse charge diode functioning check. Thresholds of minium/maxium reached checked.



Rock auto published a atlternater check list. https://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/archives/10-3-13.html#tomStory

They claim a bad retififer inside a alternater, when engine is off can actuely drain the battery.

On the gtm360 Is this true or false?



Hows this for a alt. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5910183&cc=1433749&jsn=376

 

[Sprung Monkey]

the only cables I've looked at so far have been the battery terminations. they appear clean.
voltages tests at cold crank 15.5vdc at 900 RPM
14.6vdc at 700 RPM
12.2vdc at 700 RPM w/ high beams
15.2 vdc at 700 RPM high beams/seats heated/defrost w/fan on high
these are cold in the morning startup.
I'll be inspecting wires and report back.
thanks for advice

 

[gmcman]

Going by your findings, 12.2 would be too low, and 15.5 would be too high.

The 15.5 is more concerning than the 12.2.

When you say the cables are clean, did you remove the cables from the battery and inspect the teeth that dig into the soft side terminal of the battery?

What DMM are you using? Reason I ask is to know the accuracy.

Sounds like the alternator is bad solely based on your data. The voltage should not be 12.2 under a load, I think 13.4v or 13.6V min. Also 15.5V is above the max of I believe 14.4 or 14.6V.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

Tiny bit of corrosion only on negative battery termination positive zero corrosion, clean metal.

only did this one test.
Now I’m reading 14.6vdc at 700RPM w/ hi-beams.both seats on 3 bars, front /rear defrost fan on hi.



I have a decent DMM it’s a tectroic $150. so it’s pretty accurate my test leads have been bent up could be questionable.

Removed the alt. had it tested wasn’t impressed w/ the tester when test was over the instructor says to tester the ground has to be connected.anyway attached results.



Hows the easy method to reinstall the alt. there’s 2 helo coils that needed persuasion.



It’s been awhile since driving the saab so I’m not accustomed to all the different noises the 5.3 makes like lifter ticking is a normal thing however she seams to have developed a knocking during start up haven’t ran her long for the noise to disappear,



I've never had a engine nock ,The nock probably won’t go away is it possible the 4 minute burndown the tires at redlineRPMs getting her unstuck from mud created the knock? thanks for advice

 

[Mooseman]

So your alt looks fine. To reinstall, you just have to push those spacers back in a little. I usually just give a couple of taps of a hammer.

That corrosion could have been the cause since it now seems to be working well. How does it start?

 

[Sprung Monkey]

how do the test rests look I was surprised to see the 15.5vdc on the chart.

she starts fine now even though this starter sound/feels like a import turning over.
heres how she charges
cold start 1-2 oclock
warmed up 12oclock
cruiseing around or expressway tad below 12oclock like 11-30 oclock.
turn off warm restart back to 1-2oclock and so on.

initially (first couple drives) I noticed this charging pattern and was suspicious of the GM charge sys. w/out the gm big 3 connected.
after reading gmcmans advice posts about the charge sys stops at a certain point ( believe that point is reached when needle goe's to 11-30 oclock pretty much after operating temp is reached.

my charging pattern (differnt engine temps differnt amount of charge) seams to be consistent so I assume this is normal btw my TA charges very similarity.

my dmm leads are kindof scheckie plan news leads and retest.
meanwhile I'll retest w/ a cheap harbor freight DMM it's surprisely is accurate. will report back.
do atlernaters go bad 100% or do they slowely lower there output %?

now if I could only trust the trans. shift cable bushing.
I don't want to grind ome lever to fit a metal bushing, sure I have dremel/ and a couple grinders but no.
I think I'll try the plastic w/ retain clip same design as the metal.

I think the metal rubbing on plastic will have a negative effect on reaming out cables bushing holder but plastic on plastic could be better.
thanks again.

 

[Mooseman]

how do the test rests look I was surprised to see the 15.5vdc on the chart.

That's just the max that it can pump out. If working correctly, it usually never goes that high.

do atlernaters go bad 100% or do they slowely lower there output %?

They can fail all sorts of ways. Some completely die, some don't charge enough, some stop intermittently, some get failed bearings even though they still work right.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

Went for the second drive since the cooling sys redo.

My initial wakeup call to low oil pressure was scary can’t remember the exact message

Low oil pressure/turn off engine, the engine was acteuly low by 2 quarts, haven’t sean low preasure since probally 3.5K miles an 2 years ago.



Currently the oil preasure guage indicates low oil preasure at idel at 11 oclock then suddenly drops to the red 10 oclock.I have 6.5 quarts on dip stick.

Do I most likely have the physical needed oil preasure just a wonkie guage?



Watched a video however the engine was a L6, I’m thinking GM used the same sensor because he described the reading to a T, giving bogus readings.



Additionally after not driving her for almost a ½ year she seamed to be much weaker maybe it’s just because I’m lately driving the TA anything seams weak compared to it, I do keep this in mind when I’m evaluating this weaker than the useale 5.3 like I remember it being stronger and peppier.

Could the computer have the power dialed back because it thinks low oil preasure condition exists.

The GM oil pump since it’s made of metal is it a heavey duty part? Expect it to last how many miles?

Edit: I ordered the oil preasure sensor/fliter & wrench be looking for a few hours can’t find or misplaced.Thanks Guys for advice

 

[Mooseman]

Watched a video however the engine was a L6, I’m thinking GM used the same sensor because he described the reading to a T, giving bogus readings.

No, all V8 have a real gauge.

Could the computer have the power dialed back because it thinks low oil preasure condition exists.

I doubt it. Never heard of anything like that.

The GM oil pump since it’s made of metal is it a heavey duty part? Expect it to last how many miles?

It should last the entire life of the engine however it can suffer from a leaking pickup tube seal (common) or sticking pressure relief valve (less common). Another possibility is a plugged pickup screen.

Edit: I ordered the oil preasure sensor/fliter & wrench be looking for a few hours can’t find or misplaced.Thanks Guys for advice

Good call. That screen can plug up and give issues to the sensor.

Use an M8x1.25x50 bolt to pull out that screen. It's actually easier in the Saab. I had done it and there is more room than in the full size like in the video since it doesn't have that plastic shield in the way.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

Good news is I found the oil pressure sensor/tool/and screen.ordered this stuff couple weeks ago.

Bad news is I can’t find my fuel line removal tool.thought it was a required tool.

More bad news I don’t have a swivel type racket, I do have a universal that attachs to racket.

I’m really bad w/ those evap lines plastic clips,hope I don’t break them.

When pushing in new filter Doe’s the filter bottom out?can it be felt to be pressed on deep enough.do use the bolt to line filter up in hole start pressing in then fully presson w/ the finger the filter appears fragile and easily ruined.



This man made an Excellent video.had me worried at the end when pressure didn’t rise. infor on the bolt size to remove filter big help.

Additionally there’s no check engine light on the Saab, like on this tahoe and I haven’t scanned for codes

I thought that the check engine light was only emissions related fuel cap to injectors vacuum leak ect.

Report back later hope to keep the skin shredding to a minium.

Thanks Mooseman you the man.

 

[Mooseman]

I thought that the check engine light was only emissions related fuel cap to injectors vacuum leak ect.

It would be if the oil pressure is too low (or wrongly saying it's low), the AFM wouldn't work so it throws this code and disables it.

Sure hope for you it's just the sensor or screen.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

I was able to remove the oil pressure sensor unable to pull the filter out unless I did already w/ pick & dropped it behind engine felt around back there cound’nt feel it.

I believe the filter is in there was able to thread a bolt a few turns I do feel it, it is jammed in there.
must it be clocked 180* then pull up?

how far down is this filter more than 1 ½” from top of filter?

My hands are pretty strong but that thing won’t budge I wiggle bolt and pull up dam.

I'm getting to the point of hopping it's the sensor and leave the screen stuck in there.

So since I’m not getting the check engine then the sensor is working.

So next easiest solution to hope for is the screen.

 

[Mooseman]

must it be clocked 180* then pull up?

Not that I know of. it's just pull straight out.

how far down is this filter more than 1 ½” from top of filter?

It should be down as much as the threads on the sensor, less than 1/2"? It's not that far down in there.

I'm getting to the point of hopping it's the sensor and leave the screen stuck in there.

Well not good if it's plugged up with gunk. Won't allow the sensor and AFM to work correctly.

So since I’m not getting the check engine then the sensor is working.

Not necessarily. It could falsely report low or no oil pressure and the PCM would not know. It throws a code when the pressure is too low for the AFM to work but not low enough to give you a low oil pressure warning or it has an issue with wiring, like not connected or a hard internal issue like a short.

I don't think you need to turn the bolt on it too much, maybe a turn or two at most just to grab the top of it. Too much and you might expand it to the point of jamming it inb there. At worse, pull it out with a hooked pick.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

is the filter in there barely enough for the Oring to be snugged inside block.I made a hook tool at of a turkey holder big fork the hook is only 1/8" not like a real hook tool , which wouldn't fit I think the Guys grind this tool a tad.
first bolt I tried was 1 1/2" felt it thread in a turn but couldn't grab head of bolt enough to pull on.

the next bolt is like 3"s it's contacting something at 2 1/2" could I have pushed the filter down?
could someone have removed this filter and left it out?

w/ a angled mirror & light source should I be able to see the filter?

could I be screwing into the inlet oil port that feeds the afm under the valley plate? the man on video made this look easy.Thanks

dam I look at the fuel line back there and it's rusted next thread.

 

[Mooseman]

could someone have removed this filter and left it out?

Quite possible. Check with either a mirror or a camera with a flash.

That hole is not very deep. It's just in the valley cover. I would imagine there's something to prevent it from going in too deep.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

Update I was able to observe there wasn’t a screen or I picked it out and didn’t recover it.

Oiled Oring of filter and dropped it in did’nt even press down on it.

Good news is decent oil pressure well it did rise drove a couple blocks w/ upto 2.5K rpms pressure didn’t seam to rise much over 12 o clock.



bad news I think she developed a knock. Here’s a quickie cell phone video of the nocking/tapping/ noises I can create a better vid. w/ my camera for better microphone.

Note if it’s indeed rod knock I don’t care if you don’t want to be the barer of ban news, won't hurt my feelings.

would a worn rod bearing cause the decrease in power I recently felt?

I’d like to know extent of damage.

Thanks for advice.

 

[Mooseman]

At the beginning, yeah it sure sounds like it but then it becomes irregular.

This is rod knock:

That would be my 9-7x just last year. It had a very light knock for several years and while I was pulling my trailer, this happened. My pressure was good when it happened but then crapped out when it started knocking.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

she's making some weird sounds the initial slapping sound didn't even sound like it came from engine bay but from underneath then goe's away. second ticking sound sounded like another lifter but that was 2 years ago so my memory has faded.

remember I redid cylinder1 afm lifters w/ new afm lifters also redid all other odd cylinders, haven't removed the even cylinders head because most of what I've read it's always cylinder#1s lifter collaspes.

I'll try to narrow down where the noise is coming from I don't have a stethoscope can I use a large screw driver on engine other end on my ear to listen w/?

I'll take a better video tomorrow. I thinking I can't trust the Saab in this condition.Thanks again Mooseman

I'll probably not sleep much tonight worrying about engine dam.