Cruising good only about 1.5 miles then she cuts off.

[Mooseman]

remember I redid cylinder1 afm lifters w/ new afm lifters also redid all other odd cylinders, haven't removed the even cylinders head because most of what I've read it's always cylinder#1s lifter collaspes.

How is that possible without removing the head? To replace the lifter, you have to pull the head.

I hope you didn't replace just the one lifter. If one failed, likely another is not far behind. If the filter was missing, dirt might have gotten to another lifter.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

I removed the driver side cylinder head this is where 1357 cylinders are replaced all afm and regular lifters on each odd cylinder.
"haven't removed the even cylinders head on pass.side because most of what I've read it's always cylinder#1s lifter collapsed"

it seams like cylinder 1 is ticking. will a stuck/clogged afm lifter
make a totally different sound than a collasped?

dam I hope some Ahole didn't sabotage my lifter swap by removing screen, I'm thinking this could be possible because nobody (I did lifter swap at a friends there's lots of DIYers over there most are cool) pre warned me about this know screen shenanigans especially since the mannie was off.

I'm also suspicious why no one explained to me hey since you got the y-pipe off replace the trans filter. I didn't think much of it at the time because the freind has his own idea about never changing old trans fuild.

now I understand why theres a secondary lifter filter before oil enters valley plate that screens holes must be much smaller than the oil feed hole in lifter correct.

the second sound in the video doe's it sound like a ticking lifter and not a collapsed lifter?

if yes maybe I can get away w/ just remove valve cover and spray a strong B-12 carb cleaner .

edit: I've only driven & towed mainly for 3K miles since lifter swap.guess it doe'snt take long for oil to dirty up.

edit: it seams strange to me that this filter just dropped in I didn't press it in so hows that oring seal around block unless block was sabataged grinded where the oring sits.
thanks sorry to be so long.

 

[Mooseman]

Listened to it again and it's weird. It sounds like the mic is cutting down the volume or cutting out noises. At the beginning it really sounded like a rod knock and then just cut out the sound. Then under the hood it's just so irregular and you don't hear the regular engine sounds so much. I can't tell what the noise is.

I would have deleted the AFM completely. When you replaced the lifters, did you inspect the cam? It could have been damaged from the time the lifter collapsed and was banging on it. That could be the cause if #1 is making noise again.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

I was told that since the collasped lifters bottom (the end that sits on cam) didn't appear to be scratched then chances the cam is reusable. the timeing cover wasn't removed so the cam wasn't removed from block for inspection..
Actelly preious order of parts where in deed afm delete cam I check it’s spected for

I ordered lifters 8afms 8 regular, head gasket intake mannie gasket header gasket all new header bolts y-pipi studs ect

My friend talked me he said they lasted 150K miles would you like another 150K, I said well oem was less work I couldn't argue w/ his arguement stock power meets my requirements extra is always better.

I was able to return the cam but keep everthing else so I have parts for a complete head.



I will remove valve cover and if the afm lifter has colasped it won’t force the pushrod so I won’t see this valve open or close correct.
I got new battery's for the digital camera w/ video this thing sucks the life outta a rechargable isn't powerfull enought dam rant. I hope to post a better video how ever I don't want to hrun the engine then have it sieze up where it blocks the back yard.

I like the L76 engine maybe a LQK has this engine I believe it's a direct swap, now that would be worth the afm delete w/ cam upgrade. while engine out of vehical seams like alot of extra work removing a engine w/ cv half shafts.
will a tuned L76 making say 460ish HP & tq blowup the oem transfer case and be to much power for the front diff. and it's tiny drive shaft just saying it seams a tad small dam sorry man to be long.
I need this vehicle to be dependable I know it can be a good vehicle.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

worst case sceaneo ruined rod bearing can that be swapped while engine is installed from underneth w. w/ oil pan off.

I know not first hand LS1 folks upgrade there rod bolts like this or have read it can be done not sure about rod bearings

 

[Mooseman]

A lot of times, if it's run with the collapsed lifter for any length of time, it damages the cam lobe. Sometimes it can be reused but more often than not, it has to be replaced.

The transfer case was not designed for the torque from a 6.0L and would likely self destruct, along with the rear diff and tranny. You would have to swap in a Torsen transfer case and 9.5" rear diff from a TBSS or 9-7x Aero along with, at minimum, a 4L70E or beefed up tranny. Front diff, surprisingly, is also used in the TBSS and has survived well in there. An L76, or any 6.0L LS engine, would be a direct bolt in physically. Would require tuning to make it work though.

If a rod bearing is knocking, 90% chance it also took out the rod journal and also sent shrapnel throughout the engine. Damaged sometimes to the point that the crank isn't reusable.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

worst case sceaneo ruined rod bearing can that be swapped while engine is installed from underneth w. w/ oil pan off.

I know not first hand LS1 folks upgrade there rod bolts like this or have read it can be done not sure about rod bearings somewhat improved video dam

 

[Sprung Monkey]

dam I just got ill.
always been concidering ditching the front & transfer case go 2 wheel drive.
doesn't the L76 normalley come w/ 4L8E would the 8.5" stock rearend hold up to stock L76 power.
never had a vehicle engine lock up while driving what happens it shredds flywheel locking trans an abrupt stopping probablley a few tires pop ect. dam I'm iller.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

8:23pm I'm still ill, this is a weird illness it's not like a stomack ack it's the being lied to from experts modo for today is you may think you know someone or in this case a group of conspiring knowly lied or didn'nt say hey heres another choice really the only dam.
for now it mite be easier to repower w/ another 5.3 used then
delete afm. none afm cam. swap in regular lifter if I remember a valley plate some other stuff tune.out afm.
I'll be looking for engine swaps videos later when I not as ill.
edit: are you saying there will be small pieces of metal in the oil pan?

 

[Mooseman]

I don't think it's a rod. Very weird noise for sure but a rod knock would be very regular. I have a feeling that #1 lifter or its cam lobe shit the bed. Take the valve cover off and check the rockers. Another thing to do is leave the cover off, reconnect the coils and start the engine. Look, listen and feel what's going on.

If in fact the cam is wiped out, it can be repaired by doing a full DOD delete with a new cam and lifters along with a replacement non-DOD valley cover, which is what should have been done in the first place.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

You’re knock was very obvious & loud. If mine is RN must be the lesser version only to grow worst?



Maybe/hopefully the lifter is ticking. at the end of video this ticking speeds up.

I’m more upto redoing the lifters the proper way for round2.

I was going though some times during the lifter swap wasn’t devoting the proper amount of time, was like slow motion process.

Is it possible to visually inspect the cam lobe I’m thinking no because cam is in the middle of block.

In fairness result of oem lifter swape she ran strong as could be expected.if the cam was damaged wouldn’t it ruin grind up the lifter like right away? I was able to put close to 7.5K miles which is a lot for an engine w/ scarhed internals.



I’m sure the death blow was the red lining 6K RPM mud burn out finished off.



The new header bolts are already rusted they had a blackish coating hopefylly them and the y-pipe studs come apart.I’ll hit’um w/ bj blaster.



Can I get away w/ rear wheels on rhino ramps and 17” jack stands on edge of drive engine half on drive deal.

What tool do you use to lock the flywheel in order to break the crank bolt?

I believe the starter is removed and this tool is bolted directly to flywheel.



I really want to relocate my 23.6’vessel (it caused the mud epaszode) however don’t want to risk even more internal engine damge dam.I do blame myself for being stupid and being talked into dam. I sure do feel stupid right now.



I post cam specs of previously ordered cam w/ links to valley plate, choice of lifter.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

leave the cover off, reconnect the coils and start the engine. Look, listen and feel what's going on

yes this is how I confirmed cylinder 1.

 

[Mooseman]

Is it possible to visually inspect the cam lobe I’m thinking no because cam is in the middle of block.

You would have to pull the head, pull the lifters and look down the lifter bore.

In fairness result of oem lifter swape she ran strong as could be expected.if the cam was damaged wouldn’t it ruin grind up the lifter like right away? I was able to put close to 7.5K miles which is a lot for an engine w/ scarhed internals.

If you didn't inspect the cam lobe before dropping a new lifter on it, it could have had some slight damage that wouldn't manifest itself until the cam got damaged enough to really affect the lifter, probably damaging it as well.

What tool do you use to lock the flywheel in order to break the crank bolt?

I know I use a deep socket on a bolt on the the flywheel through the access hole on the 4.2 but I can't remember what I used on the 5.3.

yes this is how I confirmed cylinder 1.

OK so it's confirmed that it's that lifter #1 is bad again?

 

[Sprung Monkey]

well then I can say we looked at cam I wasn't sure what damage looks like the man told me reuse it so he must thought it wasn't scharched

nega tory on removing valve cover and cranking did this on round1. will do again. where's a good place to get a decent delete kit?
I hope to get a chance to remove the valve cover soon weather & bug permitting.

Here’s a OEM https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-mc1390/overview/year/2008

This is always a option .





Here’s a stock speced none dod I like this better.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12689035#overview

Both cams are dialed way back from factory.



Engine has almost 160K miles so prefer a lower power oem cam.

Been reading it’s hard to get the electric cooling fans working properly.

I thought the 2 wheel drive racers where using the 8.5” rear ends.



Where to get dod detuned from ecu?mail order maybe?thanks

 

[Mooseman]

Texas Speed is a popular place to get complete kits but a bit pricey. Those cams seem like a good option. Just have to source all the other parts. I would replace the lifters with trays and timing chain set.

But first confirm that this is your problem.

For tuning, @limequat of lime-swap.com has the best deal going. He can tune it for better performance at the same time as tuning off DOD.

DOD has no effect on the fan control.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

definity will confirm the lifter however it would be my luck where I fix one thing while breaking 2+ things.
I'd hate to fix lifter then find out the crank is shatched up, it's raining right now, I'll get that valve cover off and video her running like that before proceding.

I'll inventory left over parts from round1.

I will be doing probally 100% of the lifting myself, if the y-pipe studs aren’t rusted to bad this could be a smooth head/cam swap. I;m down for round 2 the correct way.



Are these 799cylinder head castings can’t quite make out the middle #. Can’t believe gm would put corvette heads on a 5.3 they must have been the last of this style/shape intake ports from rectangle to the newer LSA I believe is a different type/shape.



I’ve read on wiki that that L33 engines did in fact get 243 heads which are the same as 799 piece of GM history when a engine gets donated an upgraded part which was destinded to be unused on future new vehcils.

There’s a few4thgen trans ams/camaro w/ LS6 heads from factory same head very proven

Tech.bumps LS1 up to 405hp stock.

Have to admit I never noticed these heads on the Saab it’s stock just went up.





Had difficulty removing y-pipe at the header this w/ his 350LB air wrench he got a tad mad when I was stressing his air wrench. These studs where pre soaked in jb blaster couple weeks ahead of time.



Anyway I’m reduced to my handheld 24volt impact.it’s strong but it’s no air tool power.

Plan is ramps on rears 17” stands in front remove Y-pipe then lower front w/ no front wheels let her sit on disc, for header & head removal. I also have a ½” breaker w/ 3’ cheater.

my stomack has a 2-3 LB roll just under my belly button I have a pain. this is from laying belley down on the unpadded front fender & engine bay messing around w/ the oil presure sensor dam..
I wouldn’t mind replacing the exhaust if OBX headers allowed trans pan to drop.

Or do you jack strape the oem y-pipe down ans this is business as useley .



I need a decent torque wrench. Do cylinder heads require a ½ drive? I believe the crank blot is torqued to 120LB.I don’t care if I don’t get the crank bolt exact I can feel 120LB it’s a lot.

During lifter swap I did everything myself,

Which included cleaning, chasing block for head bolts that I snugged down.I cleaned block/head surface w/ a white rolex wheel.what surprised me about this expert he greased just about everything metal to metal mating would lite layer grease even block & heads is this normal to grease .



the only thing the man actely did was torque the head. 2 pass’s 1st 50LB waited some time then 80LBs from middle outward. I ended up doing the 2nd pass.. used a ½.

I had to press kindof hard to achieve the 80LB so I’m assuming I

Can’t I get away w/ 3/8” this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FMPKAD0/?tag=gmtnation-20

It maxs out right at my 80LBs.

If I remember correctly the proper procedure is 3 pass’s maybe 40/50/80LB can’t rememember exactly.

Flywheel lock tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085ZGZ36R/?tag=gmtnation-20

I’ve read that the summit cam is actely comes in a GM made oiled bag true or false it’s a gm gueine.

Dam it’s time to separate my LS speciality tools water pump wrench,valve spring compressor,fuel line remover (I need can’t find mine), now flywheel lock tool dam.

 

[Mooseman]

I didn't take off the manifolds on mine so no y-pipe issues.

Don't forget you'll need a damper puller tool.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

do the the lifters appear normal sorry to be so long in previous post.
and yes summit isn't gonna sell a chin cam right
cam swap on my car I rented a 3 pong puller I'd like to have a universal type same sa what they rent I have a briggs straten flywheel that will eventualy need pulling plus another head..

what do you think is that dam pinging sound. dam again.
notice no check engine light except at ignition.. thanks

 

[Sprung Monkey]

did you disconect the exhaust mannies from the y-pipe. then pull both heads up for new lifters?
I removed exhaust mannies from head then separated the exhausts y-pipe from header.is there an easy way to swap lifters & trays? I'm down for easy if there is such a thing. dam again.

 

[Martyelzz4]

Just do the diagnostics indicated in that thread to find the real cause. That guy in the video don't know squat. Don't permanently jump the relay or it'll just crank all the time. If the neutral safety switch is bad, just replace it instead of doing some ghetto fix.

Our front driveshaft is a bit different. You don't have to pull the rubber boot.

That answers my question.. but I sort of.. decided I was going to need to remove the front drive shaft.