Hopefully that new sensor will take care of it. While you have the tank down, check the top of the fuel pump module for corrosion, especially on the vent line. Fuel lines regularly leak there due to corrosion perforation (been there) and could be possible that the vent line could have the same issue.
Quite possible but this is a much bigger expense.
I would check the pressure nipple at the fuel filter for proper pressure first. If you have good pressure with engine off and with engine running, then I would look at the fuel pressure regulator. I mentioned this earlier, did you ever replace it?
Far easier to check the pressures than to drop the tank.
The FPR is one of those things you just can't really test, so the notion of throwing money at a problem doesn't really apply here, more of a preventative maintenance thing.
I think it's the same one. Just the way the diagram shows it. It's on the fuel pump module. It's the only one I've ever seen on the tank. The other is the fuel level sender of course inside the tank.
It shouldn't affect anything. The pump has a filter of sorts (a sock) so it won't go in there. It might jam up the fuel level sender but I'd say the chances are pretty slim.
I assume that you have checked the evap. system purge valve.
It is up front, drivers side, under the intake manifold.
Find a used one. Haven't heard of these failing a lot so might be worth a shot. Pick-a-part would be cheap.
It may be the fan clutch as it was documented in the past of messing with the 5V reference line. Unplug it and see if it goes away. Yes, you can drive it with the fan disconnected but will get a code for it. Just keep an eye on the temps and don't use the A/C if you can.
Those stupid canister clips break all the time, a ziptie is a great substitute. It's hard to describe how to situate it so the evap line stays on but it sounds like you have some technical skills so it shouldn't be too hard to figure out.
For the fuel sender I would try to get to the fuel pump connector and ohm out the sender. I know it sucks but the odds are more toward a problem with the sender then a wiring issue.
Just out of curiosity can your scan tool read fuel tank pressure sensor voltage?
The new pump should come with a new gasket. I don't know what brand pump you bought the first time but I suspect it was some unknown brand, likely made in China. The Bosch should be fine.
The clips for the lines are available from Dorman a lot cheaper. I found them in the Help! section in the parts store. But for these lines, which don't carry actual fuel, you can get away with the zip ties. 4 small ties would probably do the trick. One around loosely the line, one loosely around the other end, two looped around the other two, tighten the first ones and then tighten last ones.
As far as your frustrations go, all I can say is that I have been there before myself when I first got my TB. All it needed was an engine. Yeah right! Seemed it was just one thing after another. Eventually, I got it done and it has been a reliable truck since. You're under the gun to get this fixed, with a move and new job on top of that, of course all you're gonna feel is frustration and stress. Take care of everything else and then get 'er done after everything else is settled down.
The EXT has a bigger tank and probably a different shape so the pump module is different than the SWB, which could explain the problems with the fuel level sender. Anyway, you'll be able to return that other pump to Amazon as the wrong part.
The filter should be OK. After the pump is replaced, you should be good to go, even if it might still get a P0440. It won't affect driveability.
Sure sounds like it. A back pressure test would confirm it for sure but I had the same issue with mine and the cat was plugged.
That mileage is calculated by the PCM and can be deceiving. Only real MPG is by calculating manually or using Fuelly.