SOLVED! All modules failing randomly or different starting point?

[Elizabetty]

I printed my reports. No interest. I'm fairly charming in person, lol, so I try to be sure I'm not coming off as knowing more or telling them how to do their job but not really gaining me points. He did just ask if I wanted new fuel filter but said it's not necessary. I said to do it just in case so I have a service date to start with going forward since I don't know service history. He said they'll do it but likely won't help anything with MPG or acceleration, which ok fine, but said it could help with it wanting to chug out when pressing the gas pedal with AC or heat on. *Shrug* Even if not related to performance issues, I'm happy to know what I've done as the new owner and can service it going forward based on today.

 

[Elizabetty]

I printed my reports. No interest. I'm fairly charming in person, lol, so I try to be sure I'm not coming off as knowing more or telling them how to do their job but not really gaining me points. He did just ask if I wanted new fuel filter but said it's not necessary. I said to do it just in case so I have a service date to start with going forward since I don't know service history. He said they'll do it but likely won't help anything with MPG or acceleration, which ok fine, but said it could help with it wanting to chug out when pressing the gas pedal with AC or heat on. *Shrug* Even if not related to performance issues, I'm happy to know what I've done as the new owner and can service it going forward based on today.

I'm going to reply to my own post with a huge eyeroll and confused expression, because I could have sworn a clogged or dirty fuel filter did affect MPG. Have I been misguided in that belief over my vehicle driving years?

 

[Reprise]

@Elizabetty ... Ugh. I had the feeling based on what I was reading that you were going to have a bad experience with your shop (and a fairly big bill at the end). I'll spare going over your posts in detail, but at this point, as we've already mentioned... a new PCM / BCM should be low on the list of suspects, based on the given info -- despite what your shop is suggesting.

At the risk of impugning them, they are fairly easy parts for them to replace that will command a lot of cost + markup. And as you may have already figured out, we're all fairly big DIY'ers here, and prefer to eschew shops, except when absolutely necessary. Especially GM dealer shops ($).

The age of the platform exacerbates this (your truck is 22 model years old, for example), in three ways: a) Knowledgeable resources, b) general deterioration of the infrastructure over time (one example: wiring and plastics become brittle), and c) new parts availability (rearing its head more and more as time goes on, for a couple of different reasons, with this platform)

Tying in with age... noise / vibration / harshness (NVH) issues become more frequent over time; in many cases, the trick is discerning 'annoying' vs. 'disabling', and in the case of the former, sometimes deciding if fixing it is really worth the effort, taking into account things like 'expected remaining life' (both mechanically and from a rust perspective, etc.)


Where in WI generally, are you located? (upper / middle / lower third), and how serious are you about doing your own maintenance? I did see that you stated you owned / maintained a Duramax; that, given with your willingness to track issues via schematics, tells me that you likely have the aptitude to gain the knowledge which you might lack, currently. Also, because I didn't see it in the thread... how many miles are on this little beastie? That gives us some insight on how much maintenance you will likely need catching up on.

Unheated garages are fairly easy to rectify with a trip to Menards for a cheap electric space heater, along with taking a break for a hot beverage when needed. 🔥 Some of our Canadian members don't even have garages of their own (e.g.; when there's a will... ) E.g.; you'd already be a leg up on some of us

 

[TJBaker57]

These two things run on Retained Accessory Power (RAP).

Note/clarification. If you do not have an EXT (long wheelbase) model then you do not have an RAP relay. Mine is a standard short wheelbase model. I have no RAP relay. It is messages from the BCM on the serial data bus that causes our radio etc. to remain awake and operating for a period of time after key shutoff.

 

[TJBaker57]

I am not at all surprised by your experience at the shop. I would be tempted to say that an overwhelming amount of mechanics are lost when it comes to elecrical issues. Many have no fundamental knowledge of such things and merely follow published diagnostic procedures without understanding why they are doing this test or that test.

 

[Elizabetty]

@Elizabetty ... Ugh. I had the feeling based on what I was reading that you were going to have a bad experience with your shop (and a fairly big bill at the end). I'll spare going over your posts in detail, but at this point, as we've already mentioned... a new PCM / BCM should be low on the list of suspects, based on the given info -- despite what your shop is suggesting.

At the risk of impugning them, they are fairly easy parts for them to replace that will command a lot of cost + markup. And as you may have already figured out, we're all fairly big DIY'ers here, and prefer to eschew shops, except when absolutely necessary. Especially GM dealer shops ($).

The age of the platform exacerbates this (your truck is 22 model years old, for example), in three ways: a) Knowledgeable resources, b) general deterioration of the infrastructure over time (one example: wiring and plastics become brittle), and c) new parts availability (rearing its head more and more as time goes on, for a couple of different reasons, with this platform)

Tying in with age... noise / vibration / harshness (NVH) issues become more frequent over time; in many cases, the trick is discerning 'annoying' vs. 'disabling', and in the case of the former, sometimes deciding if fixing it is really worth the effort, taking into account things like 'expected remaining life' (both mechanically and from a rust perspective, etc.)


Where in WI generally, are you located? (upper / middle / lower third), and how serious are you about doing your own maintenance? I did see that you stated you owned / maintained a Duramax; that, given with your willingness to track issues via schematics, tells me that you likely have the aptitude to gain the knowledge which you might lack, currently. Also, because I didn't see it in the thread... how many miles are on this little beastie? That gives us some insight on how much maintenance you will likely need catching up on.

Unheated garages are fairly easy to rectify with a trip to Menards for a cheap electric space heater, along with taking a break for a hot beverage when needed. 🔥 Some of our Canadian members don't even have garages of their own (e.g.; when there's a will... ) E.g.; you'd already be a leg up on some of us

Not to be a whiner, I just meant I don't have a building in general to work in so I get cold and don't think a space heater would get me very far LOL but I totally get what you're saying and if I really want to do this, I will find the space.

The shop I went to was not a GM shop so the cost wasn't as bad as it could have been to do the very little that they did. They did actually say that this is a really nice vehicle for its age and that it would be worth tinkering with to figure it all out but again defaulting to no codes, they don't know what to do. On that note, I am willing to do my own work. It did take me a long time to figure out what I was doing and get comfortable removing anything when working on my truck, but there were small things that were doable for me.

I have 159,000 mi on this. Unfortunately, with the previous owner not having any records of when things were done, I'm not really sure what things I should be looking at to get even more miles out of it. For example, is there something as simple as belts I should be inspecting because they would give telltale signs visually and if addressed sooner rather than later, I could prevent an expensive problem? Those are things I don't know unless I research and look up each specific thing on a whim. So far, I am 100% set on learning to clean the throttle body myself. I firmly believe that needs to be done.

I want to do the ignition switch, just in case, but that does make me a little more nervous even though it doesn't appear to be too complicated for me. I simply have a feeling of hesitation when it comes to doing it myself. I'm sure it's just the lack of experience.

When it comes to the big stuff such as the ball joints for the front tires and the missing sway bar link they found on the rear passenger side, I definitely will be going to a shop.

It did give me a sense of relief to know that despite the age (TB, not mine lol), and despite the lack of interest in anything I had to say about what is going on with it, they seem to think this thing has been maintained fairly decently and is in good shape and worth taking care of.

I actually posted a Craigslist post looking for trailblazer enthusiasts to spend some time with me and teach me some things and help me not only take care of what may need addressing now, but understand what I'm looking and listening for going forward so I'm not worried about every sound when it's an older vehicle and like you said, there is a difference between annoying and disabling noises. I may get lucky and find a guy in the area that has time on his hands and is willing to be my mentor because I feel I have the ability to learn but lack the skills and experience of doing the work. Having someone by my side will be helpful and I may have already found someone but I don't want any Tom Dick or Harry messing around with things because he's bored. LOL I want to be sure they know trailblazers since each vehicle type seems to have its own little quirks and trying to compare what's going on to a standardized version across all makes and models isn't always the best route.

I am located in central wisconsin. I'm sort of in the middle of nowhere so any city that would be considered big, and even those aren't really big, are all about an hour away which isn't too bad in the grand scheme of things. It's only a struggle when trying to find somebody actually local. Slim pickings.

 

[Elizabetty]

Note/clarification. If you do not have an EXT (long wheelbase) model then you do not have an RAP relay. Mine is a standard short wheelbase model. I have no RAP relay. It is messages from the BCM on the serial data bus that causes our radio etc. to remain awake and operating for a period of time after key shutoff.

View attachment 105955

Thank you. I believe I have the short wheelbase. That was my understanding with the LS. Here's hoping I got something as simple as that right LOL This information and diagram is helpful. The serial data bus is located in the driver side dash panel I believe and that is the piece that seems to be wrapped up with extra electrical tape and almost flops around. After pushing the electrical tape down a bit firmer around where the wires connect to it, I seem to have less random codes coming and going for communication but this could be total coincidence. This is particularly true or coincidental for codes that were BCM related in the description. Not sure if it matters, but one of the wires that I can't see how it makes contact because of the tape is purple, and I seem to think in the diagrams I was going over, purple is important with what I had going on. I have been looking into learning how that piece works because it's my understanding that any connections that aren't good in data bus are going to cause all sorts of electrical issues and I don't like how loosely seated it is, for lack of a better description. Normally, I will see electrical tape around wires before entering the connector areas.. I apologize for the poor terminology while I don't have Google pages open in front of me to help me out.. but I don't typically see willy nilly wrapping around the actual connector even partially over where the wires enter it like I do in this serial data bus piece. In fact, the last couple wires on each end are bent a bit from tape pushing them down so I can't even see if they are in it correctly. Definitely looks "not-standard."

The shop I was at today did not have any knowledge of what this piece even is. They kept thinking I was talking about the BCM and I kept saying no it's the piece to the left with the other wires coming out of it etc etc, told them the name of it with no luck, so I believe it was lost on them and I will be learning how that needs to be connected with wires correctly as I get braver with wiring. Maybe I'm way wrong on what it is, but everything I found online looks like that piece in the panel of the driver side door dash. I thought I was on to something with addressing that, but they are attempting to steer me away from any communication issues stemming from it.

 

[TJBaker57]

may get lucky and find a guy in the area that has time on his hands and is willing to be my mentor because I feel I have the ability to learn but lack the skills and experience of doing the work.

Ahem.... or you may find a GAL in your area that has the knowledge and ability!!!

 

[TJBaker57]

The serial data bus is located in the driver side dash panel I believe and that is the piece that seems to be wrapped up with extra electrical tape and almost flops around.

Like most used vehicles others have been in there doing this or that and things don't always get put back as they were originally. That item is commonly called a splice pack. And inside it is a small metal item that looks like a comb, flat with teeth of a sort. Each computer module in the truck (and there are many) has a serial data wire that goes from wherever that particular module is back to that splice pack. It is there at the splice pack that they all get connected to each other to enable all to communicate with each other. The purple wire goes from that splice pack over to where you plug in your Bluedriver dongle so the Bluedriver can talk with the modules in the truck.

 

[Elizabetty]

this is what I mean by what looks like extra electrical tape and not being able to see how all wires are entering the piece itself. No other connectors or modules or anything I have looked at has tape around it in a similar manner. I would only see the tape on the wires leading up to it. It made it stand out to me as odd and possibly problematic.

 

[Elizabetty]

Like most used vehicles others have been in there doing this or that and things don't always get put back as they were originally. That item is commonly called a splice pack. And inside it is a small metal item that looks like a comb, flat with teeth of a sort. Each computer module in the truck (and there are many) has a setial data wire that goes from wherever that particular module is back to that splice pack. It is there at the splice pack that they all get connected to each other to enable all to communicate with each other. The purple wire goes from that splice pack over to where you plug in your Bluedriver dongle so the Bluedriver can talk with the modules in the truck.

Thank you. I posted a picture of what I see. That's funny you mentioned splice pack because I did call it that at one point during a phone call a few days ago and that also was responded to with I've never heard of that LOL after that phone call is when I went digging a bit deeper and stumbled across serial data bus so when somebody mentioned it here, I was able to put two and two together.

 

[Reprise]

Not to be a whiner,

No worries. I've seen whiners on this forum. You don't fit the pattern.

I have 159,000 mi on this.

Generally, we assume that any new vehicle we get has been maintained poorly / not at all, unless we have evidence to the contrary (e.g.; the previous owner can show us a stack of parts / repair receipts). The good news is, that assuming a minimum of care was taken (kept the engine oil changed), you could see another 150K miles out of this truck, based on what I'm reading. It will require maintenance, of course... but that's why you're here. And not to toot our collective horn too loudly, but I don't think there's a better place to be, for this platform.

When it comes to the big stuff such as the ball joints for the front tires and the missing sway bar link they found on the rear passenger side, I definitely will be going to a shop.

One downside of GM trucks in general is that they tend to go through (front) suspension parts quickly. Suspension is actually fairly easy, but it does require some specific tools, and some upper body strength (or a friend who has both)

I actually posted a Craigslist post looking for trailblazer enthusiasts to spend some time with me

Not trying to mansplain things here, as I'm sure you already know, but... be careful with this. We like our members to join us for a good long time, and not to have to wonder as to their whereabouts.

I may get lucky and find a guy in the area that has time on his hands and is willing to be my mentor because I feel I have the ability to learn but lack the skills and experience of doing the work. Having someone by my side will be helpful and I may have already found someone but I don't want any Tom Dick or Harry messing around with things because he's bored.

Well, my name isn't 'Tom' or 'Harry', and I'm (generally) not a 'Dick'.

While I do charge expenses for 'mobile repairs' (e.g.; you're stranded away from home and need someone on an immediate basis), I'd be amenable to making the drive out sometime in the future for a day or two to go over your TB, assess the condition, and provide some training / guidance on what / how to maintain it, going forward. The only thing I'd charge for that would be something like, 'lunch'.

Per my .sig, I'm close to the WI border, and I have a GM Tech2 scanner. I'm not taking the RV out west this winter (again) , but I do plan on a visit to the DC area in the March timeframe. So that leaves me some time until then to 'pay it forward', if you're interested. One caveat: My Envoy has a V8, so I'm not as experienced with the inner workings of the 4.2L as others are here, for 'HD-type' repairs. But I know my way around the platform, and I'm likely the closest member to you, if you're looking for help (and if I'm being too forward, my apologies).

 

[TJBaker57]

this is what I mean by what looks like extra electrical tape and not being able to see how all wires are entering the piece itself.

I have seen similar looking taped up wiring there. For the record the two blue and one black connector are connected to the same single item there and that is your TCCM (transfer case control module). It does all the 4 wheel drive stuff.

And if you by chance see 4 wires with perhaps some white paper labels and the wires are just cut off and hanging there not connected to anything at all.... as seen below (a thicker orange and blue, then two smaller wires) That is also normal,,, those are for installing a brake controller for a trailer. I am not certain that all trucks have these though.

 

[TJBaker57]

Thank you. I posted a picture of what I see. That's funny you mentioned splice pack because I did call it that at one point during a phone call a few days ago and that also was responded to with I've never heard of that LOL after that phone call is when I went digging a bit deeper and stumbled across serial data bus so when somebody mentioned it here, I was able to put two and two together.

Here is the wiring diagram for the data lines. It shows the splice pack, labeled SP205. The other one they show labeled SP206 is underneath the carpet under the back seat on the passenger side.

 

[TJBaker57]

For a learning experiment today while running errands I recorded the data stream at the point I turned the key off until the time when the radio shut off. It was right at ten minutes give or take a couple of seconds. I was also interested in what form the message from the BCM would take when advising the truck network to go inactive.12:25:29 is when the key was fully off and removed and 12:35:27 is when everything was told to shut down.



The 3080 lines between are node status messages from the modules that are still active during this time between key off and removed and when a door opens or the time runs out. They send a message about every two seconds. Looks like this...

 

[Elizabetty]

What you're likely hearing are the stepper motors for the gauges in the cluster.

The ignition switch is relatively easy to diagnose and replace. Check out these videos from SMA:

Cued to the relevant part, skipping the diagnostics with the advanced scanners:

This one is more in-depth on how to take apart the column and replacing the switch:

I watched this guy twice and if it is literally what this guy is doing in his video, I can't even believe I was doubting myself.

 

[Elizabetty]

No worries. I've seen whiners on this forum. You don't fit the pattern.

Generally, we assume that any new vehicle we get has been maintained poorly / not at all, unless we have evidence to the contrary (e.g.; the previous owner can show us a stack of parts / repair receipts). The good news is, that assuming a minimum of care was taken (kept the engine oil changed), you could see another 150K miles out of this truck, based on what I'm reading. It will require maintenance, of course... but that's why you're here. And not to toot our collective horn too loudly, but I don't think there's a better place to be, for this platform.


One downside of GM trucks in general is that they tend to go through (front) suspension parts quickly. Suspension is actually fairly easy, but it does require some specific tools, and some upper body strength (or a friend who has both)


Not trying to mansplain things here, as I'm sure you already know, but... be careful with this. We like our members to join us for a good long time, and not to have to wonder as to their whereabouts.



Well, my name isn't 'Tom' or 'Harry', and I'm (generally) not a 'Dick'.

While I do charge expenses for 'mobile repairs' (e.g.; you're stranded away from home and need someone on an immediate basis), I'd be amenable to making the drive out sometime in the future for a day or two to go over your TB, assess the condition, and provide some training / guidance on what / how to maintain it, going forward. The only thing I'd charge for that would be something like, 'lunch'.

Per my .sig, I'm close to the WI border, and I have a GM Tech2 scanner. I'm not taking the RV out west this winter (again) , but I do plan on a visit to the DC area in the March timeframe. So that leaves me some time until then to 'pay it forward', if you're interested. One caveat: My Envoy has a V8, so I'm not as experienced with the inner workings of the 4.2L as others are here, for 'HD-type' repairs. But I know my way around the platform, and I'm likely the closest member to you, if you're looking for help (and if I'm being too forward, my apologies).

Not too forward. Isn't that what's called Midwest nice? LOL... May take ya up on it. Gonna tackle the ignition switch sometime this week. Busy week but I'm looking forward to doing it actually! Getting my ducks in a row over here and another one waddled off. Cruise stopped working tonight. Surprised? Not I....

 

[Elizabetty]

Dorman or Standard? When giving your suggestion, please let me know if you mean in general to go with that brand or if just in this scenario as the better quality part. Thank you! (Apologies if already mentioned. Tried to dig through my novels and everyone's footnotes but got nowhere.)

 

[Elizabetty]

Here is the wiring diagram for the data lines. It shows the splice pack, labeled SP205. The other one they show labeled SP206 is underneath the carpet under the back seat on the passenger side.

View attachment 105960


View attachment 105961

Ok TJ, this is where you exhibit a lot of patience and no internal eye roles LOL (you may have to dumb things down a little bit if this should be obvious and I'm not getting it) --- I don't have OnStar or premium sound and those are things I see mentioned. Is it possible there's a different diagram for me or does this still apply? Specifically asking because of liftgate/OnStar info.

 

[Mooseman]

Normally, I'd go with ACDelco but it seems to be NLA now. In that case, go with Standard. Dorman for anything electrical is garbage.

 

[Mooseman]

Cruise stopped working tonight.

That happens when particular codes come up. Even if the money (engine) light isn't on, the code may be pending and disabling cruise. P1440 comes to mind.

 

[Elizabetty]

That happens when particular codes come up. Even if the money (engine) light isn't on, the code may be pending and disabling cruise. P1440 comes to mind.

Normally, I'd go with ACDelco but it seems to be NLA now. In that case, go with Standard. Dorman for anything electrical is garbage.

Definitely familiar with AC Delco as a brand I would lean to when available for anything really. So until anyone pipes up and starts fighting over which is better, LOL just kidding, I will go with your suggestion of Standard over Dorman for electrical. They were a bit more expensive but I certainly don't want this truck to end up being a mess of "you get what you pay for" if I go too cheap. TY.

 

[Elizabetty]

That happens when particular codes come up. Even if the money (engine) light isn't on, the code may be pending and disabling cruise. P1440 comes to mind.

That happens when particular codes come up. Even if the money (engine) light isn't on, the code may be pending and disabling cruise. P1440 comes to mi

Normally, I'd go with ACDelco but it seems to be NLA now. In that case, go with Standard. Dorman for anything electrical is garbage.

$44.99 at O'Reilly's but $17.02 at Home Depot? Same brand and part number as far as I can tell. What am I missing here with extreme price differences? I mean, Home Depot shouldn't be like Amazon where there's a risk of a third party shipping you a supposed part that isn't really the part you think. I already went through that with fake hair dye. Don't want to go through it with fake branded parts.

 

[TJBaker57]

don't have OnStar or premium sound and those are things I see mentioned. Is it possible there's a different diagram for me or does this still apply? Specifically asking because of liftgate/OnStar info.

The same diagram applies. Sometimes there will be notations in wiring diagrams for optional equipment and sometime not.

 

[TJBaker57]

Cruise stopped working tonight.

One common cause of cruise not working is a brake light switch issue. The brake light switch in the truck is in reality 3 switches in the one unit. 2 of the switches are 'ON' when the pedal is NOT pressed and one of them is 'OFF' when the pedal is NOT pressed. Only one of those three switches does the actual brake lights, the one that is normally 'OFF'. Anywho.... the cruise normally disengages when the brake pedal is depressed. If the switch is dirty or worn and making poor contact it can cause the cruise to disengage. I cannot remember if this is due to a code or just due to the switch itself.

 

[Elizabetty]

One common cause of cruise not working is a brake light switch issue. The brake light switch in the truck is in reality 3 switches in the one unit. 2 of the switches are 'ON' when the pedal is NOT pressed and one of them is 'OFF' when the pedal is NOT pressed. Only one of those three switches does the actual brake lights, the one that is normally 'OFF'. Anywho.... the cruise normally disengages when the brake pedal is depressed. If the switch is dirty or worn and making poor contact it can cause the cruise to disengage. I cannot remember if this is due to a code or just due to the switch itself.

Thanks. Two of my codes in the original post are somewhere deep on Google as being somehow related to cruise control and HVAC as well. I think I have a vacuum problem which I started a different thread on and maybe I'll get lucky and the two are related but even if they're not, I'll have to address it. In the meantime, I thank you for this post because I did see information about the brake switch and I have been digging into that this morning. Ty!

 

[Mooseman]

$44.99 at O'Reilly's but $17.02 at Home Depot? Same brand and part number as far as I can tell. What am I missing here with extreme price differences? I mean, Home Depot shouldn't be like Amazon where there's a risk of a third party shipping you a supposed part that isn't really the part you think. I already went through that with fake hair dye. Don't want to go through it with fake branded parts.

That's the case for any brick and mortar parts store, always more expensive. I only go there when I need it right now. Otherwise, I go on Amazon and RockAuto. I even get my oil and oil filters from RA as they're cheaper than anything in Canada, even with shipping. Speaking of which, they post a 5% code here all the time although their last one expired in Oct (checking up on that). Just watch out for their shipping fees while comparing to Amazon.

 

[TJBaker57]

So why do we replace ignition switches anyway? What exactly goes wrong with them? Let's take a look.

These switches can be opened up for a look inside. There are little tabs that hold the covers on as well as holding the two main body halves together. Of course I had to take one or more apart to investigate.




So when the key and cylinder are turned it turns a black plastic piece with gear teeth on it (not seen here) and that turns the white plastic gear seen in the switch. The sides of this white plastic gear have ramps on them where small metal plungers ride up and down the ramps. These plungers push up on metal contact arms with pads on them that connect or disconnect the particular circuit they are wired to. Each time a circuit that has current flowing through it is disconnected a small spark jumps across these pads where the flow of electrons has been disrupted. This degrades the pad with some small metal transfer from one pad to the other and carbon builds up to a point where it interferes with the connection. Here is a look at some examples of good and bad contact pads.






In this last image directly above if one looks closely and maybe zoom in a bit you can see the degradation of the lower contact pad.

 

[TJBaker57]

I did see information about the brake switch and I have been digging into that this morning. Ty!

If you do get to the point in diagnostics where you want to remove the brake switch for inspection/cleaning etc. I have a bunch of pictures of that item disassembled as well. It can be a real pain to get it out but it can be fairly easy with the right tools and instructions. The clip that secures it is what make the job difficult.

 

[Elizabetty]

That's the case for any brick and mortar parts store, always more expensive. I only go there when I need it right now. Otherwise, I go on Amazon and RockAuto. I even get my oil and oil filters from RA as they're cheaper than anything in Canada, even with shipping. Speaking of which, they post a 5% code here all the time although their last one expired in Oct (checking up on that). Just watch out for their shipping fees while comparing to Amazon.

ty. I was actually hesitant about Amazon because I was told a lot of times the items are advertised but you receive a knockoff version.

 

[Mooseman]

Some are, most not. Usually the price will be a big tip-off. There were a bunch of fake ACDelco spark plugs but the price was ridiculously low. eBay is a BIG problem for that.

Counterfeit ACDelco Plugs

 

[Elizabetty]

Hey everyone. I didn't start a new thread for this, even though this one is long, because it's still related to my electrical suggestions of ignition switch. Apologies for keeping this going forever.

I'm finally tackling that ignition switch today but I feel kind of stumped. Anytime I've looked into how to take the plastic panel off the bottom of the steering column as well as in the video that was supplied here from youtube, it doesn't appear I have screws underneath holding it on. When I look through the holes, I do see a flat shiny silver end that I can't put a screwdriver into, like it's the bottom of a bolt, I see wires through the bigger hole in the middle and I don't see anything at all other than a plastic hole where a screw might go but there isn't one in the 3rd hole. When I attempt to take the panel off, I can release it on both sides but it definitely won't come off the column as if it is screwed on and I don't have a screw to access. It feels bolted in the center where I see that silver piece of hardware up in there that it appears to be tight and not releasing. Any tips on how I move forward?

 

[Elizabetty]

Hey everyone. I didn't start a new thread for this, even though this one is long, because it's still related to my electrical suggestions of ignition switch. Apologies for keeping this going forever.

I'm finally tackling that ignition switch today but I feel kind of stumped. Anytime I've looked into how to take the plastic panel off the bottom of the steering column as well as in the video that was supplied here from youtube, it doesn't appear I have screws underneath holding it on. When I look through the holes, I do see a flat shiny silver end that I can't put a screwdriver into, like it's the bottom of a bolt, I see wires through the bigger hole in the middle and I don't see anything at all other than a plastic hole where a screw might go but there isn't one in the 3rd hole. When I attempt to take the panel off, I can release it on both sides but it definitely won't come off the column as if it is screwed on and I don't have a screw to access. It feels bolted in the center where I see that silver piece of hardware up in there that it appears to be tight and not releasing. Any tips on how I move forward?

I'm thinking it's not bolted on but in the picture I'm posting right now I can see how at the top behind the steering wheel there is a ledge of plastic that needs to come out from underneath there and I know there's a clip that appears to be loose but at the bottom where it's near the dash I can't push the panel backwards to pull it out from under the steering wheel because of whatever this lower piece of beige plastic in the knee area is called. Is that part of my issue and should it come off in order for me to free the panel? I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong on something that should be so simple. I tried pushing it down in towards the dash first to try to get past this knee area plastic but that doesn't seem to do the trick either to free it.

 

[Elizabetty]

I'm thinking it's not bolted on but in the picture I'm posting right now I can see how at the top behind the steering wheel there is a ledge of plastic that needs to come out from underneath there and I know there's a clip that appears to be loose but at the bottom where it's near the dash I can't push the panel backwards to pull it out from under the steering wheel because of whatever this lower piece of beige plastic in the knee area is called. Is that part of my issue and should it come off in order for me to free the panel? I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong on something that should be so simple. I tried pushing it down in towards the dash first to try to get past this knee area plastic but that doesn't seem to do the trick either to free it.

Holy s***. I don't know if I just broke it but I got it somehow LOL here we go!

 

[Elizabetty]

We can consider this thread closed! I will be referring to all my wiring and electrical information you guys supplied when I move on to my next adventure but for right now, whether it helps things or not, I'm happy to report that I was able to do the ignition switch and nothing seems funny right now as far as not having those little pieces aligned right or new lights on the dash. The key went in and it started up and I think we're good so watch for new posts as I move on to using your information on my next DIY. Thanks everyone!

 

[TJBaker57]

We can consider this thread closed! I will be referring to all my wiring and electrical information you guys supplied when I move on to my next adventure but for right now, whether it helps things or not, I'm happy to report that I was able to do the ignition switch and nothing seems funny right now as far as not having those little pieces aligned right or new lights on the dash. The key went in and it started up and I think we're good so watch for new posts as I move on to using your information on my next DIY. Thanks everyone!

Well before it is closed out here is a look at what was holding you up. You needed an E5 socket for that silly bolt holding stuff together.




I think most of us break off the first one we do. You can see a little plastic in the second picture above. Came from a junkyard truck.

 

[Elizabetty]

Well before it is closed out here is a look at what was holding you up. You needed an E5 socket for that silly bolt holding stuff together.

View attachment 105993View attachment 105994View attachment 105995


I think most of us break off the first one we do. You can see a little plastic in the second picture above. Came from a junkyard truck.

I'm just happy it went back together and started because I can deal with a little bit of broken plastic though I didn't see any so maybe I got lucky. I still took note of this for future knowledge. ;

 

[Elizabetty]

Quick comment. Some electrical quirks are suspected to maybe be from the leaking camshaft solenoid putting a lot of oil into the electrical connector causing random communication issues. I don't think cleaning it is gonna fix it from the pools that pour out when disconnected so I'll likely replace that connector. I realize this won't solve all electrical I'm working on tracing but I do know that can't be good.

 

[TJBaker57]

Some electrical quirks are suspected to maybe be from the leaking camshaft solenoid putting a lot of oil into the electrical connector causing random communication issues. I

Just to clarify. Communications occur only on the serial data wires. There are no communications happening on any sensor or solenoid or power wires like the CPAS or the camshaft position sensor etc.

 

[Elizabetty]

Well that's concerning considering I got that information from a shop in town LOL maybe I need to stick with only talking to you guys haha