littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,265
I wouldn't do it for someone... Just incase something went wrong I'd feel horrible. I'm okay with messing up my own stuff though. There's a couple of guys who you could ask though.
Members projector retrofits
- Thread starter Mounce
- Start date
There are a many retrofitters out there that will do it for $500 to $1000 depending on how crazy you went with it.
We have a member here that was doing retros, @Aarkon , but not sure if he is still doing them. Maybe shoot him a PM.
There are a few members on the forum that had their retro built by Aarkon.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,265
I mean if you do it yourself you're looking at about 400. Maybe a little less. If you do the mini h1 or d2s it's not bad. Maybe 8-12 hours straight total. Mine was 2 days but I had to go rescue the sierra in the middle and figure out how that damn bowl mount unscrewed.
There's a lot that goes into that price. Just the MMH1 7.0 with projectors, shoruds, H1 HIDs, ballasts, and relay harness run $270. Just the projectors is $135 and you could go another route with the HID kit. You will also want to buy a new set of headlights which will run another $70-$80. Right there you are already at $360. Add in the cost of labor and shipping, you are easily at $500 for just a basic retro.
I agree with Carlton, with your skill set, a retro should be a piece of cake. I knocked out my wife's F-150 in about 4 hours with the MMH1 6.0s. $270 for the kit and $60 for the headlights, $330 total. If you make the time, no reason you should not be able to complete a retro for around the same price, maybe less with the coupon code below.
And time.... Well.... A few of us have been working on some sort of retro for a while now. Hell, I am over a year now since starting my fog light retro.
There are cheaper products out there than what https://www.theretrofitsource.com/ sells. I have seen complete retro kits for $100 on EBay. I cannot speak to the quality or reliability though. Personally, if I am going to spend the time and effort for a retro, I want to use quality products from a trusted and well known company. TRS's warranties and customer service is second to none.
TRSHJ will get you 10% off your order if you decide to go that route
Thanks for all the info, I have been a member of the retrofit source for quite awhile but only spend my time in the LED section.
Are the Mini H1s threaded?
Appreciate the support and help on this!
Which projector would you recommend with a threaded shaft.If you go with the threaded shaft projectors, and don't be like @Sparky and me with fancy pants complicated builds, you could probably get things done in a weekend. With the skills you've shown with your tails, probably a lot faster than that.
Are the Mini H1s threaded?
Appreciate the support and help on this!
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,265
The mini h1 is threaded. I'm actually doing a retro in the voy this week. I know the 6.0s you had to grind the bowl a lot (short threaded shaft) so we'll see. The 7.0 supposedly has a longer shaft.
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Dang it I just placed an order with TRS and used a 5% off code. I could have saved a few more bucks with that 10%.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,265
07TrailyLS
Member
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,265
I got my ls depo headlights for my tb on amazon for around 120. The eagle eyes are a little cheaper.
07TrailyLS
Member
wow! i dont know what ive been doing wrong, but over the past 6 or 7 months ive searched ebay for depos and eagle eyes and saw most results topping 300 dollars. will definitely look again especially for 120. thanks @littleblazer!
EDIT: just went to amazon and put a left and a right in the shopping cart. 113 dollars. Excitement level is at a ten. On my way to TRS now! thanks again man!
EDIT: just went to amazon and put a left and a right in the shopping cart. 113 dollars. Excitement level is at a ten. On my way to TRS now! thanks again man!
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Blckshdw
Moderator
This is where I got mine from for my latest retro. Brand wasn't listed in the ad, but I didn't care, they turned out to be Eagle Eyes 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/13066156919...IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649&tag=gmtnation-20
http://www.ebay.com/itm/13066156919...IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649&tag=gmtnation-20
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Can tell by the picture of the back. Eagle Eyes ships with those stabilizer bars behind the rubber caps (for shipping). Another brand (crystal lights or something like that) don't have those when they ship and they are actually permasealed like OEM are.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,265
I must say, compared to the packing on my 6.0s these blow them out of the water. And the finish on everything, even the bulbs is better. I almost didn't want to open everything. Bulbs have removable wires now so you don't have to mess with the amp plugs it's freaking awesome. Really happy.
I wonder if you were getting results for the newer lt headlights? I know they are quite a bit more.
NateDG
Member
Uh oh... A new project to compliment the others I still haven't finished...
Blckshdw
Moderator
story of my modding life 
So what's the initial plan for the next retro? Inquiring minds wanna know!
NateDG
Member
I'm actually just planning to replace the MD2S 2.0s that are currently in my low beam with these 3.0s. I like the output much better. I took some comparative pics of the 2 outputs but because I only use a cell phone camera, the much better hot spot of the 3.0 totally drowned everything out. I'm also planning on making clear corners with a ceiling light defuser panel (using your write-up) and I'm putting 3" morimoto switchback strips behind them.
So what's the initial plan for the next retro? Inquiring minds wanna know!
Edit: here's the difference... And yea, I'm an idiot and ordered the wrong ones but I have the correct ones now, just no pics yet...
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Blckshdw
Moderator
NateDG
Member
I already got the correct ones, I'll just have the RHD ones laying around for a rainy day. I don't think the shield's could be simply swapped around, I'll take pics of what I'm talking about when I get off work; but it's cast with some kinda ramp that's easier to show than explain...did you know you were getting right hand drive projectors? I dunno if you can disassemble the shield and flip it over so is left hand drive or not.
Edit: progressing a little bit... 2.0 vs. 3.0...
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Blckshdw
Moderator
I didn't think they could. I forget where it was, but I saw a pair of projectors where you could do that. Not sure if it was the early matchbox ones or what.
But having multiple sets of projectors laying around sounds like me. I've got the LS430s and an old set of MD2S 2.0 in a box, as well as those b stock MK mini LED light bars still
But having multiple sets of projectors laying around sounds like me. I've got the LS430s and an old set of MD2S 2.0 in a box, as well as those b stock MK mini LED light bars still
NateDG
Member
I already got the correct ones, I'll just have the RHD ones laying around for a rainy day. I don't think the shield's could be simply swapped around, I'll take pics of what I'm talking about when I get off work; but it's cast with some kinda ramp that's easier to show than explain...
Edit: progressing a little bit... 2.0 vs. 3.0...
So one side down... can't really see too much of a difference but the 3.0s have larger lenses. The shroud leaves a pretty large gap towards the rear. I wonder if the deeper version of these shrouds would fix that...
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
Looks good. I really need to order some cheap basic projectors and go for it.
Blckshdw
Moderator
That's one of those things that only you will notice.
I feel the same way about the way I mounted the RX350s with the Ocular shrouds. But no one seems to notice it but me.
Yes sir, yes you do!
I feel the same way about the way I mounted the RX350s with the Ocular shrouds. But no one seems to notice it but me.
Yes sir, yes you do!
NateDG
Member
Thanks man, it's pretty rewarding to sit back and see what you've done, and even more so when you can light up the night so well.
You can order "B stock" projectors from TRS which are basically untuned, factory direct projectors which may have some scratches or scuffs or whatever. They're just not perfect, is the description. You can get a pair of MD2S 3.0s in "O" lens for $35 or "X" lens for 60. They also have FX-Rs for $55 or 60, and some basic MH1s for $20. In my mind, that was the best way to practice. It's worth a look IMO.
07TrailyLS
Member
Hey guys. Read through the whole thread again last night and from some posts early last year from @Aarkon and a few others, it seems the d2s have superior lighting over the h1's. Now before I make the purchase, and it being half way through the following year, I'm going to ask this.
Do the newest d2 projectors (version 3? I think) reign superior to the mini h1(series 7) in light output?
Do the newest d2 projectors (version 3? I think) reign superior to the mini h1(series 7) in light output?
NateDG
Member
That's kinda subjective. I've read the width of the MH1 7.0 is insane. I am absolutely delighted with my MD2S 3.0s however, using Morimoto 5k D2H bulbs. The good thing about the MD2S projectors is they can use OEM bulbs which I've read makes them perform even better.
The MD2S 4.0 will be dropping soon, if you could hold out for those, you could potentially be one of the first here to report on them. The leaked CAD rendering of them shows a curved cutoff shield like the MH1 7 so they should be shredders for sure.
Blckshdw
Moderator
Reign supreme would not fit anymore, the gap has definitely been closed with the many versions of H1 that have come out. Like Nate said, if you go with the MD2S, then you can use OEM bulbs, if you're not THAT much of a projector head, I'd say go with the H1.
Unless something has changed, their threaded shaft is a smaller diameter and requires a lot less reflector bowl trimming to make them fit compared to the MD2S.
Unless something has changed, their threaded shaft is a smaller diameter and requires a lot less reflector bowl trimming to make them fit compared to the MD2S.
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Due to the size of the D2S I don't think they can make that threaded shaft any smaller.
NateDG
Member
As a side thought, the md2s 3's are riveted together rather than screws making tuning a pita. In retrospect i should have drilled them out and replaced with screws before mounting them. The 4's use screws.
07TrailyLS
Member
I'm not scared of trimming anything and am pretty good with my dremel. So as Nate stated, the d2s series 4 will be out soon. I'm in no rush so as soon as they drop I'll buy a set and let everyone know and see how they project. As with all morimoto products, I imagine it'll will be over the top quality. I imagine I'll be able to use mostly all the parts from my 9006 hids given the d2s are bi xenon, I imagine all I'll have to buy extra is a splitter?Thanks for all the input thus far guys.
NateDG
Member
I'm having a problem getting the low beams to fire unless I'm cranking the engine. They don't react to the switch in standstill or while the engine is running. I have 8.9 volts on the trigger to the relay pack with the switch in the OFF position and 12-something when on. Do I have something crossed/pinched? It's always something....
Blckshdw
Moderator
This is your problem. When the headlights should be off, there should be no voltage on the trigger wire to the relay coils. Go back and trace your wiring, something is connecting it to a hot source.
NateDG
Member
This is also the voltage coming off the factory harness going into the housing with the green, yellow n ground wires.This is your problem. When the headlights should be off, there should be no voltage on the trigger wire to the relay coils. Go back and trace your wiring, something is connecting it to a hot source.
Switch? Funny timing if that's the case...
Blckshdw
Moderator
Start with your low beam relay... Does your high beam wire at the headlight show the same voltage, or just the low beam one?
I am also making the assumption that you addressed your DRLs already...
I am also making the assumption that you addressed your DRLs already...
NateDG
Member
Hi-beam has zero voltage without stalk engaged. I thought about the DRL full power mod I have done but it's never been an issue until now. Only thing that's different than a week ago is that I got a new relay pack/harness from TRS cuz I used to have to smack the old one to get it to kick.
Blckshdw
Moderator
The PWM signal of the DRL function is not healthy for non solid state relays, HID ballasts, and LED drivers. The reason you had to smack your old relays to get them to come on is because they were damaged by the DRL signal.
DRL killer or cap mod, you really should do one or the other sooner than later. Save yourself the unnecessary headaches man.
DRL killer or cap mod, you really should do one or the other sooner than later. Save yourself the unnecessary headaches man.
NateDG
Member
In reading my last post again, I see how it wasn't clear. What I as saying is that I DO have the cap mod. I have the whole time. What I meant was I thought maybe had something come loose there but I checked and it's all good.
Blckshdw
Moderator
Oh OK, I was about to say... "Where's my
hammer when I need it?" 
Well if you did the cap mod, your low beams should read 12V (14.4v) or zero. Something is wrong somewhere if it's showing some voltage in between.
I would think having 9V would be enough to trigger the relays all the time as necessary, and then the hot wire to the battery would power the ballasts. But if the relays aren't activating, I'd say take them out and test them manually to make sure they haven't been damaged. Shouldn't take much current, and I think most relays will kick on after seeing only 50-60% of what they are rated to run at.
But yeah, getting only 9V in DRL mode isn't right. Should be running at normal operating voltage.
Well if you did the cap mod, your low beams should read 12V (14.4v) or zero. Something is wrong somewhere if it's showing some voltage in between.
I would think having 9V would be enough to trigger the relays all the time as necessary, and then the hot wire to the battery would power the ballasts. But if the relays aren't activating, I'd say take them out and test them manually to make sure they haven't been damaged. Shouldn't take much current, and I think most relays will kick on after seeing only 50-60% of what they are rated to run at.
But yeah, getting only 9V in DRL mode isn't right. Should be running at normal operating voltage.