Members projector retrofits

[NateDG]

The low beam plug from the DS headlight activates the relay harness. The low beam plug in the PS headlight is not used, so leave it tucked inside the housing. The high beam plugs in each headlight go into a splitter, then the 2 ends get connected to the cutoff shields on each of the projectors.

My DS light has 2 harnesses coming out, presumably hi beam and low beam. The PS light has just one, I assume that's the hi beam since the low isn't used. I have (2)F to MM splitters with diodes and 2 without. Then I have (2)M to FF splitters. I'm so lost right now... I don't have anything connected but the power and ground.

 

[DAlastDON]

By the time you get it figured out, you will be able to do it in your sleep and in the dark if ya had to. Willing to bet the splitters with the diodes are for the low beams. To keep them on when the high beams are activated.

 

[Blckshdw]

@DAlastDON is correct, the diode splitters would normally be used to keep the low beams on when the high beams fire, but since you already did the 6-hi mod, that base is already covered. So toss the diode splitters in a box for safe keeping.

The pair on the upper left of the most recent pic will go inside the headlights, connecting the high beam plug with both of the high beam solenoids. Looking at the others, I'm a little unsure of why they sent you that bottom pair. If the ones with the diodes are oriented the same way as the non diode pair, those would be used at the ends of the relay harness, to feed the ballasts.

 

[NateDG]

@DAlastDON is correct, the diode splitters would normally be used to keep the low beams on when the high beams fire, but since you already did the 6-hi mod, that base is already covered. So toss the diode splitters in a box for safe keeping.

The pair on the upper left of the most recent pic will go inside the headlights, connecting the high beam plug with both of the high beam solenoids. Looking at the others, I'm a little unsure of why they sent you that bottom pair. If the ones with the diodes are oriented the same way as the non diode pair, those would be used at the ends of the relay harness, to feed the ballasts.

Everything inside the headlight is already wired together as far as the cutoff motors etc. This dude uninstalled the stuff from his truck and sent it to me. It's just a matter of putting on mine now correctly. He said all of the splitters have to be used. I'm wondering if the fact that I have that 6-hi mod installed already is causing me issues. I'm about to lose my shit over this. Been working on it since 11 this morning (it's 7:30p in Illinois). I've about had it.

 

[Blckshdw]

If you already have the high beams connected to the 9005 plug, then all you need are the pair of splitters from the top left of the pic. Those will go from the outputs of the relay harnesses to the ballasts. And you're done.

The 6-hi mod covers all the other stuff.

 

[NateDG]

If you already have the high beams connected to the 9005 plug, then all you need are the pair of splitters from the top left of the pic. Those will go from the outputs of the relay harnesses to the ballasts. And you're done.

The 6-hi mod covers all the other stuff.

Why then do I have 2 different harnesses coming from the DS light and only 1 coming from the PS? I'm sure I'm making this harder than it has to be but I'm so flustered and my hands are frozen and I've been messing with this for far too many hours now.

 

[Blckshdw]

The DS light has the low beam plug for the relay harnesses. Both of them have the high beam plug that needs to go into a splitter, that feeds both solenoids for the high beams.

You said the high beams are all connected, so what are they connected to if you have the high beam plugs hanging out? Pics would be useful at this point.

 

[NateDG]

The DS light has the low beam plug for the relay harnesses. Both of them have the high beam plug that needs to go into a splitter, that feeds both solenoids for the high beams.

You said the high beams are all connected, so what are they connected to if you have the high beam plugs hanging out? Pics would be useful at this point.

This is the PS, the harness sitting on top is what's coming out the back.

Here's the DS (sideways pic, sorry) and there's 2 harnesses coming out that one. One is the same as the one on the PS.

 

[Blckshdw]

OK, DS is like I said. You've got the low beam output, and what looks to be the high beam output. The PS confuses me, can you pop the rubber cap off and see where that plug is going?

If it's the low beam output on the PS side, you won't need it, if you're using splitters on the relay harness.

 

[NateDG]

If those harnesses that are alike on both sides are for the cutoff solenoids, do they need to be connected to a power splitter where the ballasts would hook up? I mean, what sends the power to them?

 

[Blckshdw]

The high beam solenoids do not need to be powered by a relay harness. The 9005 connector that would normally be plugged into a bulb, gets connected to a splitter. Then the 2 ends of the splitters go to each of the solenoid wires. They do not require much power.

As far as wires entering the headlight through the bulb openings... On the PS, you should have the AMP wires from the low beam bucket projector, and high beam bucket projector, each going to it's own ballast. On the DS, you should have the same wires, plus the low beam output plug, which is feeding the relay harness.

There should be no more wires coming from the high beam or low beam buckets. The high beam solenoid stuff will be contained within the headlight.

Edit: We have seen people posts pics of relay harnesses that had passenger side low beam inputs, which were a source of confusion. And in some cases, wired incorrectly, which caused blown fuses and other mayhem, but that's not your case thankfully.

 

[NateDG]

This is what is hanging out of both sides...


This was supposed to be a fun hobby but I've been stuck at home all day and I'm out of smokes and need to eat but I can't leave cuz I have no damn headlights. I'm pretty much infuriated at this point.

 

[Blckshdw]

Put your stock headlights back in... Then go where you need to go. Modding while angry leads to broken stuff, so table it for the night and come back to it tomorrow.

I need you to remove the rubber cap on the high beam bucket of the DS, and the low beam bucket of the PS, and tell me what they are connected to. Your only other option is to connect the headlights, without the relay harnesses, turn on the low beams, and high beams, and use a meter to see what sends power to the unknown connections.

 

[NateDG]

Put your stock headlights back in... Then go where you need to go. Modding while angry leads to broken stuff, so table it for the night and come back to it tomorrow.

I need you to remove the rubber cap on the high beam bucket of the DS, and the low beam bucket of the PS, and tell me what they are connected to. Your only other option is to connect the headlights, without the relay harnesses, turn on the low beams, and high beams, and use a meter to see what sends power to the unknown connections.

I tore my stock on the one side apart for the ball joints that were broke cuz there wasn't a donor vehicle within 70 miles of me.
Here's on the DS

And the PS... EDIT - the red and black wire on the low beam side just disappear down and under the reflector bowl. And sorry, my phone is being crazy.

 

[Blckshdw]

OK, so the DS, it looks like the high beam plug, has wires for the solenoids spliced into it, instead of using the plug. For the PS, if it goes down under the reflector bowl, and then to the lower section of the headlight, then it's either one of the stock wiring, I assume the low beam due to the side it's coming out.

Leave both of those 'extra' connections, disconnected, and hook everything up. Test all your functions, and see what works, and what doesn't, then proceed from there.

You got this man, just take it in steps, not one big leap, and you'll be good.

 

[NateDG]

OK, so the DS, it looks like the high beam plug, has wires for the solenoids spliced into it, instead of using the plug. For the PS, if it goes down under the reflector bowl, and then to the lower section of the headlight, then it's either one of the stock wiring, I assume the low beam due to the side it's coming out.

Leave both of those 'extra' connections, disconnected, and hook everything up. Test all your functions, and see what works, and what doesn't, then proceed from there.

You got this man, just take it in steps, not one big leap, and you'll be good.

The last thing I tried before throwing in the towel last night was taking the 2 harnesses on the DS, used the FF to M pigtail and running that to the relay trigger and left the one on PS unhooked. That worked for a couple minutes until I went to turn the truck around to face the fence I was gonna use for aiming. Then I started popping 2 different fuses in the box under the hood. #15 and 44 iirc. I ran outta replacements and went to bed.

Guess I'm getting warmer but now I'm outta fuses.

 

[Blckshdw]

You basically connected your high beam and low beam inputs together, and fired them up. Fuse #43 is the first for high beams, and fuse #5 is for the DS high beam.

If anything, you would have used a diode splitter there, with the diode on the high beam side to protect against what exactly happened, but you did the 6-hi mod, so it's not needed.

I really think you only need to use the DS low beam plug, feeding the relay harness and you'll be up and running.

 

[NateDG]

You basically connected your high beam and low beam inputs together, and fired them up. Fuse #43 is the first for high beams, and fuse #5 is for the DS high beam.

If anything, you would have used a diode splitter there, with the diode on the high beam side to protect against what exactly happened, but you did the 6-hi mod, so it's not needed.

I really think you only need to use the DS low beam plug, feeding the relay harness and you'll be up and running.

I was thinking about that this morning, and why I thought that would be a good idea, but I didn't see any other way that the hi beams and solenoids would get wired in. The pigtail with the diode is a FF to M so it wouldn't work there.

 

[Blckshdw]

Only think I can think of, to have the DS high beam that way, is that the previous owner had another circuit tied into the high beams, so he needed that output to activate a relay elsewhere.

You also learned the hard way (as did I) that when you are just starting out and learning electrical fun mods, to have LOTs of spare fuses on hand!

 

[NateDG]

Only think I can think of, to have the DS high beam that way, is that the previous owner had another circuit tied into the high beams, so he needed that output to activate a relay elsewhere.

You also learned the hard way (as did I) that when you are just starting out and learning electrical fun mods, to have LOTs of spare fuses on hand!

Yea, I'm going out to stockpile before starting back on this mess. The previous owner insists that I have everything that was installed. He said not one wire or relay or anything was left in his SS before he sold it. I'm thinking my primary source of contention is that I have a 6-hi mod and his stuff had to wired with these splitters/combiners to achieve what I did with a little diode.

EDIT: the fuses I kept popping were 6 and 53, LOW HDLP-LT & HDM, respectively.

One thing is for sure tho, this headache will certainly be worth it once it's all said and done. Look how sexy that bug-eyed booger is!

 

[NateDG]

Alright so fuses are replaced, nothing is popping now. I hooked it up so that only the harness on the DS which has a twin on the PS is connected to the relay trigger. That made the PS fire but not the DS. When I used only the harness that's unique to the DS, I got nothing. Color me confuzzled... Blckshdw, any other ideas? Hah. I hope you guys don't ban me from the forum for being too needy / helpless hah

 

[Blckshdw]

How many inputs to the relay harness are there? Should only have 1 but I've seen some that have 2.

Could be one of the relays has gone bad, try swapping them around.

Since I don't know how the guy asked NFC to design the setup, I'm really just guessing. Testing things on a bench would be ideal to see what triggers what.

 

[NateDG]

How many inputs to the relay harness are there? Should only have 1 but I've seen some that have 2.

Could be one of the relays has gone bad, try swapping them around.

Since I don't know how the guy asked NFC to design the setup, I'm really just guessing. Testing things on a bench would be ideal to see what triggers what.

There's just one input to the relay, but check this out :

So I hooked it up that way using both harnesses on the DS and left the one alone on the PS. I got all 4 to fire but the hi beam on the DS goes out after about 30 seconds. Right now I'm waiting for a jump start because I let them burn for about a minute without the engine running. Might be time for a new battery...
EDIT: the site I pulled that from says it's for GM vehicles, that schematic.

 

[NateDG]

 

[Blckshdw]

Glad you finally got it working. Productive retrofit weekend for the both of us

 

[NateDG]

Glad you finally got it working. Productive retrofit weekend for the both of us

Yea, there's light lol but now I have to figure out why the DS cutoff solenoids are stuck actuated. Could it be because of my 6-hi mod? That wouldn't make sense tho because the PS functions normally with the hi beam switch. I wonder if I should try it without the diode-laced pigtail. That's not what popped the fuses I don't think, I had the poles reversed on the low beam harness going to the relay.

 

[Blckshdw]

You don't need a splitter, that's causing your issue. Sounds like the diode is triggering the DS high beams.

 

[NateDG]

You don't need a splitter, that's causing your issue. Sounds like the diode is triggering the DS high beams.

I know I have a weak battery and all but should those things strobe like crazy when I'm cranking the ignition? That doesn't seem like it's doing the ballasts any favors. If that's a normal condition, I might just remove the cap mod and go full DRL kill. I'm gonna switch that splitter/combiner to one without a diode and I'll let ya know if that lets the shield drop.

 

[littleblazer]

I know I have a weak battery and all but should those things strobe like crazy when I'm cranking the ignition? That doesn't seem like it's doing the ballasts any favors. If that's a normal condition, I might just remove the cap mod and go full DRL kill. I'm gonna switch that splitter/combiner to one without a diode and I'll let ya know if that lets the shield drop.

I have my relay harness wired directly to the battery and they don't even dim while cranking... may be time for a new battery.

 

[NateDG]

I have my relay harness wired directly to the battery and they don't even dim while cranking... may be time for a new battery.

Yea, I left the lights running for probably less than a full minute earlier with the engine off and it killed it. Needed a jump start.

And removing the combiner with the diode did not drop those DS shields. This is just getting silly now hah.

 

[Blckshdw]

Even with a relatively new Walmart battery, my HIDs have always flickered on startup. Relay harnesses are also wired directly to the battery. I think a better brand would eliminate that, but hasn't been too annoying yet.

 

[NateDG]

Even with a relatively new Walmart battery, my HIDs have always flickered on startup. Relay harnesses are also wired directly to the battery. I think a better brand would eliminate that, but hasn't been too annoying yet.

Is it not hard on the ballasts to do that? I was just reading something about a relay that delays the lights coming on for a set amount of time to avoid that flicker. What kind of battery does littleblazer have?

Also just to update, I removed the splitter/combiner/whatever all together and only have one of those DS harnesses running into the relay trigger. Now the shields have dropped but will only actuate on the PS now haha. Better than driving with hi beams on into oncoming traffic, but still silly. I wonder if I should drop another splitter into the power output of the relay, where it splits for the 2 ballasts, and have a 3rd connection and run that other harness into it. This is so wierd...

 

[Blckshdw]

Is it not hard on the ballasts to do that? I was just reading something about a relay that delays the lights coming on for a set amount of time to avoid that flicker.

It's only doing it for a few seconds, so not that big of a deal. I did think about getting one of those time delay relays though, that was when I had one of the ballasts that wouldn't always stay fired up during cranking.

I wonder if I should drop another splitter into the power output of the relay, where it splits for the 2 ballasts, and have a 3rd connection and run that other harness into it.

Nate, you are officially obsessed with the splitters. I am going to organize a meet at your house, with concerned fellow retrofitted members, and we are going to have an intervention for you.

You'll save your self headaches and frustration if you stop guessing at fixes, and start thinking through problems. In your case, you need to trace through the DS headlight to see where the high beam signal is going when you flip the stalk on the steering column.

As far as I can tell, whenever you have that HB plug connected to a power source, the high beams are always on, and when it's disconnected, they are always off. Is this correct? If so, that means it's NOT receiving the high beam signal through the OEM plug at the bottom of the headlight, like the PS side is getting. This is what you need to be troubleshooting.

 

[NateDG]

It's only doing it for a few seconds, so not that big of a deal. I did think about getting one of those time delay relays though, that was when I had one of the ballasts that wouldn't always stay fired up during cranking.



Nate, you are officially obsessed with the splitters. I am going to organize a meet at your house, with concerned fellow retrofitted members, and we are going to have an intervention for you.

You'll save your self headaches and frustration if you stop guessing at fixes, and start thinking through problems. In your case, you need to trace through the DS headlight to see where the high beam signal is going when you flip the stalk on the steering column.

As far as I can tell, whenever you have that HB plug connected to a power source, the high beams are always on, and when it's disconnected, they are always off. Is this correct? If so, that means it's NOT receiving the high beam signal through the OEM plug at the bottom of the headlight, like the PS side is getting. This is what you need to be troubleshooting.

Yea, that's pretty much it. I'll take some time after work tomorrow to pin out the OEM socket vs. the 2 harnesses coming out. In the meantime, how about some feedback on the cutoff? I need something more than "it sucks" haha. I know it does. I'm also parked on terrain sloping towards the PS so take that into consideration. Hopefully the cutoff solenoids is a quick fix so I can spend some good time aligning this business.

 

[dmanns67]

The cutoffs do need some work, but it does appear the cutoffs are at least level. They are just not lining up with each other. With one projector in each headlight, you could use the vertical adjustment knob to raise and lower the cutoff to line them up.

Since you have two projectors in each headlight, it will be harder to line up the cutoff on both projectors in each headlight. If you the projectors mounted in the reflector bowl were not mounted with the cutoff lined up, when you use the vertical adjustment knob to raise/lower the cutoff, they will move together and never line up.

Both projectors on the driver's side look ok, but it looks like one projector cutoff is too high and one is projector is too low on the passenger side. I would assume that you would have to reposition the projector in the reflector bowl in order to line up the cutoffs on each projector in the passenger side headlight. Using the vertical adjustment would just move the cutoffs up/down without closing the gap on the cutoffs.


As far as your splitters, are you just using the basic splitter or do you have any of the correctional splitters hooked up? The correctional splitter will have a diode wired into one of the wires. The high beam correctional splitter is supposed to do the same thing as the diode mod except that the correctional splitters never worked for me. I think TRS found that they were wiring the diodes in backwards, so when I had the correctional splitter hooked up, there would always be power going to the cutoff shield solenoid causing my driver's side projector to always be in high beam mode.

You posted a pic of the high beam correctional splitter in your post #543. The one with the arrow going to the splitter stating "mesh covering diode". It would be like a black mesh covering the diode that was soldered into the wire. If this correctional splitter is in your setup, remove it and in it place, use a basic splitter, one without the black mesh and the diode. That should take care of your cutoff solenoid always having power.

 

[NateDG]

If this correctional splitter is in your setup, remove it and in it place, use a basic splitter, one without the black mesh and the diode. That should take care of your cutoff solenoid always having power.

I did have one in place when the cutoff was constantly down. When I tried the splitter without the diode, nothing changed. When I just left that particular harness disconnected, like it is now, I just have no activation of the shields on the DS whatsoever. PS shields react perfectly tho.

 

[dmanns67]

I did have one in place when the cutoff was constantly down. When I tried the splitter without the diode, nothing changed. When I just left that particular harness disconnected, like it is now, I just have no activation of the shields on the DS whatsoever. PS shields react perfectly tho.

Oh ok. Sorry if read over that comment. You already know the solenoids work in both projectors on the driver's side, so you can rule that out. Do you have a 12v test light or multi-meter that you can test the plug on the splitter that connects to the solenoid plug of the projector to see if you are getting voltage to the plug when the high beams are on? No power, swap the plug 180* Also, you could do a continuity test on the wires of the splitter to make sure there are no breaks in the wire. High beam fuse for the driver's side ok?

If you do not have a test light or meter, maybe swap the splitters to the passenger side to see if the issue follows the splitters?

 

[Matt]

I was just reading something about a relay that delays the lights coming on for a set amount of time to avoid that flicker.

Put your park brake on before you start the truck, that will stop the lights from trying to turn on. When you release the park brake, the lights will turn on.

I have no idea why muricans don't like using the park brake.

 

[Blckshdw]

Put your park brake on before you start the truck, that will stop the lights from trying to turn on. When you release the park brake, the lights will turn on.

I just went out and tried this, my auto lights still came on.

 

[Matt]

I just went out and tried this, my auto lights still came on.

OK. Mine don't. They only activate when I release the park brake. But I always use it when I park, so it's on when I get in the truck.

Directly from the 2002 owners manual:

Automatic Headlamp System When it is dark enough outside, your automatic headlamp system will turn on your headlamps at the normal brightness along with other lamps such as the taillamps, sidemarker, parking lamps and the instrument panel lights. The radio lights will also be on. Your vehicle is equipped with a light sensor on the top of the instrument panel. Be sure it is not covered or the system will be on whenever the ignition is on. The system may also turn on your lights when driving through a parking garage, heavy overcast weather or a tunnel. This is normal. 2-45 There is a delay in the transition between the daytime and nighttime operation of the Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) and the automatic headlamp systems so that driving under bridges or bright overhead street lights does not affect the system. The DRL and automatic headlamp system will only be affected when the light sensor sees a change in lighting lasting longer than the delay. To idle your vehicle with the automatic headlamp system off, set the parking brake while the ignition is off. Then start your vehicle. The automatic headlamp system will stay off until you release the parking brake, or until you shift out of park.[QUOTE/]