Wheel Bearings or something else causing 45mph hum

[swaffdn]

About a month ago I noticed a slight hum/wine/grind when going down the road. It's pretty hard to notice. My wife didnt notice (still doesnt) and it's her daily driver. My dad couldnt hear anything when I asked him to listen. It's there, just slight right now.

It starts around 45mph and then gets harder to notice when you get above 50mph. It does it whether your in 3,4 or N, but as long as you're hanging around 45mph it's there. Start turning towards the right (at 45mph) and it goes away, straighten back out and it's there again. I need to test turning to the left.

Changed both motor mounts with GM parts about 5 months ago (smooth idle now), and changed exhaust manifold last month (had the crack problem). Both jobs done by this noob with the help of the threads on this forum.

I've rotated the tires, same exact thing. I've jacked up the front to check for any wobble in the wheels. Solid. So would you say wheel bearing just starting to fail or something else? Thanks, this forum has been a life (& money) saver. TB is at 99K, so I'll be doing 100k maintence here soon.

-D

 

[kickass audio]

I had both front wheel bearings start making noise on my truck but it wasn't at any specific speed. It would only make some noise that would get louder when I was in turns and would also get louder the faster I went. It was pretty unnoticable at a straight line but when i took right turns it would make it louder. I mis-diagnosed it as being the left front wheel bearing so I replaced that and it was still there so I then got one for the front passenger side and the noise went away.

Something for food for thought. If you can do it safely, put the transmission in neutral when you are at the speed it makes the noise. Does it go away or stay? If it goes away you may have an issue with the transmission or drive train related component. Does the sound change at all when going in and out of turns?

I see you have a 2wd setup so that will rule out a CV shaft bearing issue but those usually get louder with speed when they go.

Have you ever serviced the rear diff yet?

 

[Vayne]

I had a hum or it almost sounded like tire noise a couple days ago, but my tires weren't that old. I'm at 104,000 miles. I recently replaced the pads and rotors on the front. It sounded like the noise was coming from the front when going straight and making a left turn. After replacing the wheel bearing it is so quiet and no more noise(wheel bearing was easier for me than doing a brake job the first go around) just for maint, I had the tires rotated afterward and brake flush, my guess would be the bearing didn't move as freely as a new bearing would causing the the hum.

 

[Texan]

Welcome to the Nation. My brother who lives in Katy, Texas has an 04 TB and has changed one front wheel bearing.
Do not buy a CCC (cheap Chinese crap) bearing. Some folks say that if you grab the coil spring and rotate the wheel
you can feel the vibrations of a bad bearing. I would drive it until it gets louder, and the replace it. I have not had this
problem yet, at 134K miles.

 

[silverunicorn]

I think I have this problem too. For those that had it also, did you have vibration in the steering column also?

Thanks!
Chris

 

[smt 59]

The front right bearing is likely the problem, this is a common issue on these trucks, if you hear the humming then replace sooner than later.

 

[swaffdn]

If you can do it safely, put the transmission in neutral when you are at the speed it makes the noise. Does it go away or stay? If it goes away you may have an issue with the transmission or drive train related component. Does the sound change at all when going in and out of turns?

Have you ever serviced the rear diff yet?

Yeah, the hum is consistant at 45-50 mph whether 3, 4 or even in Neutral. So I'm hoping that rules out the tran. Only thing that changes, is it goes away when turning Right. But it stays when going straight or turning left. Havent service the rear diff yet, but plan on it here real soon.

I had a hum or it almost sounded like tire noise a couple days ago, but my tires weren't that old. I'm at 104,000 miles. I recently replaced the pads and rotors on the front. It sounded like the noise was coming from the front when going straight and making a left turn. After replacing the wheel bearing it is so quiet and no more noise.

This kinda sounds like mine. Noice when straight and turning left, but it goes away when turning right. Which wheel bearing did you change out - driver, passenger or both?

Welcome to the Nation. My brother who lives in Katy, Texas has an 04 TB and has changed one front wheel bearing.
Do not buy a CCC (cheap Chinese crap) bearing. Some folks say that if you grab the coil spring and rotate the wheel
you can feel the vibrations of a bad bearing. I would drive it until it gets louder, and the replace it. I have not had this
problem yet, at 134K miles.

Thanks for the coil spring tip. I'll have to try that out.

 

[silverunicorn]

So I think my issue definately is the hub. Looking at replacements now on RockAuto - Are both sides the same part number?

I was looking at the SKF assembly since my wife works at SKF and can get a discount.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1840594&cc=1432188

Just wanted to make sure they are the same part # for both right and left sides.

Thanks!

 

[The_Roadie]

Identical from side to side. CV shafts are also the same.

 

[silverunicorn]

Thanks Bill!

That is what I found from my looking around, but wanted to be sure

Looks like I can get the SKF units for about $65 each, so that should do the trick!

Chris

 

[kickass audio]

Yes the part numbers are the exact same on each side. If I can recommend something it would be to replace both at the same time however if you are really tight on money you can get just one and swap it between each side to see if the noise goes away. For example if you put the new one on the drivers front and its still making noise, try it on the passenger front. If it still is there then you may need to replace both of them together and if it is still there then maybe the carrier bearing is bad but that is a rare occurrence. Usually it is the wheel bearing that goes bad.

Btw, I would suggest getting a torque wrench for the nuts so you can torque the CV shaft nut and the 3 hub assembly bolts to spec.

 

[silverunicorn]

Btw, I would suggest getting a torque wrench for the nuts so you can torque the CV shaft nut and the 3 hub assembly bolts to spec.

Good idea Is there somewhere to find these specs?


Thanks!
Chris

 

[kickass audio]

Mooseman has the full repair guides on our platform with the torque specs. I don't remember them off hand but if another member doesn't beat me to it, tonight when I get out of work I can give them to you.

Also my little suggestion is to use a little bit of anti-seize on the cv shaft to let it slide into the bearing a little easier and I used some on the threads of the bolts too.

 

[kickass audio]

Okay so for the torque specs, it is 77ft lbs (105nm) for the 3 nuts that retain the hub assembly to the truck from the rear, the center nut (drive axle nut) for the CV shaft is 103ft lbs (140nm).

I will admit to only have torquing the center nut for the cv shaft to spec. The ones that hold on the entire hub assembly I just put on with my thru-socket set and a little cheater bar for some extra leverage.

 

[swaffdn]

If turning to the right(passenger) at 45mph makes it go away, does this point more to the driver or passenger side bearing being bad?

 

[The_Roadie]

Usually, but not always, the one with LESS stress in a turn makes less noise if it's the bad one. That means the inside of the turn. But some percentage of bearings fail differently, and that's why you might as well change both while you're in there and have all your tools out.

 

[silverunicorn]

I got my new SKF hubs yesterday. WOOHOO!!!!

Will try to get them in early next week.

Chris

 

[Harpo]

Svenska kullager fabriken
Swedish ball-bearing factory

Nice to see that you choose a Swedish quality product,that's probably is made in Mexico :-( ;-)

 

[silverunicorn]

Svenska kullager fabriken
Swedish ball-bearing factory

Nice to see that you choose a Swedish quality product,that's probably is made in Mexico :-( ;-)

Wow. +1 for knowing what SKF meant Bravo!

I will have to see where they are made. My wife works for SKF, so I got 2 hub assemblies for $140 (total) shipped to my door, which is that the much lesser Chinese stuff would have cost me anyway

I will report back with the county of manufacture tonight!

Chris

 

[Harpo]

Hey I'm Swedish ,it would be like a American didn't know what GM stands for ;-)

 

[silverunicorn]

Hey I'm from Sweden,it would be like a American didn't know what GM stands for ;-)

Oh geez, I didn't even see that, LOL. All I know is that their items are quality, and they have many plants in the USA as well. It is a great company to work for, and they have been quite good to my wife.

Chris

 

[silverunicorn]

Yep, made in Mexico, LOL. Oh well.

getting them installed tomorrow. Woohoo!

Chris

 

[Harpo]

Haha that was a wild calculated guess. Is it made or assembled in Mexico?.
The funny thing is that I would save money if I got a pair of hubs from US including the horrible shipping cost that iirc i s higher than the price for the hubs themselves and I have to pay VAT but I would still save about a third of the price compared to buy it in Sweden, that sucks big-time.

 

[Harpo]

Oem at the dealer $925, non oem could be whatever $525, SKF from Rockauto $388 incl $90 shipping + Swedish tax $96 =$484

 

[silverunicorn]

is that per hub? Or for a pair?



Chris

 

[Harpo]

The two first are per hub,Rockautos price is for a pair.

Shit, it was just now when I read your question I remembered these prices was for only one hub.

Carparts are insanely expensive here compared to what you pay over there, that goes for gasoline prices as well. :-(


Janne

 

[nagyiii]

take there advice, change both! ive been thru 3 driver side and 2 passenger, the last time I changed them together. stay away from the cheapo ebay crap. I replaced just the driver side at 70k, bought a cheapy ebay bearing, and had to replace it at 80k. replaced that with a better quality one, which also failed in a less than 6 months but was warrantied, so replaced both and have been good for the last 35k.