Just replaced a passenger side wheel bearing and put everything back together, and the tire won't spin. Any ideas?
wheel bearing on a silverado
- Thread starter scirilo
- Start date
scirilo said:
That might last 15k miles or so, 20k if your lucky....
You just ran the inner and outter races together and now it is going to wear like mad...Its usually somewhere around 100lb ft or so, 103 on a TB so its about the same on a Silver...
McGMT said:That might last 15k miles or so, 20k if your lucky....
Its usually somewhere around 100lb ft or so, 103 on a TB so its about the same on a Silver...
So what should I do?
scirilo said:
Return that one and get another one. If your lucky the parts guy wont realize you destroyed it...
scirilo said:
Yea, return it defective and hope that the guy behind the counter doesn't realize that you destroyed it or your gonna have to buy another one...
McGMT said:
ok just found out that there is a heavy half ton, which this truck isn't the heavy, and so that bearing is the wrong one. Thanks for your help and input.
jimmyjam
Member
- Nov 18, 2011
- 1,634
McGMT said:That might last 15k miles or so, 20k if your lucky....
Its usually somewhere around 100lb ft or so, 103 on a TB so its about the same on a Silver...
woah... are we talking about sealed bolt on hubs like the trailblazer
or the spindle style
if its a sealed unit, then just torque the shit out of it
but if it is the spindle style, then you only torque to 12ftlbs, loosen it and then hand tighten. DO NOT torque to 100ftlbs
jimmyjam said:woah... are we talking about sealed bolt on hubs like the trailblazer
or the spindle style
if its a sealed unit, then just torque the shit out of it
Don't ever ever "torque the shit" out of a sealed unit... ever... You pinch the inner and outer races together against the bearing and ruin them, that's why some people wonder why every single one they put on is garbage after 20k miles... And yes, its true if it is a spindle not to torque it down... Just ffs don't tell someone to torque the shit outta a sealed unit because that is false information and a worst case scenario.
jimmyjam said:
First, who cares, anyone who is a real mechanic knows theres a reason they come up with torque specs, its not just cuz someone gets bored and starts making up numbers.
Second, not every bearing you buy is going to have a one piece inner race, some are a split race with two ends.
Either way, there are torque specs for just about everything on a vehicle and they are there for a reason, people come here for help and information to get and keep these vehicles on the road the cheapest way and the most reliable, The head is one piece your clamping onto the block, no way your going to crush the head, are you going to torque the shit outta that?
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,919
I'll admit I primarily use the German torque spec gootentite for most things. I didn't have a torque wrench for years. I have done brakes, suspension, and entire rear axle swaps without any torque wrench 
I think for some things like brake caliper brackets the torque spec is like the minimum torque to keep it on there. Other things, yeah, you don't dare go over the spec as you'll smash things, or warp stuff.
I think for some things like brake caliper brackets the torque spec is like the minimum torque to keep it on there. Other things, yeah, you don't dare go over the spec as you'll smash things, or warp stuff.