i have been looking under my TB and wow that thing is very rusty. so far the only thing where i can see that has rusted through on the frame is in the very back where there's a small crossmember above where the spare tire goes and on one side it's rusted through a bit. I am thinking about lightly wire brushing the frame and cross members and buying like several cans of that "rust reformer" spray paint that neutralizes the rust. then spray black spray paint over that and then possibly spray rubberized undercoating over that. Does anyone think that might last for a while if i do that? I already wire brushed, and used the rust reformer and spray paint over the rust that was forming at the bottoms of each door. I live in Iowa so our winters are hard on vehicles with all the salt brine they use on the roads. I'd like my TB to last as long as possible for me.
very rusty underneath
- Thread starter niceguypmp3
- Start date
If the under framing has had enough exposure to Brown, Salty Snow Slush and Ice to the point of seeing a "Swiss-Cheese" array of holes in the frames... using a "Rust Prevention Treatment" is a bit like a Cowboy Putting a 'Fifty Dollar Saddle... On a Two Dollar Horse'.
The only way to treat large areas of Rusty, Mild Steel is to use something like the "POR-15 Rust-Proofing System" or something similar. This Video will give you an overview of all the Work and Prep that will be necessary for it to become effective and at least stop the cascade of further large scale rusting.
Working in small areas at a time is the best approach to take rather than exposing or uncovering large areas of Bare Metal at a time and NOT being able to get the full job completed.
Make sure to use an OSHA Approved Ventilator Mask... if you inhale this stuff ...it will harden inside your lungs like Epoxy! Also, if you get and use the Rust Chipper Pneumatic Hammer-Needle Tools... WEAR GOOD EYE AND EAR PROTECTION (OSHA APPROVED) WITHOUT FAIL!!!
if you get POR-15 on your Skin and it HARDENS, it will have to WEAR OFF. So Wear Disposable Clothing and Shoes and stay covered FROM HEAD TO TOE. Lay down a Disposable Tarp of Large Sections of Cardboard under your Vehicle Parking Space or Garage and Driveway as it will NEVER COME OFF of those surfaces!!!
Two Year Follow Up on the First Video:
Just In Case this Question get posed:
To Remove All Doubt about whether these Recommendations are being made WITHOUT my having any "Personal, Hands-On Experience" with using the POR-15 System Products... Please Check Out my own POR-15 Thread at these Links:
Skip all the "Wordy Parts"... and....
gmtnation.com
...Look at the Pictures (towards the bottom of this collection of 600 Images):
HERE... For the Finished Work...
app.photobucket.com
...and HERE...For the Complete Cleaning, Prepping and Painting:
app.photobucket.com
The only way to treat large areas of Rusty, Mild Steel is to use something like the "POR-15 Rust-Proofing System" or something similar. This Video will give you an overview of all the Work and Prep that will be necessary for it to become effective and at least stop the cascade of further large scale rusting.
Working in small areas at a time is the best approach to take rather than exposing or uncovering large areas of Bare Metal at a time and NOT being able to get the full job completed.
Make sure to use an OSHA Approved Ventilator Mask... if you inhale this stuff ...it will harden inside your lungs like Epoxy! Also, if you get and use the Rust Chipper Pneumatic Hammer-Needle Tools... WEAR GOOD EYE AND EAR PROTECTION (OSHA APPROVED) WITHOUT FAIL!!!
if you get POR-15 on your Skin and it HARDENS, it will have to WEAR OFF. So Wear Disposable Clothing and Shoes and stay covered FROM HEAD TO TOE. Lay down a Disposable Tarp of Large Sections of Cardboard under your Vehicle Parking Space or Garage and Driveway as it will NEVER COME OFF of those surfaces!!!
Two Year Follow Up on the First Video:
Just In Case this Question get posed:
To Remove All Doubt about whether these Recommendations are being made WITHOUT my having any "Personal, Hands-On Experience" with using the POR-15 System Products... Please Check Out my own POR-15 Thread at these Links:
Skip all the "Wordy Parts"... and....
How to Put on Bullet-Proof Suspension Paint
UPDATE - 09-12-2017: Because of the problem of lost links to the separate placement of Digital Images throughout all these posts, I consolidated ALL 300 PICTURES of this work chronologically at my Photobucket: https://app.photobucket.com/u/60dgrzbelow0/a/ce6fdd80-b709-45be-ad5d-df7bea923d6e...
gmtnation.com
...Look at the Pictures (towards the bottom of this collection of 600 Images):
HERE... For the Finished Work...
Photo Storage
Store your photos and videos online with secure storage from Photobucket. Available on iOS, Android and desktop. Securely backup your memories and sign up today!
...and HERE...For the Complete Cleaning, Prepping and Painting:
Photo Storage
Store your photos and videos online with secure storage from Photobucket. Available on iOS, Android and desktop. Securely backup your memories and sign up today!
Last edited:
Mooseman
Moderator
I had the exact same rust in the Saab. I think at that point, it's a losing battle. I'd just get it oil sprayed to try and extend its life.
I used Woolwax, thicker than fluidfilm and doesn't smell nearly as bad. Took about three cans to coat the rust prone spots.
Mooseman
Moderator
i am now 3/4 done with scraping the loose rust and then spraying with Rust Reformer and then black spray paint over that. man is this thing rusty! i see why the fuel fill tube seems to be a common failure problem. mine had flaky rust on the entire tube. hopefully now it will last longer after scraping the flakes of rust off and spraying it. I also found a few holes in the frame. one ended up being about 1 " diameter jagged looking hole on the outer drivers side frame rail below rear of the fender. also, on both sides up front on the bottom of the frame rail above the front cv shafts the bottom of the frame rails had about a 2 or 3" by 4 or 5 " jagged hole. i dont know if it's supposed to be solid there or if from the factory there was already a hole there. after i finish the frame then i still have to change all of the fluids and filters. i have already sprayed the drain and fill plugs for the rear ends and transfer case with penetrating oil so hopefully that will help them come out.
C-ya
Member
- Aug 24, 2012
- 1,098
For more rusting fun, watch your gas tank straps. My rear one failed with about a quarter of a tank of gas while driving down the road. I almost filled up about 10 minutes before it broke. The fuel filler hose held it up, and I luckily had a ratchet strap with me to secure it until I got a new set of straps. Twenty-five gallons of gas weighs a lot - it probably would have been laying in the road behind me even though the front strap was fine.
the straps had a little rust on them but they didn't actually look too bad compared to the rest of the undercarriage.