To eliminate a whole raft of Electrical Issues and to help identify if you have a Problematic Fuel Pump, try these Simple Diagnostic Procedures:
(1) Use a Lighted Pin Probe to Check ALL of the Fuses in the Under Hood Fuse Box AND at the Fuse Box under the Left Rear Passenger Seat at the Fuse Box - BCM Unit. Make a Note of any that happen to be Burned Out and advise us back HERE.
(2) Pull the Fuel Pump RELAY #41
(NOT THE FUEL PUMP FUSE) and Start
(or Try to Start) the Engine and allow the residual Fuel Pressure in the Lines to subside.
(3) Obtain a Can of GUMOUT Spray Starting Fluid:
(4) Undo the S/S Clamp holding the Air Plenum onto the Throttle Body just enough to have an opening to the Butterfly Plate.
(5) Have an Assistant turn the Ignition Key to the Start-Run Position and as the Engine Turns over... Spray a SMALL AMOUNT of the Starter Fluid into the narrow opening...
DO NOT OVERDO THIS ACTION.
Keep an ABC Fire Extinguisher on hand and Do NOT perform this action inside of a Closed Up Garage.
(7) If the Engine Starts and Runs Briefly...
THIS will eliminate the possibility of having problems with
Engine Compression - The PCM - The Ignition System Coils & Plugs - The Engine Wiring Harnessing being Damaged by Rodents - or - The Ignition Switch.
(6) If this IS what occurs... as
@Mooseman previously suggested... Focus on a Problem with Low Fuel Pressure ...or having a FAILED FUEL PUMP.
(7) If this is NOT what occurs during this effort, the Next Test is to confirm Ignition Spark from the Coil Over Plugs and a Relative Compression Test along with performing In Cylinder Dry - Wet Compression Testing. If ANY Coil Over Plug is DEAD SHORTED...It alone can prevent the Engine from Starting.
How to Use A Test Probe on Fuses:
At your earliest convenience... Let us know what happens... And Remember...
You Only Need THREE Things to make an Engine RUN:
(1) AIR
(2) FUEL
(3) SPARK
(with Compression)