transmission line leaking (pics)

[pgibbzz]

so after my 2 posts, one about replacing\cutting my resonator, and the other about flushing trans fluid...I took my car to the muffler shop to get a new resonator, they said they couldnt work on it because of a bad gas leak. i looked underneath and didnt find any gas leaks, coming from the tank all the way up through the lines. BUT i did find the red fluid leaking from the transmission line, (maybe they thought it was gas). Anyways the leak must of started after i installed a new water pump and moved the trans lines to remove the fan clutch. Here are some pics where the leak is. I wanted to take a utility knife and cut away the wrap around the lines but i thought i would jump on here and ask you first. Now ive read about the skinny arms being able to do this, and i do have in fact skinny arms, i couldnt mess around up there though cause the cat was still hot from the drive home.

 

[meerschm]

I think you need new lines.

(mine did not have any wrap on them.)

http://gmtnation.com/f79/transmission-cooler-line-r-r-5083/

bright side is that once you get the lines off and new ones in, the flush should be easier. you also should be able to save at least one end to use with a hose to flush if you like.

 

[pgibbzz]

I think you need new lines.

(mine did not have any wrap on them.)

http://gmtnation.com/f79/transmission-cooler-line-r-r-5083/

bright side is that once you get the lines off and new ones in, the flush should be easier. you also should be able to save at least one end to use with a hose to flush if you like.

after seeing the trans pan, and fluid, i may just do a pan drop. The pan has some dark oil around the rear so it looks to have been dropped before, im gunna go and cut the wrap off and take a look see. How hard would it be to drop the trans a bit? what i dont want to end up doing is taking ALOT of stuff apart, and make a week long project out of this, id rather just spend the $300 or so if thats the case. i have a nice tool collection with air tools and such. but ive done so much work to this car in the past month im starting to get discouraged.

 

[meerschm]

not too bad.

( I was lucky and had a lift, but you can do it.)

had to remove most mounting on the crossmember that the trans rear mount bolts to.

one of the through bolts will not come out, due to gas vapor stuff in front. that is ok.

you can drop far enough to get to the lines. it took a bit of persuasion for them to come off, once you figure out the clip stuff.

the trans came down a bit. and I used a jack with a chunk of wood to lift the trans back up to bolt back the cross member.

 

[meerschm]

View attachment 30335

you can see two sizes bolts on the bracket.
each side (right and left) has four bolts from the bottom and two through front to back bolts with nuts.

the service manual says to disconnect and drop the exhaust pipe too, but i did not have to do that.

it is a little tight, so even with the trans dropped a bit skinny arms and hands will come in handy.

 

[pgibbzz]

View attachment 17129

you can see two sizes bolts on the bracket.
each side (right and left) has four bolts from the bottom and two through front to back bolts with nuts.

the service manual says to disconnect and drop the exhaust pipe too, but i did not have to do that.

it is a little tight, so even with the trans dropped a bit skinny arms and hands will come in handy.

just climbed back underneath to cut the aluminum wrap off, the lines look fine....except where its bent. i wiped it clean with a towel and it slowly leaks from the bend, didnt turn the car on but im assuming its worse with it on. of course its the line that comes from the top of the trans, i could reach my hand up there and feel where it connects but couldnt imagine doing much more then feeling around. Now you say to take off that crossmember (not sure if thats what its called), does that drop the trans? im ok with dropping the exhaust as i see just 3 bolts that could easily be reached with an extention and swivel socket. also, where to buy new lines? dealer? online? i can use my motorcycle for transportation if need be while i wait for shipping

 

[pgibbzz]

is it possible to just cut the elbow off and replace with a rubber hose?

 

[meerschm]

the back of the trans sits on a mount on that cross member.

one of the through bolts will not come out unless you move some other stuff, but will be loose enough to drop the trans an inch or two.

I did not touch the exhaust, you can check and see if you can make it without it.

no sense opening the exhaust and possibly breaking something else if you don't have to.

I ordered from Rock Auto. I used the AC Delco. I think the four parts came to around $70 or so.

you might want to shop there for a price and check a local place. a few phone calls should do the trick.

 

[pgibbzz]

i cut a section of the line after reading a few threads on this subject. im going to try and find the same size line and put compression fittings on, if thats not an option i will buy some rubber transmission cooler line from nappa as a temporary fix. i used a hacksaw for the bottom part of the line, and (i might get roasted for this) a dremel for the top part, there was just no room for a tube cutter, which i have and tried.

 

[meerschm]

your call. all depends on where the line is rusted, and how bad.

rubber hose should be ok for a while. i do not think the fluid is under very high pressure, but it does get warm. just make sure you use hose rated for the transmission fluid. see if you can get the right hose clamps too. like the ones for fuel lines. you can get some vacuum hose the same size which would work for a day or so...but not for long term. if the rust is limited in scope, there is no reason the rubber hose would not last for quite a while, if you can keep it away from the exhaust ( the cat will get pretty warm)

I am pretty sure (ok, wild guess on my part) that the fluid in the lines heads back to the sump, before the filter, so any filings from the saw should end up in the pan, not stuck in a valve or bearing.

 

[v7guy]

I have a buddy that installed a transmission cooler on those lines and clamped transmission hose on the lines. The hose blew off 4 times while driving down the road over a few months. He eventually installed threaded adapters and has been fine since. When those lines blow you loose almost all the transmission fluid, if you don't notice you will destroy the transmission within a few miles.

I wouldn't use rubber lines and clamps personally.

 

[meerschm]

if you do use rubber lines, go for the high pressure fuel injection fuel line clamps, and use two of them at each joint.

the best way would be to replace the lines.

 

[pgibbzz]

i ended up using compression fittings and 3/8 brake line. Doesnt leak a drop, the only problems i had was no working room, and i kinked the brake line a little bit, would that be and issue? Looks like the other line might be going in the same spot soon as well, but at that point ill just switch out both lines. Compression fittings and brake line were $11.00 total.

Update: its still leaking a tad bit, looks like one of the fittings isnt tight enough, like i said i had no room under there, not even with a small wrench, looks like im going back underneath.

 

[meerschm]

the kink will reduce flow a bit, but you should be ok for a while if you can get the leak under control.

looks better than some rubber hose.

 

[gmcman]

i ended up using compression fittings and 3/8 brake line. Doesnt leak a drop, the only problems i had was no working room, and i kinked the brake line a little bit, would that be and issue? Looks like the other line might be going in the same spot soon as well, but at that point ill just switch out both lines. Compression fittings and brake line were $11.00 total.

Update: its still leaking a tad bit, looks like one of the fittings isnt tight enough, like i said i had no room under there, not even with a small wrench, looks like im going back underneath.

Yikes, a trans fluid leak right above the cat...I would definitely replace the line sooner than later.

 

[NJTB]

i ended up using compression fittings and 3/8 brake line. Doesnt leak a drop, the only problems i had was no working room, and i kinked the brake line a little bit, would that be and issue? Looks like the other line might be going in the same spot soon as well, but at that point ill just switch out both lines. Compression fittings and brake line were $11.00 total.

Update: its still leaking a tad bit, looks like one of the fittings isnt tight enough, like i said i had no room under there, not even with a small wrench, looks like im going back underneath.

I did the same thing several years ago, used 3/8 brake line and flare fittings. I used flare because they can be tightened, as opposed to compression. So far it's been problem free.
Mine leaked where they clip onto the engine near the exhaust.

 

[pgibbzz]

just an update, i had to take off the compression fittings because the area was just too limited to tighten them enough, no matter how much i thought that i tightened them, it would still leak. I went to napa and bought the 3/8 rubber cooler line and 4 fuel line clamps as ive seen alot of people do on this forum and on TV. seems ok for now with no leaks. i have even heard some people say theyre going 3 years strong with the ruuber hose. I also lost about a gallon of fluid so i guess the flush i was gunna do can be put on hold.

 

[meerschm]

You might want to wrap a couple layers of tin foil as a reflective heat shield. and I hope you tied it to the other line or something else to keep the rubber hose from touching the cat.

 

[pgibbzz]

You might want to wrap a couple layers of tin foil as a reflective heat shield. and I hope you tied it to the other line or something else to keep the rubber hose from touching the cat.

i might just use the stuff that i cut out that was originally on there, and its about an inch away from the cat but im going to throw another clamp on there tomorrow. ive done alot of work to my envoy but these lines are just something that i might not want to do. i might just have to swallow my pride and take it to a shop with a lift. but i think have a little room to breath before i end up replacing them.....hopefully.

 

[gruvedaddy]

My 02 TB is leaking in the exact same locations, at the 90's. I'm probably going to tackle this issue tomorrow. I have some high end compression fittings and 3/8 tubing. I'll update how it goes. Thanks again for all the invaluable info here!

 

[moneypit]

Those lines take alot of patience to do, I ended up bitin' the bullet & got new lines at the dealer which can be pricey here and that was almost 5 yrs now but when the p/s line sh*t the bed, I patched with compression fittings...and thats been a few now too!

 

[smokey262]

In my experience brass compression fittings don't bite into steel tubing as well as is required to make a bulletproof seal. They work best on copper or nylon tubing.

For thin wall steel tubing I prefer steel compression fittings like these

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-single-sleeve-compression-tube-fittings/=uyxgl1