trans shift 3-4

dla442

Original poster
Member
Mar 31, 2012
249
grand rapids, mi
Need advice on my trans. Last year did the transgo tcc pwm uograde and the shift kit mods. Right now when on the highway, the tb shifts 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 just fine. When at 70 thru 80 mph the rpm is 3k and wont shift down. I hit the brake and the tc clutch disengages and rpms go up about 300 then go back down. I let off gas and rpm go to 1500k. I feather the gas and they jump right back to 3k in what seems to be a transmission slip. I manually downshift from D to 3 gear and 100 rpm difference. Video attached. When transgo done i put in new shift solenoids while i was there. Power valve and servo done too. Fluids fine. Not an issue when not on highway.

Thanks
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
Not sure about your Trans issue but you can't directly upload a video to the site if that's what you're trying to do, you have to host it somewhere like YouTube.
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
Link doesn't seem to be working (but I'm on tapatalk, known to have issues) if you see it here on the site, good, if not, click the share button on YouTube and it'll give you a short link then copy that here and it'll appear as a YouTube window that you just click play on and watch here.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Do you have torque by chance on your phone? I think it can tell you what shift point is commanded. I'm curious whether it is just telling it to stay in 3rd for some reason, or whether it is commanding 4th at any point but just not getting there.

What rear axle do you have? Glovebox, GU6 (3.42), GT4 (3.73), or GT5 (4.10).

When did this start happening? What RPM did it used to sit at?
 

dla442

Original poster
Member
Mar 31, 2012
249
grand rapids, mi
Don't have a torque. The rpm's used to be way lower..wife's car so she has no clue but I'm thinking 2300-2500 rpm would be reasonable. Just started happening. GU6 is rear axle. No cel lights or the "wrench" light. Fact that it's kinda in neutral when gas let off and slips back into 3k rpm concerns me.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
OK same rear axle as mine (and probably 80% of these trucks).

It just sounds to me like it is staying in 3rd, then doing TCC lockup in 3rd. The only time I've ever had my TCC lock in 3rd gear is when I put mine in 3rd. Otherwise it just goes to 4th. Hm, just for kicks check the shift linkage where it attaches to the trans. Maybe it has gotten sloppy (I know some people have had that happen to them) and perhaps it is actually going into 3rd instead of drive. That would be a pretty simple fix.

Gas let off feeling like neutral is pretty standard. It should coast pretty easily when you're off the gas.

If I remember I'll put my truck in 3rd on my way home and take it up to speed as a comparison on behavior. Too bad you weren't closer or I'd plug Torque into your truck and just see what's going on there.
 

dla442

Original poster
Member
Mar 31, 2012
249
grand rapids, mi
Yea..it's definitly a slip when on xway at 3k. No gas pedal then just feathering it you can tell it's not in gear then hits 3rd. If I used heavy gas pedal it would slam, so didn't do it. I'll look at linkage and drive it in 3rd..try to get more. I would thin a code would be thrown soon with an issue like this.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
You'd think, but on my previous car the TCC wouldn't stay locked up and I went over a year with it doing that. Never once threw the SES light even after it started slamming gear shifts, and only once did I catch it as a pending code but never fully set it. Go figure.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
No issue with any other gear? Seems like the torque converter may be the culprit except the slight drop in 3rd would be the TC locking in as normal.
 

dla442

Original poster
Member
Mar 31, 2012
249
grand rapids, mi
i drove a lot today trying different things. at low easy increased speeds there seems to be a 4th gear but the brake tap tc going out of lockup is the same as manual downshift to 3. higher speeds no difference from D to manual shift to 3. The tc still unlocks when brake tap and re engages. Linkage seems fine. rpms still too high for 50mph and up. I fear an expensive bill if a bad TC or something worse going on? Keep in mind I did do the tcc pwm fix with the transgo mods on accumulators, power valve, servo mod and drilled separator plate. all shifts very nice except 3rd to 4th(D).
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Drat I forgot to check mine on my way home yesterday. Sorry. I'll try to remember today.
 

dfc739

Member
Jul 29, 2012
170
Des Moines, IA
It doesn't look like your torque converter is even locking. Here is why I think that. See how when you let off the accelerator the RPMs dropped to ~1500? It shouldn't do that because the TCC should be locked (without the brake applied). When the TCC is locked the speed of the vehicle dictates the RPMs. And when you tap on the brake, I don't think the RPMs should flare up like that but I'll check. The best way to check if the TCC is actually locking is to cruise along at 70 mph, note the RPMs, feather the brake but still keep at 70 mph. If the RPMs increased then the TCC unlocked. I'll try to take a video today of mine on the highway.

Also, the RPMs shouldn't just shoot up like that when you start to apply (feather like you said) the accelerator unless you are pushing pretty hard (causing the TCC to unlock). The TCC should be locked and should start to apply more power but it will slowly increase the speed of the vehicle and thus, the RPMs.

What exactly did you change and what brands did you use? Did you install a corvette servo? Did you replace the separator plate? Which PWM eliminator did you use? How sure are you that it isn't stuck in the bore? Did you replace the TCC lockup solenoid? I'll be back with video...
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlazingTrails

dfc739

Member
Jul 29, 2012
170
Des Moines, IA
Here's my video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHf9ZJmFnbk

I also meant to mention I have standard size tires (245/65/17) and gauges were calibrated according to readout from Torque. Let me know if you have any questions.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Just to be sure, did you check the trans fluid when hot, engine idling, level ground?

Can you get under the passengers side and not only listen for the positive detent into 4th from the shifter, but is there any fluid seepage from behind this cover?
 

Attachments

  • 1414178017670-975321497.jpg
    1414178017670-975321497.jpg
    55.4 KB · Views: 12

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Ok, now I'm at a PC it's a little easier. I doubt you have any solenoid issues, especially without a code but it's not completely out of the question.

What I think may be happening is your seal on the 4th apply piston is damaged....easy to verify.

What I would do is rather simple with hand tools, get the passenger side up on jack stands and take a prybar and force that cover in, should only move 1/8 to 1/4". If it only moves a little bit, I would suspect you have a bad seal on the 4th apply piston. If you can move it in a half inch or more then you possibly have other major issues but you won't know until you pull that cover...I doubt it though.

To access that cover, you need to lower the cross member a little but it's easy, no need to remove any linkages or drive shaft, just a few bolts.

Both horizontal bolts on passenger side and the four vertical bolts come out. On drivers side, inner horizontal bolt comes out, loosen outer bolt. You can remove all 4 of the vertical bolts on the drivers side, I like to leave the outer 2 about halfway out and let the cross member pivot down.

Place a jack under the center just in case but you will need to pry it down slightly.

Don't do any of the rest until you have a new outer cover seal.

I would pick up a 4th apply piston seal as well or just get all of them. Best thing to do is purchase a vette servo and replace it while you're in there....most people do this.

Once exposed, take a small brush and clean around snap ring.

Remove snap ring with screwdriver, just pops off.

Use an angled pick and pull on seal, pull it snug and rotate cap until it pops off. Worst case you have to cut the seal but generally you can stretch it. This is recommended just in case the new seal doesn't work and you need to drive it later.
 

Attachments

  • 20141024_153632as.jpg
    20141024_153632as.jpg
    140 KB · Views: 11
  • 20141024_153641as.jpg
    20141024_153641as.jpg
    185.3 KB · Views: 11
  • 20141024_153707as.jpg
    20141024_153707as.jpg
    129 KB · Views: 11

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Here's a good video explaining what's inside the cover.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WpjGQnEixo
 

dla442

Original poster
Member
Mar 31, 2012
249
grand rapids, mi
I did the whole thing...new corv servo, new accumulators new solenoid a new valves and the tcc pwm valve. New plate, drilled etc. new shift solenoids, power valve etc...I used the whole kit. I don't think the Tc was locking based on your video. When I let off gas it fell to idle range and feathered gas and it shot up. Fluids all fine. I suspected a bad Tc or an electrical issue. Either way, I had to give up the trailblazer. I had a bad driver seat that would get stuck and a radiator going bad too. Only worth 6k ish so was time for a new ride. Would have been sinking at least 2k into this and my time is becoming very limited for vehicle repairs on the fly. I will miss the old girl. Wife's primary ride so now she picked a minivan for the kids etc. our days of being cool are gone! Rip 05 tb.
 

Forum Statistics

Threads
23,353
Posts
638,277
Members
18,561
Latest member
Fishermandude

Members Online