Top 10 parasitic draws (?)

[Dr.Fiero]

On my ol' '05 TB (I-6), I've got a draw. Somewhere.

I did the usual tests, and found the stereo was ignoring the off/shut down command (was something like a 2-2.5A drain!!).
Pulled the fuse for that. Problem partially cured.

There is still something though, and it's causing a draw around 10-12 hours after key off! Still need to do more comprehensive testing, but someone ends up needing to drive it before such a long test can be done.

What are some 'other' things that people have found?

 

[TJBaker57]

File this under related/unrelated?? My 05 Yukon has a failing drivers door switch. Works sometimes and other does not. When it fails I only notice it if the radio is on as it stays on when the door opens. The radio is the most instantly noted component to stay on. It stays on because due to the faulty switch the DDM never tells the BCM that the door opened so the BCM never sends the proper "power moding" message that would cause the radio to go dormant.

Having said that, in my case after ten minutes the BCM should issue a power moding message to shut down the RAP feature anyway and I would expect that to shut down all significant power draws as well.

There is still something though, and it's causing a draw around 10-12 hours after key off!

So this draw is continous for like 10 or 12 hours after key off? Is this monitored with the hood open or similar so the drain can be seen without ever opening a door later on? I have never had to track down such an issue.

 

[Dr.Fiero]

The draw doesn't start until 10-12hrs later! I have a battery monitor device hooked up that logs voltage (and SOC and temp) continuously... looked at the log the other day, and saw the voltage stayed steady until roughly 10hrs later then ... thunk ... it started dropping like a load had all of a sudden been turned on. BIZZARE!

Oh well - when I get a chance I'll pull it inside and hook up a bunch of meters to it. Then close the doors etc and just watch it.

edit: forgot - I did have an issue with the drivers door switch not working (mechanically gummed up) but that's been taken care of.

 

[TJBaker57]

steady until roughly 10hrs later then ... thunk ... it started dropping like a load had all of a sudden been turned on. BIZZARE!

Agreed, that is bizarre.

I had wondered if you may have meant that about the 10-12 hour timeframe.

Only thing that comes to mind are changes in temperature and ambient light levels. The light level surely should not make any difference. Temperatures sometimes do affect the integrity of degraded connections but I would not expect such to start a load.


Gives me the idea to add a sd card module to my J1850 Arduino project in order to record long term datalogs without the use of a phone.

 

[budwich]

what is the actual draw before then? Your initial posts state a current "draw" from the radio.... but you failed to "restate" your "normal sleep" draw. After that you state a "voltage drop" (thunk) but that doesn't really indicate draw.

 

[flyboy2610]

I was going to say that the #1 parasitic draw is Congress, but decided not to.

 

[Dr.Fiero]

The radio load was roughly an extra 2 amps, then the sleep mode (sans radio) was about 200ma.
And I haven't gone beyond that for testing.

 

[budwich]

the sleep one sounds good..... then you need to look at your "tunk" draw.... it might give some ideas depending on degree.

 

[Camdo]

It would be logical to expect a small drain from the onboard computers to maintain a sleep mode, otherwise the computers would have to boot up when the ignition key is turned on. There is a setting in the user parameters for the time to shut off accessory power , which includes the radio. If that setting is zero then there is probably a factory set maximum at which the accessory power would be absolutely shut off to avoid a dead battery. Your response in post 3 is illogical and needs clarification.

 

[Mooseman]

Locked at the request of the OP.