They smashed my driver's door lock and ignition

[6716]

I should make a YouTube channel called "Good thing I had a spare" where I chronicle the unintentional destruction of the parts I am trying to work on.

On the loose steering column, the messed up one, I was pulling the steering wheel to switch back over to the donor column. Of course the column isn't attached to anything, so it is hard to get torque on the 21mm nut, so I had a helper hold the wheel, with the column pointed down at the floor. I had an electric wrench on it, so when it broke loose I just kept it going, and then when the nut cleared the top of the threads, the column did exactly what the manual says not to do, which is to drop straight down on the floor, which wrecks the column by shoving it up and breaking some inner plastic bits.

But I do have the old wheel and airbag loose, as well as the multi-function switch, so I should be able to get those installed hopefully tomorrow.

 

[6716]

Got "my" steering wheel and multi-function switch swapped onto the donor column. The old switch self-cancels, thanks for the tip @Mooseman. There is a little play in the column that I don't think the old one had. Not sure what to do about that.

I suppose I'm on to the door handle next. The driver's door speaker has been blown out for a while, so I got a new speaker since I am going to be in there anyway. Might get to that next weekend.

 

[Mooseman]

There is a little play in the column that I don't think the old one had. Not sure what to do about that.

Depends on the type of play. I think there are bearings for the shaft. If it's the tilt, maybe the previous owner liked to keep moving the tilt up all the time getting in and out of the truck and may be worn. They're usually not easy on it when doing this.

 

[6716]

Well that's a wrap on this one for now.

Got the door handle swapped AND replaced the door speaker. The door handle was literally a pain, I had to try it four different times/ways to finally get it, and pinched a finger pretty good when I finally got it in. I couldn't get the latch rod on when the handle was installed first, and putting the latch rod on and then trying to get the handle into place is tough between the latch rod and the bolts and the lock cylinder, but that's what finally worked for me.

They pried the heck out of the sheet metal around the door handle after they banged in the door lock cylinder, they must have been trying to get something on the lock rod, there was a pretty big gap around the handle. I had some ultra black RTV, I filled in with that. It looks kinda awful but it might keep the water out of the door for a minute. The truck wasn't necessarily a thing of beauty to start with, and this damage and repair doesn't do it any favors.

The steering wheel play is most noticeable at highway speed. With the wheels pointed straight ahead there are a couple of degrees of play/turn in there where it is a little loose. I can turn it left and right a bit before it "hits" the resistance of the wheels going fast forward. If that makes any sense.

Oh well. I told myself I would make this vehicle work until I get my kid through college, and (fingers crossed) he should finish up in May. But I am kind of attached to the old thing at this point, and I seem to keep learning more about how it comes apart and goes back together.

 

[Mooseman]

Mine has that looseness. Three different racks didn't change it so I figure it's a worn shaft U-joint. It was always there, I just never did anything about it. Maybe it crept up on you and you never noticed?

 

[TGstring]

would a jimmi-jammer have stopped this thief? it's supposed to secure the lock from being punched in... curious if this would have helped...

 

[6716]

Mine has that looseness. Three different racks didn't change it so I figure it's a worn shaft U-joint. It was always there, I just never did anything about it. Maybe it crept up on you and you never noticed?

Maybe it did creep up on me.

See how I am though? I want to blame the new-to-me part. Gotta blame something!

 

[6716]

would a jimmi-jammer have stopped this thief? it's supposed to secure the lock from being punched in... curious if this would have helped...

That product is new to me. I think in theory it might have kept them from successfully attacking the door lock cylinder and lock rod BUT I looked at the mfr website and they don't seem to have these for GMT360s.

I feel like that's the sort of product you buy after that has happened to you once.

 

[Mike534x]

When my friend lived near....a not so friendly neighbor in Chicago. he had his car broken into, after that he wired in a red LED (mounted on the dash), to battery and I think relay. Basically a "dummy" security light to look like the car had an alarm system on it. It worked surprisingly.

 

[Sparky]

Blinky red light means danger

 

[Sprung Monkey]

Forgive me if I missed it, but has anyone suggested pushing the gear shift release button under the console to get the truck into neutral?

this would be easier than pulling off the shift linkage good infor

 

[Sprung Monkey]

When my friend lived near....a not so friendly neighbor in Chicago. he had his car broken into, after that he wired in a red LED (mounted on the dash), to battery and I think relay. Basically a "dummy" security light to look like the car had an alarm system on it. It worked surprisingly.

my 99 trans am has this red blinking light when locked it's a real vibration alarm I'm been planning to make a fake burgluar alaram.

I’m kindof in the same boat, my new 07 hummer h2s driver door handle w/ door lock cylinder was missing.

It’s been suggested to only replace the outside (weak cheaply made) door handle w/ new which I plan to do alone w/ a el cheapo door lock cylinder from ebay $10. shipped.rockauto sels one lock for $99. then have 2 keys 1 ignition 1 door don't care about glove box.



I have to disagree w/ the person that said you can’t unlock the door w/ a flat battery.

I’ve unlocked the 07saab97x many times w/ a dead battery though door lock w/ key. Hope the H2 is the same.



OP concider a new door lock an a push button ignition, like when the GM ignition is removed your steering is unlocked correct.

I think these push button ignitions use 2 wires inside the column so the GM anti theift sys checking the resistance of the key is unchanged.
I maybe totally wronge on being able to do this push button.

on my car all I did was mearsure the resistance in the keys pellet an simply bypass the GM faulty VATS sys. not sure if you vehicle has this VATS sys.

Then cover the removed ignition w/ a anti theft collar that wrapes around the column.attached.I plan to add this to the other stuff.



Sure it takes a extra minute to exit an lock up same w/ unlocking but it will keep the scum away an save you a window.



I’m planning to add more burgalur deterants like.

Inexpensive vibration alarm this.it beeps on scums first touch of car, 2nd touch of scum

It stays on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XTN4NPF/?tag=gmtnation-20



I already have the windshield/windows/hatch glass/T-tops ehtched vin#

Brake lock attached to brake an warning sticker on driverside of windshield.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1256175791...=0&customid=link&campid=&toolid=20001&mkevt=1