The 5 Transmission p codes
- Thread starter drivewayguy
- Start date
Tiggerr
Member
I believe they are all physically/mechanically the same trans. Maybe different electronics/sensors. The 05 or 06 and up the trans had its own controller, in our trucks. The PCM became ECM and there was a separate TCM.
It's the CTPowertain code buster kits. Quite possible that those kits are limited to some years. Some parts may be for some years while the TransGo shift kit itself works up to 2009.Sparky said:
Sparky
Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2011
- Posts
- 12,927
Ah, right. As far as the shift kit part goes that is the same. Separator plates changed a bit. I asked them if they had anything for the 07 and they said yes they do have the 07-08 separator plates, just was not bundled in a kit. Told me go ahead and order the 06 kit but ask for the 07 separator plate in the notes. I have that now on my bench for install at some point.
drivewayguy
Member
- Joined
- May 9, 2015
- Posts
- 23
So mechanic swore up and down my transmission was no good, it was slipping and had lt had lots of metal shaving in the pan. Well got a good used tranny. He installed it. I still have limp mode and those damn 5 transmission codes. He thinks it may be my PCM now. I am 1400 $ into this repair and no farther ahead then when I started. IS there a way to know if this could be a PCM issue. Or any other ideas out there. 2 months now without my blazer even after three mechanics and a transmission. So frustrating, but I am sure I can count out anything internal on the transmission. Is there a link on replacing the external harness anywhereÉ
If the tranny did have all that metal in the pan, it was probably a goner anyway.
Just to confirm, did you check the voltages and grounds at the connector? Look at the schematics and trace each wire to the termination points, whether it is a ground, power or at the PCM. If all checks out, then suspect the PCM. Although they are not known for failing, it does happen. If you have a pick-a-part nearby, that would your cheapest option. Just replace it and do a security relearn. Those from 2003 to 2005 would work.
Hell, I have a spare one from a 2003 I can't use because mine is a 2002 I could sell cheap.
Just to confirm, did you check the voltages and grounds at the connector? Look at the schematics and trace each wire to the termination points, whether it is a ground, power or at the PCM. If all checks out, then suspect the PCM. Although they are not known for failing, it does happen. If you have a pick-a-part nearby, that would your cheapest option. Just replace it and do a security relearn. Those from 2003 to 2005 would work.
Hell, I have a spare one from a 2003 I can't use because mine is a 2002 I could sell cheap.
drivewayguy
Member
- Joined
- May 9, 2015
- Posts
- 23
Hi Mooseman,
I did check the pink power wire at the connector on the end of the harness itself and power was good. I tried to check ohms with a DMM. But not sure if I did that correctly or not. I did not get ohm readings anywhere using the guide earlier in these posts. I tried key on and off.
What schematics would I be looking for to trace wires?
As usual any and all help will be appreciated.
P.S. I have a spare PCM unfortunately it is also from a 2002.
Thanks Mooseman.
I did check the pink power wire at the connector on the end of the harness itself and power was good. I tried to check ohms with a DMM. But not sure if I did that correctly or not. I did not get ohm readings anywhere using the guide earlier in these posts. I tried key on and off.
What schematics would I be looking for to trace wires?
As usual any and all help will be appreciated.
P.S. I have a spare PCM unfortunately it is also from a 2002.
Thanks Mooseman.
There are schematics for the tranny wiring in the manuals. Just check that there is no open from the tranny connector to the other end. Except for the pink power wire, all the others go to the PCM. The tranny wiring schematic is on page 85 of the 2004 wiring schematics.
drivewayguy
Member
- Joined
- May 9, 2015
- Posts
- 23
Ok I found another proven good PCM for cheap, it is also from a 2004. The numbers on the top with the letter to the far right side are the same just the letter are different and the bottom numbers are not all the same. I do not think that matters.
For the relearn. I am thinking it is this one I am trying site.
Turn key on for 11 minutes, make sure security light is off, then turn ignition off for 30 seconds. do it 3 times then key on 30 seconds start car.
I also read I need the VIN put on the PCM for it to work and also a case relearn. Then have read you do not ?
Someone here has to be able to help me with these questions.
Thanks
For the relearn. I am thinking it is this one I am trying site.
Turn key on for 11 minutes, make sure security light is off, then turn ignition off for 30 seconds. do it 3 times then key on 30 seconds start car.
I also read I need the VIN put on the PCM for it to work and also a case relearn. Then have read you do not ?
Someone here has to be able to help me with these questions.
Thanks
Close. It's turn key to start, leave it in the Run position for 10+ minutes until security light goes off, turn key to off, repeat 2 more times. Fourth time it should start.
Just a warming, you will likely get a CEL and code for crankshaft angle error because it will need a CASE relearn. You can run it like this for as long as you need to, no damage or ill effects.
This process does learn the VIN to the PCM. Nothing else is required.
Just a warming, you will likely get a CEL and code for crankshaft angle error because it will need a CASE relearn. You can run it like this for as long as you need to, no damage or ill effects.
This process does learn the VIN to the PCM. Nothing else is required.
drivewayguy
Member
- Joined
- May 9, 2015
- Posts
- 23
Thanks again Mooseman, relearn complete no problem. Did not fix the tranny though. Only $25 out on that one. Guess it is back to the harness.
Thanks again
Thanks again
I have same model Trailblazer, going through same song and dance. Seen same video,dude is awesome,been scratching holes in my head trying to figure out and stumbled on video. Any guidance would be beyond appreciated.
Bro,your a godsend. Was totally in the dark before seeing your video. Replaced solenoids,etc...thank you!!! At least got a starting point on the right path.
If you check our FAQs, this has been covered ad nauseam:
Transmission with multiple codes
Another Transmission with Multiple codes
More Multiple Codes
Short answer, if you get multiple tranny codes at the same time, 99.99% of the time it's a power, connector or wiring issue.
Transmission with multiple codes
Another Transmission with Multiple codes
More Multiple Codes
Short answer, if you get multiple tranny codes at the same time, 99.99% of the time it's a power, connector or wiring issue.
Artslayer
Member
For anyone getting these codes, verify power is getting to ignition switch. I tilted the steering wheel while working which loosened the ignition connection. You may also notice low power in 1st gear like transmission is slipping and eventually a no crank no start condition. Then the power windows would not work but other accessories would. After ignition connection under the steering column was reseated and codes cleared vehicle worked as expected.
Having the same issues with these codes, but my car key will also not come out of ignition cylinder so have a feeling it might be related to that. How did you reseat the ignition connection? Unplug and plug back in? I imagine you had to take off the steering column cover? Thanks in advance.
Artslayer
Member
My key was stuck as well. This guy shows the easy way to change the ignition switch so it shows the connector.
To reseat, pull the connector out and put it back in and make sure it's connected, snapped and secured into the switch. If that's not the problem then maybe your ignition switch is junk. I replaced mine for like $15.
Dorman 924-715 Ignition Switch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJ1JC08/?tag=gmtnation-20
It freaked me out but's not a hard project. Hope this helps.
Fyi, the owner before me stripped out the negative battery terminal. Had to replace the battery at the same time. If positive and negative terminals are removed which resets system, you'll likely need to do a HVAC reset. That is, my vents air was blowing different and ac didn't work.
Jerry, America's AllCar™ app, is the easiest way to compare car insurance policies, refinance car loans, estimate repair costs, and more. 4.7/5 rating.
Jerry AllCar™ App: Get Car Insurance, Loan Refinance, Repair Estimates, Driving Score and more.
getjerry.com
Last edited:
Much appreciated, will definitely give it a try. HVAC info will also come in handy as the AC (or HVAC?) actuator that is in the back of the truck (right rear panel) has begun clicking loudly intermittently.My guess is that it's also related.My key was stuck as well. This guy shows the easy way to change the ignition switch so it shows the connector.
To reseat, pull the connector out and put it back in and make sure it's connected, snapped and secured into the switch. If that's not the problem then maybe your ignition switch is junk. I replaced mine for like $15.
Dorman 924-715 Ignition Switch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJ1JC08/?tag=gmtnation-20
It freaked me out but's not a hard project. Hope this helps.
Fyi, the owner before me stripped out the negative battery terminal. Had to replace the battery at the same time. If positive and negative terminals are removed which resets system, you'll likely need to do a HVAC reset. That is, my vents air was blowing different and ac didn't work.
Jerry, America's AllCar™ app, is the easiest way to compare car insurance policies, refinance car loans, estimate repair costs, and more. 4.7/5 rating.
Jerry AllCar™ App: Get Car Insurance, Loan Refinance, Repair Estimates, Driving Score and more.
Last edited:
Artslayer
Member
It's a small world. Just so happens, my house mate has an '04 TB with the rear passenger actuator that clicks. There are 2 actuators back there. You likely need to replace one but people may replace both "while your in there". Here's the actuator. If you replace both, then buy 2. We're just buying 1 of them, lol.
ACDelco GM Original Equipment 15-72811 Temperature Mode Valve Actuator Assembly , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016IDE12/?tag=gmtnation-20
This one looks good.
Last edited:
TnTrailblazer
Member
Thank you for all your great info, I am now down to checking power to the pink wire. What exactly is pic #2 showing? Thanks in advance. This limp mode bs is like playing wack a mole (with apologies to the mole)!
You mean the pics in post #2? That's a diagram of the under hood wiring harness. It was to show where the connector for the tranny is (#10).
but PPPpp