Temperature gauge not working

SpeedUp

Original poster
Member
Apr 15, 2017
115
McKinney, TX
2008 LS, 4.2 4x4

First cold day here in DFW, and when I was driving home from work I noticed my temperature gauge had not moved.

I put my scanner on it, and I have code P0128, the scanner says ECT is 172 degrees.

I did some searching, does the alternator need to come out to get to this? is it easier from the bottom?

can this be left this way for a short period of time but still drive truck without causing issues?

thanks!
 

SpeedUp

Original poster
Member
Apr 15, 2017
115
McKinney, TX
Temp outside around 39 degrees.

Looks like this is the part # I need ? 1511006
 

Eric04

Member
Dec 3, 2014
392
West Michigan
Sounds like your thermostat has failed and is stuck open. You should be running 195ish when all is right. As far as I can remember the worst thing that will happen short term is your MPG will drop.

Some people replace it through the driver's side wheel well, as you can see it fairly well through there, but I went at it from the top. Yes, the alternator has to go, bottom bolt can be a PITA. I didn't remove anything else and was able to maneuver the alternator out but you have to rotate a little.

According to Rock Auto, whose catalogue I love but shipping practices I don't, the number you found is the correct one for your year. There are a number of threads here where you may find more tips. Google, thermostat: gmtnation. One such:
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/coolant-thermostat-temp-questions.9133/
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,349
Ottawa, ON
If you switch the coolant sensor, for '08, it was moved to the right side of the head near the back. Apparently it's a b!@tch. But I concur that I think you just need to replace the T-stat.
 
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SpeedUp

Original poster
Member
Apr 15, 2017
115
McKinney, TX
ty both for the replies :smile: this morning it was reading a temperature, but cooler than i usually see. Temps outside are in low 30s with wind chill in the 20s.

Do thermostats gradually fail? I guess I thought when a thermostat broke, that was it.

I see what you mean on the location of the coolant sensor! That looks really hard to replace... I hope my problem is just the thermostat.

Is it normal that the CEL never came on?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,349
Ottawa, ON
Yes, unless it's really low. They seem to fail a lot in the open or partially open position, which is better than stuck closed.
 
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SpeedUp

Original poster
Member
Apr 15, 2017
115
McKinney, TX
My new parts have arrived. I went ahead and bought the sensor also, I hope I don't need it, but have it if I do.

After reading more on the procedure, I am going to attempt replacing it from the wheel well.

Couple last bits of advice please, is it better to:

* drain the coolant first from the bottom of the radiator (pulling hose)
* pull the hose off the thermostat (still bolted to engine) and drain coolant
* leave all as-is and go right for the thermostat bolts
* new thermostat came with just an o-ring, is there a gasket i need?
* how/should coolant be primed in system before starting
* do you recommend leaving the hose connected to the thermostat and try and fish it up through the engine compartment so easier to swap?

Sorry for all the questions, I just try to be prepared as possible. I love this old truck lol

any/all advice greatly appreciated
 

Matt

Member
Dec 2, 2011
4,025
Here's a quote from another thread:

From the Engine Cooling manual:

IMPORTANT: Draining the cooling system with the pressure cap installed will siphon the coolant from the overflow tank.
(I think this is important to know, it could tell you if the hose between the radiator and the overflow tank is clogged or not or if there is a pressure issue. This will allow you to clean it, also.)

Draining Procedure
1. Park vehicle on a level surface.
2. Allow engine to cool.
3. Remove the radiator cap.
4. Raise and support the vehicle.
5. Place a drain pan under the lower radiator hose connection at the bottom of the radiator.
6. Using J 38185 slide the hose clamp back on the hose. (J 38185 is a stupidly-overpriced tool, just find something that can loosen the clamp)
7. Slowly remove the lower radiator hose and drain the coolant into the drain pan.
8. Inspect the engine coolant for the following conditions:
--Discolored appearance - Follow the flush procedure
--Normal appearance - Follow the filling procedure
--If a complete block drain is required, remove the plug located on the LH side of the block. (This is telling us there's a plug, but in the flush procedure there's no mention of such a plug, just the thermostat)

Flushing Procedure:
1. Drain the cooling system (already did that up there ^^)
2. Remove the coolant recovery reservoir.
3. Clean and flush the coolant recovery reservoir with clean, drinkable water. (Could use some distilled water if you're paranoid)
4. Install the coolant recovery reservoir.
5. Remove the thermostat. (Note that if the thermostat is a permanent part of the housing, you'll have to reinstall it for running the fill and run procedures. If it can come out of the housing [the metal tube], I believe it is suggesting that, so water is circulated from the get-go)
6. Follow the drain and fill procedure using only clean, drinkable water.
7. Run the engine for 20 minutes.
8. Stop the engine.
9. Drain the cooling system after allowing to cool.
10. Repeat as necessary until the fluid is nearly colorless.
11. Install the thermostat.
12. Fill the cooling system.


Filling Procedure
1. If a complete block drain was required, install the plug.
2. Install the lower radiator hose.
3. Using J 38185 slide the clamp to the original position (use what you used before again, don't bother getting this overpriced tool)
4. Lower the vehicle.

IMPORTANT: Slowly add a mixture of 50/50 DEXCOOL antifreeze and deionized water to the cooling system through the top of the radiator until full. Refer to Capacities - Approximate Fluid in General Information. (According to owner's manual, SWB w/ I6 is 10.8 quarts and LWB is 13.8 quarts.)

5. Remove coolant recovery reservoir cap.
6. Fill the coolant reservoir with the remaining coolant.
7. Install the coolant reservoir cap.
8. Install the radiator cap.
9. Start the engine.
10. Run the engine at 2000-2500 RPM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
11. Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes.
12. Shut the engine off.
13. Allow engine to cool.
14. Top off the coolant recovery reservoir as necessary.
15. Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and engine compartment.
16. Inspect the cooling system for leaks.
17. Inspect the coolant concentration using J 26568 (another overpriced tool, just get a coolant tester).
 

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