Steering wheel theft deterrent lock burning hot

[Elizabetty]

Hello. I'm back to that burning hot smell in the car again. I've changed my ignition switch months ago and I now changed it again recently. I noticed my steering column was warm around the ignition. When opening the column, I burned my thumb on the anti-theft lock.... At least that's what I believe this is from images I found online. Prior to this happening, my cluster went dark on the gauges and I could only see my mileage and park neutral etc. I also lost the lights to my radio and heater/ac fronts. Running lights, or whatever the automatic headlights are were also off. I also had no tail lights. I turned the engine off for a couple of minutes and when I attempted to turn it back on everything was back to normal. I can't drive more than an hour without it heating up.

I'm not really sure what is causing it other than high resistance which doesn't surprise me since I have made minimal progress in my electrical situation. I'm currently driving across the country and am stopping every 45-90 mins when I feel it getting warm because I can't afford to be driving in the dark and have my lights go out in case I can't flip the switch and get them on. If this is only for an anti-theft purpose, is there any way to work around this so I can finish my trip? I'm fairly certain it's going to be wiring that is the problem and not the part so I'm hesitant to have it replaced with an existing issue that's only going to heat the next one.

I'm not 100% sure how the anti-theft immobilizer ignition switch pieces work together. is it possible it's my key and the chip? I have a second one....

 

[TJBaker57]

That is not an anti theft device. That solenoid is to prevent the key from turning off unless the shifter is in Park. It is powered whenever the key is not in the OFF position.

Many part descriptions incorrectly say it is a steering lock or similar but it is not.

Without power on the device you cannot turn the key to OFF and thus you cannot remove the key either. There is a manual override button for that lock in case of a failure so that the ignition can then be turned to OFF.

The manual override is the silver cylinder sticking out of the upper right part of the picture you posted.

 

[TJBaker57]

possible it's my key and the chip

There is NO chip in Trailblazer keys

 

[TJBaker57]

Prior to this happening, my cluster went dark on the gauges a

The lights for the cluster are grounded at G201. Maybe a coincidence but that is the very same ground as the ignition lock solenoid.

 

[Elizabetty]

The lights for the cluster are grounded at G201

Edited. Different ground than original comment. Was thinking of 102. Will quadruple check 201..... Again.

 

[Mooseman]

Kind of strange that you have to stop to let it cool down as it is powered on only when in PARK so stopping like you are is making it worse.

Do you have your column plastic cover removed? If so, I would disconnect that solenoid and just use the manual button to remove the key when required. That should confirm that is the failing part and you can use this method until you get it changed. It is possible that it's shorted internally and still functional. You could also pull the fuse for it and see if the heat goes away, however I don't know if that fuse powers any other function.

 

[mrrsm]

Double Check that the Fuses regulating the ENTIRE Ignition and Starter Circuit are of the Correct Amperage. Follow THESE Diagrams to make certain nothing is out of order:

 

[TJBaker57]

it is powered on only when in PARK

Good catch there, I missed that last night!!

 

[TJBaker57]

You could also pull the fuse for it and see if the heat goes away, however I don't know if that fuse powers any other function

Cannot pull that fuse and still drive as that fuse also powers all the transmission solenoids, and the IGN 0 input to the PCM.

 

[TJBaker57]

One other note about the wiring diagrams,,,

Here is another example why we need to always be vigilant about confirming diagrams.

On the diagram for the "Ignition Lock Solenoid" the notation at the top for the key positions when the fuse is powered is incorrect. The correct power states should read "Hot in ACCY, RUN, and START".

If that circuit was not powered with the key in ACCY we would never be able to turn our key to OFF as that circuit is neccesary to power the solenoid that allows the ignition cylinder to turn to OFF.

The description at this video explains what you see here....

 

[Elizabetty]

Thank you. I ended up taking the ignition switch out since it's my newer one and putting it back in and making sure I had the connection tight. I was screwing around with it recently so maybe I didn't have the connector seated well. I thought just in case, I'll mess with it.

Current situation is after driving all day and not needing to stop because of problems, it's only burning hot while idling for awhile like if I'm waiting for a curbside food order and it's running, after a few minutes it gets hot. Once I start driving, it cools down. I suspect an issue with my blower motor. I'm wondering if at idle, that entire circuit is struggling as opposed to when driving. Is that possible? Not sure how hard something runs at one time during another

Thanks for clarification on the part in question. I went by what the part sale site had for a description so I appreciate the correct information. That explains why I wasn't finding a diagram that looks like the one supplied here.

I was surprised to hear there is no chip of any sort in the key or key fob since the last time I was at a shop, a comment was made about how it took a couple clicks for him to get it to register and lock and unlock my doors. He said something about the battery possibly needing changed if the chip wasn't damaged. When I reflected on that, I thought maybe that was causing some sort of problem when it was in the ignition which is why I had mentioned the chip. Interesting.

Also, I didn't mention it because I figured it was unrelated, but coincidentally after putting the ignition switch back in, my steering that I thought was going out on me recently or my front end needed help asap, straightened itself out today and shifting was back to normal. The steering has been going on for a few days but the transmission issue seemed to sync up with my electrical in the dash and lights etc last night. I can't say for sure or not if I ever had a hot ignition when the steering issue happened before so that's why I can't correlate it but the transmission was something I could immediately feel. It wasn't a power steering issue. It was more like an off-center steering wheel that had always existed in a very tiny amount was suddenly very off center and the vehicle just felt loose in the front end for lack of a better word and the steering was one of those loose things. It also felt like I must have hit a major pothole because I was pulling to one side. Both disappeared today, all day and night, so that's weird to me. Perhaps one is related to whatever is happening near the ignition and the other isn't or they're both not, but it did cross my mind that I need to learn how differentials work as well as the transfer case when it is in 2hi because I got to thinking I wonder if having the fluids serviced resulted in just overall alignment of gears axle whatever and perhaps that was why my steering was improved. Obviously that could all be wrong but in any case, I apparently do not need an alignment right now and I don't have tired arms from a vehicle pulling to the side.

Today, everything was back to normal, I drove 8 hours, much if it through the mountains on a scenic route with lots of slowing down and speeding up, and everything held up great. My steering was fabulous. Transmission was back to whatever I know as its normal where 3rd gear is a little angry sometimes, but otherwise great. Side note, since working on this for a few months and putting in a new water pump, various hoses and belt, air filter, a few sensors, a solenoid I can't remember the name of right now, cleaning or repairing grounds and random wiring (including straight-from-the-factory carpet in C1 pin connections), and recently transfer case fluid and differential oil, of course an oil change, I made a steady 17 to 23mpg so far between Wisconsin and Vermont. The lower end was when I was doing some rest stop idling while mapping my next destination or enjoying a meal, anxiety stop etc. During stretches of no idle time, only drive and stop for gas, I held steady at 19 with mountain climbs for hours. Pretty happy with that. 23 in Ohio through farm land on county and state roads. I patted myself on the back a couple times. When I bought it in November, I was working with 11-13mpg on a GOOD day. Wasn't abnormal to see 8.

 

[RmbrNoel03EXT]

I realize this is kind of an old thread but IS IT normal for that component to get hot? Or should I be looking to replace if it's getting overly hot?