Stabilizer End Link or Sway Bar Links? or do they both need to be changed?

[bleu7]

hello old friends, i have a question.

Lately as i drive and go over bumps or take a sharp turn, i hear a loud rattle noise. I was originally told it was my Sway Bar Links, but after looking on youtube i am wondering if its the Stabilizer End Links.

The noise is pretty much like loose metal hitting on metal, my Sway Bar Links are pretty loose as in easy to move, so that looks like it may be the issue, but a video on youtube mentioned changing the bushings and stabilizer links, for a noisy sway bar link.

any input is welcomed thank you.

 

[groundshock]

Two different terms for the same part. They're a known problematic design. Consider SuspensionMAXX replacements if you are planning on keeping the vehicle for a while.

 

[bleu7]

Two different terms for the same part. They're a known problematic design. Consider SuspensionMAXX replacements if you are planning on keeping the vehicle for a while.

Ahh are they better than moog? I wantrd to take care of this this weekend, I dont think I can get those shipped in, in time.

Is installation difficult? Ive done transfer case fluid change and rear differential fluid change on my own with instructions found online.

Is there anything else I should also change while the sway bar links are changed?

Thanks!

 

[groundshock]

MOOG's are better than the stock stuff so I've heard, but they're not SuspensionMAXX that's for sure. If they have a lifetime warranty, then get them. Just prepare to replace em again.

A nutless monkey could change them. There should be a writeup on the site somewhere, you'll be fine. Good luck.

 

[Mesoholics]

A nutless monkey could change them. There should be a writeup on the site somewhere, you'll be fine. Good luck.

Agreed, I had not even been under our truck for something other than the Oil until this winter, it took less than 5min per side to change the Links. We just got generic replacements for $19.99 per side as we are unsure how long we are going to be using the vehicle and spent our budget for parts elsewhere. I would generally get OEM+ for all parts we swap out but in this case it did not make sense.

I can get the torque specs for you if you need them / can't find them anywhere but our manual is at my friends house with the truck and out of reach atm.

 

[Mooseman]

I'm pretty sure you could find torque specs and instructions here
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[seanpooh]

There is pros and cons for Moog vs SMaxx.

The Moogs are balljoints where you would grease them and pretty much will last as long as OEM as long as you keep them greased. The con is greasing them. The direction is akward to fit a grease gun when you have to jack up the vehicle.

As for Suspension Maxxx, they are the install and forget about them. Thats the pro along with great customer service from them. But the con is that if you do lots of driving and are hard on turns, the bushing will wear out and need replaced. Also they are kind of squeaky so a dab of grease to break in new bushings. Replacement bushing runs ~$25.

Either choice is good. I have the SMaxx for front and rear and I like them. I had to replace the front bushings once where I've owned them for about 2.5 years.

 

[81turboguy]

I did Moog's back in October and it looks/sounds like I need to change them again in the rear. These Pennsylvania winter potholes are hell!
Since I'll do them myself I'll probably look at SMaxx since I already tried a pair of Moogs. Front and rear bushings were recently replaced too.

 

[groundshock]

Now that I look, its doesn't appear that even the MOOG's are a lifetime warranty part. Just goes to show the design of the part is garbage.

 

[BoldAdventure]

Now that I look, its doesn't appear that even the MOOG's are a lifetime warranty part. Just goes to show the design of the part is garbage.

They are designed that way on almost every car.

The problem is the OEM ones and even the MOOG's are garbage.

My OEM's where such garbage I had to cut them off.

Comparison:

End results:

The SMaxx links are easier to remove and install. They're stronger and perform better. Stop looking at price when buying things for your car. Poor broke people look at price and they stay poor and broke because of it. (Dont' take this wrong, this is not an endorsement of buying the most expensive part, it's about finding true value). Look at long term value and reliability. Otherwise you'll be replacing them a year from now and just wasting more money. Just sayin.

 

[Mark20]

My mechanic found a bad one during inspection a year or two ago and he had to break the nuts to get them off.

 

[bleu7]

Thank you all for the great input.

I believe I will go with the Maxx ones hopefully the ones i have on will last another week or so.

My current ones, the nut is pretty loose, worse case scenerio what would happen if they break off mid drive??

 

[groundshock]

You'll find out the meaning of 'body roll' rather quickly.

 

[bleu7]

Agreed, I had not even been under our truck for something other than the Oil until this winter, it took less than 5min per side to change the Links. We just got generic replacements for $19.99 per side as we are unsure how long we are going to be using the vehicle and spent our budget for parts elsewhere. I would generally get OEM+ for all parts we swap out but in this case it did not make sense.

I can get the torque specs for you if you need them / can't find them anywhere but our manual is at my friends house with the truck and out of reach atm.

5min per side?? Can you point me in the right direction. The only instructions ive found mention taking off the sway bar as well to remove the end links.

Looking at them it looks like removing two simple nuts on each side??

 

[seanpooh]

If and when you do purchase the smaxx links, they will come with instructions. I looked at the specs and they are 107lbs/ft. That is a lot... I used a lock washer and threadlocker to keep them puppies on.

I'd say... 30 minutes max with jacking up vehicle and taking off the wheels which is optional but will give more room to work with.

Also since you're going to change the links, take a look at the actual bushings that is holding your sway bar to the frame. If you grab it and wiggle it and see it really wiggle, it's time for new ones.

 

[BoldAdventure]

Some of us don't even roll with Sway bars. They're for mall crawlers, lol.

It is just two nuts, lol. Think about that statement.

 

[bleu7]

If and when you do purchase the smaxx links, they will come with instructions. I looked at the specs and they are 107lbs/ft. That is a lot... I used a lock washer and threadlocker to keep them puppies on.

I'd say... 30 minutes max with jacking up vehicle and taking off the wheels which is optional but will give more room to work with.

Also since you're going to change the links, take a look at the actual bushings that is holding your sway bar to the frame. If you grab it and wiggle it and see it really wiggle, it's time for new ones.

I have seen the instructions online i hope the ones that come with the actual parts are a little bit more in depth but looks pretty straight forward, a few nuts and bolts.

I've never tighten anything to torque-spec do they sell some sort of tool to tell you how many lbs/ft i am tightening to?
I have checked the sway bar and it feels pretty solid. my sway bar links nut was almost off, so i was able to hand tighten it for now till my parts arrive.
thank you for all your help.

btw you used both a thread locker and lock washer on all 4 bolts??

 

[Gevans17]

I did Moog's back in October and it looks/sounds like I need to change them again in the rear. These Pennsylvania winter potholes are hell!
Since I'll do them myself I'll probably look at SMaxx since I already tried a pair of Moogs. Front and rear bushings were recently replaced too.

Have the same issue on the rear with my Moogs. The bolt thru the frame on the Moog is too small. Even with the nut as tight as I can get it, the end link bolt can move inside the hole in the frame. Sick and tired of GM's shitty design with the stupid ball joint end links.

 

[Mooseman]

Maybe add washers between the mounting points to give extra clamping power.

 

[Gevans17]

Maybe add washers between the mounting points to give extra clamping power.

It was on so tight, I had to use a torch to get it off. I really need a sleeve of some kind to go over the bolt and into/thru the frame. Would have to enlarge the hole in the frame though for it to fi thru the frame