Saab 9-7x AWD problems

[kkoether]

Well halalula. No clunking as of last night. Its been 24 hours!

Oh yeah, I should mention that I now have a new light on the dashboard. It looks like a chassis with 4 wheels and a wrench beside it. Hey, but it stopped doing everything that was frustrating the hell out of me. But I am sure that its not good.

That would be the "Service AWD" light. Sounds like something set a code. The wife had one pop up on the Rainier a year and a half ago. She took it to the dealer because I was out of town. They updated the PCM and it has not come back. Not sure what the update was for but........... as I said it hasn't come back. Good Luck!

 

[Skypie]

What didn't come back? the light or the clunking noise?

 

[kkoether]

What didn't come back? the light or the clunking noise?

The Service AWD light did not come back on. At the time she got it though there were no strange noise's or anything to go along with the light.

 

[SaabDriver]

Just discovered this forum and glad I did. I live in San Diego and Roadie, if you are am automotive specialist, I would like to consider coming to you direct if possible (if you do this type of work) regarding 'chattering' issues stemming from the rear differential as the dealer wrote on the work order for a Saab 9-7x that I have. Posters here have referred to the problem as binding. I initially went in for a paid estimate and then paying to service the differential to try and eliminate 'chattering' issues that would cause the car to make audible noises that did not sound good coming from the rear. The issue went away for about a month and then has come back. The dealer then suggests an overhaul at $2500 for which I am not prepared to do as I have gone online and can order a Saab Differential and then have paid to install.

However, in coming to the forum and seeing similar postings to the same problem I am having for example and in addition am experiencing the same: "Checked transfer case fluid, it is clear. Changed rear end fluid again...but to no avail the car is binding up again with a whiny noise...(kind of like an airplane)" makes me wonder what the right course of action is as I really like the vehicle and want to keep it.

If I cannot see you, would you advise that I change the differential with a factory ordered one and install?

Thanks and look forward to reply.

 

[The_Roadie]

Welcome and hello! I'm an electrical engineer by profession, and a volunteer here on this site (and others), so I only work on vehicles in my driveway on weekends, and advise folks who want to do the work themselves and I loan them tools if they need something special. I have a local (Vista) GM-specialist shop I take my truck to for things I'm not comfortable doing, like tranny servicing.

That said, I've swapped my own rear axle with a junkyard unit, for under $500. $2500 rebuilds at the dealer would be ludicrous. If you have a friend and want to do that, given an accurate diagnosis (doubtful you have a really accurate diagnosis yet), PM me.

Also, I doubt your sole issue with binding is in the rear diff. MUCH more likely to be in the transfer case or its encoder motor. What's your maintenance history, with mileage, of transfer case fluid changes and diff oil changes?

 

[The_Roadie]

Oh, and do you have the "G80" option? Look on the glove box build option sticker.

 

[The_Roadie]

Oh, and my brother from Wisconsin is wintering with me here to escape the snow and cold, and he IS an auto professional, so I suppose I should pimp his services and say we WOULD be interested in an axle swap project for pay if you want to go that way.

Where are you in the county?

 

[Skypie]

Ever since my AWD service light came on the noises have gone away and the vehicle runs well.

The only problem is that it is now only rear wheel drive.

Over the past 2 years I have had a new encoder motor installed, transfer case rebuilt and cleaned out and I drained and refilled the front diff. When the encoder motor broke I also took out the rear diff gear (wasn't cheap). At the time the AWD service light came on I was getting a whining noise. And previous to the transfer case repair the vehicle would whine and clunk.

Right now the only issue I have is that it still seems to lurch a bit at stops while idling. You get the odd clunk.

At a loss now. Will probably just drive it in rear wheel drive until the end. Just approaching 200,000 km

 

[SaabDriver]

Skypie,

I appreciate your input. I am just waiting for my turn at work where I can have the encoder motor disabled to see if that is causing the rear clunks (for which I hope is the case and then I can just order and replace). If not, I will proceed to transfer case. It's good to know that I am not the only one in this position.

I will update as I get word.

Best...

SaabDriver

 

[SaabDriver]

Roadie,

A friend of mine who is a transmission specialist finally had an opportunity to look into the transfer case encoder motor issue to start. The transfer case encoder motor was unplugged which caused the vehicle to lock up entirely.

He researched the link that you provided me:
Offroadtb.com Transfer Case Operation: NVG 226 (NP8)

It centered on this area:
The NVG 226 transfer case has the added feature of also providing the driver with 3 manual mode/range positions:

4HI 4-Wheel Drive high range
2HI 2-Wheel Drive high range
4LO 4-Wheel Drive low range

The question that came up was how to choose these desired positions as there is no evident switch. Currently it is set at 4X4 and cannot be modified. It is causing the car to drive 'heavy' when I make turns.

If by figuring this part out, I can then move onto the clunking and jerking....

Thanks.

Welcome and hello! I'm an electrical engineer by profession, and a volunteer here on this site (and others), so I only work on vehicles in my driveway on weekends, and advise folks who want to do the work themselves and I loan them tools if they need something special. I have a local (Vista) GM-specialist shop I take my truck to for things I'm not comfortable doing, like tranny servicing.

That said, I've swapped my own rear axle with a junkyard unit, for under $500. $2500 rebuilds at the dealer would be ludicrous. If you have a friend and want to do that, given an accurate diagnosis (doubtful you have a really accurate diagnosis yet), PM me.

Also, I doubt your sole issue with binding is in the rear diff. MUCH more likely to be in the transfer case or its encoder motor. What's your maintenance history, with mileage, of transfer case fluid changes and diff oil changes?

 

[IllogicTC]

Roadie,

A friend of mine who is a transmission specialist finally had an opportunity to look into the transfer case encoder motor issue to start. The transfer case encoder motor was unplugged which caused the vehicle to lock up entirely.

He researched the link that you provided me:
Offroadtb.com Transfer Case Operation: NVG 226 (NP8)

It centered on this area:
The NVG 226 transfer case has the added feature of also providing the driver with 3 manual mode/range positions:

4HI 4-Wheel Drive high range
2HI 2-Wheel Drive high range
4LO 4-Wheel Drive low range

The question that came up was how to choose these desired positions as there is no evident switch. Currently it is set at 4X4 and cannot be modified. It is causing the car to drive 'heavy' when I make turns.

If by figuring this part out, I can then move onto the clunking and jerking....

Thanks.

There is no "switch" per se, but removing the encoder motor may allow you access to the bits to be moved to disengage. Refer to the extra view in the diagrams provided, the one with the arrow pointing to it. I myself haven't been into it, but assuming those parts are internal a scope may be required to see what the positions are at. The quarter-circle plate is the part the encoder motor rotates to make selections, the part on the left labeled (4) is pushed out, toward the front of the case, to actuate the 4x4 clutches, and the part on the right (7) controls the high/low shift fork. The proper position to disengage the system would be to have part (8) pointing just how the diagram shows - part (4) is touching one of the "lowered" areas on it, and the pin on the other end of part (8) sitting at the bottom of the shift detent (7), not out of the detent nor up where it's engaging.

 

[SaabDriver]

Roadie,

Thanks... I sincerely appreciate the advice. I will follow up when I have an update.

SaabDriver

There is no "switch" per se, but removing the encoder motor may allow you access to the bits to be moved to disengage. Refer to the extra view in the diagrams provided, the one with the arrow pointing to it. I myself haven't been into it, but assuming those parts are internal a scope may be required to see what the positions are at. The quarter-circle plate is the part the encoder motor rotates to make selections, the part on the left labeled (4) is pushed out, toward the front of the case, to actuate the 4x4 clutches, and the part on the right (7) controls the high/low shift fork. The proper position to disengage the system would be to have part (8) pointing just how the diagram shows - part (4) is touching one of the "lowered" areas on it, and the pin on the other end of part (8) sitting at the bottom of the shift detent (7), not out of the detent nor up where it's engaging.

 

[SaabDriver]

IllogicTC... I apologize, I thought you were The Roadie giving me advice and then i saw it was you.
Thanks.... SaabDriver

Roadie,

Thanks... I sincerely appreciate the advice. I will follow up when I have an update.

SaabDriver

 

[IllogicTC]

IllogicTC... I apologize, I thought you were The Roadie giving me advice and then i saw it was you.
Thanks.... SaabDriver

It's all good. Roadie may turn back up to confirm/deny my idea anyway

 

[SaabDriver]

Roadie, Skypie, IllogicTC and GMT (for this incredible forum)

I would like to initially address and give sincere thanks so far for your support and comments to help me address 'chattering', 'crow hopping(?)',
rumbling/shaking issues when I would make reverse and turn or make turning movements (The dealer wanted me to spend $2400 to overhaul
the differential) with my Saab 9-7X.

Based on your advice, I went and purchased a new $150 transfer case motor online to try and 'fix' the chattering issues that I was having.
It has been two days and so far the issue is gone!

I will keep observing though as I have not really been driving the vehicle. I am still hearing a low whine when I approach a stop (maybe because
the vehicle is operating in continual AWD) or when I am at a stop I will hear an occasional dull minor thud from the back as if the car is dropping a gear.

I am prepared to by a transfer case if that is next. I will post soon again and will look for more content here.

Thanks......

SaabDriver

 

[kkoether]

SaabDriver, That dull thump when stopped could be the splines on the drive shaft are dry and need some grease. What you may be hearing is the spine shaft sticking as it is trying to slide back together as the vehicle settles after you stop. Instead of a smooth fluid motion it sticks then slips.

 

[The_Roadie]

Discussed:
http://gmtnation.com/f79/feels-like-i-get-rear-ended-when-sitting-red-light-2430/

 

[mystic96]

Oh, and do you have the "G80" option? Look on the glove box build option sticker.

Our 2005 97x 5.3L has the G86 "limited slip differential"

 

[Timberwolfe]

I stumbled onto this forum and I am very gratefully to GMTNation. I too am having AWD issues. My front wheel drive is stuck in all the time and is most notable when making turns but I also
can tell driving down the road, mostly quick to slow and heavy for acceleration. After reading here I will check/(observe) and change fluids in the F/R differ and transf. case. I also will
rotate my tires, I do keep the air even all times and they are a set match. Funny, one year ago (10,000-15,000 miles ago) I had this all checked, I guess the components can be full just in
need of a flush with fresh lubes. Can the encoder motor on the T.C. be tested with a fluke meter? or can it be energized to get a response? I see it is a five pin flat plug. Any thoughts on that anyone?
To The_Roadie, or anyone else that might know, is their a chip for the Saab 97x to give it more HP and better fuel mileage?

A kind thank you and Happy Saab's to you!

 

[IllogicTC]

I stumbled onto this forum and I am very gratefully to GMTNation. I too am having AWD issues. My front wheel drive is stuck in all the time and is most notable when making turns but I also
can tell driving down the road, mostly quick to slow and heavy for acceleration. After reading here I will check/(observe) and change fluids in the F/R differ and transf. case. I also will
rotate my tires, I do keep the air even all times and they are a set match. Funny, one year ago (10,000-15,000 miles ago) I had this all checked, I guess the components can be full just in
need of a flush with fresh lubes. Can the encoder motor on the T.C. be tested with a fluke meter? or can it be energized to get a response? I see it is a five pin flat plug. Any thoughts on that anyone?
To The_Roadie, or anyone else that might know, is their a chip for the Saab 97x to give it more HP and better fuel mileage?

A kind thank you and Happy Saab's to you!

Doing a full fluid change on those three things is a great idea. Will it solve your issue? I don't know, the best I can give is a maybe. But you will still have the peace of mind that those are done up. I'm not sure on how to test an encoder motor on an AWD system, but one solution would be if you had a buddy with a high-end scan tool (like a Tech 2), they could actually command the encoder to arbitrary positions and read feedback to determine if it is working properly.

The transfer case fluid is a must! It absolutely MUST be changed every 50,000 miles. Especially since the Saab has an AWD system similar to the TB/Envoy A4WD system, which is known to be really tough on the clutches inside of the transfer case. Inspect the fluid as it comes out, it should either be blue or at most a sort of dishwater gray. Any other color, or sludge, or bits of metal or other things, coming out with the fluid is a sign of something more sinister afoot.

There is no "wonder chip" for the platform. I don't think this platform was popular enough among the modding community to warrant full-on aftermarket solder-in replacement chips like you'd find on some JDM crap, and others are downright frauds. HOWEVER! Many members here have successfully used the services of PCMofNC to have their PCM (the computer running the engine) reflashed to different setups. They actually alter the values used by the PCM in determining what it's going to do, and have packages such as performance and economy available, and I'm sure they'd also work with you on a custom blend. They can also deactivate engine codes if that's your thing, such as turning off the p0410 SAIS code where it'll never show up. Google for PCMofNC, and people who have gone through with the reflash can answer questions, too. While their services are listed for TrailBlazers and Envoys, I'd be willing to bet they could do a 9-7x too since it's very similar, and pretty well the same underhood as far as I can tell.

 

[The_Roadie]

Can the encoder motor on the T.C. be tested with a fluke meter? or can it be energized to get a response? I see it is a five pin flat plug. Any thoughts on that anyone?

The schematics are available for download, but you can bench test the motor with a 12V supply or battery. Two pins are for the motor, and reversing the power will spin the motor the other way. The other three pins are for the position feedback sensor - a potentiometer. You can use the Fluke to read the resistance on the pot. But only a high end scan tool like the GM Tech II can command the encoder motor while it's on the vehicle to go through its range of motion. Most everybody in your position has a gummed up transfer case whose fluid change interval was ignored.

To The_Roadie, or anyone else that might know, is their a chip for the Saab 97x to give it more HP and better fuel mileage?

Shirley, you're joking.

http://gmtnation.com/f24/has-anyone-purchased-gforce-performance-chip-does-improve-mpg-5494/

and many other threads. There is a PCM *tune* you can buy from a vendor here - PCMofNC. Those work. "Chips" do not, and we mock them.

 

[Texan]

Our 2005 97x 5.3L has the G86 "limited slip differential"

My 2 cents. I know from experience that if you have "locked rear end", "limited slip
differential", or what I knew as "posi track", the fluid in the differential should be
changed every 50k miles, with the proper additive. If this was not done, it could
lead to jerking when turning corners, and tire diameter or circumference can create
problems.

 

[Timberwolfe]

Illogic TC and The Roadie, you guys are awesome hands down! Thanks so much for fast responses and great advise! Will be tackling my problem soon but until then its going to sit. I can't wait to share my results with you guys, it must be a good feeling to help solve others problems not even knowing them! Again many thanks! Tim

 

[Timberwolfe]

At mystic96, thanks bud, if fluid flushes fixes the problem I won't have a problem with changing fluids more often than 50,000 miles.

 

[Timberwolfe]

Update: First and foremost thanks up front for all the advise and suggestions, very much appreciated! Thursday night I was able to change the transfer case oil, the blue GM auto-trak II lubricant was clean and the case was full. I benched the encoder motor and Marked its position, I bumped it with 12 volts it worked in both directions. When I finished with the TC I moved on to the front differential. It was leaking some by the obvious oil in the area and there was plenty of it. Draining the 75-90 was maybe half of a quart and dark but no metal or filings. I replenished the TC and front differential.

Today I rotated my tires, checked the air pressure, jacked up the front to see if both tires turn, they turn opposite directions. But If one tire is bound then I can't turn the other tire, (is this normal?) also the shaft to the trans case didn't turn but I could see it wanted to turn likely normal.? I checked the fuse panels, ya never know.

I still haven't solved the problem. It is so tight or resistant when turning it feels like the brakes are applied, it fusses like no other.
Should I be able to freewheel both front tires if the clutch isn't bound up? Also is there a front diff. sensor in the housing somewhere?
When does the front wheel drive know when to assist the rear wheel drive?

 

[IllogicTC]

Update: First and foremost thanks up front for all the advise and suggestions, very much appreciated! Thursday night I was able to change the transfer case oil, the blue GM auto-trak II lubricant was clean and the case was full. I benched the encoder motor and Marked its position, I bumped it with 12 volts it worked in both directions. When I finished with the TC I moved on to the front differential. It was leaking some by the obvious oil in the area and there was plenty of it. Draining the 75-90 was maybe half of a quart and dark but no metal or filings. I replenished the TC and front differential.

Today I rotated my tires, checked the air pressure, jacked up the front to see if both tires turn, they turn opposite directions. But If one tire is bound then I can't turn the other tire, (is this normal?) also the shaft to the trans case didn't turn but I could see it wanted to turn likely normal.? I checked the fuse panels, ya never know.

I still haven't solved the problem. It is so tight or resistant when turning it feels like the brakes are applied, it fusses like no other.
Should I be able to freewheel both front tires if the clutch isn't bound up? Also is there a front diff. sensor in the housing somewhere?
When does the front wheel drive know when to assist the rear wheel drive?

Not entirely sure if it's normal for it to be impossible to turn the tire with other other bound. At minimum the clutch is supposed to be at 5% engagement. There'd be a bit of resistance but it shouldn't feel like it's fully locked in, I wouldn't think. With one tire on the ground, yes the prop shaft would want to turn.

With AWD, the front axle is locked in full time. There is no "free-wheel" like on 4x4 models, where you can turn the two tires independently of each other. As for clutch binding, I'm wondering if having one tire up and one tire down isn't a good way to detect if the clutch is bound. I'm trying to think on how differentials work and I would think it should be able to turn decently freely instead of feeling tight.

There is no front differential sensor. There should be no disconnect sensor (as there technically is no disconnect). It knows how when to help the front by comparing the wheel speed sensors built into the front hub assemblies to the rear, likely by comparing the VSS to what the front sensors are reporting.

 

[The_Roadie]

I benched the encoder motor and Marked its position, I bumped it with 12 volts it worked in both directions.

Just for everybody else reading this. Bench testing the motor alone is only possible on one of the encoder motors for the NP126 AWD transfer case with five pins. The seven pin units for the 4WD NP226 on the Trailblazer and Envoy requires you to also power the brake release pins to allow the motor to move.

But If one tire is bound then I can't turn the other tire, (is this normal?)

Mostly. It proves the tires are connected through the differential

also the shaft to the trans case didn't turn but I could see it wanted to turn likely normal.?

Sort of normal, but I don't have one of these to test it. If your front driveshaft is hung up by excessive transfer case clutch grabbiness to the rear driveshaft (which can't turn because the rear wheels are on the ground) that may be the source of your driveline bindup.

I still haven't solved the problem. It is so tight or resistant when turning it feels like the brakes are applied, it fusses like no other.
Should I be able to freewheel both front tires if the clutch isn't bound up? Also is there a front diff. sensor in the housing somewhere?

Sounds like you're getting excessive driveline binding due to the transfer case clutches not disengaging well when the TCCM commands minimum torque, which is normally 5%. You could have grabby clutches, a broken bearing mount inside the transfer case (happens on pre-2005 units sometimes) or some other internal problem. A dealer or independent mechanic with a sufficiently advanced scan tool can talk to the TCCM and command the encoder motor to various positions. But normally, the 5% default torque transfer position of the TC clutches can be easily overpowered by driving in parking lots with the steering wheel turned. If yours can't, and your Trak II fluid is new and the right level, then the TCCM or mechanical issues inside the transfer case are suspect.

When does the front wheel drive know when to assist the rear wheel drive?

The transfer case has driveshaft RPM sensors for the front and rear. When they're rotating at different RPMs, the TCCM detects this, and sends power to the encoder motor to engage the transfer case clutches until the RPM difference goes back to zero. For more reading, check out the A4WD mode section of this tech document from our sister offroading site:
Offroadtb.com Transfer Case Operation: NVG 226 (NP8)

 

[Timberwolfe]

Thanks gentlemen for your great knowledge and replies, much obliged! Today also I removed the rear diff cover, the 75-90 lube was dark and there was plenty of it but not sure if it was full. The gears looked good and only normal wear filings stuck to the magnet quite minimal.

I did one of those 'don't try this at home' crazy things. With the front tires slightly off the floor and the engine running I inched it forward and the front wheels turned, this normal? I lifted the rear slightly off the floor same thing, the car inched forward while the rear wheels turned, would have drove like a front wheel drive, this normal too? Lol crazy!

I unplugged the five pin plug to the encoder motor, this did nothing except light up the dash with a wrench and AWD symbol indicating an issue.

Circles in both directions for the best of ten minuets and tried in reverse also. The wheels turned left in forward and reverse is by far worse than the wheels turned right. Now I see what crow-hop is or what ever you call it and binding. Still feels like the brakes are applied to the point it will stop by its self fairly quick just letting off the gas with the wheels turned left.

Thanks all for your support!

 

[Timberwolfe]

I made this a lot harder on myself than it should have been. Learning is good, understanding it all, well maybe not. Lol. I finally found the problem, the encoder motor has a broken gear post creating a bind and not letting the position to return to neutral. I don't know why it broke but I hope a new one will last. I took encode motor out last week and tested it but only bumped it in both directions, I thought it was good to go, guess not! Thanks Illogic TC, The_Roadie, Texan and all GMTNation

 

[JDB]

Why is our '06 Saab 97x 4.2 with 109k miles on it eating encoder motors monthly?

I've been reading posts on various forums, done what I can at this point...and cant find a solution.

47k all 4 drivetrain fluids changed. OEM fluids used by dealer when under CPO when we complained of a whirring noise that ended up being the output shaft bearing... replaced under CPO warranty.

Fast forward from 2009... and hit 100k and flushed front diff with M1 75w90 when doing an oil change. I had planned to do the transfer case but it's been very cold this winter and was planning to wait for spring. That didn't happen. AWD - wrench light came on and it was stuck in RWD. I spend a diagnostic fee at the dealer that had Saab and our records. $70 later, told its the encoder motor. sticker shock of the OEM part, I buy a Dorman 600-904 on Amazon for $117 shipped says it meets the code for 126 NP4 and 5 pin... fixes the problem. AWD engaging again and light is off. Warmer weather one weekend and flush out the transfer case for some new blue AutoTack II fluid for transfer case. What came out looked ok.

A month later... wife says the light is on again. Test drive, now stuck in AWD and of course crow hopping like crazy, won't turn too far when slow and now a PITA for the wife to drive.I take it back bending over for the dealer again and pay the $70 again for the same thing...need an encoder motor...code C0306 again. Amazon takes the other one back and sends a new one. Again, fixes the problem... all good again...RWD when under 20mph and then AWD kicks in. I find some snowy parking lot and AWD works great.

Then another month or so... and wife again sends pic of the light in again... stuck in RWD now again. That's how we've been driving it the last week. Why are these motors failing??

WTF?

Amazon isn't letting us return another one... I cant blame them... but now I'm at a loss of what to do now. I don't want to buy yet another encoder motor for it just to fail again.

Help!

I've been maintaining this SUV with plans of driving it into the ground at some point, but this isn't it yet. It's been reliable except for this. I put in rotors/pads and brake fluid flush, plugs, air filter, battery, coolant temp sensor, tstat in the last 1-2 years, tires still have plenty of meat left. M1 5w30 always since we've had it since 24k miles in 2008 when we bought it from a Saab dealer going out of business. with DVD for the kids, running boards for the shorty wife... it doesn't need anything else right now, and it fits what we need/want from a family SUV. I'm not giving up on it yet.

 

[The_Roadie]

Welcome! Glad you found the active support community!

Encoder motors don't just "go". They can be asked to work too hard and then break by a transfer case whose control shaft has high friction or intermittently jams up from internal carnage in the transfer case. Or a bad TCCM could conceivably slam the encoder motor to its stops too many times and strip the planetary gear set inside.

What nobody has done, and IMHO the dealer owed it to you, is to find out WHY the encoder motors died. By taking the encoder motor off the transfer case and THEN commanding it using the Tech II tool. And then seeing how much force was required to turn the transfer case clutch control shaft using pliers. If they failed to do that, then they haven't properly troubleshot the system to give you an accurate diagnosis. For $70, it seems they don't stand behind their diagnostic skills.

Disassemble the bad encoder motor and check the gears.

 

[JDB]

Welcome! Glad you found the active support community!

Encoder motors don't just "go". They can be asked to work too hard and then break by a transfer case whose control shaft has high friction or intermittently jams up from internal carnage in the transfer case. Or a bad TCCM could conceivably slam the encoder motor to its stops too many times and strip the planetary gear set inside.

What nobody has done, and IMHO the dealer owed it to you, is to find out WHY the encoder motors died. By taking the encoder motor off the transfer case and THEN commanding it using the Tech II tool. And then seeing how much force was required to turn the transfer case clutch control shaft using pliers. If they failed to do that, then they haven't properly troubleshot the system to give you an accurate diagnosis. For $70, it seems they don't stand behind their diagnostic skills.

Disassemble the bad encoder motor and check the gears.

So, it could be the TCCM?

Is there a writeup to disassemble the encoder motor? I kept the OEM one that failed.

Agreed on not getting what I wanted from dealer... I asked advisor how the tech used the Tech II and if he ran the encoder motor through its cycles. Of course, advisor doesn't know...says that's the code the tech pulled. So, second time at dealer, I make them ask the tech what he did... says the same thing...ran tests and its the motor. I hate dealers...wasted $70x2...I cant find anyone else with a tech II and familiar with these AWD systems.

 

[Timberwolfe]

Definitely check the position of the clutch control shaft. The groove on the shaft should be on top. My encoder motor was bound keeping my shaft slightly to the left of center. When removing the motor the shaft would go to neutral on its own. I had no indications on my instrument panels that I was stuck in all wheel. when I unplugged the motor a wrench and all wheel drive would light up. connections to the speed sensors and the encoder motor should be cleaned (with electrical cleaner only).

 

[Yellowducky]

Hi all, I am so glad I've found this forum and this thread in particular.

I just joined the forum as I just bought a new to me 9-7x and my AWD service light was lit 30km after I took delivery from the dealer.

I took it back to the dealership in Peterborough (130km away from me) but they didnt want to touch it since they are a Chrysler dealership. They did however made arrangement with a local GM dealership in Stouffville to look at the problem and agreed to pay for it.

I suspect its the TC encoder motor as I didn't hear any chattering or clunking noise but front seems to be locked when turning with steering fully cranked. But at the same time, the rear spins when I stepped on it from a standstill in a sandy road and took a second to hook up (at least thats what I felt).

Hopefully its a simple fix and thanks all for the input on this thread.

 

[The_Roadie]

Is there a writeup to disassemble the encoder motor? I kept the OEM one that failed.

There have been pictures of disassembled ones. I'd expect it to be obvious.

.wasted $70x2..

Only if you give up and fail to escalate it to GM regional level or dispute the charge with your credit card company because they failed to deliver what you paid for. Dealers only win when abused owners fail to enforce their consumer rights. It's the only way to hold their feet to the fire.

 

[SaabScott]

From a fellow Ontarian ... how have you made out? Any progress?

Hi all, I am so glad I've found this forum and this thread in particular.

I just joined the forum as I just bought a new to me 9-7x and my AWD service light was lit 30km after I took delivery from the dealer.

I took it back to the dealership in Peterborough (130km away from me) but they didnt want to touch it since they are a Chrysler dealership. They did however made arrangement with a local GM dealership in Stouffville to look at the problem and agreed to pay for it.

I suspect its the TC encoder motor as I didn't hear any chattering or clunking noise but front seems to be locked when turning with steering fully cranked. But at the same time, the rear spins when I stepped on it from a standstill in a sandy road and took a second to hook up (at least thats what I felt).

Hopefully its a simple fix and thanks all for the input on this thread.

 

[Yellowducky]

From a fellow Ontarian ... how have you made out? Any progress?

So I took it to Giles Chevy in Stouffville and is a small shop.

The invoice shows:
diagnostic 0.5 hr $54.5
Replace faulty encoder/clear codes/road test 1.2 hrs $130.80
actuator (part number 89059278) $505
core charge $25
core return ($25)

total with tax is $780.04

I know aftermarket actuator is about $250 so dealer part is way more expensive.

On another note, the tire stem/valve was so corroded that when I tried to loosen it to pump air, I snapped it off and the valve came flying out. tried to put the spare tire on but it was so corroded that the secondary latch didn't open. Ended up putting back the snow tire and took it to Roy Foss in Thornhill and got the spare tire winch replaced and 2 new TPMS installed. $800 out of pocket... peace of mind - priceless.

 

[Jasoncampbell]

So I took it to Giles Chevy in Stouffville and is a small shop.

The invoice shows:
diagnostic 0.5 hr $54.5
Replace faulty encoder/clear codes/road test 1.2 hrs $130.80
actuator (part number 89059278) $505
core charge $25
core return ($25)

total with tax is $780.04

I know aftermarket actuator is about $250 so dealer part is way more expensive.

On another note, the tire stem/valve was so corroded that when I tried to loosen it to pump air, I snapped it off and the valve came flying out. tried to put the spare tire on but it was so corroded that the secondary latch didn't open. Ended up putting back the snow tire and took it to Roy Foss in Thornhill and got the spare tire winch replaced and 2 new TPMS installed. $800 out of pocket... peace of mind - priceless.

So did you get you binding craw hoping fixed mine started doing same thing

Hi all, I am so glad I've found this forum and this thread in particular.

I just joined the forum as I just bought a new to me 9-7x and my AWD service light was lit 30km after I took delivery from the dealer.

I took it back to the dealership in Peterborough (130km away from me) but they didnt want to touch it since they are a Chrysler dealership. They did however made arrangement with a local GM dealership in Stouffville to look at the problem and agreed to pay for it.

I suspect its the TC encoder motor as I didn't hear any chattering or clunking noise but front seems to be locked when turning with steering fully cranked. But at the same time, the rear spins when I stepped on it from a standstill in a sandy road and took a second to hook up (at least thats what I felt).

Hopefully its a simple fix and thanks all for the input on this thread.

Did you get it fixed I have same issue

So did you get you binding craw hoping fixed mine started doing same thing

But I don’t have any awd lights on

 

[Mooseman]

You do realize that this is a 6 year old thread and likely won't get an answer from anyone in it.

Try this:

awd crow hopping site:gmtnation.com - Google Search

 

[Jasoncampbell]

So did you get you binding craw hoping fixed mine started doing same thing


Did you get it fixed I have same issue


But I don’t have any awd lights on

Mine is crawl hopping Does not want to turn left or right easy but I do not have any dash lights transmission lights nothing on