Power Steering Line Repair or Replace?

[psa55]

I noticed a few drops of fluid/oil on my snowy driveway when I went to hop in TB today. Right in front of the drivers tire. Peeked in the wheel well at the frame and noticed lots of oily mess. Looks like a power steering line is leaking. I topped the fluid level up last week, when it got cold enough to freeze my Power Steering Fluid ( I even turkey baster method, changed it about 18 months ago). Must have been some moisture get in. First time I've ever encountered that. I assume the freezing cracked my line. Soon as I started the TB up, it started running fluid down the frame right in front of the tire. It looks to be leaking behind the forward most frame clamp

I appears to be right from the outside line, which is the Lower Return Hose. I've got a few questions/options?
1. Do you think I could just cover it with a piece of 3/8" ID flexible hose and pipe clamp both end or over top to seal it up?
2. Lower Return hose is Part # 26095038. It's not too expensive. How much of a PITA is it to change at -20 Celcius? Time consuming or special tools?
EDIT: That part number doesn't seem to match up with the appearance of line that is currently on there. Unless the Gates has replaced my section that is leaking with a hose.
3. I've seen some that have used compression fittings and 3/8" brake line to replace the bad section. Thoughts on that idea?

I've quickly scanned lots of threads at this late hour, but hope to spend some more time here tomorrow. Anything you share of it you have good sticky on this, I'd appreciate it.
Thank you,
Scott

 

[Mooseman]

1. Do you think I could just cover it with a piece of 3/8" ID flexible hose and pipe clamp both end or over top to seal it up?

You'd have to cut out that portion of the line and use tubing with clamps. I'd use 4, double clamping at each end.

2. Lower Return hose is Part # 26095038. It's not too expensive. How much of a PITA is it to change at -20 Celcius? Time consuming or special tools?
EDIT: That part number doesn't seem to match up with the appearance of line that is currently on there. Unless the Gates has replaced my section that is leaking with a hose.

It's a PITA. The worse if getting to the rack and pinion end of it and to replace the seal, which can be a pain to get out. I've had the bolt that holds both lines break and had to lower the whole rack to get it out. Definitely not a winter sport.

3. I've seen some that have used compression fittings and 3/8" brake line to replace the bad section. Thoughts on that idea?

I've done that one too. Works on the low pressure return line only if there's good clean metal. Use steel line only. Tried copper and it never worked, kept leaking.

If it's at the front portion of that line that goes to the cooler, I'd just cut it there and use a rubber hose from there to the cooler. Consider replacing the whole thing in the spring because it usually rusts and leaks in the rubber isolator on top of the shock tower.

 

[psa55]

@Mooseman Thank you so much! This is exactly what I needed to know and exactly what I will do to get by. I'll go the hose route for now.

 

[Mooseman]

Also check your PS cooler. It's also rust prone. If that is also leaking you can also just bypass it until the spring.

 

[psa55]

I will check that out too. I did replace the PS cooler 2-3 yrs ago. Rusted out and leaked everywhere. At least it broke in July.

 

[JerryIrons]

I've repaired and replaced them, it really depends on the situation. But in the wintertime, I would patch if at all possible, and then keep an eye on it. Because yes putting in a new line can be a PIA, and one for the nicer weather.

 

[NJTB]

I did a repair on mine using 3/8 brake line and shur lock fittings. Cut it a few inches from the rubber part, and back to where there was good line, about 18". Bent the line to fit, and installed.
Lasted about 6 years until another part of the line rusted, then replaced both lines.
In -20C, I think I'd take it somewhere to have it done.

 

[Schurkey]

Be sure to use appropriate rubber hose and quality clamps on the return side. For fook's sake do not use ordinary rubber hose and clamps on the pressure side. Hydraulic hose would withstand the pressure, but won't "clamp" in place. Ordinary non-shielded worm-gear clamps have no business on a PS system; and they're a crappy way to clamp radiator hoses or anything else.

Even on the return side, "fuel hose" will not withstand the heat of the PS fluid, and it may not withstand the chemical composition of the PS fluid.

Parts stores sell PS return hose, which may be the same as automatic transmission cooler hose.

 

[psa55]

Thanks for all the info guys. Last week I grabbed hose recommended for PS and Transmissions from a local parts stores. Managed to cut out the pin hole without too much difficulty... splice in the hose. Double clamped it on both ends. It has been holding up great for the past few days.

The pieces of the line I cut out seemed really solid, except for the pin hole. Will have to keep a close eye on it for others and consider replacing the lines. Most expensive piece was a new litre of PS fluid... which is not too bad for a quick fix in winter.

 

[vipergg]

Also check your PS cooler. It's also rust prone. If that is also leaking you can also just bypass it until the spring.

Yup I had the same exact issue and in the end the cooler was shot too so they suggested that I just bypass the cooler which they did and it has been fine for 2 years now .