06 Tb 4.2 103,000 miles. Just started noticing it is very hard to turn right at real low speeds <10mph. At normal drive speeds it is somewhat stiffer than a left turn but not bad. Left turns are still smooth and easy at any speed. The PS fluid is probably original and reading posts in here I decided I will change fluid but if anyone after reading the problem statement listed above thinks the pump is bad or knows of some other issue that causes this, let me know. I'd appreciate all comments.
Power Steering hard right turn
- Thread starter B33p3r
- Start date
Welcome! A damaged or deteriorating rack would be my first guess. Internal valves or seals. Much more expensive repair.
Any other maintenance history?
At 100K, you're due for a LOT of additional fluid maintenance and plugs. Just a reminder to stay on top of them, especially (if you're 4WD) the transfer case fluid that's due every 50K.
Any other maintenance history?
At 100K, you're due for a LOT of additional fluid maintenance and plugs. Just a reminder to stay on top of them, especially (if you're 4WD) the transfer case fluid that's due every 50K.
Most maintenance is up to date. Just had tranny service performed at 100,000. Oil changes like clock work, I still have to get the differentials. Plugs were done at 90,000. So I'm pretty much up to date except for....Power steering. I'll schedule it to get the steering checked. I'm not up for replacing a rack. Better for me to have the pros check it out. Thanks for the advice!
6716
Member
- Jul 24, 2012
- 822
Here's the quick power steering 101.
The pump is powered by the main belt, and it constantly pushes fluid under pressure towards the steering rack. When the wheels are pointed straight, there is equal hydraulic pressure to both the left and right side of the steering rack. When you turn the wheel to the right, the valves change position, one opening a little more and one closing a little more, so that more fluid pressure presses against the LEFT side outer seal and pushing the left tie rod out. Since the tie rods are behind the center of the steering knuckle, this turns the wheels to the right.
If your outer seal(s) are shot, the rubber boot(s) will eventually separate/blow out due to the pressure of the fluid. You will start to notice fluid loss either from seeing it on the ground, or hear it as cavitation or whining from the pump.
If the inner seal(s) are shot, I would think ... Though I don't know ... the difficulty steering would be equal.
In my case, I noticed the boot separated on the right side before I noted any other symptom.
You may have a stuck valve, or other blockage, I suppose, it might be gunk built up in older fluid. I had a blown right outer seal, and as long as I had fluid in the system, there was no difference in ease of steering to the left or right.
The problem is that you can't see the valves working or not without pulling the gear. If you did pull the gear, you could rotate the shaft and see if there was a problem there. But then, at that point, you may as well put in a new rack.
So you can have it looked at, but outside of a blown-out boot, I don't know that it is possible to determine conclusively what the issue is from a basic visual inspection. The system is entirely mechanical, and there's no sensor reporting or electrical feedback you can get from a scan tool.
Probably not the pump. Doesn't sound yet like outer seals. Try new fluid, and if that doesn't do the trick shop for a rack replacement (DIY is a PITA but doable) and drive it as long as you can stand it.
The pump is powered by the main belt, and it constantly pushes fluid under pressure towards the steering rack. When the wheels are pointed straight, there is equal hydraulic pressure to both the left and right side of the steering rack. When you turn the wheel to the right, the valves change position, one opening a little more and one closing a little more, so that more fluid pressure presses against the LEFT side outer seal and pushing the left tie rod out. Since the tie rods are behind the center of the steering knuckle, this turns the wheels to the right.
If your outer seal(s) are shot, the rubber boot(s) will eventually separate/blow out due to the pressure of the fluid. You will start to notice fluid loss either from seeing it on the ground, or hear it as cavitation or whining from the pump.
If the inner seal(s) are shot, I would think ... Though I don't know ... the difficulty steering would be equal.
In my case, I noticed the boot separated on the right side before I noted any other symptom.
You may have a stuck valve, or other blockage, I suppose, it might be gunk built up in older fluid. I had a blown right outer seal, and as long as I had fluid in the system, there was no difference in ease of steering to the left or right.
The problem is that you can't see the valves working or not without pulling the gear. If you did pull the gear, you could rotate the shaft and see if there was a problem there. But then, at that point, you may as well put in a new rack.
So you can have it looked at, but outside of a blown-out boot, I don't know that it is possible to determine conclusively what the issue is from a basic visual inspection. The system is entirely mechanical, and there's no sensor reporting or electrical feedback you can get from a scan tool.
Probably not the pump. Doesn't sound yet like outer seals. Try new fluid, and if that doesn't do the trick shop for a rack replacement (DIY is a PITA but doable) and drive it as long as you can stand it.
95chevyZ71
Member
- Jun 22, 2014
- 18
You probably have a problem with your spool valve inside the rack. Time for a new rack if the flush doesn't help. Try adding a bottle of lucas as well.
Thanks alot for the lesson and advice. Changing the fluid seems to be the best starting point before pumping money into a new rack so that's what I'll do first. I may try to tackle the rack changeout on my own if it needs it? I'll just do it on a week I'm on vacation (3 weeks) in case I get in trouble. That way I won't NEED the vehivle for a few days. Disconect hydraulics,tie rods, and mounts. Remove rack and reverse for installation? Any surprises I may run into?
Again thanks for the info!
Again thanks for the info!
There are seals on the spool valve inside the rack. They are square cut and seal the valve ports from one another.
If everything else is correct (no binding, pump good, etc.) it seems one of them is leaking past the other (there are 4 IIRC). Once in a great while they will actually wear the aluminum part of the rack and leak internally that way. Sometimes, if they're worn, the steering will 'jerk', mostly when cold.
For the price of a rebuilt rack, go that way.
If you've got a big set of balls, remove the rack, make a mark so the spool valve goes back in the same spot, remove the snap ring, pull the valve out (it twists out) make another mark so you know where to start to put it back in. Don't move anything or the steering wheel will never be straight again.
If everything else is correct (no binding, pump good, etc.) it seems one of them is leaking past the other (there are 4 IIRC). Once in a great while they will actually wear the aluminum part of the rack and leak internally that way. Sometimes, if they're worn, the steering will 'jerk', mostly when cold.
For the price of a rebuilt rack, go that way.
If you've got a big set of balls, remove the rack, make a mark so the spool valve goes back in the same spot, remove the snap ring, pull the valve out (it twists out) make another mark so you know where to start to put it back in. Don't move anything or the steering wheel will never be straight again.
6716
Member
- Jul 24, 2012
- 822
Followup...... Sucked the resoirvoir dry of old fluid. It was pretty ugly. filled with a bottle of Lucas steering fluid. Now the right turn is pretty much the same but often feels a little better and sometimes it turns like nothing is wrong. Maybe the Lucas is freeing it up? Gonna repeat the fluid change again this weekend with another bottle of Lucas and see what happens.
6716
Member
- Jul 24, 2012
- 822
Depending on how aggressive you want to get, there is a power steering fluid cooler on the bottom of the radiator. You can disconnect the lines there, and then fire up the truck to run the pump, and pump out your fluid.
Downsides are the mess if you are not set up well to catch the fluid, and the fact that the ps cooler has been reported to be prone to rust, so it might not go back together as easily as it came apart.
The pump will growl at you, as well, but you shouldn't do any damage to it in the flush process.
Downsides are the mess if you are not set up well to catch the fluid, and the fact that the ps cooler has been reported to be prone to rust, so it might not go back together as easily as it came apart.
The pump will growl at you, as well, but you shouldn't do any damage to it in the flush process.
Planned on emptying the resoirvoir at least one more time. More if necessary. I'll watch the color of fluid to determine when its all replaced. Rather not touch the cooler lines if I don't need to. I know my luck...none of it is good!
dla442
Member
I had a bad rack in a car before and new fluid helped but eventually the rack needed replacement. Symptoms, turning to one side significantly harder than the other. It's not hard work to replace the steering rack/gear on a TB. Make sure pump is flushed when doing it
dla442
Member
What I did for ps fluid change is jack up front of TB so wheels off the ground. Disconnect the rubber hose from bottom of radiator. Get a nice long hose with a fitting to connect to radiator nipple so it can drain into a pan. Turn wheel left to right twice. Fill the res and repeats until fluid is clear.
No Luck. Getting harder to turn right as the days pass. Stopped by to see local mechanic. Going in next week for new rack. Not something I want to dive into with limited time. I appreciate all the incite and wisdom in the replies though. Thank you!
I've lived with this problem for some time now. I had what was once a very trustworthy mechanic replace the rack once I got from NAPA. got the same problem shortly after that $500 fix, and was told it was a bad rack. so I paid another $500 to replace that one which shortly went back again. called the mechanic to have some new guy tell me they did everything right, when he wasn't even working there when either repair was done. so I don't use that mechanic any more but don't know what the problem is. firestone wanted to charge $500 to change the lines and replace the cooler but couldn't tell me for sure if that's the problem so I never got it done.
I had the rack replaced by local mech. Drivers outer tie rod also replaced. All is now good! Thanks for the advice and support!