Power Steering Fluid... wth!

[budwich]

well since I was playing around in the "front end" with the replacement of the alternator, I thought perhaps I would continue trying to track down the "noise" up there. Some of the noise may have been contributed by the old alternator and possibly the idle pulley (also replaced). Noise is lessened but still not good. While having the belt off, ran the engine a bit and things seemed "more quiet", so somethings up there. Anyways, I was going to drain some tranny fluid and "refresh" as trailer hauling (at peak load capacity) is probably a good "life shortener"...
Anyways, decided to look at the power steering level. Looked good cold. No change in noise with movement of steering, steering effort seems fine. Anyways, my eyes don't look so good any more ... so I decided to draw out a sample of the fluid with a thought of a "refresh"... I know a flush is the right way, but that's whole new "effort" and likely new story as playing with any of the lines will likely result in replacement as the 200kkm haven't necessarily been kind to a few things in terms of rust... :-(

Anyways, I was surprised at the "draw out"... YIKES!!!! Now I am likely into it... :-(
The "stuff" doesn't look like any power steering fluid that I have ever seen. I don't think its tranny fluid (I know I have never put any in... clear power steering fluid for topping once).
I can't say that I was overly observant at the dip stick "coloring" at the time of checks... more with where the "wet mark" was as opposed to color.

So here I sit. I am thinking I will draw out as much fluid as I can, replace with new one, do some wheel turning (off the ground) and do another "draw and replace" for now. I guess my question is: am I actually doing anything for the system or is it beyond "reproach". :-(

Other suggestions or comments on what's going on... :-(

 

[Mooseman]

It just looks old. Probably nothing wrong so it's just due for a flush. Your method will work but will take longer and more fluid to get it to the same pristine colour as new fluid. As long as you do it, that's what counts.

 

[mrrsm]

The main differences between ATF and PSF are that ATF is much more Flammable via its higher VOC level than the better performing PSF...a No-No in the Engine Nacelle where an accelerated fire could occur while the engine is pumping out the fluid through a leaking pressurized steering line. Also, PSF is formulated to work its magic of moving the hydraulic cylinder back and forth under much higher pressures than the Transmission will ever encounter.

If you wanted better Peace of Mind... Crack the PS line connection most easily accessed under the engine with ignition off and with the vehicle elevated on Jack Stands. Then with a large enough collection pan underneath ...slowly turn the Steering Wheel from "Lock To Lock" to vacate both the Reservoir and PS Lines of any Old Residual PSF. After that ...while the line is still open down there... Re-Fill the Reservoir with New PSF and repeat these procedures until all that Old Gunky Mung Fluid gets flushed out of the entire system.

After doing that, just tighten the PS Line Fitting and fill the Reservoir about 3/4 Full and with the engine idling ...repeat the actions of turning the steering wheel 'Lock to Lock' until all of the Air is purged from the lines and SLOWLY top off the the PSF to the HOT Level. Done!

 

[budwich]

its the "cracking of the lines" that has got me scared. They don't look to be in great shape and I don't really want to get into "full line" replacement at this time. I see from search the potentially the low pressure line MIGHT be "workable" at the pump that one post suggested.
Thanks overall for the comments as I have never ever played in this area on any vehicle beyond the "top up" type effort.

 

[mrrsm]

This video is from one our very own GMTN Members that should show the procedures quite well:

 

[budwich]

disconnect of any lines below the engine area (toward the cooler) is going to happen as they are all "crimped style" even on the low pressure ones.

trying to disconnect the low pressure line is difficult as the hose clamp has limited access ... probably have to unbolt the pump and turn a bit. :-(

At this point, I am heading toward the "turn and suck, then fill, then repeat"... hopefully without introducing to much air.

 

[Mooseman]

Suck and fill shouldn't introduce any air. Granted this method is not the best but is better than nothing and may be more within a person's comfort level.

 

[budwich]

I demounted the steering pump so I could get better access to the low pressure line. After a bit of "swearing / hand wringing", I got the hose / clamp off and connected up a set of hose to do the flush. Need to get some fluid as I only had 1 quart on hand. It appears "easy" once you get access to things.... great maintenance design... oh wait, the customer pays gm an hourly rate, why would we want to facilitate that effort, lets keep the focus on the "great" initial build design .... sorry, I always have so much fun getting thru these work efforts especially in the cold.

 

[dkvasnicka]

The fluid looks like a "normal" old fluid. Mine looked similar.
Is your rig really so rusty that you were afraid to disconnect the line from the PSF cooler and go the steering-wheel-pumping route? https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/transmission-fluid-flush-power-steering-fluid-flush.12641
Taking out the PS pump seems like a major pain in the ass compared to that.

 

[budwich]

Yes.... as in rusty... I think it saw alot of hwy 401 use and very little washing... :-(

Anyways, taking off the bolts for the power steering isn't that bad (done it for the cam sensor replacement). Once, the power steering was loose, it can be turned enough to get better access to the lower pressure clamp / line. After that, it was relatively easy to flush out the fluid with a helper turning the wheels while I maintained a good level in the tank.

As aside, went to take the old fluid (along with tranny fluid) to the local canadian tire. :-( "oh we don't take it any more as someone passed off pcb oil on them / canadiantire and that resulted in BIG trouble and policy change" ... so now everyone gets to make a drive to the waste dump or wait for the "saturday special dump day" during the year or find another outlet that accepts it (hopefully there are some close by me).

 

[mrrsm]

Poly-Chlorinated-Bi-Phenols... Huh? How is that even possible?... The only things that are filled with carcinogenic PCBs anymore (if it is even allowed now) are those Old Electric Industrial Telephone Pole Transformers and Oil Bath Capacitors ... when it was used as a Fire Retardant and an Insulator. Hmmm ...Wonder whats up in the GWN with that stuff... No EPA control type system there?

 

[budwich]

I think the "technique" used by "some people" is that it costs money to get rid of some those "bad things" BUT you can just "fill a few jugs" with them and drop them off at the local CT store, no questions asked (little attention paid... not that they would be able tell otherwise).... and then you get to keep the copper for yourself...wink, wink Hence, the policy change to "NONE". Maybe its all "smoke" and this CT just doesn't want to be bothered. I will try a close-by oil change shop which seems to be on the list of return retailers / service and see what happens.

 

[Mooseman]

I got told at my Crappy Tire too but just that don't do it anymore, no excuse. There are a couple of other places, including Mr.Lube. Which reminds me, I have a bunch to drop off again.

Check your city website for disposal sites.