Polarity on Climate Control Bulbs 2006 LS

benjaminblazer

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Mar 25, 2024
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michigan
Curious about how to figure out the polarity for climate control bulbs. Or curious if someone already knows them, thanksđź‘Ť
I have the one that’s got a lot more going on in the circuit board. IMG_0047.jpegIMG_0065.pngIMG_0065.png
 

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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
26,135
Ottawa, ON
There were a bunch of drawings on TV that had the polarities of all modules and switches. Tried to find them and I think they have since been deleted by Photobucket.

Check out our LED Mod thread. The first page has the HVAC module.

 

benjaminblazer

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Mar 25, 2024
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michigan
There were a bunch of drawings on TV that had the polarities of all modules and switches. Tried to find them and I think they have since been deleted by Photobucket.

Check out our LED Mod thread. The first page has the HVAC module.

Yeah all i see is this. People say to check resistors for polarity however you can place resistors for these bulbs on either because it’s a series circuit.
IMG_0068.jpeg
 

TJBaker57

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People say to check resistors for polarity however you can place resistors for these bulbs on either because it’s a series circuit.

Not sure about exactly how the series works. This is what I have.

Red dots are positive.
Red + green is full + voltage input
Red + white is half + voltage input


20241221_100436~2.jpg


I will update in a short bit to add the 'grounds'
 

TJBaker57

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Updated image. Added "grounds" as black dots.

HOWEVER!! None of these "grounds" are either true zero volts, NOR are they equal.

Same goes for the unmarked terminals which measure varying positive voltages approximately half of the input + voltage.


I based these images on a module where I powered the lighting circuits with approximately 6.4 volts then measured voltages at each bulb.

20241221_100436~3.jpg
 

benjaminblazer

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Mar 25, 2024
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michigan
Updated image. Added "grounds" as black dots.

HOWEVER!! None of these "grounds" are either true zero volts, NOR are they equal.

Same goes for the unmarked terminals which measure varying positive voltages approximately half of the input + voltage.


I based these images on a module where I powered the lighting circuits with approximately 6.4 volts then measured voltages at each bulb.

View attachment 115457
so this is actually the wrong circuit board, i tried this configuration and no luck. there’s actually two different boards with the same front: IMG_0065.png
You can see this is the board i’m talking about, (lot more going on in the green): IMG_0068.jpeg
 

TJBaker57

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20241221_115432~2.jpg

@benjaminblazer


How about this?

Where I denote "series pair" this means input + voltage comes to the bulb with the red/green dots, exits that bulb and the enters the bulb with the red/white dots, exits that bulb to ground. One complete circuit with 2 bulbs.

There are three such paired sets of bulbs.

At a guess, I would say only one led resistor is needed for each pair of bulbs.
 
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benjaminblazer

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Mar 25, 2024
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michigan
View attachment 115460

@benjaminblazer


How about this?

Where I denote "series pair" this means input + voltage comes to the bulb with the red/green dots, exits that bulb and the enters the bulb with the red/white dots, exits that bulb to ground. One complete circuit with 2 bulbs.

There are three such paired sets of bulbs.

At a guess, I would say only one led resistor is needed for each pair of bulbs.
The leds i got im pretty sure have resistors build in, i did my dash and had no issues once i match up polarity. However thanks a lot looks very similar if not the same board i have will try this and let you know! Thanks
 

TJBaker57

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Huh, that’s odd, must of read something wrong. Does the polarity stay the same then?


Well yes, the polarity does not change regardless of series looped or not.

And for this HVAC module, knowing that they are installed in series pairs, I would look for LEDs intended for 6 volt power.

With 2 12 volt LEDs in a series each will only receive 6 volts. Not sure that will work.

In your shoes I would hook up a pair of your LEDs in series and give it 12 volts and see if it even works before going through the trouble of installing them.
 

benjaminblazer

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Mar 25, 2024
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michigan
Well yes, the polarity does not change regardless of series looped or not.

And for this HVAC module, knowing that they are installed in series pairs, I would look for LEDs intended for 6 volt power.

With 2 12 volt LEDs in a series each will only receive 6 volts. Not sure that will work.

In your shoes I would hook up a pair of your LEDs in series and give it 12 volts and see if it even works before going through the trouble of installing them.
Gotcha, using the same ones as my 4wd, rear windshield, and front dash that all work so if they are the same 6 volt inputs i should be good. company also told me will work for climate control. But again thanks for all your helpđź‘Ť
 

benjaminblazer

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Mar 25, 2024
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michigan
Well yes, the polarity does not change regardless of series looped or not.

And for this HVAC module, knowing that they are installed in series pairs, I would look for LEDs intended for 6 volt power.

With 2 12 volt LEDs in a series each will only receive 6 volts. Not sure that will work.

In your shoes I would hook up a pair of your LEDs in series and give it 12 volts and see if it even works before going through the trouble of installing them.
Thanks for all your help, look amazing!
Also does anyone know if the headlight and indoor light control panel has lighting? mine has never lit up since i got the car never thought to try.

IMG_0079.png

IMG_0080.png
 
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Blckshdw

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Nov 20, 2011
10,771
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Thanks for all your help, look amazing!
Also does anyone know if the headlight and indoor light control panel has lighting? mine has never lit up since i got the car never thought to try.

Nicely done! Those look good. Thinking back, I remember there being some issues with the HVAC polarities, way back when I posted all that stuff. I ended up taking down the polarity map I made, because guys were running into issues with their boards not matching mine. :bonk:

I know there are a few different versions of the headlight switch module, I've had 2 of them, with different lighting availability. My original one had the dial lit up, the fog light button, and dome light override. Another one added lighting for the dimmer switch, where my original one did not.

I know there are some that don't have a fog light button, but I can't remember the lighting options on that one. :undecided:

Edit: It's an older pic, but this is how mine looks

20170219_130733.jpg
 
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benjaminblazer

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Mar 25, 2024
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michigan
Nicely done! Those look good. Thinking back, I remember there being some issues with the HVAC polarities, way back when I posted all that stuff. I ended up taking down the polarity map I made, because guys were running into issues with their boards not matching mine. :bonk:

I know there are a few different versions of the headlight switch module, I've had 2 of them, with different lighting availability. My original one had the dial lit up, the fog light button, and dome light override. Another one added lighting for the dimmer switch, where my original one did not.

I know there are some that don't have a fog light button, but I can't remember the lighting options on that one. :undecided:
Gotcha, imma rip it apart and probably check tomorrow anyway🤷‍♂️ We shall see, but yeah i knew someone on here could help!
 
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TJBaker57

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Here is a 2002 model year with front fogs but no rear fogs.

The 2002 model year headlamp switch cannot be turned counterclockwise beyond the position shown. DRL defeat is achieved by pressing the dome lamp button 4 times in quick succession.

Red dots positive.

3 backighting incandescent lamps. Wired in parallel. (not series loop)

2 LED indicator lights with resistors.

20241221_200439.jpg

20241221_195030~2.jpg
 

benjaminblazer

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Mar 25, 2024
89
michigan
Here is a 2002 model year with front fogs but no rear fogs.

The 2002 model year headlamp switch cannot be turned counterclockwise beyond the position shown. DRL defeat is achieved by pressing the dome lamp button 4 times in quick succession.

Red dots positive.

3 backighting incandescent lamps. Wired in parallel. (not series loop)

2 LED indicator lights with resistors.

View attachment 115467

View attachment 115468
thanks man!
 

benjaminblazer

Original poster
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Mar 25, 2024
89
michigan
Anyone on here know if the green turn signal film is replaceable? I replaced the bulbs and they didn’t work because of some circuit issue, but there’s a green film in front of them i’m pretty sure, could be wrong but don’t know how else they’d be green. Also i’d the odometer light changeable?
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,771
Tampa Bay Area, FL
It would be a LOT of work, you'd need to cut out the turn signal section with razor blade, and get some red film in it's place. You may be able to lift the whole face off the cluster, sandwich a different film between the face and the plastic.... I know they used to sell cluster overlays, so you could get different colors, like silver. The 05's came with white faces, I didn't realize this until people asked me how I did that mod :laugh:

I don't think the odometer comes in any different colors, that I know of. So you're kinda SOL there. I don't know of another color you could mix with green, to get red. In my case, I was able to use magenta film on those displays to change them from green to blue. Worked on the temp display in the mirror too.
 

benjaminblazer

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Mar 25, 2024
89
michigan
It would be a LOT of work, you'd need to cut out the turn signal section with razor blade, and get some red film in it's place. You may be able to lift the whole face off the cluster, sandwich a different film between the face and the plastic.... I know they used to sell cluster overlays, so you could get different colors, like silver. The 05's came with white faces, I didn't realize this until people asked me how I did that mod :laugh:

I don't think the odometer comes in any different colors, that I know of. So you're kinda SOL there. I don't know of another color you could mix with green, to get red. In my case, I was able to use magenta film on those displays to change them from green to blue. Worked on the temp display in the mirror too.
I gotchu man thanks for lettin me know? it’s not that big of a deal tbh but i was curious, next job is the window control panel bulbs!
 

jerflash

Member
Aug 12, 2020
37
NYC
Wow i have to admit i would never take the time to do this but it is cool looking
 
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TJBaker57

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I’m pretty familiar with soldering so it wasn’t hard at all🤷‍♂️ They make kits too that gives you everything you need for like 20 bucks, then the leds were like $10


I find that sometimes the hardest part is getting the item open without breaking something!! I like having junkyard parts around to learn on.

I broke the first CJ3 HVAC module I tried to get open. Ripped the sliders right off the board trying to get the knobs off.

Now I soften the knobs with a heat gun.
 
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benjaminblazer

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Mar 25, 2024
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I find that sometimes the hardest part is getting the item open without breaking something!! I like having junkyard parts around to learn on.

I broke the first CJ3 HVAC module I tried to get open. Ripped the sliders right off the board trying to get the knobs off.

Now I soften the knobs with a heat gun.
Yep watched a video and they said use a heat gun and hold the board down with an allen key, worked like a charm. The dashboard meters tho… i used a fork and flew one across the room, one broke so i glued it back together but i think imma get a new set of white ones👍
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,771
Tampa Bay Area, FL
I gotchu man thanks for lettin me know? it’s not that big of a deal tbh but i was curious, next job is the window control panel bulbs!

Something to prepare for, the window switches indirectly lit. Driver's side has 2 bulbs, passenger side has 1. There's a clear acrylic piece with holes for the bulbs to pass through. The light emitted from the sides, refracts through the acrylic and back-lights the switches.

20150724_181913.jpg

When I did mine, I drilled 5mm holes in each spot to act as guides (as well as give me room for the LEDs to sit. I've redone mine a couple of times, my recommendation is to use a small gauge, solid strand wire, so you can bend it and have it stay where you want.

The issue I ran into with multi stranded wires, is that it moves ever so slightly when you're putting the modules back together and doesn't stay where I needed it to. Those gray plastic plungers that connect the switches to the contact points on a rubber pad that sits on top of the circuit board will sometimes catch the wire, and the buttons don't press correctly. Sometimes I'd lose the auto down function for the front windows, or not be able to activate a function completely, and have to take it apart again to try and adjust it. Major pain... :hissyfit:

These are the polarity assignment pics that I took back then... :coffee:

Polarity-LSDDM.jpg Polarity-LSPDM.jpg
 
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jerflash

Member
Aug 12, 2020
37
NYC
I’m pretty familiar with soldering so it wasn’t hard at all🤷‍♂️ They make kits too that gives you everything you need for like 20 bucks, then the leds were like $10
Well I grew up soldering and working on TVs for my grandfathers company. I just mean I dont think i could devote the time to this myself... still alot ot work regardless!

Impressive
 
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