I just had to...
Got this code a couple months ago. Did the usual, dumped a boatload of water out of the hoses. Checked the plug at the pump and was getting almost 14v to it verifying the relay was good (it was highly corroded/green and I cleaned it even though it was "good"). Disconnected the hose at the check valve and got a ricer type buzz out of it.
It took about a week before I got back to the problem and I again dumped a ton of water out of both tubes to the air pump. Then I disconnected the pump via the three bolts in the cross member area and spewed more water out of the pump. I hooked up the pins to a couple of connectors with a stretch of wire and tested the pump on the battery... The pump damn near jumped off the battery cover and spewed more water... so I assume it and the relay is good.
I then disconnected the hose to the check valve, started the truck and got the familiar ricer buzz and it never went away, so I ass u me it's a stuck open valve. I disconnect the valve with a 13mm deep socket on the front bolt and then a 10 mm nut to release the trans dipstick tube... you still need the 13mm to release the back bolt after pulling away the trans dipstick tool (I used a 1/4" drive wrench). I opened it up via the three screws on the check valve and the internal plate with three holes, that's covered by two plates and has two screws... it didn't come out easily. I tried to unscrew the two screws on the internal plate and they sheared off and I was left with a mess. I realized the plate with three holes would pull out after I broke off the two screws.
At this point I figured the potential to induce particles into the engine without the two shields/plates would be bad so I capped it off and ordered the check valve through rockauto. I found it cheaper at partsgeek but I'd never heard of them before and the results turned up by google made them seem sketchy.
So here I am waiting for the part, should be here Wed. I'll include pics in a couple days.
If the check valve doesn't clear it I assume it's the O2 even though my scan gauge says it reads normal, we'll see what happens.
for reference here is a lot of helpful info I read on diagnosing this repair. it is copy and pasted from a previous thread.
[Material deleted until I can verify we have permission to repost it. Reminder to everyone - you may ONLY post material YOU wrote or you can prove you have the permission of the author to repost. Copying wholesale from this or ANY OTHER SITE is a copyright violation we cannot be accused of committing. Especially now. - The Roadie.]
Got this code a couple months ago. Did the usual, dumped a boatload of water out of the hoses. Checked the plug at the pump and was getting almost 14v to it verifying the relay was good (it was highly corroded/green and I cleaned it even though it was "good"). Disconnected the hose at the check valve and got a ricer type buzz out of it.
It took about a week before I got back to the problem and I again dumped a ton of water out of both tubes to the air pump. Then I disconnected the pump via the three bolts in the cross member area and spewed more water out of the pump. I hooked up the pins to a couple of connectors with a stretch of wire and tested the pump on the battery... The pump damn near jumped off the battery cover and spewed more water... so I assume it and the relay is good.
I then disconnected the hose to the check valve, started the truck and got the familiar ricer buzz and it never went away, so I ass u me it's a stuck open valve. I disconnect the valve with a 13mm deep socket on the front bolt and then a 10 mm nut to release the trans dipstick tube... you still need the 13mm to release the back bolt after pulling away the trans dipstick tool (I used a 1/4" drive wrench). I opened it up via the three screws on the check valve and the internal plate with three holes, that's covered by two plates and has two screws... it didn't come out easily. I tried to unscrew the two screws on the internal plate and they sheared off and I was left with a mess. I realized the plate with three holes would pull out after I broke off the two screws.
At this point I figured the potential to induce particles into the engine without the two shields/plates would be bad so I capped it off and ordered the check valve through rockauto. I found it cheaper at partsgeek but I'd never heard of them before and the results turned up by google made them seem sketchy.
So here I am waiting for the part, should be here Wed. I'll include pics in a couple days.
If the check valve doesn't clear it I assume it's the O2 even though my scan gauge says it reads normal, we'll see what happens.
for reference here is a lot of helpful info I read on diagnosing this repair. it is copy and pasted from a previous thread.
[Material deleted until I can verify we have permission to repost it. Reminder to everyone - you may ONLY post material YOU wrote or you can prove you have the permission of the author to repost. Copying wholesale from this or ANY OTHER SITE is a copyright violation we cannot be accused of committing. Especially now. - The Roadie.]