Outer tie rod end popped off

02trailblazerLS

Original poster
Member
Mar 3, 2020
125
windsor
So we are in contact with the BAR to report the situation so hopefully i can get some compensation on this. As of right now, I Talked to the mechanic that did my lift kit today, his names Mike. I explained to him everything that happened and he was very helpful and we made a gameplan to get everything dealt with. 👍 Man I really shoulda just gone back to that mechanic in the first place, i trust them 100%. They done me and my family right every time. There a shop that does lots of custom work, they build these crazy trophy trucks and crawlers, as well as lifted trucks and street car setups, but the only downside with that shop is they are really busy most of the time so often times u cant get an appointment in as soon as youd like. As far as the game plan goes, We already verified that i do need one knuckle and a couple tie rods, so were gettin those ordered tmrw. Im bringin the truck Mikes shop tmrw cuz they wanna see wats goin on and what those Midas guys did. The guy that did my lift, Mike, told me that he called Midas and talked to them about how they messed up on my truck and basically scammed me and how there denying it all. He said that they were not budging, they were not addmitting that its their fault and they were pretty much bein assholes to Mike. He then recommended that i contact the BAR to create a case on this. So thats where im at on this situation. Aside from that, Mike did say that they are able to machine the rack to make it a 16 mm thread so that we can fit 16 mm inner and outer tie rods on the 14mm rack. Or we can stick with 14mm inners n outers. What do u guys think bout that? Is it Worth doing? Im thinkin i should i just stick with the 14 mm size so far, but a 16mm proforged inner paired with 16mm mevotech outers do seem like a way better setup to me. Just not sure if its worth it.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,350
Ottawa, ON
If the inners are still good, I'd just throw in some 14mm and be done.

Checked a little further and the rack does have to be machined for the 16mm inners.

And checking even further, it's also quite possible that the knuckle also changed.

Only way to know for sure would be to check the two tie rods side-by-side for the stud size. Also maybe, just maybe, there is a mismatch of parts here. I'm thinking that the rack from a 14mm truck was put in a 16mm truck along with the smaller 14mm outer tie rods that were too small for the 16mm knuckles. Maybe they're not wallowed but the bigger 16mm version.
 
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northcreek

Member
Jan 15, 2012
3,322
WNY
Only way to know for sure would be to check the two tie rods side-by-side for the stud size. Also maybe, just maybe, there is a mismatch of parts here. I'm thinking that the rack from a 14mm truck was put in a 16mm truck along with the smaller 14mm outer tie rods that were too small for the 16mm knuckles. Maybe they're not wallowed but the bigger 16mm version.
Pretty sure the 14/16 mm thread thing does not change the taper size in the knuckles where the wallow has occurred.The knuckles are unchanged from 02-09.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,350
Ottawa, ON
Looked at that old post from TV. However, checking in online microfiche, there is only one part number for each side. Probably the guy was looking at the left and right numbers.

According to the catalog, the steering knuckle also has a first and second design for 2002, so the hole for the tie-rod may be smaller there, too. Hopefully I have the second design, my TB was built in 3/02.
 
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northcreek

Member
Jan 15, 2012
3,322
WNY
Looked at that old post from TV. However, checking in online microfiche, there is only one part number for each side. Probably the guy was looking at the left and right numbers.
This is an old "roadie" post at the other site and he also has thoughts about the hole (taper) in the early knuckles, though I can't find anything definitive about it.

{roadie} OK, I think I have it. Looking at used ones on Ebay (under $100 shipped), it looks like it's the outer tie rod end issue. In '02, some early ones, perhaps SWB, had the relatively wimpy 14mm threaded tie rod ends. Later ones from 03 on, and perhaps all LWB, had 16mm threads. I thought the difference was only in the place where the outer tie rod end threaded into the inner tie rod end. Turns out the entire outer tie rod end is beefier, and I bet that changes the mounting hole in the steering knuckle.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,350
Ottawa, ON
So just a guess on his part. I say it's the same taper.
 
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northcreek

Member
Jan 15, 2012
3,322
WNY
Yeah, just wonder why the mid year change on the 02 knuckle,as you mentioned. Don't want to add any more confusion to @02trailblazerLS and his problems so I'll put this in the unsolved mystery file.:Zzzz:
 

02trailblazerLS

Original poster
Member
Mar 3, 2020
125
windsor
Hey guys just wanted to say thank you all for your help! Unfortunately i was not able to get compensation from the shop that screwed the truck up, were still trying but seems like it will be a struggle. As far as the fix goes, Were going to change racks to the 16mm rack, get 16mm inners and outers from mevotech or proforged, as well as two 16 mm knuckles. And she should be good to go after that. What do u guys think?
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,350
Ottawa, ON
If you have to replace your knuckles, then you don't have a choice as the 14mm knuckles would be harder to find. A shame to do this if your rack is still good. And yes, the taper in the knuckle changed:


Just confirmed what LMMJ said - the tie rod connection to the knuckle changed, so if you have a 14mm tie rod end you have a different knockle than the 16mm tie rod end folks.

However, before condemning the rack, ask the parts store counter guy to bring out a 14mm and 16mm inner tie-rod and see if the threads on the rack end are the same. If so, you're golden and you only need to replace the inners instead of the whole rack. As best as I can tell, looking at the descriptions for the Moog inners, they say that they are the same.

14mm:

16mm:

Both say:
End 2 GenderMale
End 2 Thread Diameter18.0mm
End 2 Thread Pitch1.5mm

So to do this, look like you can keep your rack. Replace the inners, outers and knuckles.
 

02trailblazerLS

Original poster
Member
Mar 3, 2020
125
windsor
This is an old "roadie" post at the other site and he also has thoughts about the hole (taper) in the early knuckles, though I can't find anything definitive about it.

{roadie} OK, I think I have it. Looking at used ones on Ebay (under $100 shipped), it looks like it's the outer tie rod end issue. In '02, some early ones, perhaps SWB, had the relatively wimpy 14mm threaded tie rod ends. Later ones from 03 on, and perhaps all LWB, had 16mm threads. I thought the difference was only in the place where the outer tie rod end threaded into the inner tie rod end. Turns out the entire outer tie rod end is beefier, and I bet that changes the mounting hole in the steering knuckle.
If you have to replace your knuckles, then you don't have a choice as the 14mm knuckles would be harder to find. A shame to do this if your rack is still good. And yes, the taper in the knuckle changed:




However, before condemning the rack, ask the parts store counter guy to bring out a 14mm and 16mm inner tie-rod and see if the threads on the rack end are the same. If so, you're golden and you only need to replace the inners instead of the whole rack. As best as I can tell, looking at the descriptions for the Moog inners, they say that they are the same.

14mm:

16mm:

Both say:


So to do this, look like you can keep your rack. Replace the inners, outers and knuckles.
Interesting, thatd be great if thats the case! Im just goin based off what the mechanic told me, the truck was with them for the past week and they called me yesterday morning and said its best to just replace the rack as well as the knuckles n tie rods, but even they could be wrong so im gonna run that information by them to make sure this all goes correctly. Thanks guys!
 
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gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
The rack isn't too hard to replace, reaching for the small bolt on the lines and the two main mounting bolts are really the only small challenge.

Given the age, and you would need another alignment if you changed the rack later, it's another $100 saved in the long run.
 

02trailblazerLS

Original poster
Member
Mar 3, 2020
125
windsor
I ended up buying new tie rods, used knuckles, and a remanufacted rack from cardone and it said in the directions that they recommend to replace power steering pressure and return hoses if their 5 years or older, 🧐 mines 19 yrs old so im sure they need replacing. It also says to replace the power steering reservoir, and install an inline power steering filter, What do you guys think, should i get those things as well? And if so, where would i get them?
 

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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,350
Ottawa, ON
If you're in the rust belt, yeah, it wouldn't be a bad idea to change them if they're rusty. They usually rust out inside the rubber isolator on top of the driver side shock tower. Easier to replace them with the rack out. The filter is to cover their warranty. They also have this same rrequirement for their pumps. If you flush the system completely before replacing the rack, you don't need it. AFAIK, there is no internal filter in the pump. They usually have a requirement to have a filter on the same receipt as the rack for the warranty. The OEM doesn't use a filter.

BTW, nobody here would recommend Cardumb. You would actually be better off putting in a used one (yeah, they're that bad). Talk to your mech for his experience with them.
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,056
Brighton, CO
Hes not lieing there.. I put a Cardone rack in my Aztek, it has leaked ever since...
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,350
Ottawa, ON
crap, its arriving monday and already only 45 mins away 😩 u guys think itll be that bad or will it last a few years?
Well, you're rolling the dice. If you return it, you're also likely to incur return shipping since it's not a problem on their part unless it does develop a problem under warranty. Just be sure to inspect it to be sure it's clean. Here's an example:

What about the BBB industries rack on rock auto? Is that one good?
I think ABC (Anything But Cardone) is good. However, I don't know BBB.
 

02trailblazerLS

Original poster
Member
Mar 3, 2020
125
windsor
Well, you're rolling the dice. If you return it, you're also likely to incur return shipping since it's not a problem on their part unless it does develop a problem under warranty. Just be sure to inspect it to be sure it's clean. Here's an example:


I think ABC (Anything But Cardone) is good. However, I don't know BBB.
I ended up just buying a brand new BBB industries rack ( it was that or a new cardone one). Once the cardone one gets here, im sending it back. Im hopeful the BBB one will be quality.
 

02trailblazerLS

Original poster
Member
Mar 3, 2020
125
windsor
So i finally got the truck back today! It was infact the knuckles, i decided i wanted to convert over to 16mm thread rack , inner n outers, and knuckles. So i got a brand new steering rack off rock auto, as well as the mevotech outer tie rods, and some knuckles off ebay. Everything looks and feels very solid now, the tie rods are way thicker and look alot stronger, overall im very happy with how it turned out and it feels great now. I think its finally dialed in 🤘 time to hit the trails soon.
 

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