Outer tie rod end popped off

[02trailblazerLS]

Hey guys, i just had my outer tie rod end pop off while driving earlier, luckily i was in a parking lot and going real slow. I was turning into a parking spot at rite-aid n as i was turning i then i felt something weird happen n halfway turning in to park, i heard a little cluncking it sounded pretty bad so i just stopped right away n turned it off n then got out n saw the tie rod hangin down totally disconnected. So i went into oreileys as it was really close to me n after showing them the problem they said that the other shop mustve not torqued the nut to spec and didnt use loctite n that caused the nut to back out n pop off. So when i got down to look at it, The tie rod isnt broken i dont think, but the bolt on top was gone. At oreileys i was aboe to get a replacement bolt and loctite, i got the tie rod back together somewhat n put two nuts, torqued the first one to spec and second almost to spec, and put blue loctite. I was able to get home after that but on the way home it has a really weird and loud flapping noise coming from the tie rod i believe. I have pictures of both sides and it looks like a ring of some sort is missing l, ill post pictures of both tie rods compared to each other. This sucks cuz i just got these tie rod ends put in about a month ago. Same shop that put my tires and wheels on. Same shop that claimed that i needed longer tie rod ends as well... But when i brought them the stock length, heavy duty outer tie rods from napa chassis parts, they installed them and never mentioned anything bout them being too short. 🧐🧐 When they gave me the truck back, they just said “ be careful offroad out there, dont bump it up stuff hard and dont turn to full lock n then try to go up stuff n you should be good.” But anyways, do you guys think that they didnt torque the nut down to spec and didnt use loctite either? On the left side thats fine still, i dont see any loctite on the bolt. Any feedback or hell regarding this would be great. Thanks guys
- Ben

 

[02trailblazerLS]

Help**, and this could have been so bad! If i was on the freeway or going fast n that tie rod disconnected, it would be horrible. So now this has me spooked a bit and now i want to get the strongest/best tie rod setup i can, even if that means it being custom made! Any of you guys have any recommendations? Lmk!

 

[northcreek]

Judging by the way that the boot is compressed and the amount of thread showing , the taper in the knuckles may be worn from being loose for a long time. If that is the case you will never be able to secure the ends properly.
Also there was a design change I believe in the TR ends but, I think that was on the large threads though.
Something like this might be a cheap but not desired fix if this is your case :

TeraFlex 600242 Tie Rod Large Taper Insert Sleeve | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for TeraFlex 600242 Tie Rod Large Taper Insert Sleeve at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

rover.ebay.com

 

[Matt]

All the TREs that I've bought have a castellated nut and a cotter pin. If it had been that type then you would never have had this happen. Having said that, look at the Mevotech TTX.

 

[Mooseman]

Would you happen to know the brand that the shop used? The vast majority use castle nuts with cotter pins. I've seen some cheap ones with lock nuts. I wouldn't trust those. Since the other one is also as compressed as the one that failed, I think these are poorly designed. That undercut portion just below the threads is especially concerning to me as that is the first time I've seen that and could be a weak point for catastrophic failure. And the boots shouldn't be that compressed. They're not even greasable.

I'd take it back to the shop and get them to fix it right with good quality parts. Hopefully the knuckle wasn't damaged when it got loose.

 

[TollKeeper]

I agree with @northcreek , They should not be that compressed. I dont have any recommendations thou. I just installed a greaseable set that I picked up from Detroit Axle. Have not had them long enough to say good or bad.

 

[02trailblazerLS]

Would you happen to know the brand that the shop used? The vast majority use castle nuts with cotter pins. I've seen some cheap ones with lock nuts. I wouldn't trust those. Since the other one is also as compressed as the one that failed, I think these are poorly designed. That undercut portion just below the threads is especially concerning to me as that is the first time I've seen that and could be a weak point for catastrophic failure. And the boots shouldn't be that compressed. They're not even greasable.

I'd take it back to the shop and get them to fix it right with good quality parts. Hopefully the knuckle wasn't damaged when it got loose.

Yes, i got the parts myself from napa auto parts, i bought the 120$ “ heavy duty “ napa chassis part tie rod ends. Best ones that i can find in a 14mm. I want to get the mevotech or any tie rods that have the castle nut with cotter pin, but i havent found any. Is there any way to do a 14 to 16mm conversion? mines a 2002 made june or july 2001.

 

[TollKeeper]

I can tell you that the Detroit Axle ones I got did NOT have castle nuts, but were NyLock nuts.

 

[02trailblazerLS]

All the TREs that I've bought have a castellated nut and a cotter pin. If it had been that type then you would never have had this happen. Having said that, look at the Mevotech TTX.

Yeah mine has the regular nut ☠️ Which seems like a dangerous setup to me. And i like the mevotech ttx but they only have em in 16m i believe

 

[02trailblazerLS]

I can tell you that the Detroit Axle ones I got did NOT have castle nuts, but were NyLock nuts.

Okay, mine are just like yours, im not sure how mine came off but i feel like the mechanic didnt torque the bolt all the way or somethin like that

 

[02trailblazerLS]

Judging by the way that the boot is compressed and the amount of thread showing , the taper in the knuckles may be worn from being loose for a long time. If that is the case you will never be able to secure the ends properly.
Also there was a design change I believe in the TR ends but, I think that was on the large threads though.
Something like this might be a cheap but not desired fix if this is your case :

TeraFlex 600242 Tie Rod Large Taper Insert Sleeve | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for TeraFlex 600242 Tie Rod Large Taper Insert Sleeve at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

rover.ebay.com

I hope thats not the case! Is there any way to check if the taper in the knuckle is okay?

 

[TollKeeper]

Okay, mine are just like yours, im not sure how mine came off but i feel like the mechanic didnt torque the bolt all the way or somethin like that

I dont mind the nylocks as long as there is some pressure holding the shaft, to keep it from spinning, otherwise, I hate em. These went in ok, hopefully it will remain ok.

 

[02trailblazerLS]

I dont mind the nylocks as long as there is some pressure holding the shaft, to keep it from spinning, otherwise, I hate em. These went in ok, hopefully it will remain ok.

I hope they remain okay as well! The guys at oreileys told me if u use two nylock bolts and torque em to spec and use loctite that it should never come off.

 

[gmcman]

Wow, that's crazy, definitely could have been a bad show.

Was the steering feeling very loose prior to this, vehicle wandering while driving?

Granted they are a pretty much pressed in after torquing, and could easily go for awhile if the nut came off.

Yikes.

 

[02trailblazerLS]

Wow, that's crazy, definitely could have been a bad show.

Was the steering feeling very loose prior to this, vehicle wandering while driving?

Granted they are a pretty much pressed in after torquing, and could easily go for awhile if the nut came off.

Yikes.

Yeah it was feeling fine to be honest, vehicle felt fine on freeway and city

 

[02trailblazerLS]

Im not sure exactly what to do at this point, i called the mechanic and he said that it seems like I do infact need longer tie rods, He knows that normally you dont need longer tie rods on these and that they dont even exist specifically for our trucks, he said hes gonna call me back in a bit regarding this. Im thinking that its gotta be somethin to do with the inners if the outers are too “short”. I had a reply a while back where someone told me that when he replaced his tie rods, he had a good 2+ inches in the inner tie rod, and i also have a picture of one new tie rod compared to an old one and the new one was slightly longer, 🧐

 

[Mooseman]

Oh, not that guy again! There are no longer tie-rods. If he means the STUD, well that's possible only because of a cheap poorly designed tie rod like these OR your tapered holes in the knuckles have been damaged and are now oversized allowing the studs to go in too deep and may not be sitting properly. If that's the case, your only option may be to replace the knuckles.

 

[02trailblazerLS]

Oh, not that guy again! There are no longer tie-rods. If he means the STUD, well that's possible only because of a cheap poorly designed tie rod like these OR your tapered holes in the knuckles have been damaged and are now oversized allowing the studs to go in too deep and may not be sitting properly. If that's the case, your only option may be to replace the knuckles.

yeah maybe he means the stud, ill have to clarify that, and i did notice that on the left side where theres no issues, there was one nut that keeps the tie rod on and no room for another, and on the broken side, i was able to get the tie rod back in place and i put two nuts, so i dont know how i can fit only one nut on the left side and two on the right side 🧐

 

[02trailblazerLS]

Ive seen other users go with the fabtech 2500hd or mevotech inners and outers, but im afraid those wont fit mine because its a 14mm

 

[02trailblazerLS]

What do u guys think of the fabtech setups? And i posted more pics of my tie rod ends left and right , the problem occured with the right outer tie rod end.

 

[gmcman]

How long ago were they replaced?

 

[02trailblazerLS]

How long ago were they replaced?

Little over a month ago but they have barely been drivin on, i had my pcm out for two weeks so i wasnt driving two weeks. They probably have like 3 weeks of driving on them

 

[TollKeeper]

A couple things..

Seriously dude, find a new mechanic... Thats all I can say about that.

On your tie-rod. One of 2 things has, or is, happening. Either the tie-rod cone/crown/taper (where it goes into the knuckle) is the wrong size. Or, the knuckle is wallowed out.

Knowing the history of your mechanic, I am leaning towards the first option.

There should be 1/2 inch inbetween the bottom of the knuckle, to the arm of the ball joint (not the boot, but the arm itself). In those pics, you have none. Which means in articulation/jounce, your tie-rod is going to be grabbing onto the knuckle, EDIT: and is also going to be cutting your grease boot exposing the joint to the elements /edit. This also means that the cone/crown/taper of the Tie-Rod sitting in the knuckle is loose, which will allow your nuts to turn loose. Pic for reference..

I would have no problem running around with Tie-Rods with -NO- Castle nuts or NyLocks. The pressure from the nut on the cone/crown/taper thru the knuckle should absolutely hold it in place, if the right parts are used.

 

[02trailblazerLS]

A couple things..

Seriously dude, find a new mechanic... Thats all I can say about that.

On your tie-rod. One of 2 things has, or is, happening. Either the tie-rod cone/crown (where it goes into the knuckle) is the wrong size. Or, the knuckle is wallowed out.

Knowing the history of your mechanic, I am leaning towards the first option.

There should be 1/2 inch inbetween the bottom of the knuckle, to the arm of the ball joint. In those pics, you have none. Which means in articulation/jounce, your tie-rod is going to be grabbing onto the knuckle. This also means that the cone/crown of the Tie-Rod sitting in the knuckle is loose, which will allow your nuts to turn loose.

I would have no problem running around with Tie-Rods with no Castle nuts or NyLocks. The pressure from the nut on the cone/crown thru the knuckle should absolutely hold it in place, if the right parts are used.

Okay I totally agreee and thanks for the help man. Can i ask, what tie rods inner and outer have you put in?

 

[02trailblazerLS]

A couple things..

Seriously dude, find a new mechanic... Thats all I can say about that.

On your tie-rod. One of 2 things has, or is, happening. Either the tie-rod cone/crown (where it goes into the knuckle) is the wrong size. Or, the knuckle is wallowed out.

Knowing the history of your mechanic, I am leaning towards the first option.

There should be 1/2 inch inbetween the bottom of the knuckle, to the arm of the ball joint (not the boot, but the arm itself). In those pics, you have none. Which means in articulation/jounce, your tie-rod is going to be grabbing onto the knuckle. This also means that the cone/crown of the Tie-Rod sitting in the knuckle is loose, which will allow your nuts to turn loose. Pic for reference..

I would have no problem running around with Tie-Rods with no Castle nuts or NyLocks. The pressure from the nut on the cone/crown thru the knuckle should absolutely hold it in place, if the right parts are used.

After looking at your picture, yours definitely looks different than mine, looks like the boot isnt up in there all the way, mine is jammed up all in there, maybe thats where i messed up.

 

[TollKeeper]

I updated my post above a little bit.

I have not replaced my inners yet, mine are still factory originals. My outers I just recently replaced with Detroit Axle...

But for your situation, I would not recommend them. You are going to want to find a parts warehouse local, that has both the large diameter, and small diameter in stock. Go buy both. When it goes into the knuckle right, it will look like the pic above. Just enough threads to put a nut on, and maybe a couple more, but not enough for 2 nuts, plus threads.

Then you can make the decision to stick with those, or maybe find "quality parts".

I quote the quality parts, because I dont think it really matters what the brand name is, except the high end mevotechs, I would bet they all come out of the same factory. Find one with a greaseable fitting, lifetime warranty, and go with it.

 

[02trailblazerLS]

I updated my post above a little bit.

I have not replaced my inners yet, mine are still factory originals. My outers I just recently replaced with Detroit Axle...

But for your situation, I would not recommend them. You are going to want to find a parts warehouse local, that has both the large diameter, and small diameter in stock. Go buy both. When it goes into the knuckle right, it will look like the pic above. Just enough threads to put a nut on, and maybe a couple more, but not enough for 2 nuts, plus threads.

Then you can make the decision to stick with those, or maybe find "quality parts".

I quote the quality parts, because I dont think it really matters what the brand name is, except the high end mevotechs, I would bet they all come out of the same factory. Find one with a greaseable fitting, lifetime warranty, and go with it.

Okay thanks, what mm are yours? Mine are 14mm. And so your saying i should buy both sets 14 mm and 16mm? And i see what u mean by how its going into the knuckle correctly and that u shouldnt be able to fit two bolts.

 

[TollKeeper]

I actually dont know the MM. I bought a Kit from Detroit Axle, and it came with all the correct parts. The kit I bought came with end links, outer tie-rods, upper control arms, lower control arms, lower control arm mounts, and wheel bearings. So far, I have had good luck with Detroit Axle, but not everyone on the board here has.

Mine is a 04 if that helps any.

I was saying buy both, use the one that works/fits correctly, return the other.

It may even be the case that someone replaced the knuckle at some point before you owned it (assuming your not the original owner), and one side could be different than the other if they grabbed it from the other diameter year. But I am just guessing here.

Edit: The other unknown is if the knuckle joint is wallowed out, or the cone/crown/taper got ruined. And I dont even know how to check for that. That would be something completely new to me.

 

[02trailblazerLS]

I actually dont know the MM. I bought a Kit from Detroit Axle, and it came with all the correct parts. The kit I bought came with end links, outer tie-rods, upper control arms, lower control arms, lower control arm mounts, and wheel bearings. So far, I have had good luck with Detroit Axle, but not everyone on the board here has.

Mine is a 04 if that helps any.

I was saying buy both, use the one that works/fits correctly, return the other.

It may even be the case that someone replaced the knuckle at some point before you owned it (assuming your not the original owner), and one side could be different than the other if they grabbed it from the other diameter year. But I am just guessing here.

Edit: The other unknown is if the knuckle joint is wallowed out. And I dont even know how to check for that. That would be something completely new to me.

Thanks for your help man I appreciate it, im about to have a mechanic look at it, ill get back to you guys in a bit

 

[TollKeeper]

After looking at your picture, yours definitely looks different than mine, looks like the boot isnt up in there all the way, mine is jammed up all in there, maybe thats where i messed up.

Not my picture, just one I grabbed from the forum here. But mine looks simalar, except my ABS wire is routed correctly, and my Brake like is standard rubber, not the SS this has.

 

[gmcman]

Most of this has been implied but, I've never had a locking-style nut just freely spin itself back off. That being said, there's no reason to re-invent the wheel.

I agree to have them replace with a high quality part. I would go to Napa and see the part that was used. I've not had any issues with Napa's good stuff.

 

[02trailblazerLS]

Just gone back from the local shop, this was a different shop and the guy was very helpful, he said that the other shop ( Midas) mustve not tightened the bolt to spec, n it got backed out after vibration. And he said my tie rod end is infact broken at this point and that u shouldnt be able to fit two nuts on there. He recommended i get a high quality replacement. but the tie rods i have are already “ high quality “ tie rods! They were 110$ each! Is there any better 14mm tie rods? Mine are the Napa chassis parts ones

 

[02trailblazerLS]

Is there any way to do a 14mm to 16mm conversion on a 2002 ls? Is that even worth doing? The 16mms have the mevotech that everyone says is real good. And has a castle nut which i like.

 

[TollKeeper]

Where did you get your current tie-rods from? Those are not high end. High end would have a Grease Fitting, and a castle/Nylock nut. The low end dont have the grease zerk.

This is the low end Duralast from Autozone

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/tie-rod-end/duralast-tie-rod-end-es4064/531961_0_0

This is the mid-grade Duralast from Advanced Auto

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/tie-rod-end/duralast-tie-rod-end-es3675/310584_0_0

That being said... I think I just figured out what happened. Looks like he used the tie rod lock/jam nut for the tie rod joint, and didnt use the Nylock nut that came with the kit. In the links from autozone above, you will see a lone nut sitting off to the side, and a nut on top of the joint. The nut on top is the Nylock/Castle, and the nut off to the side is the lock/jam nut.

 

[02trailblazerLS]

Where did you get your current tie-rods from? Those are not high end. High end would have a Grease Fitting, and a castle/Nylock nut. The low end dont have the grease zerk.

This is the low end Duralast from Autozone

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/tie-rod-end/duralast-tie-rod-end-es4064/531961_0_0

This is the mid-grade Duralast from Advanced Auto

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/tie-rod-end/duralast-tie-rod-end-es3675/310584_0_0

That being said... I think I just figured out what happened. Looks like he used the tie rod lock/jam nut for the tie rod joint, and didnt use the Nylock nut that came with the kit. In that second link from autozone above, you will see a lone nut sitting off to the side, and a nut on top of the joint. The nut on top is the Nylock, and the nut off to the side is the lock/jam nut.

Ohhh i see! And these were the best ones that napa auto parts have, they said it has the grease fitting, but no castle nuts. So when the guy put my tie rod ends in, he got the bolts mixed around correct? he was supposed to use the lock nut on the part where it connects to the knuckle, and the other nut on the actual alignment adjustment part right?

 

[TollKeeper]

Ohhh i see! And these were the best ones that napa auto parts have, they said it has the grease fitting, but no castle nuts. So when the guy put my tie rod ends in, he got the bolts mixed around correct? he was supposed to use the lock nut on the part where it connects to the knuckle, and the other nut on the actual alignment adjustment part right?

Correct. In those pics above that you posted, none of those have the grease fittings. So either the NAPA guy lied, or the mechanic didnt install them, both cases are bad.

By the way, I am not endorsing Autozone parts. Just using them as quick reference.

 

[02trailblazerLS]

Correct. In those pics above that you posted, none of those have the grease fittings. So either the NAPA guy lied, or the mechanic didnt install them, both cases are bad.

By the way, I am not endorsing Autozone parts. Just using them as quick reference.

Okay this is all making sense now! So one of them definitely lied and either way they got installed incorrectly. And that autozone tie rod end was the only one ive seen that is a 14mm with a locking castle nut! All the others 14mm at napa didnt have a castle nut. So the autozone ones seem like the ones i should get since they have the castle nut. If theres any better alternatives let me know, ive read about the 2500hd setups and mevotech setups but i think those are only for 16mm

 

[TollKeeper]

Im just now leaving work, so wont respond again until tomorrow. But in my quick search at Advance Auto, they do NOT have the castle nuts, but have the Nylocks. Thats all I was able to search.. Gotta clock out..

 

[02trailblazerLS]

Im just now leaving work, so wont respond again until tomorrow. But in my quick search at Advance Auto, they do NOT have the castle nuts, but have the Nylocks. Thats all I was able to search.. Gotta clock out..

Thanks for all the great help man!

 

[02trailblazerLS]

Okay this is all making sense now! So one of them definitely lied and either way they got installed incorrectly. And that autozone tie rod end was the only one ive seen that is a 14mm with a locking castle nut! All the others 14mm at napa didnt have a castle nut. So the autozone ones seem like the ones i should get since they have the castle nut. If theres any better alternatives let me know, ive read about the 2500hd setups and mevotech setups but i think those are only for 16mm

Turns out i was wrong about those autozone tie rods with the castle nut being 14mm, there 16mm