Sorry Sparky. Didn't get any pics after the fact. I was just to done to even think about anything else but "i can't believe this".Wow, ouch...
Got any pics of that? That's nuts.
YUP! That's
Thanks MRRSM! I'll definitely tell the mechanic to run the gamut you've put forth. I plan to make sure that he swapps all my new and warranted engine parts too. Which there are plenty. Gonna make a list for him! I would also like to keep the old engine. I'd tear it apart and fix it just cause AND to sell it and offset my expense. But unfortunately I don't have any where to keep it. Which SUKS!FWIW... If you are not doing your own labour with "A Fist Full of Friends" on hand to help get the Old Engine out and the New Engine in...Try to negotiate your labour costs down by offering your Old Engine to the Mechanic as partial payment. @MAY03LT will wisely advise you to, "Hang On to Your Old Sh*t..." because many of those Old Engine parts will remain serviceable forever and will really come in handy some day.
Also...there are a few excellent contemporary threads that can guide you through the many small and important things worth doing B4 you put the motor into the vehicle and you'll soon figure and find out how much easier it will be by getting the "housecleaning" done on the ostensibly Newer Engine WHILE ITS STILL ON AN ENGINE STAND and save yourself a bushel basket full of minor troubles later on.
If a Hired Mechanic is doing the work for you...be sure to include your Laundry List of "Things To Do First...WITHOUT FAIL" ...so he doesn't add in additional labour fees while the newer engine is still bolted to an Engine Stand that a Newborn Baby would find easy to walk around and work on the motor. Some Good Examples of the things worth doing B4 Installing are:
(1) R&R The REAR ENGINE OIL SEAL
(2) R&R The FLEX-PLATE
(3) Power Flush the Lower Engine thru the Oil Drain Plug to Flush out any Debris B4 Filling it
(4) Look over the Valve Cover for Leaks and water inside the Spark Plug wells
(5) R&R and Read all 6 Spark Plugs
(6) Pull off the Intake Manifold and clean out all of the Carbon & Oil build-up
(7) When you re-install The Intake Manifold... double check that all fasteners are tight
(8) Examine your Exhaust Ports and search EACH BOLT HOLE for any broken off studs
(9) If you need to extract any Broken Bolts...Engine Stand Repairs will be much easier NOW
(10) Replace your Motor and Transmission Mounts while you can still see them to R&R
...and so forth... There are many other related posts... and just as many helpful and contributory members here to give you encouragement and offer more ideas and suggestions on how you can stay on track... with as few surprises as possible. You will come to know some of the people here will be acting like Real Guardian Angels... and all us as well, have your best interests in mind in getting you well past your present difficulties... and once again, able to get back on the road.
Cool. Thanks littleblazer! Do you have an idea as to around how much this repair will cost me?Used by a long shot... I don't even know if these engines are rebuild able... well they are but like I don't recall anyone rebuilding one....
It's probably impossible to get a new crate 4.2 since they don't make them anymore. I would imagine the dealer can get a reman because they have an exchange program. I'm pretty sure that there are shops that can rebuild them. I'd try and fins a good low mileage used motor.
I can't see how a valve could even get into the oil pan. It's physically impossible. You would have to see where the oil is coming from. If it did drop a valve, which I suspect, it would have damaged the piston top as well as the head. Even if the piston survived with a minor nick, you would need a rebuilt head and those ain't cheap. Labour is a bitch too. Just ask @MRRSM.
If you can do it yourself, you might be able to get it it done close to $800. Again, it's the labour that's a killer.
Thanks gmcman. I spoke to mechanic and he says they replace the engine in situations like this. Going to have the truck towed in tomorrow if his quote is acceptable. So much for my new rims...smhMan, that really sucks you have to go through this. Many good points on what to change when the motor is on the stand.
I would replace the trans cooler lines and maybe even the steering rack and power steering lines.
Good luck man.
Lol!! I live in NYC Mooseman. A deal is always around the corner. Most times you just got to know where, and be willing, to look. Remember...I payed $3000 for this vehicle in 2010...Cheaper than that, I think that you'd be in the "I dunno where these go" spare parts territory.
Lol!! I live in NYC Mooseman. A deal is always around the corner. Most times you just got to know where, and be willing, to look. Remember...I payed $3000 for this vehicle in 2010...
If it wasn't for the current value of our Canadian Peso, I would have looked up such a deal. LOL!
Any news of the transplant? Find a better deal?
Lol!! I live in NYC Mooseman. A deal is always around the corner. Most times you just got to know where, and be willing, to look. Remember...I payed $3000 for this vehicle in 2010...
YESSIRRR!!! I thought the truck was stolen too. The guy wanted me to bring him the $ on the street. I told him we doing EVERYTHING thru DMV. No exceptions. Turns out it was legit. AND he had to pay the bank $2k to sell it to me for $3k! He made $1k on the deal...I love crackhead prices. I can find them around louisville sometimes. Someone always owes someone money or its stolen.
You said you filled it up, went away, came home and the gauge was reading 7/8ths.....could someone be stealing your gas?.......also just thinking out loud ---if you had a leak in your gas tank you should get a P0440 code......unless the previous owner had some issue and somehow rigged it so the PCM is not throwing a code. Never heard of someone doing that but I wouldn't be surprised if someone couldn't figure out how.