New engine swap Refresher.....

Tankcruiser

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Member
Oct 29, 2018
108
Toledo
Hi been here for awhile and finally gotten an engine for 2005 tb
torn extra stuff off etc along with exh manifold since i got new replacement 2 bolts were broken.
So i had to drill out LH bits to 3/16 bit size
its the rearward most hole near perfect center hole
so whats the recommended way to get rest out? easy out?
I did clean out other threads with m8 1.25 tap and tap magic fluid. cant wait to see all back together for installment
 

Tankcruiser

Original poster
Member
Oct 29, 2018
108
Toledo
does the intake manifolf bolts come off the manifold or not? seems to be floating around float pass thru bolts??
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,992
Ottawa, ON
A popular way of getting broken bolts out is by welding a nut onto the broken bolt. Apart from giving something to grab on to, it also heats that bolt. Of course it depends if you own a welder.

The bolts go through the manifold and into the head just like any other manifold except for the 3 studs at the exhaust pipe flange.
 
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Tankcruiser

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Oct 29, 2018
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Toledo
wished i had welder but i got it out with different drll bits and lost 5 mm of threads.... bolt tad loose in it now. hope it holds good
 
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Tankcruiser

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Oct 29, 2018
108
Toledo
big update and question
ive gotten engine on stand amd saw an sensor with 3 wires plug still attached to it on bottom of oil pan. is it an oil level sensor??
i have info on engine block if that helps to narrow down the yr the block was built
022180224 this was on rhs close to flexplate near an bolt thread
this is on valve cover as well the block nearby the thermostat housing 10NAA V208061887
I hope its not an older engine than 05.... but the crank pulley is not the 02 design...... any info would help Thanks
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
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Ottawa, ON
02 was the only year that had the oil level sensor at the bottom of the pan. When I swapped the engine in my 02, I had to swap the oil pan because my replacement engine was an 05.

Sorry you got an oldie. The crank balancer and seal changed mid year to the later design.
 

TJBaker57

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Aug 16, 2015
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I once read a GM bulletin that stated some 2003s might have the oil temp sensor amd some might have the harness connector and so on. Seems they used up the existing stock.

The point of the bulletin was that the 2003 PCM did NOT have the programming so dealers were instructed to ignore various inconsistencies they may see regarding the oil temp/oil level sensor in 2003 model year 4.2 engines.
 
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TJBaker57

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big update and question
ive gotten engine on stand amd saw an sensor with 3 wires plug still attached to it on bottom of oil pan. is it an oil level sensor??
i have info on engine block if that helps to narrow down the yr the block was built
022180224 this was on rhs close to flexplate near an bolt thread
this is on valve cover as well the block nearby the thermostat housing 10NAA V208061887
I hope its not an older engine than 05.... but the crank pulley is not the 02 design...... any info would help Thanks

Looks like it was built in 02, August 6th if I'm reading this right.

Screenshot_20220310-211310.png
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,992
Ottawa, ON
I've got that in my chain tensioner thread.


Both were on the 02 depending if it was an early or late version.

Year to year differences were minor, slight increase in HP ratings on later years. Apart from the oil level sensor and early 02 pulley, they are all the same.

As far as the yard is concerned, this could be considered fraud if the one they sold you they said and is documented as an 05. The hard evidence says otherwise. What else did they lie about? Mileage? Does it look good inside? The 05 I got was poorly maintained and had lots of oil varnish and crusties inside causing issues later on.
 
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Tankcruiser

Original poster
Member
Oct 29, 2018
108
Toledo
I've got that in my chain tensioner thread.


Both were on the 02 depending if it was an early or late version.

Year to year differences were minor, slight increase in HP ratings on later years. Apart from the oil level sensor and early 02 pulley, they are all the same.

As far as the yard is concerned, this could be considered fraud if the one they sold you they said and is documented as an 05. The hard evidence says otherwise. What else did they lie about? Mileage? Does it look good inside? The 05 I got was poorly maintained and had lots of oil varnish and crusties inside causing issues later on.
fraud yes i will figure that out later on going to read up ur thread and see what i got here theres some carbon build up due to leaking exhuast manifold 2 bolts snapped off and 1 hole was half covered by manifold...... other came out with alot of patientance and spray and torch abit 3 hrs later
 

Tankcruiser

Original poster
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Oct 29, 2018
108
Toledo
i have the later harmonic balancer pulley thank god.....
will remove valve cover for further inspections as to possible fraud or pure lazy on their part for not iding the engine shluld ask my money back 500 buckaroos i paid for it plus 50 core grand total of 550 bucks
 

TJBaker57

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i have the later harmonic balancer pulley thank god.....
will remove valve cover for further inspections as to possible fraud or pure lazy on their part for not iding the engine shluld ask my money back 500 buckaroos i paid for it plus 50 core grand total of 550 bucks

For ammunition in dealing with the engine supplier.... The GM Heritage Center has what they call vehicle information kits available. Here at this link you can download the version you want... That's where I got the label info I posted...


Wonder if they got the motor out of an 05 that had the engine swapped before them and they just didn't check??
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,992
Ottawa, ON
Wonder if they got the motor out of an 05 that had the engine swapped before them and they just didn't check??
That is quite possible so maybe before slinging the F word (fraud), maybe talk to them. It xould still be a perfectly fine engine and is equal in just about every way to the 05. Maybe you can get some coin refunded.
 
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Tankcruiser

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Oct 29, 2018
108
Toledo
update! got valve cover off and looks nice inside like medium honey color and comes off easily.
spent an hr of hell to get driveshaft u joints off rearend with dead blow bfh and big prybar
whats the u joint have to be as replacement? im told the wrong one would cause it to vibrate.... have an local 4x4 shop to obtain u joint if needed hopefully usa made
whats the bracket called that holds the harness going into the transmission connector? missing since it been rebuilt and the round transconnector is wet red color.... not happy camper:mad:
about to remove the transfer case first and then trans
any advice onto removing transmission without draining the fluid???
Thanks everyone at Gmtnation!! awesome forum!
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,992
Ottawa, ON
spent an hr of hell to get driveshaft u joints off rearend
Shouldn't be that difficult to pry off diff yoke once you remove the two straps. Removing from the driveshaft is another story for the factory ones because they are held in with injected nylon. After putting some squeeze on the cups using a u-joint press, you heat the ears with a propane torch until the nylon starts oozing out the holes. Should pop out easily after that.

whats the u joint have to be as replacement? im told the wrong one would cause it to vibrate.... have an local 4x4 shop to obtain u joint if needed hopefully usa made
Any good name brand should do. Greasable is preferable however the originals last a long time and they aren't greasable so...

about to remove the transfer case first and then trans
any advice onto removing transmission without draining the fluid???
Should be doable since there is a separate seal between trans and t-case. However there is the hole left from the dipstick that could spill fluid.

whats the bracket called that holds the harness going into the transmission connector? missing since it been rebuilt and the round transconnector is wet red color.... not happy camper:mad:
Maybe the seal at the electrical connector going into the trans is damaged or missing. Don't know about bracket.
 

Tankcruiser

Original poster
Member
Oct 29, 2018
108
Toledo
update!
got driveshaft off and front shaft as well
went to work on removing nuts holding t case.... well broked the stuck attached t case with 2 nuts holding on and some red fluid came out between the t case and transmission enough to grab oil pan and stick it under it and let it come out.
Whats going on here? im seperating tcase aftsr the transmission mount if thats helpful where im at

junkyard gave me credits towards anything else they ran engine b4 removing it ans said ran almosf flawless other than exhuast leak whixh was mostly quiet

theres an metal bracket thats supposed to be bolted to side of transmission and the plastic clip holding harness supposed to be slid on and locked into place on metal bracket similar to others on gmt360 370
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,992
Ottawa, ON
some red fluid came out between the t case and transmission enough to grab oil pan and stick it under it and let it come out.
Whats going on here? im seperating tcase aftsr the transmission mount if thats helpful where im at
The seal at the tranny tail is leaking and into the cavity between it and the transfer case. Transfer case fluid is blue so it's not that. Might as well change that seal while it's off.
 

Tankcruiser

Original poster
Member
Oct 29, 2018
108
Toledo
The seal at the tranny tail is leaking and into the cavity between it and the transfer case. Transfer case fluid is blue so it's not that. Might as well change that seal while it's off.
thanks and that trans been rebuilt....... something is off here will investigate more. Is the seal easily r and r and whats rhe p/n? thanks
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,992
Ottawa, ON
It shouldn't be complicated, just a regular seal. Checked on RA and they don't give much info with the part numbers. One looks likely, other one looks unlikely as it looks like for a 2WD and the GM original looks weird. I'd check with either a parts store or a dealer.
 
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Tankcruiser

Original poster
Member
Oct 29, 2018
108
Toledo
exhuast bolt questions
i got the felpro es 75120 its 30mm under the head and comes with some kind of blue coating
saw dorman 03413 too but some said it shear china junk ans 30mm per description
somewhere someone mentioned 35mm bolts....
i wonder whats the deal here and what is that blue coating for?
do i need threadlocker and what color to use? blue? red?
thank you
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,992
Ottawa, ON
That's probably blue Loctite.

@MRRSM did a full analysis of these bolts including length.
 
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mrrsm

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Yes... You might even say that I've done an "EXHAUSTive" Study on this problem... :>)

The FelPro Bolt Dimensions are M8 X 1.25 X 30mm as listed below for the Original GM OEM "Stock-As-A-Clock" Exhaust Manifold. They will be TOO SHORT by 5mm if you are using Dorman Brand Replacement Exhaust Manifold:

GM42LEXHMANBOLTS1.jpg

As long as you choose a 10.9 Hard Bolt with the Dimensions of M8 X 1.25 X 35mm ... they will work fine. I prefer After Market Brands like THESE as an alternative because they provide a smooth, un-threaded area under the Large Hex Head Flange Cap Screw (PT = Partial Thread).

This design discourages Rust and Damage from Flexing due to the absence of the thread line catching Water and Rusting. They also sport a Wider Contact Surface under the Hex Head which spreads the contact load over a wider area of the Cast Iron Exhaust Manifold Bolt Hole Surfaces:

42718968664_402329181d_c.jpg29564523578_49b68c2612_c.jpg42530517915_f79951b036_c.jpg42718968504_5082ba3e9f_c.jpg29564522918_af233ee1ce_c.jpg

Forgive this slight chastisement... But... Taking Images of any Engine Work you do and Posting them back here at GMT Nation involving any Major Components R&R is almost a "Right of Passage" that will endure in your Personal Threads for as long as Grass is Green... and Skies are Blue.

Much can be lost in the translation of "Plain Text" and in the absence of ALL of us being able to actually SEE what it is that you are looking at, it can be a bit confusing. In this instance ...I thought at first that you were talking about the Three "Donut Flange" Bolts connecting the CAT Can to the Exhaust Manifold, instead of the ones I've just thoroughly thrashed out for you ...above.

I'm sure you can appreciate these distinctions after SEE-ing THESE.

One Last Suggestion...

If you have Two or More Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolts... Worn Out Motor Mounts comes into the Picture. There are quite a few Good Threads covering their R&R and while you are at it, the Replacement Transmission Mount should be thrown in for Good Measure. Use ONLY the GM ACDelco OEM Flavor. THESE are the Ones You Want:

29528237368_2c3aae6f34_c.jpg
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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Re: Post #20...

My Apologies for missing your inquiry about "How To Post Pictures"...


I have had solid results from visiting https://www.flickr.com and initially setting up a FREE Account as a Warehouse for all of my subjects. Here is the link to the Main Page where ALL of those Albums are housed. I have a Paid Professional Account because of the Thousands of Images you will find publicly accessible there.

This is the Background Banner Image I cropped from an old Oil On Canvas Painting I made that I called "A Walk In The Woods":

MRRSMFLICKRBANNER.jpg

This is The Main "Flickr-Bucket" Page where all of my Albums are Parked:


To help with your present Engine Building efforts...THESE Albums may prove very useful to access via these Links:

GM Atlas 4.2L LL8 TTY Bolts and Main Fasteners:


GM Atlas 4.2L LL8 OEM GM and ACDelco NEW Engine Parts Appearances, Part Numbers,Sub- Pieces & Boxing Designs:


I've tried to do most of the heavy lifting to memorialize this information for us all on my "Flickr-Bucket" so they won't clutter up things here at Our "Home Base" at GMT Nation.

Spend some time there Browsing ALL of the Topical Albums and you won't regret having access to all of those FREE images for Engine Tear Downs and Clean Up. They will be there FREE to take for as long as "Flickr.com" is still around... even after I'm gone. :>)

So... Grab'em While You CAN...
 
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Tankcruiser

Original poster
Member
Oct 29, 2018
108
Toledo
As how life goes ive finslly gotten engine out after several major battle with the half shafts the jesus bolts intake manifold bolt system and the engine itself...... victory at last after 2 weeks on and off
now i got figure out some how post my flickr thing.... i have alot of pics to post and would love to post em:woohoo:
 

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