Need help for wiring crime stopper sp-502 alarm & remote starting...

[unico13]

Hello everyone,!!I spend two days reviewing all the installation guide we have here..( blazinlow89 thread and awer25 in trailvoy.) and I read all the reply of great MAY03LT.. But I have connections that I dont know where to connect.. Hope you guys can help me., I know its easy to bring it to installer and pay $$$.. But for me If I can do it,why not? and to save as well.. ( Everytime I accomplish something by myself,( w/ the help of others. ) It makes me proud and happy..

So what I have is Crime Stopper SP-502 and OMEGA DB-GMDL-BP bypass..
View attachment 28804

And as I understand from MAY03LT connection from blazinlow89 thread, my connections are:
View attachment 28805

(LEFT SIDE)
Status LED
Shock Sensor

* Door Lock Plug (White 3 PinS Plug)
BLUE (UNLOCK (-) ) = ?
RED ( 12V ) FOR RELAYS = ?
GREEN (LOCK (-) ) = ?

*LOW CURRENT PLUG (Blue 4 PinS Plug)
GREEN&WHITE (-) IGN/AUX = ?
VIOLET&WHITE (-) ACC/AUX3 = ?
BLUE&BALACK (-) RUN/AUX2 = ?
BLUE/ORANGE (-) STARTER = ?

*OMEGA DB-GMDLBP
BROWN(NEG GND WHEN RUNNING) = ?
GREEN(LOCK INPUT) = ?
BLUE(UNLOCK INPUT) = ?
VIO&WHTE = ?
VIOLET(DATA OUTPUT) = PURPLE WIRE(OBD2 CONN)
PINK&WHTE(DOOR TRIG OUTPUT) = ?
PINK(DOME LIGHT INPUT) = ?
ORANGE(PANIC INPUT) = ?
RED(12V CONSTANT) = ?
BLACK(CHASIS GND) = GND

(RIGHT SIDE)

*6 PINS PLUG (ALL CONNECTED TO THE VEHICLE)
GREY(ACC 1) = (C201) D1 ORANGE
BROWN(STARTER) = (C201) C1 YELLOW ( CUT THE WIRE FOR ANTI GRIND)
BOTH REDS(12V) = (C201) D2 RED (C201) B5 RED&WHITE? ( DO I HAVE TO USE BOTH D2 & B5 OR JUST ONE OF THEM? )
PINK(IGN) = (C201) C6 PINK
PINK&WHITE(SELECTABLE:ST#2/IGN#2/ACC#2) = (C201) C5 WHITE

*12 PINS
WHITE&RED(TACH ENGINE MONITOR) = WHITE @ PCM BLUE PLUG#49
BLACK(GND) = MAIN GND
WHITE(-500mA/+10Amps) = ?
RED/BLACK(10 Amps FUSE) = ?
BROWN(SIREN) = SIREN FROM STARTER
BROWN&WHITE = NEEDS A RELAY TO FACTORY HORN?
BLACK&WHITE(DOMELIGHT) = RELAY = ?
GREEN&RED(TRUNK POP RELAY0 = N/A
YELLOW&BLACK(OEM ARM) = NOT NEEDED?
ORANGE&BLACK(OEM DISARM) = NOT NEEDED?
ORANGE(- ARM ) = STARTER KILL RELAY
*YELLOW(86) = GREEN OF 12 PINS
*WHITE(85) = (C201) C6 PINK
*GREEN(30) = (C201) C1 YELLOW (CUT) OTHER SIDE
*GREEN(87) = (C201) C1 YELLOW (CUT) MOTOR SIDE
BLUE&WHITE(PASS DOOR LOCK) = ?

*7 pins
WHITE(+BRAKE SWITCH) = BRAKE PAL ( WHITE WIRE @ FLASHER)
BLK&WHITE(START ACT/HAND BREAK) = ?
PINK(WAIT TO START/CAR JACK) = ?
PURPLE(+DOOR SWITCH) = ?
GREEN(-DOOR SWITCH) = ?
BLUE(-TRUNK SWITCH) = N/A
GRAY(-HOOD SWITCH) = HOOD SWITCH

As you can see most of them are "?" cause I dont know where to connect them or Im not sure., please guide me and correct me for my connections,. thank you and I really appreciate it..View attachment 28807

 

[MAY03LT]

Whaddup man! Looks like you did your research on this install, much respect!

I did a quick search for the 502 manual, but didn't find it. I gotta have the descriptions of some of the wires in the 4, 6, 12, and 7 pin connectors.

This is what I have now:

Door Lock Plug (White 3 PinS Plug)
BLUE (UNLOCK (-) ) = To GMDLBP blue (unlock input -)
RED - not used
GREEN (LOCK (-) ) = To GMDLBP green (lock input -)


*OMEGA DB-GMDLBP
BROWN(NEG GND WHEN RUNNING) = ?
GREEN(LOCK INPUT) = 502's 3 pin
BLUE(UNLOCK INPUT) = 502's 3 pin
VIO&WHTE = not used
VIOLET(DATA OUTPUT) = PURPLE WIRE(OBD2 CONN)
PINK&WHTE(DOOR TRIG OUTPUT) = GREEN wire in 502's 7 pin
PINK = not used
ORANGE = not used
RED (12v CONSTANT) = can wire into constant with RED in 6 pin
BLACK = ground


*6 PINS PLUG (ALL CONNECTED TO THE VEHICLE)
GREY(ACC 1) = (C201) D1 ORANGE
BROWN(STARTER) = (C201) C1 YELLOW ( CUT THE WIRE FOR ANTI GRIND)
*I don't cut yellow, our trucks have anti grind built in*
BOTH REDS(12V) = (C201) D2 RED (C201) B5 RED&WHITE? ( DO I HAVE TO USE BOTH D2 & B5 OR JUST ONE OF THEM?) You'll use both D2 and B5, but I have to see the manual before confirming which goes to which.
PINK(IGN) = (C201) C6 PINK
PINK&WHITE(SELECTABLE:ST#2/IGN#2/ACC#2) = (C201) C5 WHITE (this will be set to IGN 2)


*12 PINS
WHITE&RED(TACH ENGINE MONITOR) = WHITE @ PCM BLUE PLUG#49
BLACK(GND) = MAIN GND
WHITE(-500mA/+10Amps) = ? (should be park lights, have to confirm)
RED/BLACK(10 Amps FUSE) = ? (need description)
BROWN(SIREN) = SIREN FROM STARTER
BROWN&WHITE = NEEDS A RELAY TO FACTORY HORN? (need description)
BLACK&WHITE(DOMELIGHT) = RELAY = (NOT NEEDED, BCM controlled)
GREEN&RED(TRUNK POP RELAY0 = N/A
YELLOW&BLACK(OEM ARM) = NOT NEEDED? (correct)
ORANGE&BLACK(OEM DISARM) = NOT NEEDED? (correct)
ORANGE(- ARM ) = STARTER KILL RELAY
*YELLOW(86) = GREEN OF 12 PINS
*WHITE(85) = (C201) C6 PINK
*GREEN(30) = (C201) C1 YELLOW (CUT) OTHER SIDE
*GREEN(87) = (C201) C1 YELLOW (CUT) MOTOR SIDE
BLUE&WHITE(PASS DOOR LOCK) = ? (not needed)

*7 pins
WHITE(+BRAKE SWITCH) = BRAKE PAL ( WHITE WIRE @ FLASHER) (correct)
BLK&WHITE(START ACT/HAND BREAK) = ? (If this is the park/neutral safety switch, I just ground it. Our trucks can't start if not in park)
PINK(WAIT TO START/CAR JACK) = ? (not needed)
PURPLE(+DOOR SWITCH) = ? (not needed)
GREEN(-DOOR SWITCH) = ? (to gmdlbp)
BLUE(-TRUNK SWITCH) = N/A
GRAY(-HOOD SWITCH) = HOOD SWITCH

As you can see most of them are "?" cause I dont know where to connect them or Im not sure., please guide me and correct me for my connections,. thank you and I really appreciate it..

You did pretty good! There are still some things that I want to be sure of in the connectors that I mentioned above. I think I noted all of the circuits that I want to know more about. There should also be a ground when running circuit in one of the connectors of the 502.

Some people don't wire in acc2, whether or not you want to is up to you. In awers thread, he showed the acc2 relay. I think you can use the violet/white in the 4 pin for your acc2 relay turn on.

I tap into the park light + wire (brown) in the FAP harness for park lights. This is the only way that I found that the headlights won't flash.

 

[unico13]

Thank you very much SIR MAY03LT
I am good,and how bout you?

As I post my wiring diagram I dont know if thats help to determine where they going,.
In 6 pins *pink&white the default setting is IGN#2View attachment 28813

In 12 PINS
*WHITE(-500mA/+10Amps)= GOING TO PARKING LIGHTS
*RED&BLACK= PARKING LIGHT INPUT (SELECT 12V/GROUND)View attachment 28810

*BROWN&WHITE= GOING TO FACTORY CAR HORNView attachment 28811

In 7 PINS
*BLACK&WHITE=GOING TO HAND BREAKView attachment 28812

I dont know if I answer your questions,correct me if Im wrong I just post what the installation guide page, if you want me to upload the whole guide please let me know,.And please tell me if you can see/read all the pics I uploaded..

the more dumbmest question is, this connection will allow me to unlock & lock my Bravada right?lol
And do I should put back up battery?if yes which battery and where I should connect this?

And SIR Im lost with your last part of your post bout ACC2 and tapping into the park light + (brown) wire..
sorry for lots of questions,.

Thank you and much respect!!!

 

[MAY03LT]

Thank you very much SIR MAY03LT
I am good,and how bout you?

As I post my wiring diagram I dont know if thats help to determine where they going,.

I dont know if I answer your questions,correct me if Im wrong I just post what the installation guide page, if you want me to upload the whole guide please let me know,.And please tell me if you can see/read all the pics I uploaded..

Man I've been Busy Busy Busy. Thanks, I can see all of the pics and that has helped cover most of the loose ends.

*OMEGA DB-GMDLBP
BROWN(NEG GND WHEN RUNNING) = ?

The 502 should have a wire that goes to ground when it starts the remote start. It's sometimes called "(-) status out". The GMDLBP has to have this or it won't take care of passlock and the truck won't crank.

*6 PINS PLUG (ALL CONNECTED TO THE VEHICLE) BOTH REDS(12V) = (C201) D2 RED (C201) B5 RED&WHITE

You can wire one red to one and the other to the other, don't matter which is which.

*12 PINS
WHITE(-500mA/+10Amps) = ?
RED/BLACK(10 Amps FUSE) = ?

You have a choice on how you want to wire in the park lights.
Each way gets wired a little different.

Most online diagrams say to use the park lights (-) at the back of the headlight switch. If you do that, RED/BLACK gets grounded, and the white wire goes to the grey/black wire at the back of the headlight switch.

For some reason, that way has been known to make the headlights come on or flash. I had one here that would flash them intermittently. This has been a problem for folks who have HID headlights.

So I use the park lights (+) in the wire harness under the dash. The harness has the word FAP on it (which I laugh at everytime I see it).

If you do it that way, RED/BLACK would get wired to a constant 12v source, and WHITE would go to park (+), which is one of the brown wires in the FAP harness.

BROWN&WHITE = NEEDS A RELAY TO FACTORY HORN?

Yeah, it will need a relay. BROWN/WHITE can't power the horns so a relay is the only way to do it. I don't have a diagram but I can whip one up in MSPaint if needed.

*7 pins
BLK&WHITE(START ACT/HAND BREAK)

This is not needed.

the more dumbmest question is, this connection will allow me to unlock & lock my Bravada right?lol
And do I should put back up battery?if yes which battery and where I should connect this?

And SIR Im lost with your last part of your post bout ACC2 and tapping into the park light + (brown) wire..
sorry for lots of questions,.

Thank you and much respect!!!

Yup, even if it is one of rare ones that doesn't have factory keyless.:wootwoot:

It's you're call if you want a backup battery. I've used DEIs version (I don't have the part number though).

Our trucks have 2 IGN circuits and 2 ACC circuits. Just about every remote start that I know of has 2 IGNs and only 1 ACC. Some folks have had issues when they didn't add the second ACC. If the trucks ACC's get wired to the one ACC of the 502, there will be issues there as well. So, adding a ACC2 is highly recommended.

I talked about the park lights a few paragraphs ago, hope that clears it up.

Also no prob man, take your time and you'll get this thing working.

 

[unico13]

hooray!!!:wootwoot:

After being busy from work and some personal things, I have now time to visit this AWESOME site..
Shout out for MAY03LT!!! Just want to thank you for your help. For wiring and PM's..

Until now My Remote car starter works perfectly..
If you want pictures i can post some to help others for wiring..

Again Big THANKS to MAY03LT!!!

 

[jsheahawk]

Sorry to rez this thread, but I'm doing a 502 install with an INT-SL+, and this thread was just what I needed. It is making all of my brain tumblers fall into place. As usual, MAY03LT knocks it out of the park.

One question: You said you don't cut the ignition wire because our trucks have anti-grind. Does that get rid of the need for that relay? Pic attached with poorly written MSPaint words.

Thanks, community!

 

[coolasice]

Yup, forget the relay and connect directly to the wire, the pcm has antigrind built in....


But if you want the starter disable to work when the alarm goes off you will need it

 

[jsheahawk]

Yup, forget the relay and connect directly to the wire, the pcm has antigrind built in....


But if you want the starter disable to work when the alarm goes off you will need it

Thanks, man! I think I'll leave it out for now and maybe add it in later.

 

[jsheahawk]

Yup, forget the relay and connect directly to the wire, the pcm has antigrind built in....


But if you want the starter disable to work when the alarm goes off you will need it

Is my attached diagram correct? Brown and orange attached to the starter wire? Or neither?

Aaaaand another wrinkle: I'm using the INT-SL+ with the data link. So which of these wires aren't needed with data link? I'm guessing at least the three pin door unlock/lock. Any others...or a lot of the others? The install manual is...vague on this. I watched a video where he wires the big six pin plug then just wires brake, parking light and ground, horn, and ODBII.

Here's the video:

He starts wiring at 12:00. He has a six pin t-harness, so I'm just wondering about the little wires he starts hooking up at 13:30.

Thanks again.

 

[coolasice]

according to that diagram all you need is the brown to the starter wire, not the orange. for the int-sl.. i think if you are using the data lines there are only 2 wires to hook up, ing+, OBD.. the door trigger and also the tach may need to be hooked up to your 502 if it doesn't support it via databus

 

[jsheahawk]

according to that diagram all you need is the brown to the starter wire, not the orange. for the int-sl.. i think if you are using the data lines there are only 2 wires to hook up, ing+, OBD.. the door trigger and also the tach may need to be hooked up to your 502 if it doesn't support it via databus

Oh, duh. Brown being the large wire that actually starts it.

Any idea where to pull door trigger from? I found something saying a tan wire on the BCM purple connector .

 

[coolasice]

Door trigger from int-sl. --》 502 door trigger input

 

[jsheahawk]

I installed my 502 and INT-SL+ yesterday. It went smoothly and took me about six hours, but I soldered and taped all my connections.

Data Link is a huge, HUGE time saver. Outside of the heavy gauge six pin harness, all I hooked up were IGN+, horn, tail lights, brake, siren+, OBDII, 12V (to power the units), and ground. I tried to hook up the hood switch, but I melted the plastic plunger when I tried to solder to the hood pin assembly. Whoops! Tach, door lock/unlock, door sensor, dome light, and who knows what all else was handled via data. It would have taken me twelve hours without Data Link. If I'd have tapped all the wires like a schmuck, I could have knocked it out in an hour or two. One of those fancy wire strippers that can make a gap in the middle of a wire would have been great. I have one, but it doesn't work.

You can hook up to the horn without a relay. I soldered into a small gauge black wire on the back of the harness. I think it was D4. It shows up in the pinout as horn relay, so I figured I didn't need a relay to trigger a relay. It works, but I have no idea if it'll be an issue. They were similarly small wires, so I'm guessing it will be fine.

The only hiccup I had was the on the six pin plug. The gray wire (ACC) was supposed to go to D1 (orange) according to the instructions that the OP and MAY03LT gave. My orange wire was in D1, but it showed 12V on ignition, and C5 (white) showed 12V on ACC. So long story short, TEST YOUR WIRES. This was on my 2002 TB LS. So take literally everyone's advice and test your wires.

The easiest place to get to the brake wire is at the tow plug that's attached to the kick plate you take off when you start. It's on the left. It's big and says something about towing on it.

I'm still curious if data will turn on the rear defroster if it's below freezing. We'll see in a few days when I leave work.

If I'd have done anything differently, I would have cut the wires down as short as I could have. It's a damn rats next under there now...even with about thirty cable ties.

Thanks to the forum in general and coolasice in particular for their help. Couldn't have done it without you guys!

 

[TB_n00b]

I'm actually looking to do this install as well and this thread is invaluable.

I REALLY wish that the t-harness in the video linked above was available for purchase. Maybe it can be easily made instead of soldering into the factory harness?

As I have a 2007 TB my research here, on the OS and the12Volt are telling me the extra relay to send power to ACC2 is required and the 6 pin Pink/White wire will be dedicated to IGN #2.

 

[jsheahawk]

I'm actually looking to do this install as well and this thread is invaluable.

I REALLY wish that the t-harness in the video linked above was available for purchase. Maybe it can be easily made instead of soldering into the factory harness?

As I have a 2007 TB my research here, on the OS and the12Volt are telling me the extra relay to send power to ACC2 is required and the 6 pin Pink/White wire will be dedicated to IGN #2.

I sent some emails, and they tell me that harness isn't made any more. They're planning to make their own, but he said it would be June art the earliest before they were up and running with production.

I'm not sure about your 2007, but my 2002 didn't require a second ACC. I did connect the pink/white wire to IGN2.

 

[littleblazer]

So... this is kinda what happened with my install. I used a similar model crime stopper in my 04 tb and didn't connect the second accessory. No problem. But I used the same model in a 2002 envoy and left off the accessory and the service 4wd light would come on when started... so on that the second accessory needed to be hooked up. It depends on the vehicle. Just saying. As for the harness, the voy I used t-taps on the ignition only, good quality ones too, data bus and others were soldered. On my truck I soldered everything, if you solder the ignition leads, make sure you have a good iron, it was a pain with a 40 watt. It's not as bad as it seems either, once you pull off the tape holding the wires there is quite a bit of slack to work with.

 

[coolasice]

I'm still curious if data will turn on the rear defroster if it's below freezing. We'll see in a few days when I leave work.

it claims it will but I have never had mine turn on... It relies on the coolant temp, if you coolant temp never gets below freezing it will never turn it on. I wonder if i need a new coolant temp sensor... i will have to check as temps fall below 0 this january

 

[TB_n00b]

I sent some emails, and they tell me that harness isn't made any more. They're planning to make their own, but he said it would be June art the earliest before they were up and running with production.

I'm not sure about your 2007, but my 2002 didn't require a second ACC. I did connect the pink/white wire to IGN2.

My research indicated that in the 2007 model year control modules are powered off ACC2, so while the car will start and run, the issues of CEL or Service 4WD were coming up. Wiring in a relay to power ACC2 is probably the easiest part of this whole install.

So... this is kinda what happened with my install. I used a similar model crime stopper in my 04 tb and didn't connect the second accessory. No problem. But I used the same model in a 2002 envoy and left off the accessory and the service 4wd light would come on when started... so on that the second accessory needed to be hooked up. It depends on the vehicle. Just saying. As for the harness, the voy I used t-taps on the ignition only, good quality ones too, data bus and others were soldered. On my truck I soldered everything, if you solder the ignition leads, make sure you have a good iron, it was a pain with a 40 watt. It's not as bad as it seems either, once you pull off the tape holding the wires there is quite a bit of slack to work with.

Yeah I am going to be soldering everything. Will also use the garage day to go back to my blower control module and remove the butt connectors (had to do it during lunch hour the day before a road trip so no time to solder)

 

[jsheahawk]

My research indicated that in the 2007 model year control modules are powered off ACC2, so while the car will start and run, the issues of CEL or Service 4WD were coming up. Wiring in a relay to power ACC2 is probably the easiest part of this whole install.

Yeah I am going to be soldering everything. Will also use the garage day to go back to my blower control module and remove the butt connectors (had to do it during lunch hour the day before a road trip so no time to solder)

I'm sure using taps would have been fine on the smaller wires (save the OBDII), but I really wanted to know they'd never ever have a problem. And, yes, a soldering gun was a must on the heavy gauge wires. I have a fifty year old Weller that I inherited from my grandfather. They don't make them like they used to...actually it's exactly the same as new models.

 

[mrrsm]

This is just some General Wiring Data that may be helpful, as I believe the information relates to the installation of an After-Market Radio in the Late Model TBs.

Caveat Emptor:

When in doubt about powering into any circuit ... Your first and Last reference should always be The GM Factory Electrical Schematic for your particular vehicle:

Audio/Mobile Video
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery ORANGE (+) RADIO HARNESS
Accessory ORANGE (DATA) RADIO HARNESS
THE RADIO HARNESS DOES NOT PROVIDE A SWITCHED POWER SOURCE. RUN A WIRE TO THE FUSEBOX FOR SWITCHED POWER. THE ACCESSORY TURN-ON IS CONTROLLED BY THE CLASS 2 SERIAL NETWORK.
Ground BLACK/WHITE (-) RADIO HARNESS
LF Speaker (+) TAN
THESE WIRES ALSO GO TO THE FRONT LEFT TWEETER
LF Speaker (-) GRAY
RF Speaker (+) LIGHT GREEN
THESE WIRES ALSO GO TO THE FRONT RIGHT TWEETER
RF Speaker (-) DARK GREEN
LR Speaker (+) BROWN
LR Speaker (-) YELLOW
RR Speaker (+) DARK BLUE
RR Speaker (-) LIGHT BLUE
Steering Cntrls OPTIONAL
THIS VEHICLE MAY BE EQUIPPED WITH ONSTAR® AND MAY LOSE DOOR CHIME AND OTHER VEHICLE MONITORING FUNCTIONS WHEN OEM RADIO IS REPLACED. USE PROPER INTEGRATION PIECE TO MAINTAIN THESE FEATURES.
Speed Cntrl OPTIONAL
Radio Security YES
Security
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery RED OR RED/WHITE (+) AT IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 PINK (+) AT IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 YELLOW (+) AT IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
All Door Trigger GRAY/BLACK (-) IN HARNESS IN DRIVERS SIDE WINDSHIELD PILLAR
TO AVOID THE DOMELIGHT DELAY FUNCTION, USE INDIVIDUAL DOOR TRIGGERS AND DIODE ISOLATE EACH WIRE,
Domelight Super GRAY/BLACK (-) IN HARNESS AT VEHICLE LIGHT SWITCH
LF Latch GRAY/BLACK (-) IN THE DRIVERS DOOR
RF Latch BLACK/WHITE (-) IN THE PASSENGERS DOOR
LR Latch LIGHT BLUE/BLACK (-) IN THE PASSENGERS DOOR
RR Latch LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) IN THE PASSENGERS DOOR
Trunk Trigger PINK/BLACK (-) AT MODULE IN REAR HATCH
VIOLET (-) WILL MONITOR THE GLASS AT THE MODULE IN THE REAR HATCH
Hood Trigger PINK/BLACK (-) ON LEFT INNER FENDER
NOT ON ALL MODELS
Alarm Disarm LT. GREEN (-) IN DRIVERS DOOR AT MODULE
Parking Lights GREY/BLACK (-) AT SWITCH
OR BCM TAN PLUG PIN E5
Low Crr Pk Lights GRAY/BLACK (-) AT VEHICLE LIGHT SWITCH HARNESS
Data Bus VIOLET (-) AT PIN 2 OF THE DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR UNDER THE DRIVERS SIDE DASH
Convenience
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Headlights-Lo WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
LF Pk Lt Bulb BROWN (+) AT FRONT LEFT PARKING LAMP
RF Pk Lt Bulb BROWN (+) AT FRONT RIGHT PARKING LAMP
LR Pk Lt Bulb BROWN (+) AT REAR LEFT TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY
RR Pk Lt Bulb BROWN/WHITE (+) AT REAR LEFT TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY
All Hazrd Lights WHITE (-) AT VEHILCE HAZARD SWITCH
LF Hazrd Bulb LIGHT BLUE (+) AT FRONT LEFT TURN LAMP
RF Hazrd Bulb DARK BLUE (+) AT FRONT RIGHT TURN LAMP
LR Hazrd Bulb LIGHT BLUE (+) AT REAR LEFT TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY
RR Hazrd Bulb DARK BLUE (+) AT REAR RIGHT TAIL LIGHT ASSEMBLY
Wipers-Lo PINK (+) AT VEHICLE WIPER CONTROL SWITCH
Wipers-Hi DARK BLUE (-) AT VEHICLE WIPER CONTROL SWITCH
Parking Brake LIGHT BLUE (-) AT VEHICLE PARKING BRAKE SWITCH
Seat Mem 1 WHITE (+) AT MODULE IN DRIVER DOOR
Seat Mem 2 VIOLET (+) AT MODULE IN DRIVER DOOR
Remote Start
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Battery RED OR RED/WHITE (+) AT IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 PINK (+) AT IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 2 WHITE (+) AT IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1 ORANGE (+) AT IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 2 BROWN (+) AT IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 YELLOW (+) AT IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti-Theft Type GM PASSLOCK II® ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM
Anti-Theft Descript PASSLOCK II
Key Sense LIGHT GREEN (-) AT THE STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Tachometer UNCOMMON COLOR (AC) ANY FUEL INJECTOR NOT PINK
Speed Sense DK. GREEN/WHITE (AC) AT RADIO 24 PIN GREY PLUG
OR PCM BLUE CONN. PIN 21
Parking Lights GREY/BLACK (-) AT SWITCH
OR BCM TAN PLUG PIN E5
Low Crr. Pk Lights GRAY/BLACK (-) AT VEHICLE LIGHT SWITCH HARNESS
Brake Lights WHITE (-) AT BRAKE SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Lights GRAY (+) IN HARNESS IN DRIVERS KICKPANEL
Horn BLACK (-) BCM TAN CONN. PIN E12
ALSO BLACK (-) AT BCM MODUEL UNDER REAR LEFT SEAT
Modules
WIRE LOCATION
Module 1 BCM-ATTACHED TO THE REAR FUSE BLOCK, BENEATH THE LEFT REAR SEAT
Module 2 ECM-NEAR THE LOWER LEFT FRONT OF THE ENGINE
Module 3 PCM-MOUNTED TO THE UPPER LEFT OF THE ENGINE
Module 4 EBCM- FRONT DRIVER SIDE FRAME RAIL
Doorlocks/Windows
WIRE COLOR POLARITY LOCATION
Databus Wire VIOLET (-) AT PIN 2 OF THE DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR UNDER THE DRIVERS SIDE DASH
Power Unlock DATA BUSS SYSTEM (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOORS
THE DOOR LOCKS IN THIS VEHICLE ARE MULTIPLEXED. WIRE AS A REVERSING POLARITY SYSTEM IN EACH FRONT DOOR OR ACQUIRE A MULTIPLEX INTERFACE ADAPTER FROM A SECURITY MANUFACTURER.
PowerLock DATA BUSS SYSTEM (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOORS
THE DOOR LOCKS IN THIS VEHICLE ARE MULTIPLEXED. WIRE AS A REVERSING POLARITY SYSTEM IN EACH FRONT DOOR OR ACQUIRE A MULTIPLEX INTERFACE ADAPTER FROM A SECURITY MANUFACTURER.
Driver Mtr Unlock TAN (REV) AT THE DRIVERS DOOR MODULE IN THE DRIVERS DOOR 24 PIN CONNECTOR PIN B2
Driver Mtr Lock GREY (REV) AT THE DRIVERS DOOR MODULE IN THE DRIVERS DOOR 24 PIN CONNECTOR PIN B3
Pas Mtr Unlock TAN (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOOR
Pas Mtr Lock GREY (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOOR
LF Window Up DARK BLUE (REV) DRIVER DOOR MODULE
LF Window Dn BROWN (REV) DRIVER DOOR MODULE
RF Window Up LIGHT BLUE (REV) PASSENGER DOOR MODULE
RF Window Dn TAN (REV) PASSENGER DOOR MODULE
LR Window Up DARK BLUE (REV) REAR LEFT WINDOW SWITCH IN REAR LEFT DOOR
LR Window Dn BROWN (REV) REAR LEFT WINDOW SWITCH IN REAR LEFT DOOR
RR Window Up DARK BLUE (REV) REAR RIGHT WINDOW SWITCH IN REAR RIGHT DOOR
RR Window Dn BROWN (REV) REAR RIGHT WINDOW SWITCH IN REAR RIGHT DOOR

 

[TB_n00b]

So I am probably going to start getting the SP-502 and Int-SL+ bench prepped ahead of an install in the next 2 weeks and I want to make sure I am understanding the connections between the two units.

Here are the links to each set of wiring guides:

http://www.crimestopper.com/cstech/library/security/security_systems/security_keyless entry/sp-402_sp-502_ins_rev_09-28-2012_green kill.pdf

https://fortin.ca/download/46281/int-sl+_revj.pdf

So my understanding is as follows:

There are two methods of connecting the units together. Wire to Wire and Data to Data. As the 502 and the SL+ both have the 4-pin data connector, I can use D2D. This simplifies my install and the number of connections in the vehicle.

So with the 4-pin connector on the SL+ being used, I would be using wiring schematic 2 from the SL+ instructions for teh 14-pin connector which requires me to connect the Pink wire on the SL+ to the Pink Wire (IGN1) on the 502's 6-pin connector; the Orange wire on the SL+ to the 502's Green (-) Door Switch??; the Purple OBD2 on the SL+ to Pin 2 Purple wire on the OBD2 harness; and the Orange/Black on the SL+ to the White/Red (Tach) on the 502.

With the 502, I would be connecting the following:

6-pin
Connections as shown on the schematic for the 502, with the Pink/White connected to IGN2; ACC2 on the vehicle being powered by a 30 A relay with ACC1 as the trigger to send power through the relay.

12-pin
White/Red Tach to SL+ as stated above
Black Ground to common ground
White and Red/Black for parking lights. Will determine if I want to use the parking switch method or figure out which brown wire in the FAP bundle is the parking lights and connection accordingly
Brown Siren + won't be used
(-)Brown/White to the Horn Black/yellow at the ignition harness (based on comments above)
(-) Black/White won't be used
(-)Green/Red won't be used
(-)Yellow/Black won't be used
(-)Orange/Black won't be used
Orange (-) Arm won't be used for start kill relay
(-)Blue/White won't be used

7-pin
White (+) to the brake wire at the trailer relay unit
Black/White not used
Pink not used
Purple not used
Green (-) Door Switch to SL+ Orange??
Blue not used
Gray to hood switch

Blue 4-pin
Does the Blue/Black need to be connected to common ground?

White 3-pin
None connected.


Thanks for the help! wish I had this in this morning. BRRRRRR.

 

[littleblazer]

So I am probably going to start getting the SP-502 and Int-SL+ bench prepped ahead of an install in the next 2 weeks and I want to make sure I am understanding the connections between the two units.

Here are the links to each set of wiring guides:

http://www.crimestopper.com/cstech/library/security/security_systems/security_keyless entry/sp-402_sp-502_ins_rev_09-28-2012_green kill.pdf

https://fortin.ca/download/46281/int-sl+_revj.pdf

So my understanding is as follows:

There are two methods of connecting the units together. Wire to Wire and Data to Data. As the 502 and the SL+ both have the 4-pin data connector, I can use D2D. This simplifies my install and the number of connections in the vehicle.

So with the 4-pin connector on the SL+ being used, I would be using wiring schematic 2 from the SL+ instructions for teh 14-pin connector which requires me to connect the Pink wire on the SL+ to the Pink Wire (IGN1) on the 502's 6-pin connector; the Orange wire on the SL+ to the 502's ______ (GREEN - 3-pin Lock(-)???); the Purple OBD2 on the SL+ to Pin 2 Purple wire on the OBD2 harness; and the Orange/Black on the SL+ to the White/Red (Tach) on the 502.

With the 502, I would be connecting the following:

6-pin
Connections as shown on the schematic for the 502, with the Pink/White connected to IGN2; ACC2 on the vehicle being powered by a 30 A relay with ACC1 as the trigger to send power through the relay.

12-pin
White/Red Tach to SL+ as stated above
Black Ground to common ground
White and Red/Black for parking lights. Will determine if I want to use the parking switch method or figure out which brown wire in the FAP bundle is the parking lights and connection accordingly
Brown Siren + won't be used
(-)Brown/White to the Horn Black/yellow at the ignition harness (based on comments above)
(-) Black/White won't be used
(-)Green/Red won't be used
(-)Yellow/Black won't be used
(-)Orange/Black won't be used
Orange (-) Arm won't be used for start kill relay
(-)Blue/White won't be used

7-pin
White (+) to the brake wire at the trailer relay unit
Black/White not used
Pink not used
Purple not used
Green not used
Blue not used
Gray to hood switch

Blue 4-pin
Does the Blue/Black need to be connected to common ground?

White 3-pin
Not sure how to connect this per my comments regarding the SL+ above.

Do I need to connect the 502 (-) Unlock Blue wire to the SL+ Unlock Driver 1 White wire and the 502 (-) Lock Green wire to the SL+ Door Trigger Orange wire?

Thanks for the help! wish I had this in this morning. BRRRRRR.

I wish I was home, I have the exact list of what is what but I think you're good. I could probably get this for you tomorrow if you'd like. I did it twice now, I should remember lol.

 

[TB_n00b]

I reread everything this morning. I now believe that the INT-SL+ Orange wire is to be hooked to the Green (-) Door Trigger on the SP-502 7-pin harness. Is this correct?

Also still want to verify that the Blue/Black on the 502's blue 4-pin plug does in fact get grounded when using D2D instead of connecting it to the INT-SL+ Blue (-) While Running wire in a W2W set-up.

Thanks!

 

[MAY03LT]

Green (-) Door Switch to SL+ Orange??

Yes. The SL will get a door ajar message* over the data line, then send the (-) door trigger to the 502.

*only the front doors and liftgate - rear doors triggers would have to be hard wired into the door switch (-) input on the 502. If the rear door triggers aren't connected, everything will still work, but the rear doors will only be protected by OEM security.

Blue 4-pin
Does the Blue/Black need to be connected to common ground?

That should go to the blue wire (ground while running) on the SL. This is what the 502 will use to tell the SL that the truck is remote starting.

edit - missed the last post. I don't use D2D so I'm not sure

 

[TB_n00b]

Yes. The SL will get a door ajar message* over the data line, then send the (-) door trigger to the 502.

*only the front doors and liftgate - rear doors triggers would have to be hard wired into the door switch (-) input on the 502. If the rear door triggers aren't connected, everything will still work, but the rear doors will only be protected by OEM security.

The other option to include the rear door triggers is the diode fix at the BCM, correct?

That should go to the blue wire (ground while running) on the SL. This is what the 502 will use to tell the SL that the truck is remote starting.

edit - missed the last post. I don't use D2D so I'm not sure

Yeah, I can't really figure it out either. The INT-SL+ instructions for D2D don't have a wire to connect to the 502 to indicate "Running" and the 502 instructions aren't clear on what happens to that wire when using D2D. going to post a question on the CS support page for clarification.

 

[TB_n00b]

edit - missed the last post. I don't use D2D so I'm not sure

Since you're well versed in this, is there an advantage from a continued use standpoint of doing W2W over D2D? Obviously D2D makes for an easier install. Any potential pitfalls of D2D?

 

[littleblazer]

So after thinking. I only had a few wires to connect I believe. The door triggers are taken care of by the D2D iirc so I only needed the obd link, hood pin safety shutoff, brake pulse, tach, running lights are taken care of and I know I'm missing like 2 things. I don't think there is a down fall to D2D, it also allows for seat heat activation and defroster if cold enough and if you gave those options.

 

[TB_n00b]

The response from CS support is that if the Fortin instructions don't indicate a connection is required for the Blue (-) While Running wire, then the SP-502 Blue/Black wire does not need to be connected. I guess that information is handle by the data-link cable.

 

[coolasice]

and the Orange/Black on the SL+ to the White/Red (Tach) on the 502.

You don't need a tach wire, it is handled via the int-sl+ data connection

 

[littleblazer]

You don't need a tach wire, it is handled via the int-sl+ data connection

The fortin module outputs a signal on a wire you attach to the remote start module no? Pretty sure that's how I wired mine.

 

[coolasice]

It also outputs it through data line, either way works

 

[TB_n00b]

The fortin module outputs a signal on a wire you attach to the remote start module no? Pretty sure that's how I wired mine.

You don't need a tach wire, it is handled via the int-sl+ data connection

It also outputs it through data line, either way works

The Fortin shows that the Tach out is a required connection, so I'll go for it straight out.

Does anyone have info on which of the 3 brown wires is the Parking Light positive in the FAP wire bundle? I thought I read somewhere that it's the thicker of the 3 brown wires but can't find it.

 

[coolasice]

disregard my previous comment.. the tach DOES need to be connected to the remote start via the wire.

Does anyone have info on which of the 3 brown wires is the Parking Light positive in the FAP wire bundle? I thought I read somewhere that it's the thicker of the 3 brown wires but can't find it.

no idea, i used the grey wire on the switch

 

[TB_n00b]

ANNDDDDD first snag. The RS end of the data-link cable supplied with the Fortin does not have a plug that fits the data connector that's identified as being for the Fortin protocol.

 

[coolasice]

ANNDDDDD first snag. The RS end of the data-link cable supplied with the Fortin does not have a plug that fits the data connector that's identified as being for the Fortin protocol.

Try flipping the cable around, it should have an option that plugs in (mine had two types of connectors on the cable)

 

[TB_n00b]

Try flipping the cable around, it should have an option that plugs in (mine had two types of connectors on the cable)

I guess my question is, I have the two different connectors. One plugs into the INT-SL+ and that same plug is also what can plug into the data port on the SP-502 that is labeled FORTIN. The other end of the data-link cable has a connector that can only plug into the data port on the SP-502 labeled ADS.

So my question is: do both ports on the SP-502 operate identically and are only there to serve a different style connector on the data-link wire or does each data port operate independent and only is used when the SP-502 is programmed to use that specific style bypass module?

 

[coolasice]

I guess my question is, I have the two different connectors. One plugs into the INT-SL+ and that same plug is also what can plug into the data port on the SP-502 that is labeled FORTIN. The other end of the data-link cable has a connector that can only plug into the data port on the SP-502 labeled ADS.

So my question is: do both ports on the SP-502 operate identically and are only there to serve a different style connector on the data-link wire or does each data port operate independent and only is used when the SP-502 is programmed to use that specific style bypass module?

i believe they are both the same, use whatever plug fits

 

[TB_n00b]

If that's the case they should maybe consider clarifying the instructions.

 

[TB_n00b]

and the next snag. on the SP-502, the wiring diagram states that the tach wire is White/Red which i read as a white wire with a red trace but on the harness I don't have a white/red, i have a red/white. by process of elimination this is the only wire left after i've gone through the rest and matched them to the diagram.

 

[coolasice]

and the next snag. on the SP-502, the wiring diagram states that the tach wire is White/Red which i read as a white wire with a red trace but on the harness I don't have a white/red, i have a red/white. by process of elimination this is the only wire left after i've gone through the rest and matched them to the diagram.

The reference both white/red and red/white for the tach in the manual